All posts by pierrev

How to Make Travel Last Forever

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I recently spent an evening looking back at my blog posts from my self-guided music tour of England in November of 2014.  As I read the posts, two related thoughts came to mind. The first one: What a cool trip!  The second one:  I’m so glad I wrote it all down!

Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire
Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire

That, in a nutshell, is how to make travel last forever. It goes without saying that you should enjoy your travels and do things that interest you.  However, writing down my thoughts as I went along helped me to later relive those moments with more than just a vague feeling of “that was fun”.

Thayers Inn in Littleton, New Hampshire. We stayed in this very historic (and rustic) hotel.
Thayers Inn in Littleton, New Hampshire. We stayed in this very historic (and rustic) hotel.

It’s easy to take lots of pictures; in fact, I have more pictures (prints and electronic) than I know what to do with.  Taking that little bit of extra time to record your impressions while they are still fresh in your mind will give the photos context and will make the memories yours alone…rather than just another snapshot that you could find in a million places on the Internet.

Downtown St. Johnsbury, Vermont, U.S.A.
Downtown St. Johnsbury, Vermont, U.S.A.

In 2014, I did most of my writing during travel “down times”: on bus and train rides, in airports, in restaurants (I was mostly traveling solo and it made waiting for food a lot easier), and when attractions were closed.   On busy days, it was often in the form of point-form notes.  If I at least wrote down a few key words, it would be a lot easier to fill in the gaps later when I had more time.

Inexplicably lopsided view of the state Capitol building in Montpelier, Vermont, U.S.A.
Not every photograph is brilliant:  witness this Inexplicably lopsided view of the state Capitol building in Montpelier, Vermont, U.S.A.

Of course, you don’t need to record your thoughts in the form of a blog.  I kept written journals during many of my pre-2014 trips and then used the journals to prepare captions after I made prints of my photos and put them into photo albums.   I also kept a journal during my 2014 travels, although not on every trip.  I was busier on the group tours and I simply didn’t have the time to both blog and write a journal.

Lake Champlain, Vermont, U.S.A.
Lake Champlain, Vermont, U.S.A.

If you don’t keep a contemporaneous record, you end up facing the situation I have with our 2009 drive home from Nova Scotia through the Northeastern United States:  there are lots of interesting pictures from places we’d never seen before (and may never see again), but the passage of time has dimmed their significance and some of them can no longer be associated with a particular place.  I know the photo at the top of this post is somewhere in northeastern Vermont…but that’s all.

Paul Bunyan statue in Rumford, Maine, U.S.A. Apparently, there is now a small statue of Babe the Blue Ox here too!
Paul Bunyan statue in Rumford, Maine, U.S.A. Apparently, there is now a small statue of Babe the Blue Ox here too!

All of the pictures in today’s post are from that trip.  I wish I could prepare a meaningful narrative about them but my specific recollections are very few.  For example,  I still remember that Bangor, Maine is Stephen King’s hometown and that Littleton, New Hampshire is a very quaint place for an overnight stopover.  We stayed in a positively ancient hotel there and visited what had to be one of the world’s largest candy stores.  I also suspect that there were not a whole lot of specific sights in east-central Maine…but maybe that’s just because we did a lot of driving that day and accordingly we had stopped “seeing”?  It would be a lot easier to say, if I had kept a journal.

Stay tuned for more flashbacks from unique northern destinations!

Small Town Ontario, Part 2

(Marlbank, Ontario, Canada)

On our trip to Cobourg, we took the scenic route to get home. What normally takes about 95 minutes of driving ended up taking the better part of the day. However, it was first time for us on most of the roads…and we even visited some communities that we had never seen before.

I’ve called this article “Part 2” because I wrote another post about small towns back in the spring of this year.  While nearly 6 months have passed since then, I’m pleased to report that our travel philosophy appears to be more or less the same:  the best parts were when we found something truly unique to the area.  We ate local food, went to local stores, and didn’t set foot in a single mall.

Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth
Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth

The drive on Highway 45 northeast from Cobourg was very scenic.  It seemed like the combination of rolling hills and autumn colours got better with each turn, so we drove by a couple of conservation areas without stopping.  We figured there would soon be an even better place to get out and explore in the crisp fall air.  Alas, we waited too long.   The terrain suddenly became more agricultural and lacked the scenic “oomph” we saw between Baltimore and Fenella.   I have no pictures of this segment…only memories.

