All posts by pierrev

“Setback” in Arizona

(Tusayan, Arizona, U.S.A.)

It is easy to write about the good things on a trip. It is not as easy to write about the things that go wrong. 

Arrival at the Grand Canyon on Thursday afternoon

We arrived at the Grand Canyon late on a Thursday afternoon. It was swimming in fog: we couldn’t see anything more than a few feet from the South Rim of the canyon. However, we weren’t too disappointed, as we would be staying in the area until Saturday morning. Some snow was predicted for the next day, but we figured that would only enhance the scenery (like the snow at Bryce Canyon had done a couple of days before).

First glimpse of the alleged Grand Canyon

When I woke up the next morning, the hotel room was cold.  And very dark.  The power was out. And yes, the heat was out too. I looked out the window: more than a foot of snow had fallen (see photo at the top of this post). This did not look good.

Best picture from Thursday – you can barely see the North Rim. Also a rare moment, with nobody on the usually-crowded observation deck

There were varying estimates on how long the power would be out.  The hotel could not serve breakfast, because the generators were needed to keep the hotel up and running at a minimal level. In fact, no restaurants anywhere in town seemed to be open. Not only were we cold, hungry, and without power, there appeared to be no prospect of an imminent return. The road to the Grand Canyon was closed.  And the snow continued to fall.

Looking down from the South Rim – you can see a large dropoff…sort of.

Interesting things happen when you are faced with no food, no heat, and no power.  All of a sudden, it’s changed from vacation to survival. Which explains why people jammed the only open business: a gas station with no power but some stranded staff. 

Preparing for the apocalypse in the gas station

What do you buy when this may be your only chance to get food for several days?  When a large part of the store consists of products in the “chips” category? And when you know that it will take more than an hour to check out, because the line-up is huge and the bills need to be calculated by hand? Making the best of a bad situation, I loaded up on trail mix, and hoped that the power would return soon.

The hotel parking lot, at about noon on Friday. The snow would continue into the night.

The walk back to the hotel was miserable, with high winds and even some freezing rain pelting my eyes. By Friday night, the gas station was closed, and power had still not returned. The roads into Tusayan remained closed too.  

One power-restoration deadline after another passed. With a nasty cold on top of everything else, this was not my finest hour. I’ve never worn a coat to bed, but there is a first time for everything.  You just don’t know how much colder it is going to get.

(To be continued)

Page, Arizona

(Page, Arizona, U.S.A.)

We had very diverse experiences around the essentially new town of Page, Arizona. We began with a scenic outlook over Lake Powell, which was formed by the damming of the Colorado River. The lake is very quiet now, but it must be teeming with activity in the warmer months.

View of Lake Powell, just outside of Page, Arizona

From there, we went to “Horseshoe Bend”. You may not have heard of it by name, but you’ve probably seen pictures of it. It is a dramatic and very deep (300 metres!) curve of the Colorado River that is shaped like a horseshoe. However, as our guide explained, its current state is a reflection of “Instagram” tourism.

Most of Horseshoe Bend, near Page, Arizona

Before 2018, the parking lot near the top of Horseshoe Bend was unpaved. There was no charge to get in. However, thanks to ever-more dramatic photos of Horseshoe Bend, people have flocked here to take a look at it…and take their own photos to post on social media. As a result, entry fees are now charged (and the parking lot is paved).

At the top of Horseshoe Bend

Alas, even in late November, it does not seem that the traffic has abated very much. Just like seeing Venice or the Mona Lisa, you do not get to enjoy it in quiet contemplation of its beauty and/or your own insignificance.

Our group touring Antelope Canyon

Our visit to the Antelope Canyon was quite a contrast.  This is another slot canyon, but completely different from what we saw in Zion National Park. Through erosion and flooding, the bright red rock has evolved into a kind of underground maze with massive rounded shapes, arches, and spires. 

Bizarre shapes deep inside Antelope Canyon

It seems like the kind of place that Antoni Gaudí might have designed, if he worked with geological processes. Other than that, I think the photographs will do a better job of explaining what Antelope Canyon is like…even though my photos are compromised somewhat by the very difficult lighting inside the canyon.

