All posts by pierrev

Stevie Wonder in Concert

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

There was a lot of musical synchronicity over the past week.  I wrote about seeing Paul McCartney in concert, received a vinyl copy of McCartney’s remixed “Tug of War” album (featuring two duets with Stevie Wonder), and then went on a blitz of a road trip to see Stevie Wonder perform live in Toronto.

This wasn’t just a “greatest hits” concert:  Stevie was going to perform his entire 1976 magnum opus “Songs in the Key of Life”.  Widely considered to be one of the best albums ever made, despite an extended running length of almost two hours, it spawned both hit singles and “deep cuts” that have had a profound influence on popular music.   Almost everybody knows songs such as “Sir Duke“, “I Wish“, “Isn’t She Lovely” and “Pastime Paradise”…at least by tune, if not by name.

IMG_7275Stevie went onstage at 8:15 p.m. and it was clear that his voice had not suffered over the years.  He also had a huge 36-person band, including a string section, a horn section, a choir, multiple drummers and percussionists and at least 6 backing vocalists.  Songs such as “Village Ghetto Land” were improved from the album as they featured live (rather than synthesized) strings.  Special guests included April Ellington, daughter of…Duke Ellington!  This was a big, big show.

For me, the highlights came fast and furious with back-to-back performances of “Sir Duke” and “I Wish”.  “Sir Duke”, in particular, benefited hugely from the large horn section.  “I Wish”, with its prominent bass, fared slightly less well due to some low-end sound issues but was still memorable.  The low-end issues became rather distracting right before and after the 20-minute intermission but thankfully resolved before too much damage had been done.

IMG_7283While the point of the concert was to play the entire “Songs in the Key of Life” album in order, Stevie did embark on a few tangents. In the first set, he challenged his backing vocalists to match his singing gymnastics solo and without any accompaniment. They all passed the test with flying colours.

In the second set, Stevie played “Ngiculela-Es Una Historia-I Am Singing” with an unusual zither-like instrument called a “harpejji”.   After it was over, he started playing what sounded to me like the chords to John Lennon’s “Imagine” on the harpejji.  He then said that it was his brother’s birthday, to which the audience responded with polite applause.  But it also occurred to me, as someone who probably knows an unhealthy amount of Beatles trivia, that this precise day would have been John Lennon’s 75th birthday.

Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert
Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert

Sure enough, Stevie then said that he wanted to play “Imagine” for his brother, John Lennon.  This definitely wasn’t in the script.  He began playing the song and asked for audience help partway through the song.  It soon became clear why:  he began crying and was unable to sing an extended portion of the lyric.  He recovered somewhat, but wiped away a lot of tears (without apology) before he could continue with the next song.   A lengthy standing ovation ensued and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.

Concerts are obviously big business and Stevie is not a poor man.  But he is still a sensitive man and, 35 years after Lennon’s death, Stevie is still affected by his murder.  He urged the audience to do what they could to prevent senseless violence and intolerance.

Toronto at midnight
Toronto at midnight

Stevie then resumed performing the rest of his famous album with renewed vigour and finished it about 3 hours after the concert began.  He then assumed his alter-ego of “DJ Tick Tick Boom” for the encore and it is difficult to explain exactly what happened next.  To preserve the surprise, I’ll just say that he played snippets of some disco classics, abbreviated versions of a few of his other hits, and finished with a scorching version of “Superstition”  that made full use of the entire band (again with a memorable brass performance).  It was almost midnight when the concert finally ended; Stevie looked like he had thoroughly enjoyed sharing his music with us.

While there were plenty of Stevie Wonder classics that weren’t played (“Signed, Sealed, Delivered…I’m Yours” is one that I would have liked to hear), there simply would not have been enough time.   As with Paul McCartney’s 2009 concert in Halifax, we felt like we were witnessing a part of history.   We’re looking forward to reliving the experience by playing “Songs in the Key of Life” when we get home!

