All posts by pierrev

Les Diablerets, Switzerland

(Les Diablerets, Switzerland)

After a very long journey, I have finally arrived in this winter’s first ski destination: Les Diablerets, Switzerland. It is by no means the largest Swiss resort, but it is relatively close to Morzine (France) and Les Portes du Soleil, where I will be skiing all of next week. As I only have time for a couple of days of Swiss skiing, it wasn’t necessary to ski in a huge resort.

Canadian treats in Les Diablerets!

Les Diablerets is located on the eastern fringe of French-speaking Switzerland, just a little bit west of my German-speaking “Heimatort” of Lenk. I went skiing at the nearby glacier in August (!) of 1987, so I wanted to get a better idea of the area (most of it) that is not actually open in the summer. In fact, with climate change and increased awareness of environmental impacts, I am not even sure that skiing is still offered here in the summer.

Figuring out where to go next: the main junction at Vers l’Eglise, Switzerland

It has been a mild winter here: on the rail trip from Geneva to Aigle, there was no snow at all. From the rustic mountain train that travels between Aigle and Les Diablerets, snow only began to appear as I arrived in Les Diablerets. Not every piste is open right now.

Main street in Vers l’Eglise, Switzerland

As I write this, on the day before we first hit the slopes, the snow is finally starting to arrive. We received about 25 cm of snow today, with more expected in the days to come. In fact, I suspect we won’t see too much of the sun for the first part of this international ski odyssey. But that’s OK – it’s hard to enjoy the sunny slopes if there is no snow on the slopes!

L’eglise, in Vers l’Eglise, Switzerland

The village reminds me of Lenk too, or perhaps Andermatt, before Andermatt underwent a massive expansion. There isn’t much of a corporate presence, and somehow (in a good way) it feels like the town is still in the past century. Somehow, it is a little strange to use my laptop.

The very lonely and very small train station at Sur Le Buis, Switzerland

I’ve been scanning menus and have come to the conclusion that you had better be a cheese lover here. Cheese is everywhere…and bread, potatoes and ham are ubiquitous too. Again, not too different from my observations in Lenk a couple of years ago. And from what I understand, I may see more of the same in Morzine next week. It may be in a different country, but the history here goes back much further than the relatively “new” borders between France and Switzerland.

Here comes the train! The train from Aigle to Les Diablerets, just past Sur Le Buis

I am staying in the Auberge de la Poste (see photo at the top of this post) – one of those rustic old chalets that passers-by like to photograph. It’s right in the middle of town, and I think it will suit our purposes perfectly.

This is what my hike was like – between Vers l’Eglise and Les Diablerets, Switzerland

Today’s photographs were all taken while walking from Les Diablerets to the nearby hamlet of Sur Le Buis. While there is no sun to speak of, and a few of the photos were taken in blizzard-like conditions, I think you can get an idea of this area is all about. By the time you read this, I will hopefully be on the slopes!

More on Montreal…and preparing for a bigger trip

(Montreal, Quebec, and Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a bit of a hiatus, I’m finally returning to the Montreal trip that I first blogged about a few weeks ago

Another view from Mont-Royal…this time, looking east

On Sunday, we visited the Museum of Fine Art. There was a special travelling exhibition about Egypt (based on mummies) for which our hotel gave us free passes. I had some initial reservations about the propriety of exhibiting the deceased, but I thought it was done in a respectful manner. They don’t break open the “cases” anymore!

Montreal’s Museum of Fine Art

Despite being a city of three million people, downtown Montreal still retains a human scale. As you can see from the following photo of Crescent Street, not all of the downtown core has been replaced by skyscrapers. And imagine our surprise when we saw Leonard Cohen looming over us! 

Crescent Street in downtown Montreal

Since then, I have had some challenges with my impending ski trip. My travel plans were affected by the rail blockade between Kingston and Toronto, and then a situation arose with the seating on my overnight transatlantic flight. When these things happen, I try to remember that travelling is a privilege. I eventually resolved each of these situations, and I fully expect to be posting about my trip soon.

