My first day seeing the natural highlights of Costa Rica

(La Fortuna, Costa Rica)

As expected, getting out of San José is starting to ramp up the “wow” factor in Costa Rica. I wonder if this blog will be able to keep up with all of the new and unusual things I’m seeing!

Our day started with a drive north from  San José to La Fortuna, our home for the next two nights.  Our first stop was at a humble restaurant where we each had a hot mug of agua dulce (“sweet water”), which looked almost like tea but is made from sugar cane.  The restaurant had a miniature rainforest behind it, including a hummingbird-viewing platform.

Just another waterfall in Central Costa Rica
Just another waterfall in Central Costa Rica

Next up was a stop at some relatively small but intense waterfalls.  Our leader bought us some mamones chinos (literally “Chinese Suckers”) there for a snack- it is a fruit in the lychee family that is called “rambutan” elsewhere.  The covering looks really scary but it is easily peeled to reveal a sweet, addictive fruit.

The scary looking but ultimately delicious rambutan
The scary looking but ultimately delicious rambutan

After a quick stop at a coffee plantation, some of the group disembarked for some white-water rafting.  This definitely conflicted with the treatment for my sore shoulder, so I proceeded to La Fortuna.  The non-rafters had a nice Costa Rican lunch at a local café (my choice was the casado especial – of course, it included rice and black beans).

Casado Especial - with beans and rice, naturally
Casado Especial – with beans and rice, naturally

The rest of the afternoon was spent on a “volcano hike”.  We were taken to the nearby Arenal volcano to learn about the recent eruptions and to see a regenerated rainforest up close.  After being dormant for as long as anybody can remember, Arenal erupted spectacularly in 1968 and then again in 1992.  It has had some minor activity since then but nothing to match the two big eruptions.  In those eruptions, many people died and a huge swath of land was flooded by lava.

A toucan at the top of a tree, overlooking Lake Arenal
A toucan at the top of a tree, overlooking Lake Arenal

It was incredible to see how much growth can occur in 22 years – you can get an idea from the photo at the top of this post.  The affected area now hosts a huge variety of plant, animal and bird life.  You’d never guess that it used to be a desolate lava wasteland.  After spotting a huge wild turkey in a tree near the trail, we also saw termites, toucans, hairy spiders and various bizarre plants (including a species of tree with its roots above ground).   Although we did not see any, we certainly heard the extremely loud cries of the howler monkey.

This snake was hanging out on a tree near the start of our volcano walk
This snake was hanging out on a tree near the start of our volcano walk

We then crossed parts of the lava flow and were rewarded with brilliant views of Lake Arenal as well as the volcano itself.  Arenal volcano has a perfect pyramid shape:  it is like the Matterhorn of Costa Rica.  We also saw more toucans in full flight – it really is strange to see such a large-beaked bird flying so quickly from tree to tree.  I hope to see more wildlife like this during my Costa Rican adventure.

View of Arenal Volcano, from my hotel room in La Fortuna
View of Arenal Volcano, from my hotel room in La Fortuna

The day ended with a demonstration of, and practice in, tortilla making.  After enjoying the results, we sat down to a nice traditional dinner that included…rice and black beans!  Both lunch and dinner also featured homemade chilero, but I have to admit that I preferred the chilero from our first meal in San José.  The next two were much hotter but not as flavourful (or had their flavours obscured by the searing heat!).

Next up:  a day-long tour to a remote wildlife-viewing area near the border with Nicaragua.  There are going to be some great photos, I promise you!

Arrival in Costa Rica

(San José, Costa Rica)

My trip to Costa Rica involved an early morning flight from Toronto, so I decided to stay at an airport hotel the night before. Good thing I did – for the second time this year, my transportation from Kingston to Toronto was stopped. Last time, my train couldn’t proceed beyond Belleville because of an accident on the tracks. This time, my bus broke down and limped as far as Colborne. We waited at the “Big Apple” complex in Colborne for about 2 hours before we were rescued by another bus. While my plans ultimately weren’t impacted, some other people on the bus were really scrambling to get to Toronto. Some of them hired a cab to drive all the way there…about a 2 hour journey.

