All posts by pierrev

Arrival in Chile’s Lake District

(Puerto Varas, Chile)

After a couple of days in the Santiago area, we flew down to Puerto Montt, the “capital” of the Chilean lake district.  Our first stop was the market in the Angelmó district:  while originally a fish market, it has grown to include cheese, meat, vegetables, and various other edible sea products such as barnacles and seaweed.  Now that cruise ships occasionally call at Puerto Montt, it also has more tourist-oriented items such as wood carvings, ponchos, and wool gloves, socks and toques.

We bought cheese from this vendor at the Angelmo Market in Puerto Montt
We bought cheese from this vendor at the Angelmo Market in Puerto Montt

While Puerto Montt is one of the fastest-growing cities in South America, nature is still very prominent here.  We were entertained by sea lions in the harbour; we suspect that they were asking for food.  They seemed quite playful until one suddenly lunged forward and barked at us:  it was quite loud and we all took a few steps back from the shore. We also saw lots of pelicans:  if you haven’t seen one fly before, it is very odd to see an airborne bird with such a large beak.

Sea lions at the harbour in Puerto Montt
Sea lions at the harbour in Puerto Montt

From Puerto Montt, we drove to our home for the next two nights:  the resort town of Puerto Varas, on the shores of Lago Llanquihue (pronounced somewhat like “Yon-Kee-Way”).  This town has a rich German-speaking history that is reflected in the family names, the architecture, and the “Kuchen” (cakes) for sale everywhere.  Most of the original European settlers here were from Germany, Switzerland or Austria:  they were attracted here in the 1800s by offers of free land.  Our Spanish-speaking bus driver was named Helmut.

One of the outdoor stalls at the Angelmó market in Puerto Montt, Chile
One of the outdoor stalls at the Angelmó market in Puerto Montt, Chile

While the Andean lakeside setting is beautiful, Puerto Varas is probably best known for its (weather-permitting) stunning views of Volcán Osorno…the Osorno volcano that last erupted in 1869.  It is seen from the Puerto Varas harbour, in the photo at the top of this post.  I’ll be writing more about this volcano later!

Our curanto!
Our curanto!

For lunch, we went to a private home for a very typical dinner from this part of Chile:  curanto.  While it was originally cooked underground, it is now more frequently prepared in a large conventional pot.   It is a collection of many ingredients, most notably a huge amount of mussels and clams.  However, it also contains potato dumplings and regular (albeit colourful) potatoes.  While it also used to contain sea lion and seagull, these are now generally replaced by pork and chicken.

The harbour in Puerto Varas, Chile
The harbour in Puerto Varas, Chile

After taking so many photos of Volcán Osorno, it would be a shame not to pay it a closer visit.  Stay tuned for the details!

Trip to a Chilean Winery…and eating Santiago street food

(Santiago, Chile)

We travelled to the nearby Maipo Valley today in order to visit a local winery.  We went to the Pérez Cruz winery: I was not previously familiar with it…but it turns out that Canada is its second biggest export market, after the U.K.

We stopped at this roadside cafe on the way to the winery
We stopped at this roadside cafe on the way to the winery

This was a very modern facility:  all wood and curving walls.  We went into the cellars to taste some not-yet-aged wine (French oak barrels are generally preferred) before seeing some of the production facilities and finally doing a taste test.  I was very curious about this, as I am not much of a red wine drinker and Pérez Cruz only makes red wine.

The Perez Cruz Winery, in Chile's Maipo Valley
The Perez Cruz Winery, in Chile’s Maipo Valley

We were given samples of three limited-edition/premium red wines:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz) and Carménère.  We were also given a plate of various cheeses and crackers.   The idea is that you have a small piece of cheese with each wine.  If either the cheese or the wine is overpowered by the other, it is not a good pairing.  However, if they both retain their flavour, they are complementary.  It was fascinating to eat a strong cheese but not taste it at all because it was overpowered by the wine.  Similarly, some of the cheeses made an objectively bold-tasting wine taste like water.