Montreal is very clearly the home of Leonard Cohen

Another challenge arose when I double-checked the baggage size limitations on the train. For reasons unknown (especially since they run a shuttle between Dorval station and Dorval airport, for example), the standard baggage allowance on our passenger rail service is actually slightly smaller than the standard airline baggage allowance. Why would they do that, if they want people to take the train as part of a longer journey?

A savory “Mexican” crepe, with a blackberry smoothie

In any case, it forced me to reduce my baggage (and plan for a laundry day while travelling). Again, things usually work out in the end, but it involved some very complicated logistics to ensure I could travel with the absolute minimum amount of clothes. I already know exactly which items I will be washing on Saturday afternoon. However, I will be in trouble if the laundromat is closed!  

The Chateau Versailles (our Montreal hotel) at night

Anyway, all of this should be moot when I’m finally back in the mountains again. Even the most miserable start to a vacation, such as when the airline lost some of my luggage and my first night’s hotel was suddenly full, is quickly forgotten.  I’m looking forward to my posting my next blog entry from the Alps!

Travel Flashback – Stuben, Austria (2013)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Context is everything in travel. In 2013, I had such a great week of skiing in Val Gardena that the following 4 days of skiing in Stuben, Austria, could never measure up. And by the end of a stretch where I was skiing for 10 out of 11 days, I think that some fatigue set in and minor annoyances were easily exaggerated.

A daytime view of the photo at the top of this post

I was recently browsing through my photo archives and found some pictures from my 5-day stay in Stuben. A lot of impressions came flooding back.  I realized that Stuben really was a beautiful village.   I also remembered that the weather really didn’t cooperate…we didn’t see too much sun when we were on the slopes, even though it was technically already springtime.  In fact, I think we only had one partial day of sunny skies.

Another night view of downtown Stuben

Strangely enough, the strongest lingering impression was about cigarettes. The owner of our B&B smoked incessantly. The nearest pub and restaurant also seemed to follow a different set of rules from the rest of the Alps.  Restaurants and hotels have been smoke-free in Canada for so long that these smoky places literally left a really bad taste.

Finally, a sunny day! This is above Zurs, Austria

Many years have passed, and I know that the B&B is now under new management.  I suspect the pub is no longer a smoking “outlier” either. Maybe it’s time for a fresh assessment of skiing in Stuben?

We had just skied down this stash of fresh powder, above Zurs

Stuben has a lot going for it. It’s a tiny, remote village at “the end of the road”, but is still linked to the legendary St. Anton ski area. The pistes are long and often challenging. And the lift pass also gets you on the slopes at Lech, Zurs, St. Christoph, and Sonnenkopf. Since our visit, the slopes at nearby Warth and Schroecken have been linked as well.

More “almost” off-piste skiing above Zurs

Even though there was a blizzard and there were only about 12 people skiing in the entire Sonnenkopf area, we still had a lot of fun on our day there. Sure, we rarely saw where we were going but, with slightly better visibility, it could have moved from “fun” to “epic”.

The sun was also out on the day we left Stuben. This is the “main street” of the tiny village.

I’ve had some great travel experiences in Austria, such as my whirlwind 2014 visit to Vienna. It may be time to move on from the bad weather (and cigarettes) of 2013 and give Austrian skiing another shot!   

A Warm Winter Weekend in Montreal

(Montreal, Quebec, Canada)

It’s not often that you hear about a warm winter weekend in Montreal. But that’s exactly what we had on our recent visit!

The first part of our visit focused mainly on food and shopping. We once again purchased a weekend transit pass, allowing us to travel around the city and hop on or off whenever we felt inspired. We started by returning to Verdun, for a clothing shop we discovered on our previous trip to Montreal. Before shopping, however, we had to make sure we were properly nourished.

I took this picture just because I think “Lavo-Rama” is a great name for a laundromat (Notre-Dame-de-Grâce)

We chose a Peruvian place just down the street from the clothing shop. My hopes were high, as I saw both lomo saltado and chicha morada on the menu.  I have a nostalgic attachment to these items, as I prepared lomo saltado during a cooking course I took in Cusco, Peru. And I had many delicious glasses of chicha morada throughout my Peruvian trip in 2014.

