Travel Flashback: Bergen, Norway (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m a big believer in serendipitous travel.  When we were researching our 2010 trip to Norway, we thought it would be nice to see the Atlantic coast of Norway.  At the same time, it seemed like a waste of time to travel out to the coast from Oslo…and then back again to Oslo for the flight home.  It turned out that Icelandair served a number of Norwegian cities from Reykjavik…so we were able to book a flight into Bergen and then out of Oslo at no extra cost.  We didn’t know much about Bergen but figured that there must be something worth seeing.

As it turns out, there was plenty to see.  We quickly learned that Bergen was one of the major Hanseatic League cities:  a Germanic trading organization that linked the Baltic States, Scandinavia, Germany and Poland.  Of course, there was no united “Germany” yet, but German was definitely the language of commerce.

Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen
Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen

The historic Bryggen district, dominating Bergen’s waterfront, contains a large number of brightly coloured wooden buildings from the Hanseatic days.  We spent the better part of a day exploring the various museums embedded into the Bryggen buildings.  Everybody takes pictures of the exteriors but the dark interiors are equally fascinating.  And there is a lot of dried fish, too.

On our first evening in town, we took a gondola lift up to a park located high above Bergen’s harbour.   In just a few minutes we were hiking around a verdant wilderness, wondering whether there might be bears, and completely forgetting that we were in Norway’s second largest city.

One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront
One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront

Bergen is also a modern city and we spent some time shopping and visiting markets.  This was the summer right after the Vancouver Winter Olympics:  Norway’s men’s curling team had made a real splash at the Olympics with their outrageously colourful curling pants.  By the summer, however, the novelty had begun to wear off.   and we saw a lot of plaid curling pants for sale.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any that fit me.

A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen
A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen

While I was unsuccessful in the curling pants department, I did find a Helly Hansen rugby shirt (Helly Hansen being a famous Norwegian brand of sports & outdoor clothing) that was almost as striking.  To this day, it attracts cries of “Where’s Waldo?” whenever I wear it.  The shirt has turned out to be a nice souvenir that I’ll forever associate with Bergen.

As Bergen was the first city we’ve ever visited in Norway, we will also forever associate it with huge and unique breakfasts.  As the price of food in Norway was quite outrageous, we learned to take extreme advantage of the hotel’s smorgasbordesque breakfast and not eat again until dinner.

Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen
Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen

I suppose the amount of fish at breakfast was to be expected; this is, after all, a country with a huge fishing heritage.  Yet it was the cheese, of all things, that was most surprising.   For the first time, we ate brunost…or “brown cheese”.   Here’s a link to a Guardian article about it: from its orange-brown colour to its fudge-like texture to its surprising sweet and salty flavour, it is something else that I will never forget.  Just like some of my favourite Dutch treats, brunost does not seem to have caught on much outside its home country.

Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen
Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen

Bergen is a beautifully situated city and a great springboard for exploring the fjords.  If we make it to Norway again, we will focus on the Atlantic Coast…and it would be great to start with a return visit to this very livable place.

The Thrill of the Chase

(KIngston, Ontario, Canada)

As I mentioned in a recent post, the dates have been chosen and I am now deep into the “venue selection process” for this winter’s ski trip. It’s not on the same scale as planning an entire year’s worth of travel, but this is the most complicated travel problem I’ve faced for quite some time.  Today’s lengthy post, illustrated with some pictures from March of 2010, is all about figuring out when and where to ski.

Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)
Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)

There are usually about 6 of us, coming from 4 or 5 different countries (depending on the year) and two continents. Thanks to e-mail, this is not an insurmountable barrier.  However, while it is great to be in regular contact with my “ski posse”, it can sometimes still feel like herding cats when it is time to make a decision.  Not only are we in different time zones, but we all in different professions (with their own “seasons”) and our countries all have different “high seasons” for holidays.  In Canada, for example, there can be a lot of competition in the workplace for “March Break” vacations.

Geography, economics, and our own preferences dictate that the ski venue will be in Europe. We also like to discover new resorts, so we rarely say “let’s just go back to the same place as last year”. This is where things get really complicated.  Europe is a small continent but there is a huge amount of skiing.

Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)
Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)

The first consideration is the time of year.  February is traditionally the month for ski holidays  in Europe, so prices are often double what they might be in January or March.  As January is also the coldest month and high-altitude skiing means even colder temperatures, this means that we will generally ski in March.

Skiing in March rules out a lot of the lower-altitude resorts, as we need to be sure that the resort will have sufficient snow.  This means that we are more or less confined to the Alps.   This is not a terrible fate but it does rule out some interesting off-the-beaten-path possibilities.

The Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)
Skiing by the Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)

The next consideration is national price levels.  While we always stay in inexpensive accommodation, a strong currency and high standards of living can sometimes push even the cheapest accommodation out of reach.  Right now, pretty much everything in Switzerland is out of the question because of the very strong Swiss Franc.  It’s not just the hotel cost: we also have to consider the cost of lift passes, ski rental, food, and transportation to/from the resort.

As we enjoy exploring different pistes and most European bookings need to be for a week, the resort needs to be of a certain size to hold our interest.    We don’t want to ski the same slopes six days in a row.  This rules out all but the largest stand-alone resorts.  Generally, we are looking for a ski “region”, where a single pass gets you access to a variety of different resorts (ideally linked by pistes rather than by bus or train).  We try to avoid purpose-built resorts:  it’s much more interesting to ski in and around real Alpine villages.