Tasting new wine directly from the barrel
Tasting new wine directly from the barrel

Much to my surprise, the taste testing confirmed that I enjoyed the Shiraz the most.  It was a little sweeter than the others; we found out later that Shiraz is often chosen by those who actually prefer white wine.  We are learning a lot of unexpected things here in Chile!

Time for the taste test!
Time for the taste test!

After returning to Santiago, we were on our own for the rest of the day.  We decided to find our own lunch at the Mercado Central (“Central Market”).  While this was a little touristy and focused on seafood (see photo at the top of this post), we found another market a few blocks north that catered slightly more to locals.  However, if we wanted to eat, we would have to speak Spanish!  We kept it simple and had a couple of very cheesy empanadas (one with shrimp, one without).  Success!

A local market in Santiago
A local market in Santiago

We then explored Bellavista:  this is known as the “Bohemian and cultural barrio” of Santiago   It was probably more Bohemian than cultural, as our local guide had indeed suggested earlier.   Santiago is much like Toronto in some respects:  although it is a very large city, it is also a collection of neighbourhoods that have their own very strong identities.

This was where we had some Mexican-style empanadas in downtown Santiago
This was where we had some Mexican-style empanadas in downtown Santiago

While we have enjoyed acclimatizing to Chile in Santiago, the real reasons for our trip to this part of the world still lie ahead.  Our language training continues and we are ready for some exciting outdoor adventures!

On the road again…in Chile!

(Santiago, Chile)

For many, many years, I have wanted to visit Chile.  After a few false starts, including a 2014 trip to Patagonia that *nearly* happened (I went to Costa Rica instead), it has finally become a reality. It’s winter here – quite a shock as Kingston temperatures have been hovering around 30’C for the past couple of weeks.  Fortunately, the daytime temperatures in Santiago still get up to about 15’C.  It will get much colder later in our trip!

A collection of food trucks on Avenida Libertador General Bernardo O'Higgins in Santiago, Chile
A collection of food trucks on Avenida Libertador General Bernardo O’Higgins in Santiago, Chile

As English-speaking tourists are not as common here as they are in Costa Rica, it really was essential for us to learn some Spanish before we got here…hence, the Duolingo crash course that my wife and I have been taking over the past week.  In fact, we are still working on it, even though we have already arrived!

Avenida Londres, near our hotel in Santiago,Chile
Avenida Londres, near our hotel in Santiago,Chile

After a long overnight flight from Canada, we just wandered around downtown Santiago today. Nothing too adventurous yet.  We climbed to the top of Cerro Santa Lucía, a huge downtown park that is only a few blocks from our hotel and offers views (see photo at the top of this post) of the entire city.   This is where the city was first founded.  They really try to  provide a safe family atmosphere: even though the park is free, they still ask people to sign in and indicate where there are from.

View from our hotel of Avenida Paris (Santiago, Chile)
View from our hotel of Avenida Paris (Santiago, Chile)

We also did some grocery shopping – this is always a fun way to immerse yourself in a new place.  Our main mission today was to buy some bottled water: the local water is drinkable but heavily mineralized and can be troublesome if you are not used to it. We also picked up some interesting local snacks.

Near the bottom of Serro Santa Lucia (Santiago, Chile)
Near the bottom of Serro Santa Lucia (Santiago, Chile)

Finally, we wandered through the Plaza de Armas:  this is the “heart of the city” and is festooned with palm trees.  It was especially busy as this was a religious festival day; we took the opportunity to visit the huge Santiago Cathedral and explore the pedestrianized Paseo Ahumada before returning to our hotel.  Our hotel is in the Barrio Paris/Londres:  a very small and elegant cobblestoned neighbourhood that, as the name suggests, looks like it has been transplanted from northern Europe.

Plaza de Armas - the heart of downtown Santiago
Plaza de Armas – the heart of downtown Santiago

We’re joining a small tour group for the next little while before striking out on our own at the end of our trip.  We met our group for the first time tonight and it seems like a good combination of people with diverse backgrounds yet shared interests.  We enjoyed dinner together outside on a rooftop in the Barrio Lastarria and will be heading out for our first group expedition in the morning.  Stay tuned for our South American adventure!