Simply “Jimi”. Perfect name for a music shop. (Notre-Dame-de-Grâce)

While it was nice to revisit Peru on a winter’s day in Canada, it wasn’t quite the same as what I remembered from 6 years before. I guess this isn’t surprising – almost everything tastes better in the place it comes from.  Eating in Peru is great!

The next day, we ventured to the Notre-Dame-de-Grâce neighbourhood. We had no particular destination in mind:  we had just heard that there were a lot of bookstores and independent businesses that might be interesting to look at. This was true, but what really struck us was the number of bakeries and pastry shops…and also the number of pet-oriented businesses! The pets of Notre-Dame-de-Grâce certainly ought to be well-amused and well-groomed.

Woof & Groom dog-grooming emporium in Notre-Dame-de-Grâce

From there,  it was off to the neighbourhood of Côte-des-Neiges. This time, the attraction was an allegedly high number of ethnic restaurants. We decided to simply roam and stop in for lunch wherever the “vibe” was right. Nothing truly called to us until we saw a basement restaurant called La Republika. There was no menu posted outside: we just knew that the food was from the Philippines. We took the plunge, as there seemed to be many local residents dining despite the low outside profile.

Tosilog lunch at La Republika (Côte-des-Neiges)

It turned out to be the culinary highlight of our trip.  My wife had a very enjoyable pork dish called tosilog, while I had grilled shrimps. I was somewhat surprised to see that the shrimps had not been shelled (or otherwise processed) before being grilled. The waiter brought me some gloves and I spent quite a bit of time trying to shell the slippery-sauced shrimp. All turned out well in the end, even if I made a complete mess and the grilling sauce ended up everywhere.  There was no question that the dish was freshly made!

Grilled shrimp lunch at La Republika (Côte-des-Neiges)

We walked off our lunch feast on Mont-Royal, the small “mountain” that provides excellent views of downtown Montreal (see photo at the top of this post).   After an extended hike, we caught another bus to the Plateau neighbourhood…home of my favourite record store (“Aux 33 Tours”).  It never fails to surprise me with unexpected vinyl treasures. 

Hiking high above the city on Mont-Royal

Cookies and hot chocolate followed in the Plateau, and eventually a late dinner at Qing Hua near our hotel at the edge of Westmount. Qing Hua is a Montreal institution specializing in “Chinese dumplings”…name a filling, and it’s probably available in at least one of their large steamed dumplings. I tried beef curry, as well as vermicelli-mushroom-cabbage.

Stay tuned – there’s more on Montreal!

 

 

Trip Debrief…and revealing the next destination

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From the natural landscapes to the 24-hour loss of heat and power, there certainly was no shortage of drama on my recent trip to Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.

Antelope Canyon

Ultimately, however, the loss of power was just an inconvenience. We met people the day before who cannot connect to the electrical system at all, so that put our temporary loss into perspective.  It also reminded us how utterly dependent we have become on electricity.

Antelope Canyon

From a travel strategy perspective, I was thankful that I had journeyed to these relatively remote areas as part of a group. Having that additional level of support was quite helpful, even on the days when the power remained in force.  I will continue to use small group travel in situations where I don’t think I’m properly equipped to manage on my own if things go wrong.  Off-season travel to remote locations certainly falls into that category, even if there is no language barrier.

Antelope Canyon

Having said that, I am very much looking forward to my next independent adventure.  Later this winter, I will be skiing in countries that are very familiar, but in locations that are new to me. I’ll start by spending several days in and around Les Diablerets, Switzerland. This is in the French-speaking Canton of Vaud, just a few kilometres west of my 2018 ski adventure in Lenk.

Me, hiking determinedly in Zion National Park

From there, I will travel further west for a full week of skiing in Morzine, France. While I have been in France a few times recently (including a wonderful summer 2018 trip to Normandy and Brittany), I have never been skiing there. In fact, I have never been skiing in any French-speaking part of Europe…so far, my only French-speaking skiing has been in the province of Quebec.