More strange things in Antelope Canyon

For lunch that day, we visited a Navajo community and had “Navajo Tacos” for lunch. They aren’t really tacos, but pieces of frybread with tacoesque toppings. Although historically associated with the Navajo and other nearby nations, frybread was only developed here in 1864 using colonial ingredients. It was also very interesting to hear about economic development from the Navajo perspective.

My “Navajo Taco”

The day concluded with a long drive to Tusayan, Arizona. The name may not sound familiar, but the nearby national park certainly will. I’ll have details about that in the next post…I have a feeling that it won’t be a typical tourist experience!  

Bryce Canyon – Dr. Seuss comes to life!

(Bryce Canyon, Utah, U.S.A.)

From Zion National Park, it’s not that long a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park. Just when you think you’ve left the bizarre geology behind, Bryce Canyon abounds with it.

First glimpse of the “Queen’s Garden” trail at Bryce Canyon

I didn’t really know what exactly to expect at Bryce Canyon. Well, the “Canyon” title was a bit of a hint, but I had no idea how it would differ from what we had seen at Zion. Sometimes, not knowing too much about where you are going is a blessing: it can make the “Wow” factor even more intense.

Off-season crowds in Bryce Canyon!

It was only a few steps from our parking lot to the canyon rim at Sunrise Point. A huge dropoff, of course, but the colours seemed just a bit more intense than I had seen before.  And the hoodoos were something else: random shapes reaching up to the sky…just like in a Dr. Seuss book. 

Near the bottom of the canyon

And it wasn’t just the shapes that were compelling. Recent snowfall had left a brilliant white frosting on it all. As you descended into the canyon, the contrasting colour from the vibrant evergreens created one “Wow” moment after another. In my continuing camera battery saga, I saw the battery warning light (for my new batteries) after less than an hour on the trail.  

Natural stone arch over the hiking trail

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, it was time to ascend the canyon to Sunset Point. The snow and ice made the already steep climb an even greater challenge. Of course, the greatest challenges usually yield the greatest rewards. Picture Lombard Street in San Francisco, the famous street that ratchets up a very steep hill. Stack a few of those on top of each other, and then add stupendously tall red pillars on either side, sparkling snowy trim, and a brilliant blue sky…it was one Kodak moment after another.

Near the top of “Lombard Street”, just below Sunset Point

I’ve had many memorable Alpine walks, but this one has to rank right up there with the best.  Once again, going in the off-season was a plus rather than a minus: the snow made it visually even more stunning, but the cool temperatures also meant the hike was manageable. And the crowds were nowhere near what they would have been in the summer. I’ll take the high winds and the occasional icy patch any day.

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point

I’ve just picked a sample of the many pictures I took that day. Even with the limitations of my camera, there were many great ones that didn’t make it to this post. If you like the pictures, stay tuned: I’m sure more will pop up in the future!

Beginning the climb up to Sunset Point

Coming up: we veer south into the state of Arizona.

Zion National Park – Day 2

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Well, this was certainly an adventure! Our mission was to hike up a very narrow slot canyon (called “The Narrows”, of course) in the last week of November. And THROUGH, not beside, the water. This sounded crazy, especially with nighttime temperatures dipping below zero. But, thanks to science, it was still “mission possible”.

Even though the water level was not particularly high, there just isn’t enough room to walk on the side. Often, there is no room on either side. So, if you want to walk, you have to wade. And the water is often waist deep.

So why would you want to get soaked and remain that way for 4-5 hours? Well, the slot canyon is a unique geological feature, and what better way to appreciate it than by traveling through it? The walls can be up to 2000 feet high!

To deal with the cold and wet conditions and not get hypothermia, you need special equipment. Your upper and lower base layers are the same as you would wear for an ordinary (dry) walk. You then have to wear neoprene pants with a special “gasket” (rubber seal) at the ankle. This is to prevent water from going up your legs. You then wear two pairs of space-age foam booties, as well as special canyon walking boots that help walking over the slippery, rough, loose, and/or sharp stones on the canyon floor.