Fortunately, my trip to Costa Rica was nowhere near as eventful.  I was a little concerned that I only had 67 minutes between flights in Panama City, but the flight from Toronto arrived quite early and I was even able to catch up on some e-mail between flights.

One thing is clear:  both Panama and Costa Rica are considerably warmer than Canada.  It was quite cool when I left Toronto but it is definitely t-shirt/shorts weather now.

View from my hotel room in Costa Rica
View from my hotel room in Costa Rica

I have once again joined a tour group for this trip.  As travel planning fatigue was beginning to set in when I was scheduling my October travel, I was ready to let somebody else take control for this one.  I met my group Saturday evening and it looks like I’ve been fortunate again.  There are only 7 of us in the group and, though we are from 4 different countries, we seem to get along well and have a number of shared interests/perspectives.

For dinner, we went to a typical “soda” (see photo of our group at the top of this post).  A soda is simply a local restaurant featuring Costa Rican food and is usually very reasonably priced.  I had arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) along with a fresh carrot-orange juice.   Including tax and tip, it was about US$8.00.   I also really liked the chilero sauce…it was a perfect combination of heat and flavour.  A bottle of this wondrous condiment apparently shows up on the table of almost every Costa Rican restaurant, so I will be able to do a brief and intense survey of the various brands while I’m here!

Arroz con pollo - the dark dish is a black bean paste
Arroz con pollo – the dark dish is a black bean paste

As much as I enjoyed dinner in San José, the real trip (and the real photography) begins tomorrow.  Most tourists, myself included, are here for the natural beauty of Costa Rica…so tomorrow we head out for La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano.  We’ll be there for a couple of days, although at this point I don’t think I’ll be able to take part in some of the more “adrenalized” activities.  I recently aggravated a shoulder injury and I’ll have to be careful with it.  That’s OK – even if I can’t zipline this time, there are still plenty of great things to see on foot.

Walking through history on the K&P Trail (and another “Big Reveal”)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The K&P Trail follows the railbed of the old Kingston & Pembroke Railway.  Informally known as the “Kick & Push” Railway, this rail route from Kingston to Renfrew (it never reached Pembroke) played an important role in opening up the hinterland north of Kingston in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  It then declined until the tracks were removed in the 1980s, with passenger service ending some time before that.

IMG_4627
Part of a bridge (from 1927) on the K&P Trail, just north of Kingston

Extensive local efforts have now resulted in the redevelopment of parts of the railbed for recreational purposes: walking and biking in the warmer months, skiing and snowmobiling in the winter months.  While I never had the chance to ride the actual railway, I have always been interested in this relic from a bygone age.  One reason is that we often rented a cottage on Eagle Lake in the 1970s and the drive to the cottage closely mirrored the K&P route.  However, I’m generally intrigued by small local railways:  I’ve always enjoyed riding the tiny but still-in-service rail line from Spiez to Zweisimmen in the valley of my Swiss ancestors.

View from the K&P Trail
View from the K&P Trail

With the K&P Trail now open for walking from Kingston to just north of Verona, it is possible to get a feel for what riding the actual K&P might have been like.  My wife and I are gradually walking the line:  we have already walked from Kingston to Hartington (and back).  It can get a little warm during the summer months but it’s much more enjoyable now that the weather has cooled off a little bit.  As a bonus, the trail is never very challenging because railway lines were built as level as possible.

A rare lengthy incline on the K&P Trail
A rare lengthy incline on the K&P Trail

For our most recent hike on the K&P Trail, we revisited a (relatively) steeper section just north of the urban portion of Kingston.   All of the photos in today’s post are from the portion just east of the intersection of Bur Brook Road and Cordukes Road.