Learning a Language in 5 Days

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Yes, I said that the next post would be from “on the road”.  While I am on the road already, I actually wrote this at home.  One of the best parts about running my own blog is that I can change my mind!

As I do not speak the language of the two countries I’m visiting on this trip, I decided to try an experiment.  Could I learn the language in less than a week, using only online tools?

More Cuban Crocodiles in Stockholm, Sweden
More Cuban Crocodiles in Stockholm, Sweden

I decided to try my experiment using the “Duolingo” app/website.  You can use it to learn multiple languages…simultaneously, if you want!  There are two ways to start working on your foreign language skills:  as an absolute beginner, or using a five minute placement test that will send you directly to your approximate level of fluency.  Just for fun, I decided to do the placement tests for French and German.  I was curious to see how my fluency in each of those languages would be assessed.  I figured that my German grammar and pronunciation would be better but I thought that I had better French vocabulary.

Swedish primates grooming each other.
Swedish primates grooming each other.

The placement test gives you a percentage score that represents your fluency in that language.   It also adapts to your performance:  if it is clear from the start that you don’t know very much, the remaining questions will focus on the basic components of the language to more accurately determine where you need work.  My scores confirmed that my French skills were not measuring up to my German ones.  Even so, it was encouraging to see that I was not too far from fluency.  I was tempted to work on those languages…but, alas, that would have to wait.  I had another language to learn.

Check out the grin on the reptile, at the bottom right!
Check out the grin on the reptile, at the bottom right!

My progress with my new mystery language is erratic but very tangible.  While I am nowhere near fluency yet (I just passed the 6% fluency checkpoint!), I have learned an incredible amount in only a few days.  With no books and no charts to memorize, I am learning more organically…almost like a child learns a new language.  It’s scary, because I usually learn by note-taking and then studying what I’ve written.  Somehow, much of what I’m seeing and hearing is actually sticking with me, even though I am not writing it down.   This forces you to learn intuitively and invent your own rules for the language:  it’s very hard at first but eventually you remember those rules better because they belong to you!

These are the globes that travel to the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm
These are the globes that travel to the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm

The cool part of using a program like Duolingo is that you can proceed at your own pace.  You can use it anywhere that you have Internet access.  It’s better to use it privately, so that you can hear the language (and speak it back into your computer), but you can still skip over those parts if you need to work silently.

Approaching the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm
Approaching the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm

Studies have shown that learning a completely new language is an excellent way to keep one’s brain from deteriorating with age.  I’m excited to report that it can also be fun.   Over the next couple of weeks, I will find out if it can be useful too!

I promise that my next post will really be from my mystery destination.  In the meantime, here are some more pictures from our 2012 visit to Stockholm, Sweden.

Travel Flashback: Stockholm (August 17, 2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Another day, another blitz of the various attractions covered by the Stockholm Card!

We started off by visiting the Vasa ship.   The Vasa was a huge, overly ornamental and excessively armed ship that was launched in Stockholm with much fanfare in 1628.  Alas, with all of the bells and whistles, the engineers failed to take certain things into consideration.  Foremost among those considerations:  would it float?  Sadly, it did not even make it out of the harbour and sunk ingloriously after a mere 20 minutes.

The Vasa ship
The Vasa ship

However, the ship was magically preserved over the centuries at the bottom of the harbour until it was rediscovered in 1956 and finally exhumed in 1961.  Some restoration was obviously required but the ship now stands proudly in its own museum in downtown Stockholm.   While the environment is strictly controlled and does not lend itself well to photography, it was still fascinating to see the 17th century version of the Titanic.  It’s much more impressive, and perplexing, when you see it in person.

A couple of lemurs at Stockholm's Skansen open-air museum
A couple of lemurs at Stockholm’s Skansen open-air museum

Our next stop was Skansen – the “original” open-air folk museum after which many others are modelled (and sometimes even named).    Alas, we were starting to grow a little weary of museums by this time and we decided to focus on Skansen’s small zoo rather than the other elements.