After a quick stop in Hastings, we ended up in Warkworth.  To Kingstonians, this small village is known primarily as the home of another penitentiary.  However, much to our surprise, it has also attracted a significant number of artists and specialty shops.

Downtown Warkworth, Ontario
Downtown Warkworth, Ontario

We stumbled upon a true cottage industry:  a shortbread cookie bakery where we found an enthusiastic staff stuffing cookies into bags and parcels.  We picked up a couple of bags for later consumption and headed towards our intended lunch destination of Campbellford.  First, however, we passed a ramshackle barn in the hamlet of Meyersburg that hosted a bustling flea market.   Who would have expected an Eastern European deli to be set up in there and selling their own extremely spicy pepperoni sticks?

View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario
View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario

Campbellford, like Hastings, is a busy village located on the Trent-Severn Waterway.  We seriously underestimated the size of our meals at the Riverview Restaurant:  after such a massive pulled pork sandwich for lunch, I didn’t really need to eat dinner.  They offered typical diner food, with a daily special of liver and onions and old-fashioned desserts such as rice pudding and jello.

From Campbellford, we drove across sparsely settled countryside to the village of Tweed.  Linked over the years to some post-1977 sightings of Elvis Presley, it seemed to shut down on this Sunday afternoon.   After a brief stop, during which we neither saw nor heard anyone remotely resembling Elvis, we drove down a worryingly isolated and increasingly rough road that finally brought us to the village of Marlbank.

The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario
The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario

Marlbank was at one point a bustling place, but it was bypassed by the provincial highway system and now it appears to have been frozen in the early 20th century.   Non-threatening dogs wandered the narrow streets and vehicles were few and far between.   There were some riveting houses (see photo at the top of this post- it’s for sale!), however, and we did eventually come to a street lined with cars.  The local tavern was holding square dancing lessons and it looked like the place was full.  Maybe this was why Tweed shut down on Sunday afternoon!

As I mentioned in my previous post, we expect to return to the Cobourg area next fall.  In addition to the vintage film festival and perhaps a concert, we will also have some autumn walking to do!

A special evening in Cobourg

(Cobourg, Ontario, Canada)

We went for a road trip this weekend and decided to stay overnight in Cobourg, Ontario…a town located almost 100 miles west of Kingston. This is just a bit too far to properly visit on a day-trip, but perhaps not far enough for a weekend trip. Beyond “it seemed like a nice place to explore, the last time we passed through”, not a lot of thought went into our choice.

We arrived to mid-afternoon rain and quickly visited the shops and indoor sights we wanted to see. We took a look at the historic Victoria Hall concert venue, located in a beautiful old stone building on Cobourg’s main street, and decided that it would be nice to attend a concert there some day.

Cobourg's Victoria Hall at night
Cobourg’s Victoria Hall at night

As the drizzly weather continued, we decided to drive on to the nearby town of Port Hope to do some more shopping and indoor sightseeing. Port Hope has a compact but attractive downtown core and we made a point of visiting its restored “golden age of cinema” Capitol Theatre.

Inside the Capitol, we discovered that Port Hope (and Cobourg) were hosting the Vintage Film Festival that very weekend. They were showing some seriously old movies, including one silent movie on Sunday morning from 1917 that would feature a live piano accompanist! We resolved to return in the morning for that unique experience, if at all possible.

Port Hope's historic Capitol Theatre
Port Hope’s historic Capitol Theatre

As we trudged on through the rain, I saw a poster for an upcoming concert:  “Tribute to The Last Waltz”.  I thought this would be interesting, as it featured a large band of well-known professional Canadian musicians recreating The Band’s legendary 1976 farewell concert.  That concert was made into a movie by Martin Scorsese and also received a triple-album release on vinyl.  In addition to music by The Band, that particular concert also featured performances by The Band with Van Morrison, Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Dr. John, Muddy Waters, Eric Clapton, Ringo Starr and many others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

Curious, we looked a little closer at the poster.  The concert was going to be in Cobourg’s Victoria Hall!  Tonight!   Should we go?  Yes!  We raced back to Cobourg in search of tickets.  It was a wild goose chase, as stores were closing and the concert appeared to be sold out.  We actually tracked down the promoter himself and found out that two ticketholders *might* not be able to attend.  At one minute before showtime, it was confirmed that there would be exactly two unused tickets.  We were in!  Even better, there were two empty seats in the 3rd row, just a few feet from the stage!