When we start walking north from Hartington to Verona, we will see the transition from a primarily farming environment to the rocks and lakes of the Canadian Shield.  It must have been extraordinarily difficult to build the railway through the rocky sections using the technology of the 1800s; in fact, many workers died in the process.

View of a nearby farm from the K&P Trail
View of a nearby farm from the K&P Trail

Once we’ve finished the K&P Trail, we will probably try to see some of the Cataraqui Trail too.  It also follows a former rail line:  it is currently developed for walking between Strathcona (near Napanee) and Smiths Falls.  Because most of the Cataraqui Trail is relatively far from our home in Kingston, we might travel it by bike or (in winter) on cross-country skis.

Another view from the K&P Trail
Another view from the K&P Trail

And the “Big Reveal”?  Although I wrote this blog entry in Kingston, I will probably have already arrived in Costa Rica (via Panama) by the time you read this.  Upon arrival in San Jose, I will be joining a group tour focusing on the natural highlights of Costa Rica.  As always with group tours, it is unclear whether I will have the opportunity to blog in “real time”.  If I don’t have that opportunity, I will definitely report on the Costa Rican adventure once I’m back in Canada!

Choosing Hotels and B&Bs

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m sitting in my living room, listening to one of my recent vinyl acquisitions,  After staying in so many different hotels and B&Bs this year, I am definitely appreciating the comforts of home more.  However, I have learned quite a bit along the way about European accommodation; today’s post gathers a little bit of that acquired knowledge.

When travelling alone, I generally prefer B&Bs to hotels.  There is more of a personal touch in a B&B and that can be helpful when you don’t know anybody…especially if the local language is an unfamiliar one.  Most B&B owners will speak at least one other major European language in addition to their own.  Hostels are another good option when travelling solo, although one needs to do a bit more research on these.  Some hostels heavily favour a partying demographic, while others are much more inclusive.

Beach restaurant on Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)
Beach restaurant on Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

Often, however, it is necessary to stay in a hotel when travelling alone.  One of the fun things about solo European travel is the occasional great hotel deal you can find.  While North American hotels charge a solo traveller almost as much as two people sharing a room, a number of European hotels charge solo travellers little more than one-half the two person rate.  Some business-oriented hotels drop their rates even more on weekends.  Admittedly, the rooms can be on the small side and the bed is generally only a single bed, but otherwise you get all of the amenities of the hotel…including breakfast!  As a result, my bargain single room at the 4-star Hotel City Central in Vienna came with a huge and luxurious all-you can-eat buffet breakfast (including some very posh warm food) that I could only begin to sample.  It was a perfect way to begin a very long day of travel back to Kingston.

The village of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)
The village of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

As the year progresses, I am paying a lot more attention to formerly inconsequential details when choosing a place to stay.  I am always trying to stay within my budget, of course, and I do check to see if a place has attracted a lot of bad reviews.  However, there are some things that warrant an extra Euro or two.   Here are the three main things I’ve been looking for:

1.  Reliable WiFi.  The blog obviously requires it, but for me it is even more important to stay in touch with my wife when I am on the road.  Skype (or FaceTime, in our case) is a godsend for solo travel.

A quiet moment at low tide on Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)
A quiet moment at low tide on Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

2.  Easily accessible from major rail stations.  Taxis are a budget killer and hauling luggage gets very old towards the end of a trip.  Local public transit can also play tricks on you when you’ve just arrived in a new city.  If the train station isn’t right downtown, I’d rather stay near the station…commuting downtown is a lot easier without the backpack.

3.  Early check-in, especially on the day of arrival overseas.  Most flights from North America to Europe arrive between 5:00 and 8:00 a.m. local time.  I generally don’t get enough sleep on overnight flights and the last thing I want to do upon arrival is to carry my luggage around for 8-10 hours until it is time to check in.  Most places will at least let you drop off your luggage if you arrive early…but that is only a partial solution to the exhaustion I usually feel by late morning on the day of arrival.