This lemur crossed the line and was subsequently sprayed
This lemur crossed the line and was subsequently sprayed

We spent a fair bit of time “walking among the lemurs”:  there is a large area that you can walk through with about 20 of these odd creatures also wandering around.  They don’t harm humans but aren’t supposed to jump on your back because it could easily become a habit for them.  If they do jump on your back, a staff member will come running out and spray them with water:  the lemurs don’t like that!  It was strange to be hanging out with these creatures from Madagascar; we didn’t quite trust them but they also didn’t seem to be very dangerous.

Some of Skansen's primates
Some of Skansen’s primates

After observing the primates for a while (they all seemed to have those nasty-looking red behinds), we visited some of the indoor enclosures.  We saw rare Cuban crocodiles there, accompanied by this text:  “Since there is an embargo from American authorities regarding Cuban goods, crocodiles born in Cuba are not allowed into the U.S.A.  They are regarded as communistic crocodiles, in the eyes of American authorities.  On the other hand, if they are born in Sweden, they are allowed [and this is] the only way for American zoos to acquire this rare crocodile.”  I wonder if this still applies, given the recent thawing in relations between Havana and Washington?  You can read more about these crocodiles here: I certainly didn’t realize that they were kept in a Russian cosmonaut’s apartment for a while!

Is this a communist crocodile?
Is this crocodile a communist?

As this was our last full day in Stockholm, I pressed onward and visited the Ericsson Globe Arena.  This is a famous globe-shaped sports arena towering 130 metres above Stockholm. I mention the height because I did not go inside the arena:  I rode a globe-shaped “elevator” on an external track to the top!   This is definitely not recommended if you are prone to vertigo but it was a nifty way to see Stockholm from a completely different perspective.   Once again, the Stockholm Card covered the admission cost.

The Skyview ride to the top of the world's largest spherical building: the Ericsson Globe
The Skyview ride to the top of the world’s largest spherical building: the Ericsson Globe Arena

While I’ve got more pictures from Stockholm to share, I’m going to keep them in reserve for now.  The next blog post you see will be from our 2016 journey to the Southern Hemisphere.  Stay tuned to find out what I’ve been hinting about for the past couple of months!

Travel Flashback: Stockholm (August 16, 2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

On our first day in Stockholm, we had an unforgettable experience at an international soccer game between Sweden and Brazil.  However, we also found a lot of other things to like about Sweden’s capital city.  Today’s post is about our second day in Stockholm.

The National Museum in Stockholm (as seen on our boat tour)
The National Museum in Stockholm (as seen on our boat tour)

Stockholm offers a multi-day combination tourist pass called the Stockholm Card that includes all public transit, museums and a host of other attractions.  We easily made it pay for itself, although we raced around at a blistering pace.  We began with a tour of the Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet), the Postmuseum and a boat tour of the downtown area.    The Palace was appropriately huge and opulent; the Postmuseum included oddities such as a realistic portrait of a Swedish postal director from the early 1900s that was made entirely from postage stamps!  It was one of the oddest things I’ve ever seen:  kind of like a mosaic but using stamps instead of stones or pieces of glass.

The streets are very narrow in Gamla Stan (the old town) area of Stockholm
The streets are very narrow in Gamla Stan (the old town) area of Stockholm

The boat tour turned out to be rather brief (it was free, after all) but it was still nice to see Stockholm from another perspective.  It is built on 14 islands and, as you’ll see from my next blog post, has quite a fascinating naval history.

Mårten Trotzigs gränd - the narrowest street in Sweden
Mårten Trotzigs gränd – the narrowest street in Sweden

We worked up quite an appetite navigating the narrow streets of Gamla stan (the oldest part of Stockholm) and had a fun outdoor lunch at one of the local restaurants.  Downtown restaurants generally have a lunch special (called “Dagens rätt“) with a price corresponding to the local “lunch allowance”, so we took the opportunity to have some Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce.  In the afternoon, we went to the Nobel Museum [“Nobelmuseet“].  This was important for us to see but the last “site” of the  day was, to our surprise, even more impressive.