Jerome Levon Avis' drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm
Jerome Levon Avis’ drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm

The concert featured a 9-piece house band (including a 4-piece horn section), plus various special guests…just like the original Last Waltz.  The band’s drummer, Jerome Levon Avis, was the godson of Levon Helm – who was the drummer for The Band!  Other musicians included members of famous bands such as Lighthouse and Blood, Sweat & Tears.

Writing about music is not an easy thing to do.  How do you convey the chill down your spine when a Van Morrison sound-alike has a swinging band and horn section behind him?  When that same band nails a soulful classic by The Band and the whole theatre is singing along like a gospel choir?   It was like that for almost the entire 3-hour concert.  Highlights for us included Bob Dylan’s “I Shall Be Released” and “Like A Rolling Stone”, Van Morrison’s “Caravan”, Dr. John’s “Such A Night” and every one of our favourite songs by The Band:  “The Weight”, “Up on Cripple Creek”, and “The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down”,  among others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

As we left the theatre, we had all of these classic songs (and more) replaying themselves over and over in our heads.  It was plainly obvious that we weren’t the only ones.  Thanks to the kindness of strangers in Cobourg, we had a completely unexpected and amazing experience (“Such A Night”, indeed!) on what was otherwise a dreary, rainy evening.

We didn’t make it to the piano-accompanied silent film screening in the morning…but the film festival is an annual event and we made a mental note to visit Port Hope and Cobourg again next fall.

Fun with Food in Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market district

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

Even though I lived in Toronto for three years in the early 1990s, I cannot claim to have seen all the city had to offer.  In particular, for reasons that are unclear, I never made it to St. Lawrence Market while I was living there.  Given its proximity to Union Station, I have managed to stop by on a couple of recent visits to Toronto.  If you are at all interested in “specialty foods”, I think it is well worth a visit.

Jarvis Street, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto
The corner of Jarvis and King Streets, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto

While the Market clears out as its 7:00 p.m. closing time approaches (that’s when I took the photo at the top of this post), it is extremely busy during the day.  Some of this is tourist traffic but there is still quite a local presence:  tourists generally aren’t showing up at the 7:00 a.m. opening.   Weekends are particularly busy and you may be tempted to give it a pass in the late morning or early afternoon.

I was in search of unusual cheese on this visit.  One of the vendors had lengthy descriptions of its imported offerings and something called “Parrano” caught my eye.  One of its slogans is “the Dutch cheese that thinks it is Italian”, so I asked for a sample.  Indeed, as advertised, it combines the texture of Gouda with the taste of Reggiano Parmigiano…I quickly declared it my new favourite cheese and picked up a wedge to bring home.

"G For Gelato" on Jarvis Street in Toronto
“G For Gelato” on Jarvis Street in Toronto

I also picked up some red Cerignola olives from one of the other vendors.  These are very large and mild-tasting olives but their radiant red colour makes them an interesting, albeit not essential, olive for snacking.

There has been a considerable amount of recent development in the Market neighbourhood.  While not all of it appeals to me, there was one restaurant that I wanted to try:  the innocuously-named “G for Gelato”, specializing in pizza and gelato.  These are two very important foods and I wanted to find answers to two burning questions:  did it live up to its billing as having Toronto’s best gelato?  And did its pizza also attain the heights suggested by its many positive on-line reviews?

My "Prosciutto Contadina" pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)
My “Prosciutto Contadina” pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)

The gelato was excellent.  It’s made on site so it wasn’t cheap…but neither was it extortionate.  I tried two scoops (Dark Chocolate Whiskey and Amaretto DiSaronno) in a cup and I’d have to agree that this was the best gelato I’ve had in Toronto, if not Canada.  There were about 30 flavours and they all were artfully presented.

