Highway 31 (and Murray Street) Revisited

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

When I travel, I crave new adventures. However, sometimes it is fun to revisit previous experiences and even tie them together. That’s exactly what I did when I recently drove the length of Highway 31 from Morrisburg to Ottawa.

The St. Lawrence River shoreline in Morrisburg, Ontario

Morrisburg is a small Ontario town that remains very special to me. In December 2009, I was a torchbearer for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Torch Relay…and my assigned segment was in Morrisburg. It was such a unique and vivid experience: I’ll never forget the feeling of floating with the flame. You can read all about it by clicking here. However, when I retraced the route I ran on Ottawa Street 15 years ago, that supercharged feeling was gone. No snow, no festivities, no anticipation…and no cheering crowd! It is amazing how context can transform the routine into something truly extraordinary. I even had to go back to my old blog post about it and confirm that I was looking at the right street. But sure enough…it was indeed Ottawa Street where I did most of my Olympic run.

The main intersection in downtown Winchester, Ontario.

Heading north, I stopped in the similarly-sized town of Winchester. Although it is not that far from Kingston, I somehow had never made it to Winchester before. It has a strong agricultural history, and all the utility posts have a “cow” pattern on the bottom. I took a couple of pictures before returning to Highway 31. Before long, all the signs were referring to Bank Street, a major Ottawa thoroughfare, instead of Highway 31.

The Town Hall in Winchester, Ontario.

Bank Street was a mixed bag. The neighbourhood known as “The Glebe” was doing well…perhaps a little too well, as the new development at the south end seemed a little out of scale. But much sadder was the decay on Bank Street near Parliament Hill. So many vacant storefronts, and real human suffering. It was nothing like the vibrant street I remembered from 30-40 years ago.

Kerala (Red) Rice and Kodanadu Chicken at Kochin Kitchen (Ottawa, Ontario)

But on the plus side, I also had a chance to revisit Murray Street…which I visited just 3 months ago. In fact, I ate out twice on Murray Street: once at each of the restaurants that I wrote about this spring. The first evening, I went back to Kochin Kitchen for some Keralan food. I had the Kodanadu Chicken again, but this time I paired it with Kerala rice…which has a red tinge!

Dimly lit but brilliantly flavoured Gaeng Panang Curry at Khao Thai (Ottawa, Ontario)

The second night, I went to Khao Thai…which was full when I tried to go there in June. It was still fairly busy, but I was able to get a table. I had a spicy Gaeng Panang curry with some jasmine rice. It was excellent. It was a perfect blend of (most of) my favourite Thai elements: red curry, peanuts, coconut milk, and green and red peppers. And some peas! Yes, it was a little more expensive than the Thai restaurants in Kingston, but I’d have to say it was worth it.

Entering Gatineau, Quebec, after crossing the bridge from Ottawa

And finally, as has become my Ottawa tradition, I included a “walk through Quebec”. Using two of the bridges that connect Ottawa and Gatineau, I saw many of downtown Ottawa’s highlights (including the Chateau Laurier – see photo at the very top of this post) in a whirlwind tour. Even though I have advised against ultra-brief visits to places just to say I’ve been there, I must admit that I still do like the idea of crossing borders. That’s good: in about a month, I’ll be visiting another country. More details to come!

Travel Flashback: My most northern destinations

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The summer is a great time to head north. With the long hours of daylight, there is so much more to see! On that note, here are some of my most northern destinations…

Overlooking Iqaluit’s harbour

In Canada, the farthest north I’ve been is to Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut (Canada’s largest territory). After getting over the sticker shock, I developed a much deeper appreciation for the differences between the various parts of Canada. As I wrote in this post about my 2013 trip to Iqaluit, you should take advantage of any opportunity you might have to visit Nunavut. You will never forget it!

“Welcome to Iqaluit”, in the 4 languages of Nunavut

2013 was a great year to go north. Later that summer, I found myself in Yellowknife, the capital of the Northwest Territories. Yellowknife is still connected by road (albeit a very long road) to the rest of Canada, which meant that it had some superficial similarities to other Canadian cities. But, as with Nunavut, I felt that a true Northern experience would require a trip to one of the smaller outlying communities. That remains a travel goal of mine.

Floating houses in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories.

And yes, I’ve been to the Yukon Territory (and Alaska) too! However, so far, I haven’t converted that experience to a post on this blog. It’s a rainy day project of mine to track down some pictures and make it happen. The same goes for my 1999 trip to Harrington Harbour, Quebec, a remote village on the north shore of St. Lawrence River (near Labrador).

Downtown Grímsey, right beside the Arctic Circle

Despite living in Canada, the farthest north I’ve ever been was in…Iceland! In 2008, we spent a remarkable two weeks there. We even made it to Grimsey, an island north of the Arctic Circle. Sure, the journey by boat made us sick, but once again it was an experience that we’ll never forget.