Your feet will get wet after a minute or two of walking. But, somehow, as long as you keep moving, your body heat manages to keep your feet warm. In fact, it’s better to walk in the water than to sit around outside of it. Add a walking stick, and you’re good to go! Just don’t fall in the water, unless you rented the full body suit!

I wish I could tell you about the specific places in the slot canyon. Alas, I was watching my steps carefully and only taking the occasional photo. Today’s pictures are all from that hike, in no particular order. The light was tricky, and 2000 foot walls are hard to photograph from the bottom, but hopefully the pictures give a good idea of what the trek was like.

Apparently, the neoprene is not necessary in the summer: walking the canyon is more of a way to cool off (assuming you have proper footwear), and hypothermia is not really an issue. Of course, the crowds are much more of an issue then!

Looking straight up from the bottom of the slot canyon

Bottom line: I didn’t even know this activity existed before this week. I was a bit afraid of the cold, but it all worked out. I’m even considering trying this myself sometime in Canada…what better way to truly experience a beautiful river?

This is our bus for the week. It is parked at our hotel in Springdale, Utah.

Stay tuned for more from Utah…things get even more unearthly!

Zion National Park – Day 1

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Talk about culture shock! After the sensory assault that was Las Vegas, a couple of hours on the road took us to a much different kind of sensation at Zion National Park in southwestern Utah (photo above is taken from the main lodge area). 

These wild turkeys charged us, but thankfully did not hurt us

This is our first destination in a tour of the “Canyonlands” of the American southwest. While the weather started off overcast and soon turned to rain, we still managed to hike a few miles up and get a feel for the immense scale of the canyons in Zion.  It started off easy (see the photo below), but soon became much more difficult.

The climb begins!

Once the rain began, the visibility got worse and worse…and so did the strength of my batteries! It didn’t make for my finest series of photographs, but it was awesome even with the ever-present mist.  You can get an idea of the scale by looking at the size of the trees in some of the “rock face photos”.

This tranquil pool ends in a sheer cliff…don’t get too close!

The sheer walls of rock reminded me a bit of the Italian Dolomites in places, or possibly the North Face of the Eiger. It was also a bit like ski touring, where you have to pay your dues climbing up the mountain…and you then get rewarded by skiing down the thrilling terrain.  As with skiing, the hiking was much easier going down than going up. However, with the intense red earth (all over my hiking boots at the moment), the experience at Zion was completely different. 

One of the immense stone faces near the “Upper Emerald Pools”

Tomorrow will be even more of an adventure.  The weather is supposed to be clearer, and we are hiking up a canyon for several hours. But not just a path alongside the river! No, the canyon is too narrow for that. Instead, we will be hiking up the river itself, wearing special neoprene hiking gear.  Considering how cold it is here now (around zero degrees in the evening), we are certainly going to putting this special equipment to the test!

The cliffs get crazier as you climb higher…no camera can capture it all, especially with the mist!

Stay tuned to see how this all works out. The camera batteries have been replaced and I look forward to capturing some more of the splendour!

Arrival in Las Vegas

(Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

This is my first time in Las Vegas. I’m just using it as a jumping off point for my express tour of the “canyonlands” in Utah and Arizona, but I’m here long enough to form some impressions.

Part of the “Fremont Street Experience”, in downtown Las Vegas

My flight arrived in the late evening, so the bus ride in from the airport was an extravaganza of activity and lights. I had to walk 4 blocks from my bus stop to my hotel (the Golden Nugget, in downtown Las Vegas). Ever try navigating Fremont Street at 11:00 p.m. on a Saturday night with a suitcase and a backpack? It’s complete sensory overload: there are concerts, buskers, rapid-fire light shows on the “roof” over Fremont Street, people ziplining overhead, people in various stages of exuberance and/or intoxication…I was glad to make it to the hotel unscathed!