Although we had intended to have gelato the night before when we had dinner at the same restaurant, our pizzas were quite substantial and we didn’t want to stuff ourselves before the concert.  The pizzas were also very good – certainly in the first tier, with top-quality and well-matched toppings.  Prices were comparable to other Toronto restaurants  but “G is for Gelato” includes taxes in its price.

Friday night in downtown Kingston
Friday night in downtown Kingston

We will definitely return here for more gelato…and, if it is at the right time of day, we will sit down for a no-nonsense but high-quality Italian meal.   Between “G For Gelato” and “Jumbo Empanadas” in the Kensington Market, I always look forward to eating in downtown Toronto!

We expect to go on another road trip next week – stay tuned!

Stevie Wonder in Concert

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

There was a lot of musical synchronicity over the past week.  I wrote about seeing Paul McCartney in concert, received a vinyl copy of McCartney’s remixed “Tug of War” album (featuring two duets with Stevie Wonder), and then went on a blitz of a road trip to see Stevie Wonder perform live in Toronto.

This wasn’t just a “greatest hits” concert:  Stevie was going to perform his entire 1976 magnum opus “Songs in the Key of Life”.  Widely considered to be one of the best albums ever made, despite an extended running length of almost two hours, it spawned both hit singles and “deep cuts” that have had a profound influence on popular music.   Almost everybody knows songs such as “Sir Duke“, “I Wish“, “Isn’t She Lovely” and “Pastime Paradise”…at least by tune, if not by name.

IMG_7275Stevie went onstage at 8:15 p.m. and it was clear that his voice had not suffered over the years.  He also had a huge 36-person band, including a string section, a horn section, a choir, multiple drummers and percussionists and at least 6 backing vocalists.  Songs such as “Village Ghetto Land” were improved from the album as they featured live (rather than synthesized) strings.  Special guests included April Ellington, daughter of…Duke Ellington!  This was a big, big show.

For me, the highlights came fast and furious with back-to-back performances of “Sir Duke” and “I Wish”.  “Sir Duke”, in particular, benefited hugely from the large horn section.  “I Wish”, with its prominent bass, fared slightly less well due to some low-end sound issues but was still memorable.  The low-end issues became rather distracting right before and after the 20-minute intermission but thankfully resolved before too much damage had been done.

IMG_7283While the point of the concert was to play the entire “Songs in the Key of Life” album in order, Stevie did embark on a few tangents. In the first set, he challenged his backing vocalists to match his singing gymnastics solo and without any accompaniment. They all passed the test with flying colours.

In the second set, Stevie played “Ngiculela-Es Una Historia-I Am Singing” with an unusual zither-like instrument called a “harpejji”.   After it was over, he started playing what sounded to me like the chords to John Lennon’s “Imagine” on the harpejji.  He then said that it was his brother’s birthday, to which the audience responded with polite applause.  But it also occurred to me, as someone who probably knows an unhealthy amount of Beatles trivia, that this precise day would have been John Lennon’s 75th birthday.

Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert
Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert

Sure enough, Stevie then said that he wanted to play “Imagine” for his brother, John Lennon.  This definitely wasn’t in the script.  He began playing the song and asked for audience help partway through the song.  It soon became clear why:  he began crying and was unable to sing an extended portion of the lyric.  He recovered somewhat, but wiped away a lot of tears (without apology) before he could continue with the next song.   A lengthy standing ovation ensued and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.

Concerts are obviously big business and Stevie is not a poor man.  But he is still a sensitive man and, 35 years after Lennon’s death, Stevie is still affected by his murder.  He urged the audience to do what they could to prevent senseless violence and intolerance.

Toronto at midnight
Toronto at midnight

Stevie then resumed performing the rest of his famous album with renewed vigour and finished it about 3 hours after the concert began.  He then assumed his alter-ego of “DJ Tick Tick Boom” for the encore and it is difficult to explain exactly what happened next.  To preserve the surprise, I’ll just say that he played snippets of some disco classics, abbreviated versions of a few of his other hits, and finished with a scorching version of “Superstition”  that made full use of the entire band (again with a memorable brass performance).  It was almost midnight when the concert finally ended; Stevie looked like he had thoroughly enjoyed sharing his music with us.

While there were plenty of Stevie Wonder classics that weren’t played (“Signed, Sealed, Delivered…I’m Yours” is one that I would have liked to hear), there simply would not have been enough time.   As with Paul McCartney’s 2009 concert in Halifax, we felt like we were witnessing a part of history.   We’re looking forward to reliving the experience by playing “Songs in the Key of Life” when we get home!

