(Malmö, Sweden)

Malmö and Copenhagen are in two different countries but, thanks to the Øresund bridge, are now considered to be part of the same metropolitan area. Both Sweden and Denmark are part of the European Union; they are also both part of the Schengen Area. Many people live in Malmö and work in Copenhagen. You’d think that it would not be a hassle to travel from Copenhagen to Malmö. But you would be wrong!

During the height of the recent refugee exodus in Europe, Sweden was considered to be a desirable destination. It has an extensive social security system and indicated that it was willing to accept refugees. Malmö was the chosen point of entry, given its proximity to central Europe. However, Sweden is not a huge country in terms of population and eventually they decided to restrict the flow. To do this, they decided to hire security personnel and place them on the platform for Malmö-bound trains leaving from Copenhagen. As a result, I had to show my passport and be closely scrutinized before being allowed in the boarding area for the next train to Malmö from Copenhagen.

Once I was in Malmö, however, it was clear sailing.  My hotel was right across from the train station; in turn, the hotel was only a block or two from the centre of old Malmö.  It appeared to be very clean, prosperous…and just a little bit cheaper than Copenhagen.

My last full day in Europe was, once again, rather cool and gray.  Eating out for an entire week was starting to lose its lustre.  However, stumbling upon a cosy restaurant called “La Soupe” was just what the doctor ordered.  It specialized in soup, of course, and I had an excellent tomato/lentil/chorizo soup that blasted away any travel weariness.  It came with some sweet black bread and was supplemented by a warming mug of tea and a chocolate ganache for dessert.

I had some success at a record shop called Folk å Rock (which I think means “People of Rock”) and decided to wander around the area to the south and east of the historic core.  I had read a vague description of it as a neighbourhood of cheaper restaurants; in reality, it was where many refugees appear to have settled.  It was quite different from old Malmö and it reminded me of entering one of the ethnic neighbourhoods in Toronto.

I had already visited lots of museums and castles in Copenhagen, so I spent the rest of the day doing some shopping and sending a few postcards.  For my last meal, I found a restaurant close to my hotel where I thought I could use up all of my  remaining Swedish coins…neither Sweden nor Denmark use the Euro.  The restaurant was a Thai place and I enjoyed a very tasty Tom Kha Gai soup there.  Alas, I won’t give its name (or any free advertising) because I think they tried to scam me with an extra charge that didn’t appear on the menu!  They never did give me a receipt.

After that, I think I felt more ready to return home.  The next morning, I caught a train to Copenhagen’s airport (only 20 minutes from downtown Malmö…and no security check before boarding the train!) and used up my remaining Danish currency there before my connecting flight to Amsterdam.