Damp Dutch dogs drinking by the desolate dunes (Schiermonnikoog, Friesland, the Netherlands)
Damp Dutch dogs drinking by the desolate dunes (Schiermonnikoog, Friesland, the Netherlands)

All of today’s photos are from the Frisian island of Schiermonnikoog.  Stay tuned – on Saturday I will be arriving in a brand new country that has very little in common with the Netherlands!

Taking Care of Business in Montréal

(Montréal, Québec, Canada)

One of the attractions of living in Kingston is that it is relatively close to three major Canadian cities:  Toronto, Ottawa and Montréal.  Any of these can be reached by car or train in less than 3 hours…a short commute by Canadian standards.  My wife and I often spend a weekend in one of them:  sometimes the “anchor” is a music or sports event, but sometimes we just feel like visiting a bigger city and don’t have any scheduled events lined up.

Every one of my trips so far this year has been through Toronto, so I jumped at the opportunity to spend some time in Montréal.  This was a weekday trip, as I needed to renew my Swiss passport and the consulate’s hours are somewhat limited.  In fact, it was an overnight trip because I had an early morning appointment at the consulate.  I’m not complaining:  Montréal is a great place to visit! 

One of the big attractions in Montréal is the food.  Kingston has quite a good variety of dining options for a city of its size, but it cannot compare to what’s available in Montréal.  Upon arrival on Tuesday, I had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant called Lola Rosa in the McGill University district.  I’m not strictly vegetarian but I like to visit good vegetarian restaurants.  This one was above average – the presentation of the food was especially good.  I had a vegetarian chili; apparently, the beans were soaked in red wine before cooking.

A bad photo- the top half of my hotel (with foliage) on rue Stanley in Montreal
A bad photo:  an out-of-focus and slanted shot of the top part of my hotel (with bonus foliage and sun glare) on rue Stanley in Montreal

Montréal also has an excellent vinyl record store.  It’s called Aux 33 Tours and I visit it whenever I can.  As I’ve mentioned before in this blog, visiting independent record stores helps me to see urban neighbourhoods that are off the usual tourist trail.  After a couple of hours (!) in the record store and a long walk to and from the Plateau Mont-Royal district, I was ready for a substantial dinner.

Dinner certainly was substantial.  I met a friend for dinner and we went to Le Nil Bleu for Ethiopian cuisine.  Whenever I can introduce friends to Ethiopian food, I do.  What can be more fun than eating spicy and colourful food with your hands?  We ordered the “tasting menu” in order to sample a wide variety of dishes. This particular restaurant was located on rue St.-Denis and was a cut above the usual in terms of comfort and variety.  While it didn’t quite match the awesomeness and good value of Winnipeg’s Massawa restaurant (still my favourite Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurant), it was a very satisfying and tasty meal.

The main course of our "Tasting Menu" at Le Nil Bleu
The main course of our “Tasting Menu” at Le Nil Bleu

After “taking care of business” at the Swiss consulate (see picture at top of this post), I did some more shopping and decided to let fate decide where I would eat.  A couple of years ago, my wife and I enjoyed a great brunch at La Petite Ardoise restaurant in the Mile End district.  Alas, it was closed for renovations this time.  The next place to catch my eye was a humble Venezuelan place called Bocadillo at the corner of boulevard St.-Laurent and avenue du Mont-Royal.  I had Venezuelan-style pulled pork (made with passion fruit) and it was very good.

Pulled Pork - Venezuelan style!
Pulled Pork – Venezuelan style!

While this trip was mostly about music and food, there really is a lot to see in Montréal.  Unfortunately, you aren’t going to see much of it in this posting because I forgot my camera.  I packed “without a list” this time because it was such a short trip…and somehow I overlooked the camera.  I had an iPod with me, but it is designed for “selfies” rather than traditional photography.  I did my best with it but the picture quality isn’t quite up to this blog’s usual standards.  I think I’ll need to visit Montréal again soon in order to properly chronicle the city!