Antelope Canyon

Morzine should be a great base. It is part of the vast (201 ski lifts!) Les Portes du Soleil ski region, linking thirteen resorts in both France and Switzerland. We’ll be able to ski back and forth between countries, not just villages!  Stay tuned for lots more on this exciting destination in the Haute-Savoie.

Antelope Canyon

I will end this post by mentioning one more benefit of travelling in a group: being able to get great photos! All of the photos in today’s post were taken by other travellers who graciously allowed me to use them in this blog. If you want to read more, you can check out these recent posts on Antelope Canyon (Arizona) and Zion National Park (Utah).

Redemption at the Grand Canyon

(Tusayan, Arizona, and Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

As depressing as Friday night had been, something very special happened in the wee hours of Saturday morning: the now-24-hour-old power cut suddenly ended. I was happily jolted awake by the clank of the radiator, as it began an extended mission to restore warmth to my frigid room.

First glimpse of the Grand Canyon on Saturday morning

Unbelievably, the power and heat remained in force for the rest of the day. Our group now had some decisions to make. Although we were scheduled to visit the Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, would we be prepared to forego that and get a real glimpse of the Grand Canyon? We unanimously voted in favour of the canyon. There was a chance for redemption!

Looking east from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon

The canyon did not disappoint. Although we did not have much time, we still saw what we came here to see: a vast snow-covered canyon stretching out for miles, and gleaming in the long-overdue sunlight. I walked quickly to the east, to get some different views of the South Rim before our bus had to leave. Our walk into the canyon itself had to be cancelled, but at least we were getting some idea of what it was all about.

View of the main observation area

We returned quickly to our bus, ready to continue on to the legendary Route 66. But fate was not done with us yet. A much larger bus had skidded off the narrow access road to the bus parking lot. It couldn’t gain enough traction to get back on the road. As a result, we were now stuck too, as there was no other (plowed) way out.

Generic Grand Canyon photo, with snow!

After almost an hour, the large bus had still not made any progress. We made the decision to drive across the unplowed parking lot to the also-unplowed back exit, and just hope that the deep snow didn’t strand us as well.

Snowy hike along the South Rim

Finally, we caught a break. We didn’t get stuck, and we could finally continue with our journey. For the first time in days, it felt like everybody would make their flights back home and/or be able to enjoy a final night in Las Vegas.

A stuck bus blocks the only cleared way out of the parking lot

Not so fast. Of course, we encountered more challenges on the way back to Las Vegas. The roads were still very snowy, and we had to be very careful on the highway. Then, Interstate 40 was closed because of an accident, so we had to drive far longer on the not-very-direct Route 66 than we had been anticipating.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

Our stop in Seligman, the most photogenic local remnant of Route 66, lasted barely a minute. Even so, we still managed to get an idea of how life used to be before the arrival of the Interstates. Family-run motels, soda fountains, and gas stations looked like they hadn’t changed for 70 years.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

It was dark by the time we finally arrived in Las Vegas. Although it is not among my favourite cities, I was still very happy to get there. Our group had one final meal together, and absolutely nothing strange happened. It was a perfect way to end what had been a rather challenging day and-a-half. But we had survived, and we had some great stories to tell!

“Setback” in Arizona

(Tusayan, Arizona, U.S.A.)

It is easy to write about the good things on a trip. It is not as easy to write about the things that go wrong. 

Arrival at the Grand Canyon on Thursday afternoon

We arrived at the Grand Canyon late on a Thursday afternoon. It was swimming in fog: we couldn’t see anything more than a few feet from the South Rim of the canyon. However, we weren’t too disappointed, as we would be staying in the area until Saturday morning. Some snow was predicted for the next day, but we figured that would only enhance the scenery (like the snow at Bryce Canyon had done a couple of days before).

First glimpse of the alleged Grand Canyon

When I woke up the next morning, the hotel room was cold.  And very dark.  The power was out. And yes, the heat was out too. I looked out the window: more than a foot of snow had fallen (see photo at the top of this post). This did not look good.

Best picture from Thursday – you can barely see the North Rim. Also a rare moment, with nobody on the usually-crowded observation deck

There were varying estimates on how long the power would be out.  The hotel could not serve breakfast, because the generators were needed to keep the hotel up and running at a minimal level. In fact, no restaurants anywhere in town seemed to be open. Not only were we cold, hungry, and without power, there appeared to be no prospect of an imminent return. The road to the Grand Canyon was closed.  And the snow continued to fall.