3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia
3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia

Once we think we’ve found a region or resort,  we also need to consider our access to the ski lifts.  An otherwise perfect village 6 miles from the nearest lift does not work.  Ideally, we want something in the “middle” of the region that allows us to access all of the resorts covered by the weekly ski pass.

We also need to find accommodation for 6 unrelated people.  Ideally, this would be in 6 single rooms, although this is not always possible.  Most hotels don’t have many single rooms, as the economics favour putting more than one person in a room.   Also, many seemingly ideal hotels are booked a year or more in advance, either by tour groups or by returning skiers who have enjoyed the resort in the past.

Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance
Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance

We also need to eat!  One of the great attractions of European skiing is the (usually) excellent on-mountain and in-resort dining.  However, this is not always the case.  Evening dinners can be problematic:  after 8 hours of skiing, we don’t want to wander all over town trying to find a reasonably-priced place with good (local) food that has tables available and appeals to all 6 of us.  Lately, we’ve found that a well-chosen hotel offering half-board (with each day’s breakfast and dinner included) is a good solution to this problem.  But good-value accommodation and good food don’t always go hand-in-hand.

With all of these considerations, the initial stages of the search can be overwhelming.  Nobody wants to let the others down with a lousy venue or a proposal that not everyone can afford.  This year, I did have a small crisis at one point and wondered whether we should just go back to a “safe” resort that we’ve visited before.

More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia
More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia

However, after much research and some frustrating late nights at the keyboard, the chase appears to be coming to a successful conclusion.   It looks like we’ve found our 2016 ski region and we are down to a couple of hotels in 2 different resorts within that region.

This year’s destination is the cross-border Via Lattea (“Milky Way”) ski region in northwestern Italy and southeastern France.  This region hosted the skiing events for the 2006 Winter Olympics in Torino (Turin).  Whichever hotel we choose, we will indeed have quality accommodation in a large ski region (that most of us have never visited before) with great food, interesting local culture and sights, good access to lifts, and very reasonable prices.   While it was a challenge at the time, it is great to know that the long hours of preparation will not be in vain!

Travel Flashback: Estonian Road Trip (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

We spent almost our entire Estonian holiday in the capital city of Tallinn.  However, we did embark on one out-of-town adventure:  a road trip to Haapsalu!

The decision to visit Haapsalu was more or less a random one.  There were several potential destinations but Haapsalu was close and accessible by a full roster of buses.  We figured that, if it didn’t live up to expectations, we could come home on an earlier bus.  As it turned out, we stayed longer than expected and caught the last bus of the day back to Tallinn.

Haapsalu Castle
The 13th Century Castle in Haapsalu, Estonia

While we didn’t know too much about Haapsalu, the most difficult part of the trip was buying the bus ticket.   Few tourists in Estonia travel by local bus from Tallinn, so I had to resort to some creative communication techniques at the bus station.  It was probably very amusing for the ticket agent.

Fun in the Haapsalu castle
Fun in the Haapsalu Castle

Haapsalu is a very quaint town on the Baltic Sea.  It used to be a favored summer retreat of the Russian tsars:  the covered portion of the Haapsalu railway station platform is 216 metres long  and is the longest in the former Russian empire (see photo at the top of the post).   The tsars, and many others, would come to Haapsalu to partake of its legendary mud cures.  The famous Russian composer Peter Tschaikovsky also spent a lot of time here; there is a bench that plays parts of his symphonies when you sit down on it.

On the waterfront in Haapsalu, Estonia
A waterfront reminder of Haapsalu’s glorious past

After a short walk from the train station (which, despite its oversized platform, was closed to trains and was now just a railway museum and a bus station), we were in the middle of Haapsalu’s historic downtown.  We had a delicious meal at a local cafe:  the picture is slightly out of focus, but I think you can probably tell that the dessert was decadent.  Later in the day, I had a bottle of kvass (a fermented beverage made from black rye bread)…it didn’t quite match up to the cake, but it was still something that I had to try while in Estonia.  Much tastier Estonian beverages were pear cider and Vana Tallinn; I’ll have more on those in a future blog.

Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia
Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia

Our first stop after lunch was the 13th-Century Haapsalu Castle.   It is right in the middle of downtown and we enjoyed climbing all over the huge complex.

Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront
Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront

The Haapsalu waterfront still housed a number of ornate buildings dating back to the Tsarist era.  While some had recently been restored to their former glory, there were still signs of neglect from the Soviet period.   There were also some anti-touristic buildings:  we saw a largely abandoned factory that had clearly been built when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.  The most surprising part was how such an ugly, industrial building, with no need for water access, could be placed in such a prime waterfront location.   We also saw a suspicious-looking building that looked like it was a combination of apartments and a surveillance tower:  what was the real story?

Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia
Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia

It wasn’t the only mystery.  There was also an extremely odd sculpture in the harbour:  for reasons we don’t fully understand, a polar bear (which is by no means native to this region) rises majestically out of the water…near the curiously-named Africa Beach.  Were these simply examples of the quirky Estonian wit?  We left Haapsalu with more questions than answers.

Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu's Africa Beach
Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu’s Africa Beach

The combination of a beautiful downtown, a historic castle, puzzling relics and the shadow of the Soviet era all combined to make Haapsalu a fascinating day trip.   It would be interesting to visit it again in a few years, to see whether it has taken further steps towards regaining its glamorous past.