The “Heart Attack Grill”, that apparently serves free meals to those over 350 pounds

There are definitely some interesting things here (particularly some of the entertainment), but I already find myself rebelling against certain aspects of the place. For breakfast, I went to a vegan restaurant away from the main street. The atmosphere was peaceful, the food was very good, and it was hard to believe that this was the same city that seemed so overwhelming the night before.

My breakfast at the VegeNation vegan restaurant. Those aren’t scrambled eggs, of course.

Not all of my food adventures were successful. I saw a “Donut Bar” that looked really good, so I decided to return there a bit later when I had more of an appetite. Alas, it closes each day when it sells out of the day’s stock…and they sold the last one just as I returned.  Things improved again when I ventured away from the main part of Fremont Street for lunch.  I found a family-run Thai place that, among other things, served excellent Thai iced tea.     

It’s licensed, so it really is a “Donut Bar”! Carson Street, Las Vegas.

Moving on down the list of Las Vegas cliches, it didn’t take long to find an express wedding chapel.  This one started in 1940 and would be rather “traditional” (as these things go); I’m sure the newer ones have all kinds of unusual approaches.

Wedding Chapel on Las Vegas Boulevard

And then, there’s the gambling. I was actually a little saddened by what I saw. The number of slot machines is incomprehensible. Each hotel must have thousands of them. But many of the people playing them seemed bored and unhappy. They looked passively resigned to their fate. At least the players at the card tables seemed to be engaged in what they were doing. 

A small part of a small casino in Las Vegas

I’m glad I had a chance to look around, but I don’t think this is a place that I’ll need to see again.  To paraphrase Macbeth: it is definitely “full of sound and fury”, but it is up to each individual to decide if it is really “signifying nothing”. As for me, I’m glad to be heading for Utah in the morning. I’m really looking forward to some active travel in the midst of some stunning natural wonders.

My next bucket list item

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I didn’t use quite as many vacation days as I was anticipating this summer, so I started looking into travel options for a late fall getaway of a week or so.  Although I usually travel independently, I felt like entrusting some of the logistics to someone else this time: for a short trip, this would help ensure that my limited time was used effectively.  As usual, my eventual destination was nowhere near what I had originally planned.

I began with looking at a return to Latin America, with Ecuador being at the top of the list.  However, I began to waver because Ecuador seemed kind of far away for just a one -week trip. As it turns out, I’m glad I didn’t move ahead with those plans: there is currently significant civil unrest in Ecuador, and my preferred tour operator has apparently cancelled a number of tours there. 

And then, inspiration hit. I was taking a look at some promotions, and found a number of tours that were 30% off the regular price. One of them caught my eye…it was in a part of the world that has been on my subconscious bucket list for ages but I somehow never got around to seeing. 

This tour ticked all the boxes: it was for a small group only (maximum 16 participants), it was an active tour with a significant amount of walking, it was off-season (and therefore wouldn’t be too busy), it would have very comfortable weather, and it wasn’t too far from home.  With it being 30% off, and finding some direct flights at an affordable price, I made a quick decision to go for  it.

So, in a few short weeks, I will be going on a tour of the “Canyonlands” of Utah and Arizona! This includes the Grand Canyon, but also places such as Bryce Canyon National Park, Antelope Canyon, and Zion National Park. My flights are to Las Vegas, so I will also get at least a brief glimpse of the glitz and glamour there…again, for the very first time.  And I also get to travel on a bit of the legendary Route 66!

I really enjoy doing long walks when I’m on holiday: it’s a great way to be “in the moment” and see things that you can’t when you’re on a bus all day.  These destinations will be especially spectacular on foot, and I understand that we will be taking a trail that descends into the Grand Canyon. 

I’m really excited about this trip.  I’m sure it will be intense but exhilirating…and will make a great prelude to my winter ski trip. That ski trip will involve a country I’ve been to before, but never for skiing.  Curious? Stay tuned to this blog!

(Today’s photos were all taken within one hour, on a walk around my sister-in-law’s place near Yarker, Ontario, Canada.)