Looking down from the South Rim – you can see a large dropoff…sort of.

Interesting things happen when you are faced with no food, no heat, and no power.  All of a sudden, it’s changed from vacation to survival. Which explains why people jammed the only open business: a gas station with no power but some stranded staff. 

Preparing for the apocalypse in the gas station

What do you buy when this may be your only chance to get food for several days?  When a large part of the store consists of products in the “chips” category? And when you know that it will take more than an hour to check out, because the line-up is huge and the bills need to be calculated by hand? Making the best of a bad situation, I loaded up on trail mix, and hoped that the power would return soon.

The hotel parking lot, at about noon on Friday. The snow would continue into the night.

The walk back to the hotel was miserable, with high winds and even some freezing rain pelting my eyes. By Friday night, the gas station was closed, and power had still not returned. The roads into Tusayan remained closed too.  

One power-restoration deadline after another passed. With a nasty cold on top of everything else, this was not my finest hour. I’ve never worn a coat to bed, but there is a first time for everything.  You just don’t know how much colder it is going to get.

(To be continued)

Page, Arizona

(Page, Arizona, U.S.A.)

We had very diverse experiences around the essentially new town of Page, Arizona. We began with a scenic outlook over Lake Powell, which was formed by the damming of the Colorado River. The lake is very quiet now, but it must be teeming with activity in the warmer months.

View of Lake Powell, just outside of Page, Arizona

From there, we went to “Horseshoe Bend”. You may not have heard of it by name, but you’ve probably seen pictures of it. It is a dramatic and very deep (300 metres!) curve of the Colorado River that is shaped like a horseshoe. However, as our guide explained, its current state is a reflection of “Instagram” tourism.

Most of Horseshoe Bend, near Page, Arizona

Before 2018, the parking lot near the top of Horseshoe Bend was unpaved. There was no charge to get in. However, thanks to ever-more dramatic photos of Horseshoe Bend, people have flocked here to take a look at it…and take their own photos to post on social media. As a result, entry fees are now charged (and the parking lot is paved).

At the top of Horseshoe Bend

Alas, even in late November, it does not seem that the traffic has abated very much. Just like seeing Venice or the Mona Lisa, you do not get to enjoy it in quiet contemplation of its beauty and/or your own insignificance.

Our group touring Antelope Canyon

Our visit to the Antelope Canyon was quite a contrast.  This is another slot canyon, but completely different from what we saw in Zion National Park. Through erosion and flooding, the bright red rock has evolved into a kind of underground maze with massive rounded shapes, arches, and spires. 

Bizarre shapes deep inside Antelope Canyon

It seems like the kind of place that Antoni Gaudí might have designed, if he worked with geological processes. Other than that, I think the photographs will do a better job of explaining what Antelope Canyon is like…even though my photos are compromised somewhat by the very difficult lighting inside the canyon.

More strange things in Antelope Canyon

For lunch that day, we visited a Navajo community and had “Navajo Tacos” for lunch. They aren’t really tacos, but pieces of frybread with tacoesque toppings. Although historically associated with the Navajo and other nearby nations, frybread was only developed here in 1864 using colonial ingredients. It was also very interesting to hear about economic development from the Navajo perspective.

My “Navajo Taco”

The day concluded with a long drive to Tusayan, Arizona. The name may not sound familiar, but the nearby national park certainly will. I’ll have details about that in the next post…I have a feeling that it won’t be a typical tourist experience!  

Bryce Canyon – Dr. Seuss comes to life!

(Bryce Canyon, Utah, U.S.A.)

From Zion National Park, it’s not that long a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park. Just when you think you’ve left the bizarre geology behind, Bryce Canyon abounds with it.

First glimpse of the “Queen’s Garden” trail at Bryce Canyon

I didn’t really know what exactly to expect at Bryce Canyon. Well, the “Canyon” title was a bit of a hint, but I had no idea how it would differ from what we had seen at Zion. Sometimes, not knowing too much about where you are going is a blessing: it can make the “Wow” factor even more intense.

