Wildlife Safari in the Caño Negro Region – Part 1

(La Fortuna, Costa Rica)

Now *this* is why I came to Costa Rica!

After a breakfast featuring (you guessed it) rice and beans, I was picked up at my hotel to travel by van to the Caño Negro region in the far north of Costa Rica.   Our destination was only a few kilometres from the Nicaraguan border and, just in case, we were advised to take our passports with us.

It didn’t take long for the wildlife theme to appear.  When we stopped for provisions just outside of La Fortuna, we saw hundreds of green iguanas.  These are harmless creatures but they are also surprisingly large.  Like every picture you’ll see in the next two posts, all of these animals are living wild in their natural environment.

A pair of green iguanas hanging out in a tree
A pair of green iguanas hanging out in a tree

As we neared Los Chiles and the Nicaraguan border, we veered off the main highway and onto the bumpiest (so far) road I have ever travelled.  It was well worth it, though, as we saw a small sampling of Costa Rica’s incredibly diverse wildlife from the van:  a stork with a 10-foot wingspan, a baby caiman (similar to a crocodile) and a type of heron that actually keeps the predator population under control by feeding on baby crocodiles and caimans.

Our boat for the floating safari on the Río Frío
Our boat for the floating safari on the Río Frío

The real show, however, started when we boarded the boat and set sail down the Río Frío.  It took less than one minute to see the albino howler monkey shown at the top of this post.  These monkeys are usually black but a genetic mutation changed this one to orange.  There are only a handful of albino monkeys in Costa Rica but there are two (having the same parents) on this very river.

Albino howler monkey gathering leaves high above the Río Frío
Albino howler monkey gathering leaves high above the Río Frío

Making it even rarer was the fact that this was a hermaphrodite albino monkey!  Our guide thought that there might be one other such howler monkey in the world.  This particular creature is probably doomed to a short life, as its vibrant colour makes it susceptible to birds of prey and its hermaphrodite status means that it is perceived as a threat (and thus attacked) by both male and female howler monkeys.  Maybe that’s why it was exiled to a sparsely vegetated tree.

A baby caiman spotted on the way to our boat
A baby caiman spotted on the way to our boat

The baby caiman that we saw on the way to the Río Frío was cute:  maybe two feet long and having a playful grin on its face.  Seeing an adult caiman is another matter altogether:  they still have the grin, but it is more like the evil grin of The Joker (from Batman).

Adult caiman on the shore of Río Frío
Adult caiman on the shore of Río Frío

The adult caiman grows to “only” 7 or 8 feet in length.  While they are definitely predatory, they are “small” enough that they apparently do not present a serious threat to humans.   None of us in the tour group were willing to put our guide’s claims to the test, however.

One of the many very large birds in the Caño Negro region
One of the many very large birds in the Caño Negro region

Even though I have only been here for a couple of days, I can already say that Costa Rica is a birdwatcher’s paradise: there are more species here than in Canada and the U.S.A. combined.  While I didn’t catch the names of very many of the birds we saw, I was nonetheless impressed by the size and variety of them along the Río Frío.

A content green iguana
A content green iguana

Not surprisingly, it’s going to take at least one more blog post to properly document my Caño Negro experience.  Stay tuned to find out if anything came close to the fantastic albino howler monkey sighting!

4 thoughts on “Wildlife Safari in the Caño Negro Region – Part 1”

  1. Hey Pierre,
    Great to read that you made it to Costa Rica! Seems you had a great trip so far. I have not made it to Caño Negro yet, but it looks similar to Tortuguero which is one of my favorite places in for wildlife.
    Let me know if you are coming back to the Central Valley and we can meet for a cup of coffee 🙂
    Pura Vida!

    1. Hi Eliane – I am really enjoying my trip to Costa Rica. I am flying back to Canada from San José but I am not sure how much time I will have there before my flight. I’ll keep you posted. Yes, there is certainly a lot of coffee here!

  2. Enkele weken terug van onze trip naar Costa Rica waar we eveneens een bezoek aan de Cano Negro hebben gebracht kan ik u vertellen dat wij ook de albino howler monkey hebben gezien en er vele prachtige foto’s van hebben kunnen maken. Bij bestudering van die foto’s blijkt overigens overduidelijk dat we foto’s van zowel een mannetje als een vrouwtje hebben. Dus het zijn er in ieder geval twee en ze leven nog steeds. Het zijn volwassen apen.

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