Road Trip to see Paul McCartney in Nova Scotia (2009)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In about one week’s time, we are going to check off another item on our musical bucket lists.  Music is very subjective, of course, but I think the magnitude of this upcoming concert is similar to our evening with former Beatle Paul McCartney in Halifax, Nova Scotia back in July of 2009.

Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)
Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)

Driving to Nova Scotia from Ontario does not enjoy a great reputation. Yes, there were some long stretches of tedium. However, we were pleasantly surprised by our overnight stay in Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec, where we found an attractive downtown core with excellent food…and even bought a pair of Helly Hansen (see my previous post) shorts!

Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec
Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec

Next up was a long drive through New Brunswick. We had big plans for Fredericton but the legislature building was closed for renovations and the downtown generally seemed closed when we arrived late in the afternoon.  We pressed on to the tiny town of Sackville, home of Mount Allison University, to spend our second night on the road.   We stayed in a college residence: an excellent accommodation option in the summer months.  We also felt compelled to visit Mel’s Tea Room:  the jukebox, stools and menu were all in accordance with our expectations.

Mel's Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick
Mel’s Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick

Early the next day, we crossed the border into Nova Scotia.  It was the day of the concert so we didn’t have much time to catch up with our friends before heading to the show.

So what is a Paul McCartney concert like?  Unlike his 1970s concerts with Wings, Paul’s latter-day concerts fully embrace his Beatle past.  It is truly remarkable to hear so many Beatles classics sung by the man who actually wrote them.  You get a feeling that you are a part of history:  many of these songs will be considered the “Classical Music of the 20th Century”.

Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick
Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick

However, and this may seem like sacrilege to some, Paul has been emphasizing his Beatles hits (and his essentially solo “Band on the Run” album) in concert for so long now that I sometimes found myself wishing that he would skip some of the more overexposed or less-melodic songs.    “Paperback Writer” and “Get Back”?  Er, heard those the last time, thanks…don’t really need to hear them again.   On the other hand, I certainly can’t find fault with songs like the enormously popular “Hey Jude” and it was great to hear energetic versions of only slightly-less familiar tracks like “All My Loving” and “I Saw Her Standing There”.   These songs still sound fresh and brilliant after half a century, and they weren’t even singles in most of the world!

Welcome to Nova Scotia!
Welcome to Nova Scotia!

So, while I would have liked to have heard a few more surprise selections from his solo work (“No More Lonely Nights”, for example, was a huge hit and has a great tune to boot), it is a very minor quibble.  To be fair, I also have seen Paul McCartney perform live before and have seen several of his concert videos.  The bottom line is that his concerts are about three hours in length, immaculately performed, and feature 95% of the songs that casual fans will want to hear.

McCartney still clearly loves performing and his band looks equally thrilled to be there.  I’ve never seen so many people be so happy at a concert from beginning to end.  This “shared experience” makes it easy to understand why many reviewers employ quasi-religious language when describing McCartney shows.  Tickets aren’t cheap but, if you’re a fan, I have no hesitation in recommending these concerts.

Things get a little chaotic during "Live and Let Die"
Things get a little chaotic during “Live and Let Die”

After all that, you may be wondering who we’re seeing next week.  It’s another living legend whose story is every bit as compelling as (and perhaps more so than) Paul McCartney’s.  Feel free to guess…or stay tuned for my report in about a week’s time!

Travel Flashback: Bergen, Norway (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m a big believer in serendipitous travel.  When we were researching our 2010 trip to Norway, we thought it would be nice to see the Atlantic coast of Norway.  At the same time, it seemed like a waste of time to travel out to the coast from Oslo…and then back again to Oslo for the flight home.  It turned out that Icelandair served a number of Norwegian cities from Reykjavik…so we were able to book a flight into Bergen and then out of Oslo at no extra cost.  We didn’t know much about Bergen but figured that there must be something worth seeing.

As it turns out, there was plenty to see.  We quickly learned that Bergen was one of the major Hanseatic League cities:  a Germanic trading organization that linked the Baltic States, Scandinavia, Germany and Poland.  Of course, there was no united “Germany” yet, but German was definitely the language of commerce.

Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen
Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen

The historic Bryggen district, dominating Bergen’s waterfront, contains a large number of brightly coloured wooden buildings from the Hanseatic days.  We spent the better part of a day exploring the various museums embedded into the Bryggen buildings.  Everybody takes pictures of the exteriors but the dark interiors are equally fascinating.  And there is a lot of dried fish, too.

On our first evening in town, we took a gondola lift up to a park located high above Bergen’s harbour.   In just a few minutes we were hiking around a verdant wilderness, wondering whether there might be bears, and completely forgetting that we were in Norway’s second largest city.

One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront
One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront

Bergen is also a modern city and we spent some time shopping and visiting markets.  This was the summer right after the Vancouver Winter Olympics:  Norway’s men’s curling team had made a real splash at the Olympics with their outrageously colourful curling pants.  By the summer, however, the novelty had begun to wear off.   and we saw a lot of plaid curling pants for sale.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any that fit me.

A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen
A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen

While I was unsuccessful in the curling pants department, I did find a Helly Hansen rugby shirt (Helly Hansen being a famous Norwegian brand of sports & outdoor clothing) that was almost as striking.  To this day, it attracts cries of “Where’s Waldo?” whenever I wear it.  The shirt has turned out to be a nice souvenir that I’ll forever associate with Bergen.

As Bergen was the first city we’ve ever visited in Norway, we will also forever associate it with huge and unique breakfasts.  As the price of food in Norway was quite outrageous, we learned to take extreme advantage of the hotel’s smorgasbordesque breakfast and not eat again until dinner.

Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen
Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen

I suppose the amount of fish at breakfast was to be expected; this is, after all, a country with a huge fishing heritage.  Yet it was the cheese, of all things, that was most surprising.   For the first time, we ate brunost…or “brown cheese”.   Here’s a link to a Guardian article about it: from its orange-brown colour to its fudge-like texture to its surprising sweet and salty flavour, it is something else that I will never forget.  Just like some of my favourite Dutch treats, brunost does not seem to have caught on much outside its home country.

Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen
Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen

Bergen is a beautifully situated city and a great springboard for exploring the fjords.  If we make it to Norway again, we will focus on the Atlantic Coast…and it would be great to start with a return visit to this very livable place.

The Thrill of the Chase

(KIngston, Ontario, Canada)

As I mentioned in a recent post, the dates have been chosen and I am now deep into the “venue selection process” for this winter’s ski trip. It’s not on the same scale as planning an entire year’s worth of travel, but this is the most complicated travel problem I’ve faced for quite some time.  Today’s lengthy post, illustrated with some pictures from March of 2010, is all about figuring out when and where to ski.

Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)
Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)

There are usually about 6 of us, coming from 4 or 5 different countries (depending on the year) and two continents. Thanks to e-mail, this is not an insurmountable barrier.  However, while it is great to be in regular contact with my “ski posse”, it can sometimes still feel like herding cats when it is time to make a decision.  Not only are we in different time zones, but we all in different professions (with their own “seasons”) and our countries all have different “high seasons” for holidays.  In Canada, for example, there can be a lot of competition in the workplace for “March Break” vacations.

Geography, economics, and our own preferences dictate that the ski venue will be in Europe. We also like to discover new resorts, so we rarely say “let’s just go back to the same place as last year”. This is where things get really complicated.  Europe is a small continent but there is a huge amount of skiing.

Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)
Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)

The first consideration is the time of year.  February is traditionally the month for ski holidays  in Europe, so prices are often double what they might be in January or March.  As January is also the coldest month and high-altitude skiing means even colder temperatures, this means that we will generally ski in March.

Skiing in March rules out a lot of the lower-altitude resorts, as we need to be sure that the resort will have sufficient snow.  This means that we are more or less confined to the Alps.   This is not a terrible fate but it does rule out some interesting off-the-beaten-path possibilities.

The Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)
Skiing by the Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)

The next consideration is national price levels.  While we always stay in inexpensive accommodation, a strong currency and high standards of living can sometimes push even the cheapest accommodation out of reach.  Right now, pretty much everything in Switzerland is out of the question because of the very strong Swiss Franc.  It’s not just the hotel cost: we also have to consider the cost of lift passes, ski rental, food, and transportation to/from the resort.

As we enjoy exploring different pistes and most European bookings need to be for a week, the resort needs to be of a certain size to hold our interest.    We don’t want to ski the same slopes six days in a row.  This rules out all but the largest stand-alone resorts.  Generally, we are looking for a ski “region”, where a single pass gets you access to a variety of different resorts (ideally linked by pistes rather than by bus or train).  We try to avoid purpose-built resorts:  it’s much more interesting to ski in and around real Alpine villages.

3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia
3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia

Once we think we’ve found a region or resort,  we also need to consider our access to the ski lifts.  An otherwise perfect village 6 miles from the nearest lift does not work.  Ideally, we want something in the “middle” of the region that allows us to access all of the resorts covered by the weekly ski pass.

We also need to find accommodation for 6 unrelated people.  Ideally, this would be in 6 single rooms, although this is not always possible.  Most hotels don’t have many single rooms, as the economics favour putting more than one person in a room.   Also, many seemingly ideal hotels are booked a year or more in advance, either by tour groups or by returning skiers who have enjoyed the resort in the past.

Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance
Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance

We also need to eat!  One of the great attractions of European skiing is the (usually) excellent on-mountain and in-resort dining.  However, this is not always the case.  Evening dinners can be problematic:  after 8 hours of skiing, we don’t want to wander all over town trying to find a reasonably-priced place with good (local) food that has tables available and appeals to all 6 of us.  Lately, we’ve found that a well-chosen hotel offering half-board (with each day’s breakfast and dinner included) is a good solution to this problem.  But good-value accommodation and good food don’t always go hand-in-hand.

With all of these considerations, the initial stages of the search can be overwhelming.  Nobody wants to let the others down with a lousy venue or a proposal that not everyone can afford.  This year, I did have a small crisis at one point and wondered whether we should just go back to a “safe” resort that we’ve visited before.

More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia
More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia

However, after much research and some frustrating late nights at the keyboard, the chase appears to be coming to a successful conclusion.   It looks like we’ve found our 2016 ski region and we are down to a couple of hotels in 2 different resorts within that region.

This year’s destination is the cross-border Via Lattea (“Milky Way”) ski region in northwestern Italy and southeastern France.  This region hosted the skiing events for the 2006 Winter Olympics in Torino (Turin).  Whichever hotel we choose, we will indeed have quality accommodation in a large ski region (that most of us have never visited before) with great food, interesting local culture and sights, good access to lifts, and very reasonable prices.   While it was a challenge at the time, it is great to know that the long hours of preparation will not be in vain!

Travel Flashback: Estonian Road Trip (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

We spent almost our entire Estonian holiday in the capital city of Tallinn.  However, we did embark on one out-of-town adventure:  a road trip to Haapsalu!

The decision to visit Haapsalu was more or less a random one.  There were several potential destinations but Haapsalu was close and accessible by a full roster of buses.  We figured that, if it didn’t live up to expectations, we could come home on an earlier bus.  As it turned out, we stayed longer than expected and caught the last bus of the day back to Tallinn.

Haapsalu Castle
The 13th Century Castle in Haapsalu, Estonia

While we didn’t know too much about Haapsalu, the most difficult part of the trip was buying the bus ticket.   Few tourists in Estonia travel by local bus from Tallinn, so I had to resort to some creative communication techniques at the bus station.  It was probably very amusing for the ticket agent.