More sports travel

(Richmond Hill, Stouffville, and Kingston)

I thought this post would be about my rapidly approaching “bucket list” adventure in November. However, I’m going to defer that again, in order to report on some recent sports-related travel.

The opening ceremony for the women’s event in Richmond Hill

I recently participated in the provincial lawn bowling championships in the men’s novice (less than 5 years of experience) singles category. As only 16 bowlers qualified, and there are well over 100 lawn bowling clubs in Ontario, it was an honour just to attend.  Even better, my wife also qualified in the concurrent women’s competition!

The opening procession in the men’s event at Stouffville

This year’s event was held in Stouffville (see photo at top of this post) and Richmond Hill, just over 3 hours west of Kingston. We drove up on Friday to check out the facilities and get some practice on the greens where our sporting fates would be decided over the following two days. I knew quite a few of the competitors, so it was nice to catch up with them before the competition started.

Awaiting the start of the first game in Stouffville

The opening ceremonies on Saturday were very early.  We were piped onto the greens by a bagpiper, and were welcomed by provincial and federal politicians. The early start is out of necessity, as we would have to play three games (plus any necessary tiebreakers) that day and each singles game can take 2-3 hours. Singles bowling really is a test of mental and physical stamina.

Delivering a bowl on Saturday morning

My Saturday in Stouffville went well, so I qualified to play in the playoff rounds in Richmond Hill on Sunday. Both clubs are located in the respective “downtown” cores: each one is a peaceful oasis in the middle of a rapidly growing urban area. Decades ago, I used to travel to Richmond Hill occasionally to play hockey, but the population has increased by a factor of nearly ten since then!

The umpires are called in to make a measurement

Of course, playing sports outdoors all day will work up an appetite, so we enjoyed a bountiful Hungarian meal at the Rhapsody restaurant near the Richmond Hill Club.  There were also appealing Persian and Trinidadian options nearby.

Preparing for a critical bowl on Sunday afternoon in Richmond Hill

Sunday was an even greater test of endurance, especially when the heat cranked up in the afternoon. I played three further matches, with the second one lasting an incredible 3 hours and 20 minutes.  With perhaps 30 minutes between matches, it was a very long day indeed.  While curling is the sport that employs skills most similar to lawn bowling, I think the conditioning provided by soccer and hockey also came in handy during the heat of the tournament.

On our way to Stouffville, we found this great Dutch deli in Whitby, Ontario!

By the time the tournament was finally over, it was 7:00 p.m. and we still had to drive back to Kingston and get ready for work the next day. Going out for dinner would have made us even later. Fortunately, the incredibly kind tournament hosts set us up with some food for the long drive home. This is the sort of goodwill that is found so often in the sport: though we all do our best to win, there is also a strong sense that we are “all in this together”.  We are both looking forward to visiting Richmond Hill and Stouffville again some day, and to seeing our fellow competitors at future events around the province.

Russ Howard gives some technical instruction at the Royal Kingston Curling Club

The very next weekend, I attended a curling clinic. It was hosted by Canadian curling legend Russ Howard. I learned all kinds of cool things about the game…as well as how incredibly skilled the national-level athletes must be in order to succeed.  It was a nice way to transition from summer to winter sports.

Practicing our skills at the Russ Howard curling clinic

 I will be staying close to home for the next month or so.  I promise that the next post really will be about my upcoming trip!

(Special thanks to the tournament organizers, who graciously allowed me to use some photographs for this blog)

The PARHAM FAIR

(Parham, Ontario)

With a tournament cancelled this past weekend, we decided to go for a small local road trip. After a rescheduled birthday lunch in Napanee, our route took us through a number of small Lennox & Addington County communities to the slightly larger village of Tamworth.

This is where we had lunch in Napanee

Tamworth was in the local news recently because its last remaining bank branch had just closed. However, it is still well served by cafes and second-hand shops, so I enjoyed an unexpectedly large ice cream cone at the snack bar in the Black Cat Cafe. We saw somebody kitted up in authentic cowboy gear…but thought nothing of it at the time. As it turned out, this was a clever bit of foreshadowing.