One of the sculptures at Millesgården in Stockholm
One of the sculptures at Millesgården in Stockholm

Carl Milles was a sculptor who created most of his enduring works in the first half of the 20th century.  His home overlooked downtown Stockholm and was turned into a museum after his death.  The  home/museum is interesting (it looks as it did during Milles’ lifetime), but almost all of his major works are outside.  The complex is called Millesgården.

Another one of the ethereal sculptures at Millesgården
Another one of the ethereal sculptures at Millesgården

While he created all kinds of sculptures, Milles is best known for those that appear to defy gravity and even take flight.  You can see a few of them here, as well as a very small portion of the extensively landscaped grounds overlooking Stockholm.

More of Millesgården, with some of downtown Stockholm in the background
More of Millesgården, with some of downtown Stockholm in the background

Millesgården is relatively difficult to find, if you are based in the downtown area, but it is well worth the effort if you would like to have an unconventional art experience.  While I did my best to capture them in my photographs, the sculptures are even more impressive when observed in situ.  It turned out to be one of our favourite stops on our whirlwind cultural tour of Stockholm.

Stay tuned for the highly unusual next day in Stockholm: who would have thought there would be an element of Madagascar to our visit?

Travel Flashback: More from the Road in Morocco (1996-1997)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My visit to Morocco involved quite a road trip.  After visiting Casablanca, Safi, Marrakech and the Oukaïmeden ski resort, we drove through the sparsely settled interior to my friends’ place in Ifrane.  Ifrane is an atypical Moroccan town:  it was developed as a winter sports resort and is home to a proportionately very large expatriate population.   One of the reasons is the modern Al-Akhawayn University:  you can see it in the picture at the top of this post.

Wow! It's Oued Ouaoumana!
Wow! It’s Oued Ouaoumana!

The long journey from Oukaïmeden to Ifrane contained two of my most vivid memories of Morocco:  the discovery of a watercourse called “Oued Ouaoumana” and my very first encounter with “kefta”.  The watercourse’s name highlights the fact that “W” is not a letter that occurs very often in French (the colonial language of Morocco).  As for kefta…

Before the kefta caper, we had to deal with this unexplained detour...
Before the kefta caper, we had to deal with this unexplained detour…

We had been on the road for quite a while and we were all getting quite hungry.  However, as we were definitely off the tourist trail, dining options were extremely limited.  Near the town of Beni Mellal, we found a roadside stall (not even a shack) that appeared to be patronized by truck drivers.  My friend told me that they served kefta – something I had never heard of before.    He ordered some for me, explaining that they take ground raw meat and serve it in a kind of pita.

The petrol district in the town of Ifrane, Morocco
The gas station district in Ifrane, Morocco

I felt myself go very pale.  I was starving but I had never been much of a red meat eater.  The prospect of eating it raw from this remote, ramshackle and unrefrigerated roadside stall made me very uneasy.  We were still several hours from Ifrane – wasn’t this asking for trouble?  This is precisely the kind of thing that all the travel books tell you not to do!  Upon receiving my order of kefta, I found out that my friend had neglected to tell me one very important fact:  they do in fact cook the meat before putting it in the pita.   I don’t think I have ever felt so relieved.  It tasted good, too.

A view of downtown Casablanca, Morocco, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background
A view of downtown Casablanca, Morocco, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background

My trip to Morocco reinforced just how much variation (from palm trees to ski resorts!) there can be within a country, even one that is relatively small by Canadian standards.  And Morocco, of course, is only one small part of a very large and diverse continent that straddles both the northern and southern hemispheres.  Speaking of the southern hemisphere...it’s almost time to go!  Did I mention that I might do some skiing this summer?

Travel Flashback: Marrakech, Morocco (1996)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The above photo was indeed taken on the “Road to Marrakesh”; we drove to the famous Red City after shaking off my jet lag in the coastal city of Safi.  This was my first and so far only time in Africa; Marrakech (which is the local French spelling) was the first time that I felt like I was close to a desert.