Road Trip to see Paul McCartney in Nova Scotia (2009)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In about one week’s time, we are going to check off another item on our musical bucket lists.  Music is very subjective, of course, but I think the magnitude of this upcoming concert is similar to our evening with former Beatle Paul McCartney in Halifax, Nova Scotia back in July of 2009.

Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)
Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)

Driving to Nova Scotia from Ontario does not enjoy a great reputation. Yes, there were some long stretches of tedium. However, we were pleasantly surprised by our overnight stay in Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec, where we found an attractive downtown core with excellent food…and even bought a pair of Helly Hansen (see my previous post) shorts!

Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec
Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec

Next up was a long drive through New Brunswick. We had big plans for Fredericton but the legislature building was closed for renovations and the downtown generally seemed closed when we arrived late in the afternoon.  We pressed on to the tiny town of Sackville, home of Mount Allison University, to spend our second night on the road.   We stayed in a college residence: an excellent accommodation option in the summer months.  We also felt compelled to visit Mel’s Tea Room:  the jukebox, stools and menu were all in accordance with our expectations.

Mel's Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick
Mel’s Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick

Early the next day, we crossed the border into Nova Scotia.  It was the day of the concert so we didn’t have much time to catch up with our friends before heading to the show.

So what is a Paul McCartney concert like?  Unlike his 1970s concerts with Wings, Paul’s latter-day concerts fully embrace his Beatle past.  It is truly remarkable to hear so many Beatles classics sung by the man who actually wrote them.  You get a feeling that you are a part of history:  many of these songs will be considered the “Classical Music of the 20th Century”.

Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick
Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick

However, and this may seem like sacrilege to some, Paul has been emphasizing his Beatles hits (and his essentially solo “Band on the Run” album) in concert for so long now that I sometimes found myself wishing that he would skip some of the more overexposed or less-melodic songs.    “Paperback Writer” and “Get Back”?  Er, heard those the last time, thanks…don’t really need to hear them again.   On the other hand, I certainly can’t find fault with songs like the enormously popular “Hey Jude” and it was great to hear energetic versions of only slightly-less familiar tracks like “All My Loving” and “I Saw Her Standing There”.   These songs still sound fresh and brilliant after half a century, and they weren’t even singles in most of the world!

Welcome to Nova Scotia!
Welcome to Nova Scotia!

So, while I would have liked to have heard a few more surprise selections from his solo work (“No More Lonely Nights”, for example, was a huge hit and has a great tune to boot), it is a very minor quibble.  To be fair, I also have seen Paul McCartney perform live before and have seen several of his concert videos.  The bottom line is that his concerts are about three hours in length, immaculately performed, and feature 95% of the songs that casual fans will want to hear.

McCartney still clearly loves performing and his band looks equally thrilled to be there.  I’ve never seen so many people be so happy at a concert from beginning to end.  This “shared experience” makes it easy to understand why many reviewers employ quasi-religious language when describing McCartney shows.  Tickets aren’t cheap but, if you’re a fan, I have no hesitation in recommending these concerts.

Things get a little chaotic during "Live and Let Die"
Things get a little chaotic during “Live and Let Die”

After all that, you may be wondering who we’re seeing next week.  It’s another living legend whose story is every bit as compelling as (and perhaps more so than) Paul McCartney’s.  Feel free to guess…or stay tuned for my report in about a week’s time!

Travel Flashback: Bergen, Norway (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m a big believer in serendipitous travel.  When we were researching our 2010 trip to Norway, we thought it would be nice to see the Atlantic coast of Norway.  At the same time, it seemed like a waste of time to travel out to the coast from Oslo…and then back again to Oslo for the flight home.  It turned out that Icelandair served a number of Norwegian cities from Reykjavik…so we were able to book a flight into Bergen and then out of Oslo at no extra cost.  We didn’t know much about Bergen but figured that there must be something worth seeing.

As it turns out, there was plenty to see.  We quickly learned that Bergen was one of the major Hanseatic League cities:  a Germanic trading organization that linked the Baltic States, Scandinavia, Germany and Poland.  Of course, there was no united “Germany” yet, but German was definitely the language of commerce.

Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen
Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen

The historic Bryggen district, dominating Bergen’s waterfront, contains a large number of brightly coloured wooden buildings from the Hanseatic days.  We spent the better part of a day exploring the various museums embedded into the Bryggen buildings.  Everybody takes pictures of the exteriors but the dark interiors are equally fascinating.  And there is a lot of dried fish, too.

On our first evening in town, we took a gondola lift up to a park located high above Bergen’s harbour.   In just a few minutes we were hiking around a verdant wilderness, wondering whether there might be bears, and completely forgetting that we were in Norway’s second largest city.

One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront
One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront

Bergen is also a modern city and we spent some time shopping and visiting markets.  This was the summer right after the Vancouver Winter Olympics:  Norway’s men’s curling team had made a real splash at the Olympics with their outrageously colourful curling pants.  By the summer, however, the novelty had begun to wear off.   and we saw a lot of plaid curling pants for sale.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any that fit me.

A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen
A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen

While I was unsuccessful in the curling pants department, I did find a Helly Hansen rugby shirt (Helly Hansen being a famous Norwegian brand of sports & outdoor clothing) that was almost as striking.  To this day, it attracts cries of “Where’s Waldo?” whenever I wear it.  The shirt has turned out to be a nice souvenir that I’ll forever associate with Bergen.

As Bergen was the first city we’ve ever visited in Norway, we will also forever associate it with huge and unique breakfasts.  As the price of food in Norway was quite outrageous, we learned to take extreme advantage of the hotel’s smorgasbordesque breakfast and not eat again until dinner.

Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen
Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen

I suppose the amount of fish at breakfast was to be expected; this is, after all, a country with a huge fishing heritage.  Yet it was the cheese, of all things, that was most surprising.   For the first time, we ate brunost…or “brown cheese”.   Here’s a link to a Guardian article about it: from its orange-brown colour to its fudge-like texture to its surprising sweet and salty flavour, it is something else that I will never forget.  Just like some of my favourite Dutch treats, brunost does not seem to have caught on much outside its home country.

Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen
Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen

Bergen is a beautifully situated city and a great springboard for exploring the fjords.  If we make it to Norway again, we will focus on the Atlantic Coast…and it would be great to start with a return visit to this very livable place.

The Thrill of the Chase

(KIngston, Ontario, Canada)

As I mentioned in a recent post, the dates have been chosen and I am now deep into the “venue selection process” for this winter’s ski trip. It’s not on the same scale as planning an entire year’s worth of travel, but this is the most complicated travel problem I’ve faced for quite some time.  Today’s lengthy post, illustrated with some pictures from March of 2010, is all about figuring out when and where to ski.

Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)
Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)

There are usually about 6 of us, coming from 4 or 5 different countries (depending on the year) and two continents. Thanks to e-mail, this is not an insurmountable barrier.  However, while it is great to be in regular contact with my “ski posse”, it can sometimes still feel like herding cats when it is time to make a decision.  Not only are we in different time zones, but we all in different professions (with their own “seasons”) and our countries all have different “high seasons” for holidays.  In Canada, for example, there can be a lot of competition in the workplace for “March Break” vacations.

Geography, economics, and our own preferences dictate that the ski venue will be in Europe. We also like to discover new resorts, so we rarely say “let’s just go back to the same place as last year”. This is where things get really complicated.  Europe is a small continent but there is a huge amount of skiing.

Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)
Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)

The first consideration is the time of year.  February is traditionally the month for ski holidays  in Europe, so prices are often double what they might be in January or March.  As January is also the coldest month and high-altitude skiing means even colder temperatures, this means that we will generally ski in March.

Skiing in March rules out a lot of the lower-altitude resorts, as we need to be sure that the resort will have sufficient snow.  This means that we are more or less confined to the Alps.   This is not a terrible fate but it does rule out some interesting off-the-beaten-path possibilities.

The Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)
Skiing by the Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)

The next consideration is national price levels.  While we always stay in inexpensive accommodation, a strong currency and high standards of living can sometimes push even the cheapest accommodation out of reach.  Right now, pretty much everything in Switzerland is out of the question because of the very strong Swiss Franc.  It’s not just the hotel cost: we also have to consider the cost of lift passes, ski rental, food, and transportation to/from the resort.