Fun in the Haapsalu castle
Fun in the Haapsalu Castle

Haapsalu is a very quaint town on the Baltic Sea.  It used to be a favored summer retreat of the Russian tsars:  the covered portion of the Haapsalu railway station platform is 216 metres long  and is the longest in the former Russian empire (see photo at the top of the post).   The tsars, and many others, would come to Haapsalu to partake of its legendary mud cures.  The famous Russian composer Peter Tschaikovsky also spent a lot of time here; there is a bench that plays parts of his symphonies when you sit down on it.

On the waterfront in Haapsalu, Estonia
A waterfront reminder of Haapsalu’s glorious past

After a short walk from the train station (which, despite its oversized platform, was closed to trains and was now just a railway museum and a bus station), we were in the middle of Haapsalu’s historic downtown.  We had a delicious meal at a local cafe:  the picture is slightly out of focus, but I think you can probably tell that the dessert was decadent.  Later in the day, I had a bottle of kvass (a fermented beverage made from black rye bread)…it didn’t quite match up to the cake, but it was still something that I had to try while in Estonia.  Much tastier Estonian beverages were pear cider and Vana Tallinn; I’ll have more on those in a future blog.

Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia
Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia

Our first stop after lunch was the 13th-Century Haapsalu Castle.   It is right in the middle of downtown and we enjoyed climbing all over the huge complex.

Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront
Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront

The Haapsalu waterfront still housed a number of ornate buildings dating back to the Tsarist era.  While some had recently been restored to their former glory, there were still signs of neglect from the Soviet period.   There were also some anti-touristic buildings:  we saw a largely abandoned factory that had clearly been built when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.  The most surprising part was how such an ugly, industrial building, with no need for water access, could be placed in such a prime waterfront location.   We also saw a suspicious-looking building that looked like it was a combination of apartments and a surveillance tower:  what was the real story?

Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia
Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia

It wasn’t the only mystery.  There was also an extremely odd sculpture in the harbour:  for reasons we don’t fully understand, a polar bear (which is by no means native to this region) rises majestically out of the water…near the curiously-named Africa Beach.  Were these simply examples of the quirky Estonian wit?  We left Haapsalu with more questions than answers.

Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu's Africa Beach
Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu’s Africa Beach

The combination of a beautiful downtown, a historic castle, puzzling relics and the shadow of the Soviet era all combined to make Haapsalu a fascinating day trip.   It would be interesting to visit it again in a few years, to see whether it has taken further steps towards regaining its glamorous past.

Looking Ahead

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Things have been quite busy since returning from our road trip to Southwestern Ontario.  We managed to get out for a day trip to Perth but otherwise have been staying close to home.

The end of the summer travel season is a time to pause and consider what adventures lie ahead.  Music certainly seems to be at the forefront, with 5 major concerts between now and April. This October, I’ll be traveling out of town to attend one of those “bucket list” concerts that I honestly thought I’d never get to see. Stay tuned for my report on that!

Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium
Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium

I have already set aside some time in early 2016 for skiing. The dates have been chosen but the destination is still very much a work in progress. One thing is certain: given the “candidates” that are in the running, it will be a spectacular setting.

As for the shorter term, the plans are for more local travel…and hopefully to burn through some more of the frequent flyer points and other rewards that I accumulated during my big year of travel. Some of those points will expire soon and I will need to do something with them.  I’ve often entertained the notion of going on a low-cost last-minute trip and, if my schedule allows it,  I might be able to do that this fall.

Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials
Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials

Unfortunately, it is becoming more and more difficult to take advantage of most frequent flyer programs.  With blackout periods, “service” fees, and nasty itineraries involving 18-hour layovers between one-hour flights, some of these “rewards” seem illusory.   I prefer to use my points on travel but may well be forced to cash them in for gift cards if I can’t make the logistics work for me.

Zebras are apparently black with white stripes...not white with black stripes
Zebras are apparently black with white stripes…not white with black stripes

Regardless of whether I can squeeze in some last-minute trips, I will still be posting on this blog.  However, the posts will likely not be as frequent for the next few months.