The Vegetable Souq in the old part of Marrakech, Morocco
The Vegetable Souq in the old part of Marrakech, Morocco

We may have been relatively close to the desert, but it was still cold.  We were all wearing winter costs; in fact, after Marrakech, we would go skiing in the Atlas Mountains at Oukaïmeden.  Still, despite the cool late December temperatures, I also saw my first camel on the outskirts of Marrakech.

Dinner at Stall 26, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco
Dinner at Stall 26, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco

I’ve never seen anything like the Djemaa-el-Fna before.  It’s a huge square on the edge of the old city and is impressive during the day…but it was like another world altogether in the evening.   There is sensory overload, with what seems like a massive carnival every day.  There were ornately dressed water sellers, traveling musicians, hawkers of various kinds…we even saw snake charmers!  It was quite cosmopolitan here, with people from all over Northern Africa, including the nomadic Tuareg (also known as the “Blue People”, as the indigo pigment from their clothing often stains their skin blue).  We really felt like we were on an ancient trade route.

Very freshly squeezed orange juice at Stall 60, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco
Very freshly squeezed orange juice at Stall 60, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco

We took full advantage of the atmospherics and ate freshly prepared street food at the market stalls.  I had some kind of couscous for dinner at Stall 26 but I remember Stall 60 even better.  Here, I had freshly squeezed orange juice from local oranges…it was, without question, the best orange juice I have ever had.   There is definitely something to be said for eating and drinking locally!

My friends with our guide "Hajj", in Marrakech, Morocco
My friends with our guide “Hajj”, in Marrakech, Morocco

As Marrakech attracts a lot of travellers and Morocco had rather high unemployment at the time, anybody who looked like a tourist was persistently accosted upon nearing the old city.  They didn’t want to harm us…they just wanted to be our guide.  It was often a rather hard-sell approach.  The old city is very confusing and it is a good idea to have somebody with you, at least for your first trip inside.  Of course, they are motivated to bring you to certain shops where they will get a commission if you buy something, but having a guide also stops other potential guides from soliciting your business.

Inside the Medersa in Marrakech, Morocco
Inside the Medersa in Marrakech, Morocco

To avoid making a bad decision, we hired a trusted and licensed guide through our hotel.  “Hajj” took us through various souqs and made sure we got back to our hotel safely.  We went back to Djemaa-el-Fna on our own later and spent quite a bit of time at the perimeter politely declining assistance.  Djemaa-el-Fna itself is not difficult to get around so it wasn’t necessary to have a guide for that.  Once we were inside the square, the soliciting stopped.

I’ll have one more post on Morocco soon.  As for the vague clues I gave in my previous blog post about our summer travel destination, I can give one more:  we are not going to the Olympics!

Playing the Guessing Game

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I don’t know how much fun it is for readers of this blog, but I personally really enjoy dropping vague hints about my upcoming travels and then suddenly saying something like “I’m in Sarajevo!” when I’ve finally arrived in my surprise destination.  I haven’t been able to do that for a while, as I talked about my recent trip to Italy far in advance (withholding only the details about the Cinque Terre part until I actually arrived there).

The Sault Memorial Gardens - where Wayne Gretzky played his junior hockey
The Sault Memorial Gardens – where Wayne Gretzky played his junior hockey

However, it’s finally time to play that game again! So far, all I’ve said about this summer’s trip is that it will be in the Southern Hemisphere. Well, that’s a pretty big place. Here are some more clues to tantalize and infuriate…

1. We will be visiting at least two countries (and might make a quick trip to a third).
2. We have not been to any of these countries before (alone or together).
3. I won’t need any special paperwork (or incur any expense) to cross the border between these two countries…but most readers of this blog would.
4. On this blog, I once mentioned that someday I might want to visit these two countries for food reasons.

The Algoma Courthouse in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
The Algoma Courthouse in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

Well, to me, it is now blindingly obvious where we are going!   It’s definitely a bucket list trip for me, as I have been accumulating books about one of these countries for many years but the timing just hasn’t been right until now.