The boat we took back to Balestrand, Norway

On mainland Europe, I’ve been to each of the Scandinavian countries. But within those countries, my most northerly destination was Fjærland, Norway (see photo at the very top of this post). You can find the details in this post about our 2010 adventure in the Norwegian fjords. Interestingly, I wasn’t particularly struck by the “northernness” of this area. It was beautiful, to be sure, but in an Alpine way! Sometimes, it felt like we were in Switzerland rather than Scandinavia.

Broch of Gurness, Orkney

Another northern destination that left an impact on me was Orkney, a cluster of islands off the northern coast of Scotland. Like many other northern destinations, there weren’t a whole lot of trees in Orkney. But, as you can see from these two posts (one about ancient Orkney, the other about “relatively more recent” aspects of Orkney), you don’t need a lot of trees to be a captivating place. We haven’t returned yet, but one day we will.

Kirkwall Bowling Green, Orkney – I hope to play here for real someday!

As I reviewed my blog posts about these northern destinations, two common themes emerged: (1) the north is unforgettable, and (2) we’ll return someday and dig even deeper!

Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains

(Tannersville, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.)

My lawn bowling competition was being held at the Skytop Lodge in the Pocono Mountains – you can see the lodge in the photo at the very top of this post. It reminds me of the massive and ancient hotels in Canadian resort areas: the Banff Springs Hotel and the Manoir Richelieu in particular. They are like huge sports camps…albeit at a price. And that price hit especially hard with the strong American dollar.

“Taste of Susan’s Grill House” in Tannersville, Pennsylvania.

So, even though it would have been more convenient to stay at the resort itself, we decided to stay at a nondescript hotel in Tannersville for economic reasons. It’s about 30 minutes away (on narrow and winding mountain roads) and, strangely, home to a massive “outlet” mall with 100+ stores. The scope of that mall is a little odd because Tannersville itself is little more than the intersection of two local highways near an Interstate highway. But it was very busy, even just before closing time.

My tarragon soda at “Taste of Susan’s Grill House”

Anyway, the Pocono Mountains are dotted with unique restaurants that you don’t typically find in such small communities. On our first night, we went to “Taste of Susan’s Grill House”. It specialized in food from the former Soviet republics. For my beverage, I had a shockingly luminescent green soft drink based on…tarragon!

Uzbek Pilaf (#1) at “Taste of Susan’s Grill House:

For my main course, there was no doubt: I had to try the Uzbek Pilaf. How often does one get the chance to eat Uzbek food, particularly in rural America? I really liked the meal. In fact, we went back to Susan’s the next evening and I had the Uzbek Pilaf again. For a drink, though, I switched it up on the second night and had pear-flavoured “Georgian Lemonade” instead. And we also learned that the proprietor was from Armenia.

Main entrance to the Skytop Lodge (Skytop, Pennsylvania)

I’d like to tell you more about the Poconos but, to be fair, I spent most of my time practicing and playing at the Skytop Lodge. The grounds are beautiful and it is situated on a high plateau with nice views of the surrounding hills. The lawn bowling green was impressively manicured – maybe just a tad too lush (it wasn’t quite as fast as my favourite Ontario greens), but still a pleasure to play on. With the tranquil surroundings, it felt like being transported back in time about a hundred years.

The lawn bowling green, behind Skytop Lodge (photo credit: R. Hastu)

As I really enjoyed the event, I will likely return in the future. And I *might* consider a splurge and stay at the Lodge itself (if only for a night or two). There are a lot of other sports activities available…and if you check the link, you will see that some of them (“Arrow Tag” and “Intro to Shotgun” come to mind) are likely not available at Canadian resorts such as Chateau Montebello.

Part of the main lobby at Skytop Lodge (Skytop, Pennsylvania)

We self-catered our lunches during the tournament, so we stocked up in a local supermarket. I know that grocery prices have been a real pain point for Canadians over the past couple of years. But prices seemed just as high in the U.S., and that was before accounting for the 30+% exchange rate. Canadians used to do a lot of cross-border shopping in the U.S., but (except perhaps for gas) I don’t think it is much of a deal anymore.

Liquid Death, now at your local supermarket

The grocery price pain was offset a little by the entertainment value on the shelves. Canadian grocery stores have more variety than ever, but this was at a different level altogether. Maybe I shop at the wrong stores, but I don’t recall seeing products such as “Liquid Death” flavoured water in Canada. While flavours such as “Cherry Obituary” and “Berry it Alive” were tempting, I decided to give them a pass.

The Friendly’s restaurant in Cortland, New York.

As I had to play in a playoff match, the last day of the tournament ended a little later than anticipated . We had to drive all the way home that evening, which meant that we (1) couldn’t spent a lot of time looking for restaurants, (2) weren’t looking for an extended dining experience, and (3) would eat when it made the most sense from a driving perspective. And that is how we ended up at the “Friendly’s” restaurant in Cortland, New York! This American chain specializes in food like burgers…and dessert. My spicy grilled cheese was fine.