Off-season crowds in Bryce Canyon!

It was only a few steps from our parking lot to the canyon rim at Sunrise Point. A huge dropoff, of course, but the colours seemed just a bit more intense than I had seen before.  And the hoodoos were something else: random shapes reaching up to the sky…just like in a Dr. Seuss book. 

Near the bottom of the canyon

And it wasn’t just the shapes that were compelling. Recent snowfall had left a brilliant white frosting on it all. As you descended into the canyon, the contrasting colour from the vibrant evergreens created one “Wow” moment after another. In my continuing camera battery saga, I saw the battery warning light (for my new batteries) after less than an hour on the trail.  

Natural stone arch over the hiking trail

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, it was time to ascend the canyon to Sunset Point. The snow and ice made the already steep climb an even greater challenge. Of course, the greatest challenges usually yield the greatest rewards. Picture Lombard Street in San Francisco, the famous street that ratchets up a very steep hill. Stack a few of those on top of each other, and then add stupendously tall red pillars on either side, sparkling snowy trim, and a brilliant blue sky…it was one Kodak moment after another.

Near the top of “Lombard Street”, just below Sunset Point

I’ve had many memorable Alpine walks, but this one has to rank right up there with the best.  Once again, going in the off-season was a plus rather than a minus: the snow made it visually even more stunning, but the cool temperatures also meant the hike was manageable. And the crowds were nowhere near what they would have been in the summer. I’ll take the high winds and the occasional icy patch any day.

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point

I’ve just picked a sample of the many pictures I took that day. Even with the limitations of my camera, there were many great ones that didn’t make it to this post. If you like the pictures, stay tuned: I’m sure more will pop up in the future!

Beginning the climb up to Sunset Point

Coming up: we veer south into the state of Arizona.

Zion National Park – Day 2

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Well, this was certainly an adventure! Our mission was to hike up a very narrow slot canyon (called “The Narrows”, of course) in the last week of November. And THROUGH, not beside, the water. This sounded crazy, especially with nighttime temperatures dipping below zero. But, thanks to science, it was still “mission possible”.

Even though the water level was not particularly high, there just isn’t enough room to walk on the side. Often, there is no room on either side. So, if you want to walk, you have to wade. And the water is often waist deep.

So why would you want to get soaked and remain that way for 4-5 hours? Well, the slot canyon is a unique geological feature, and what better way to appreciate it than by traveling through it? The walls can be up to 2000 feet high!

To deal with the cold and wet conditions and not get hypothermia, you need special equipment. Your upper and lower base layers are the same as you would wear for an ordinary (dry) walk. You then have to wear neoprene pants with a special “gasket” (rubber seal) at the ankle. This is to prevent water from going up your legs. You then wear two pairs of space-age foam booties, as well as special canyon walking boots that help walking over the slippery, rough, loose, and/or sharp stones on the canyon floor.

Your feet will get wet after a minute or two of walking. But, somehow, as long as you keep moving, your body heat manages to keep your feet warm. In fact, it’s better to walk in the water than to sit around outside of it. Add a walking stick, and you’re good to go! Just don’t fall in the water, unless you rented the full body suit!

I wish I could tell you about the specific places in the slot canyon. Alas, I was watching my steps carefully and only taking the occasional photo. Today’s pictures are all from that hike, in no particular order. The light was tricky, and 2000 foot walls are hard to photograph from the bottom, but hopefully the pictures give a good idea of what the trek was like.

Apparently, the neoprene is not necessary in the summer: walking the canyon is more of a way to cool off (assuming you have proper footwear), and hypothermia is not really an issue. Of course, the crowds are much more of an issue then!

Looking straight up from the bottom of the slot canyon

Bottom line: I didn’t even know this activity existed before this week. I was a bit afraid of the cold, but it all worked out. I’m even considering trying this myself sometime in Canada…what better way to truly experience a beautiful river?

This is our bus for the week. It is parked at our hotel in Springdale, Utah.

Stay tuned for more from Utah…things get even more unearthly!