The photos in today’s post are vintage prints from the summer of 1999.  Two of the pictures are from the northern Ontario city of Sault Ste. Marie.  It’s not a place that typically gathers a lot of tourist attention (and 1999 was my one and only visit)…so here’s a tip of the hat to the city we call “The Soo”!

A raccoon wreaking havoc in a tree beside my parents' house
A raccoon wreaking havoc in a tree beside my parents’ house

Sadly, the Sault Memorial Gardens building was demolished in 2006.  At the time, it was the second oldest building in the Ontario Hockey League.  Other than being Wayne Gretzky’s home arena when he played in the OHL, it also hosted concerts by a number of famous musicians, including Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, and Roy Orbison.    As far as I can tell, the Algoma Courthouse is still standing.

Coming up soon: more on Morocco, some travel planning thoughts, and (eventually) the Big Reveal!

Travel Flashback: Roman Ruins in…Morocco! (1997)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In addition to skiing in Morocco, I also had the equally unexpected opportunity to visit Roman ruins while there.

The ruined city of Volubilis is located about 33 km from the  Moroccan city of Meknès and within an hour’s walk of the town of Moulay Idriss.  Volubilis was one of the most remote outposts of the Roman Empire and was at its prime in the second and third centuries (A.D.).

The "Capitol" of Volubilis, as seen from the Basilica
The “Capitol” of Volubilis, as seen from the Basilica

In stark contrast to most Roman ruins in Europe, Volubilis was virtually unvisited by tourists.  Perhaps it was the time of year, but we had the place almost to ourselves.  And it was big:  not quite as big as Ostia Antica perhaps, but it definitely had more of the large, ornate public buildings that we associate with the Roman Empire at its peak.

Picnicking among the ruins at Volubilis, Morocco
Picnicking among the ruins at Volubilis, Morocco

Unlike Ostia Antica (and probably Pompeii), there were very few tourist services at Volubilis.  We came prepared, however, with a picnic consisting largely of fresh bread, olives and mineral water.  We ate right in the ruins themselves:  other than prohibitions against walking on the mosaics, I don’t recall any parts being closed off to visitors.  It was quite special to eat food that the ancient Romans themselves likely ate at that very spot nearly 2,000 years ago.

In front of the Basilica at Volubilis, Morocco. This photo has not yet graced the cover of a best-selling album.
In front of the Basilica at Volubilis, Morocco. This photo has not yet graced the cover of a best-selling album.

As my friend and I were in a band, we took a number of pictures with a view to turning them into album covers some day.   Needless to say, these were not always sombre views reflecting on the decline of an ancient empire.  However, a few songs (notably the cult classic “I am Volubilis”) did eventually result from our visit.

I quite enjoyed the less-visited parts of Morocco.  I didn’t feel very comfortable in the big city of Casablanca (which is definitely nothing like the movie of the same name) but smaller places like Azrou and Safi were very welcoming.   I’ll dig through my archives to find some more (non-digital) photos of Morocco and share more of my recollections from this most interesting destination.

Here, you can see some of the mosaics (completely exposed to the elements) of Volubilis.
Here, you can see some of the mosaics (completely exposed to the elements) of Volubilis.

Before signing off, I just have to share something that I read this week in a rather widely-read travel magazine.  A very brief article on Martha’s Vineyard (in the New England region of the U.S.) purported to provide “some packing inspiration for a classic New England  getaway”.   Believe it or not, the packing list included Hermes shorts ($3,775), Van Cleef and Arpels earrings ($7,250), Tiffany & Co. bracelets ($36,000 and $30,000), and a Dolce & Gabbana handbag ($3,695).  All prices are in U.S. dollars.

The Casablanca Voyageurs railway station on January 6, 1997
The Casablanca Voyageurs railway station on January 6, 1997

With articles like these, no wonder people think traveling is too expensive for them!   Unfortunately, a lot of travel writing is like that.  Don’t be scared off by such recommendations:  they won’t make your trip any better…and they will likely make you more vulnerable to theft.