The Tamworth Hotel (and Black Cat Cafe)

We then took the mysterious Mountain Road from Tamworth to the small village of Parham. Some maps don’t even show this road, while others show it as “unsurfaced”. Fortunately, it does exist and is now completely paved. The road goes through rocky and swampy country that is unsuitable for farming, and there were very few homes along the road. Little remained from the original settlements of the late 19th century. We felt much farther away from the city than we actually were.

Somewhere between Tamworth and Parham

Eventually, however, we arrived in Parham.  I often passed through Parham on the way to childhood cottage vacations, but never spent any time here. Much to our surprise, the 127th annual Parham Fair was being held. We spontaneously decided to attend, having no idea what was on offer. While there weren’t any rides like at some larger fairs, the Parham Fair seemed to have largely retained its focus on agriculture.

The band at the Parham Fair

In the exhibit “Palace”, we saw many fine examples of crafts, cooking, and produce. There were prizes in categories such as the best pickling cucumbers. But there was another category that caught my eye: the “Freaky Vegetables” category. This was where people could submit “unusually formed” vegetables. The winner was a tomato that appear to be a fusion of two tomatoes (one green and one red) at totally different stages of development…and possibly were not even the same kind of tomato.

Entries in the “Freaky Vegetables” category at the Parham Fair (winner at bottom left)

We then settled in to watch the horse pull. Our verdict: horses are very big and very strong. Even though there were only two horses per entrant, and the combined weight limit for the horses was just over 3000 pounds, they had little trouble pulling loads well in excess of that.  Just to be safe, I didn’t get too close…although I also didn’t want to trigger my horse allergy!

Feeding time before the big competition at the Parham Fair

The fair food was reasonably priced, and most of it was locally made.  We heard part of the band’s set (appropriately, it was straight out country music), but unfortunately missed out on other events such as the demolition derby and the cattle show.  

Horses in action at the Parham Fair

Before the unexpected visit to the fair, I had planned to write a lengthy post about some of the travel planning I’d been doing over the past few weeks. I’ll defer the details (and some of the photos from today’s trip) until my next post, but I can say that I will be having a “bucket list” international experience in November…and I am very excited about the European ski destination I have now chosen for the end of February.  

Dresden, Saxony

(Dresden)

This blog has been quiet for a few weeks, although I have certainly been putting in a lot of miles. I haven’t been travelling much for travel’s sake, but my sports activities have taken me to places like Oshawa, Cobourg, Belleville…and Dresden.

Dresden is a city of more than half a million people. It is the capital of the eastern German state of Saxony.  And I did indeed visit “Dresden” recently, and I stayed in the “Saxony Motel” (see photo at top of this post).  However, instead of a re-emerging city in the former East Germany, I was in an altogether different kind of Dresden.  

The Dresden Lawn Bowling Club

6 hours west of Kingston is the small (population 2, 800) agricultural community of Dresden, Ontario, and I was there to participate in the provincial pairs lawn bowling championships .  This was precisely the type of “random” travel experience I hoped would unfold this summer.   I thought Dresden might be vaguely like Hanover (another Ontario town named after a German city). which I also visited more or less at random in 2015.  However, Dresden was quite a bit smaller…and smelled a bit like tomato soup!  I wasn’t just imagining this: there is a ketchup and vegetable canning factory right across the street from the lawn bowling club.

Sydenham Street in Dresden, Ontario

The heat was intense, so quite a bit of my time in Dresden (and in the nearby city of Chatham, where the Saxony Motel was located) was spent keeping cool and out of the sun.  But I still enjoyed the slower place of life, and catching up with people I had met at previous tournaments.  The side streets of Dresden were well-maintained and had plenty of Victorian red brick homes. 

I hope that my summer will continue to offer experiences like this one, although slightly cooler temperatures would be nice! And even if I am not be travelling quite as far as in previous summers (Chile is not in the cards this year). I do have some fun plans simmering in the background.  I will be heading overseas in the winter…and maybe even before then?