The pictures from today’s blog are from the Kingston Sheep Dog Trials.  This annual event was held earlier this month just east of the city at Grass Creek Park.  I had never attended before and will admit to some skepticism about the event.  However, it was actually fascinating to see the border collies herding the reluctant sheep.  It is amazing what these dogs can do.

Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

As our family once had a majestic (and bilingual) German Shepherd, I was also very interested in seeing the police dog demonstration put on by the Kingston Police at the Sheep Dog Trials.  The police dogs are actually German Shepherd/Belgian Malinois crosses but the characteristic intelligence and determination of the German Shepherd was very much in evidence.

Kingston police dog attacks the "bad guy" during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston police dog attacks the “bad guy” during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

Other dog events included an agility competition and “dock diving”.   There were many dog lovers at this event and it was also fun just to look at the other dogs in attendance.  We were briefly tempted to import a Shepherd from Belgium after seeing the puppy pictured above!

I’ll be back soon with more travel writing and photos!

The Long Road Home

(Barrie/Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As much as we enjoyed Goderich, real life beckoned and we still had to find our way back to Kingston. Fortunately, the route was very open to negotiation: the only condition was that we had to stop in Barrie for a couple of nights. I was playing in a hockey tournament there; somehow, my travels had never taken me to this rapidly growing city on Lake Simcoe.

There is no obvious route for travel between Goderich and Barrie. We ultimately decided to focus on Highway 9: this would take us through a lot of unfamiliar towns, would avoid suburban sprawl, would enable a reasonable pace of travel on well-paved roads, and appeared to involve virtually no backtracking.

One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario
One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario

After quickly passing through the village of Lucknow in the pouring rain, the first town we looked at in any detail was Walkerton. It seemed like a nice-enough place; unfortunately, the first thing we thought about was the tainted water scandal that took place there more than 15 years ago.  It was a real tragedy:  7 people died and thousands were sickened in this town of just under 5,000 people.

The weather was starting to lighten up but we decided to press on to the somewhat larger town (7,500 residents) of Hanover.  Something about the place invited us to get out of the car and walk around.  Given the German origins of the town name, I wasn’t too surprised to see a bakery named Schultz.  I was more surprised to also see an extremely well-stocked Dutch deli and grocery store!

The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario
The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario

This store had it all:  Dutch clothing, books, magazines, deli products, and those very specific Dutch groceries that are commonplace in the Netherlands but haven’t quite made it into the Canadian mainstream.  I stocked up on proper atjar tjampoersambal manis and licorice dropjes, which are all becoming harder to find in the Kingston area.  I also picked up a very orange Dutch soccer hat and a self-explanatory book called “Stuff Dutch People Like”.   The customers in front of us even spoke Dutch with the cashier.

While walking down the main street, a man in one of the shop windows waved at us.  He was wearing headphones…it turns out he was broadcasting at Hanover’s radio station!  For all we know, he was about to tell his listeners about some new strangers in town.  We still have a soft spot in our hearts for local radio; we just didn’t expect to see it in Hanover.

On the attack at the Barrie Molson Centre

Perhaps Hanover wasn’t all that different from the other similarly-sized towns we saw on this trip…but chance happenings like the Dutch store and the DJ made it a little more special for us.   While we were in no danger of starving, we also stocked up at the Schultz bakery – you never know when you might need a chocolate cream horn.

Overlooking Lake Simcoe's Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario
Overlooking Lake Simcoe’s Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario

We continued eastward, passing through places like Durham, Flesherton and Stayner until we finally hit Barrie in the mid-afternoon.  After some quick vinyl-record shopping, we switched gears and went into hockey tournament mode for the couple of days. I enjoyed the intense hockey experience (playing 5 games in 44 hours!) but can’t say that I really got a feel for life in Barrie.