As we enjoy exploring different pistes and most European bookings need to be for a week, the resort needs to be of a certain size to hold our interest.    We don’t want to ski the same slopes six days in a row.  This rules out all but the largest stand-alone resorts.  Generally, we are looking for a ski “region”, where a single pass gets you access to a variety of different resorts (ideally linked by pistes rather than by bus or train).  We try to avoid purpose-built resorts:  it’s much more interesting to ski in and around real Alpine villages.

3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia
3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia

Once we think we’ve found a region or resort,  we also need to consider our access to the ski lifts.  An otherwise perfect village 6 miles from the nearest lift does not work.  Ideally, we want something in the “middle” of the region that allows us to access all of the resorts covered by the weekly ski pass.

We also need to find accommodation for 6 unrelated people.  Ideally, this would be in 6 single rooms, although this is not always possible.  Most hotels don’t have many single rooms, as the economics favour putting more than one person in a room.   Also, many seemingly ideal hotels are booked a year or more in advance, either by tour groups or by returning skiers who have enjoyed the resort in the past.

Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance
Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance

We also need to eat!  One of the great attractions of European skiing is the (usually) excellent on-mountain and in-resort dining.  However, this is not always the case.  Evening dinners can be problematic:  after 8 hours of skiing, we don’t want to wander all over town trying to find a reasonably-priced place with good (local) food that has tables available and appeals to all 6 of us.  Lately, we’ve found that a well-chosen hotel offering half-board (with each day’s breakfast and dinner included) is a good solution to this problem.  But good-value accommodation and good food don’t always go hand-in-hand.

With all of these considerations, the initial stages of the search can be overwhelming.  Nobody wants to let the others down with a lousy venue or a proposal that not everyone can afford.  This year, I did have a small crisis at one point and wondered whether we should just go back to a “safe” resort that we’ve visited before.

More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia
More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia

However, after much research and some frustrating late nights at the keyboard, the chase appears to be coming to a successful conclusion.   It looks like we’ve found our 2016 ski region and we are down to a couple of hotels in 2 different resorts within that region.

This year’s destination is the cross-border Via Lattea (“Milky Way”) ski region in northwestern Italy and southeastern France.  This region hosted the skiing events for the 2006 Winter Olympics in Torino (Turin).  Whichever hotel we choose, we will indeed have quality accommodation in a large ski region (that most of us have never visited before) with great food, interesting local culture and sights, good access to lifts, and very reasonable prices.   While it was a challenge at the time, it is great to know that the long hours of preparation will not be in vain!

Travel Flashback: Estonian Road Trip (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

We spent almost our entire Estonian holiday in the capital city of Tallinn.  However, we did embark on one out-of-town adventure:  a road trip to Haapsalu!

The decision to visit Haapsalu was more or less a random one.  There were several potential destinations but Haapsalu was close and accessible by a full roster of buses.  We figured that, if it didn’t live up to expectations, we could come home on an earlier bus.  As it turned out, we stayed longer than expected and caught the last bus of the day back to Tallinn.

Haapsalu Castle
The 13th Century Castle in Haapsalu, Estonia

While we didn’t know too much about Haapsalu, the most difficult part of the trip was buying the bus ticket.   Few tourists in Estonia travel by local bus from Tallinn, so I had to resort to some creative communication techniques at the bus station.  It was probably very amusing for the ticket agent.

Fun in the Haapsalu castle
Fun in the Haapsalu Castle

Haapsalu is a very quaint town on the Baltic Sea.  It used to be a favored summer retreat of the Russian tsars:  the covered portion of the Haapsalu railway station platform is 216 metres long  and is the longest in the former Russian empire (see photo at the top of the post).   The tsars, and many others, would come to Haapsalu to partake of its legendary mud cures.  The famous Russian composer Peter Tschaikovsky also spent a lot of time here; there is a bench that plays parts of his symphonies when you sit down on it.

On the waterfront in Haapsalu, Estonia
A waterfront reminder of Haapsalu’s glorious past

After a short walk from the train station (which, despite its oversized platform, was closed to trains and was now just a railway museum and a bus station), we were in the middle of Haapsalu’s historic downtown.  We had a delicious meal at a local cafe:  the picture is slightly out of focus, but I think you can probably tell that the dessert was decadent.  Later in the day, I had a bottle of kvass (a fermented beverage made from black rye bread)…it didn’t quite match up to the cake, but it was still something that I had to try while in Estonia.  Much tastier Estonian beverages were pear cider and Vana Tallinn; I’ll have more on those in a future blog.

Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia
Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia

Our first stop after lunch was the 13th-Century Haapsalu Castle.   It is right in the middle of downtown and we enjoyed climbing all over the huge complex.

Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront
Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront

The Haapsalu waterfront still housed a number of ornate buildings dating back to the Tsarist era.  While some had recently been restored to their former glory, there were still signs of neglect from the Soviet period.   There were also some anti-touristic buildings:  we saw a largely abandoned factory that had clearly been built when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.  The most surprising part was how such an ugly, industrial building, with no need for water access, could be placed in such a prime waterfront location.   We also saw a suspicious-looking building that looked like it was a combination of apartments and a surveillance tower:  what was the real story?

Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia
Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia

It wasn’t the only mystery.  There was also an extremely odd sculpture in the harbour:  for reasons we don’t fully understand, a polar bear (which is by no means native to this region) rises majestically out of the water…near the curiously-named Africa Beach.  Were these simply examples of the quirky Estonian wit?  We left Haapsalu with more questions than answers.

Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu's Africa Beach
Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu’s Africa Beach

The combination of a beautiful downtown, a historic castle, puzzling relics and the shadow of the Soviet era all combined to make Haapsalu a fascinating day trip.   It would be interesting to visit it again in a few years, to see whether it has taken further steps towards regaining its glamorous past.

Looking Ahead

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Things have been quite busy since returning from our road trip to Southwestern Ontario.  We managed to get out for a day trip to Perth but otherwise have been staying close to home.

The end of the summer travel season is a time to pause and consider what adventures lie ahead.  Music certainly seems to be at the forefront, with 5 major concerts between now and April. This October, I’ll be traveling out of town to attend one of those “bucket list” concerts that I honestly thought I’d never get to see. Stay tuned for my report on that!

Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium
Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium

I have already set aside some time in early 2016 for skiing. The dates have been chosen but the destination is still very much a work in progress. One thing is certain: given the “candidates” that are in the running, it will be a spectacular setting.

As for the shorter term, the plans are for more local travel…and hopefully to burn through some more of the frequent flyer points and other rewards that I accumulated during my big year of travel. Some of those points will expire soon and I will need to do something with them.  I’ve often entertained the notion of going on a low-cost last-minute trip and, if my schedule allows it,  I might be able to do that this fall.

Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials
Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials

Unfortunately, it is becoming more and more difficult to take advantage of most frequent flyer programs.  With blackout periods, “service” fees, and nasty itineraries involving 18-hour layovers between one-hour flights, some of these “rewards” seem illusory.   I prefer to use my points on travel but may well be forced to cash them in for gift cards if I can’t make the logistics work for me.

Zebras are apparently black with white stripes...not white with black stripes
Zebras are apparently black with white stripes…not white with black stripes

Regardless of whether I can squeeze in some last-minute trips, I will still be posting on this blog.  However, the posts will likely not be as frequent for the next few months.

The pictures from today’s blog are from the Kingston Sheep Dog Trials.  This annual event was held earlier this month just east of the city at Grass Creek Park.  I had never attended before and will admit to some skepticism about the event.  However, it was actually fascinating to see the border collies herding the reluctant sheep.  It is amazing what these dogs can do.

Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

As our family once had a majestic (and bilingual) German Shepherd, I was also very interested in seeing the police dog demonstration put on by the Kingston Police at the Sheep Dog Trials.  The police dogs are actually German Shepherd/Belgian Malinois crosses but the characteristic intelligence and determination of the German Shepherd was very much in evidence.

Kingston police dog attacks the "bad guy" during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston police dog attacks the “bad guy” during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

Other dog events included an agility competition and “dock diving”.   There were many dog lovers at this event and it was also fun just to look at the other dogs in attendance.  We were briefly tempted to import a Shepherd from Belgium after seeing the puppy pictured above!

I’ll be back soon with more travel writing and photos!