Colonel McGrady's Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario
Colonel McGrady’s Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario

After my last game, we reluctantly piled into the car for the home stretch.  More small towns I’ve never visited before:  Bradford, Sharon, Mount Albert…and, finally, lunch in Uxbridge.  We ate at Colonel McGrady’s Pub; I don’t know how “authentic” the sandwich was, but it was the best Philly Steak sandwich that I have ever had.  Lots of grilled peppers but also a barbecue-influenced sauce…it was almost like a upgraded pulled pork sandwich…with steak.

Eating out for a week can start to become tiresome but it’s always great to end a trip on such a high note.  It also compensated for the searing mid-afternoon heat that we felt in villages such as Bethany (see photo at the top of this post).  If we ever find ourselves in those parts of Ontario again, we’ll be sure to stop in Uxbridge  and Hanover to revisit the highlights of the long road home.

Surprising Facts about Goderich

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

Many towns have a central square, but Goderich has an octagon! Each of the vertices has a street running out from it, so that it looks somewhat like a Union Jack when viewed from above…and this is apparently what the town planner had in mind. The edges of the octagon form a two lane (one-way, counterclockwise) street that contains most of the downtown’s shops and services.  In the centre of the octagon is the county courthouse.

The octagon is surprisingly large, but I was more surprised by how disorienting it was. After walking more than one block, it becomes very difficult to figure out where you started and how far you have travelled.

The movie theatre on Goderich's "Octagon"
The movie theatre on Goderich’s “Octagon”

While the octagon was strange, I had a much harder time believing the story of the salt mines.  Goderich claims to have the largest salt mine in the world.  It is under Lake Huron; a huge salt bed was accidentally discovered there  in 1866 when a flour mill owner was searching for oil.  Of course, Lake Huron contains fresh water, which makes it difficult to visualize how a huge salt bed could be found here.  And yet, there it is!

The salt mines at Goderich
The salt mines at Goderich

The salt bed is so huge that it stretches some 5 kilometers under the lake.  Just north of the town beach, a series of blue industrial buildings houses the mining complex.  While “working in the salt mines” has a rather negative connotation to most of us, it is actually a desirable job in Goderich.  The mine currently employs 500 people and there is apparently another 100 years of salt left.  If you use Sifto salt, chances are it comes from Goderich!

Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich
Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich

On our last evening in Goderich, we went to jail.  Voluntarily, of course, and for the purposes of a special interactive Gaol Tour that is offered twice a week during the summer months.   Volunteers from the community dress up in period costumes and set themselves up in various rooms of the (now decommissioned and also octagonal) Huron County Gaol.

The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront
The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront

Not only are they dressed appropriately, they also “exist” in the late 19th century and talk to you as if you are a visitor to the gaol at that time.  References to electricity would, for example, result in complete confusion.  All of the inmates were very interested in the fact that we were from Kingston, as even then they would end up in Kingston Penitentiary if they received a substantial sentence.

One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich
One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich

We learned that many of the “residents” of the gaol were there for the then-crimes of insanity or vagrancy.  Entire families could end up behind bars because one or both parents were accused of vagrancy.   A very large percentage of the residents were also illiterate.   Another striking theme was how bored the residents were.   While they had a relatively high degree of autonomy within their respective cell blocks, there were essentially no learning opportunities or programs to reduce the risk of future offences.

Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich
Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich

We didn’t know about any of these places before we started to research our trip to Lake Huron.  In fact, we didn’t know about the salt mine until we got here!  However, the combination of interesting sights and a proud community made Goderich an excellent choice as a Huronian home base.  Stay tuned for more tales from the road!

Sunsets and a Tornado

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

For nearly two hundred years, Goderich has been famous for its spectacular sunsets.  This town of about 8,000 people lies on the shore of Lake Huron (“Ontario’s West Coast”) and faces directly west.  This means that the sun is clearly and vibrantly visible as it sets over Lake Huron at night. In fact, the sunsets can be viewed twice:  once from the beach and again from the high bluff that overlooks the beach.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

As you can see from today’s photos, I decided to take a lot of photographs of the sunset.  This is one of those “essential local experiences” that I wanted to capture on film.  Both locals and tourists were walking up and down the town’s long boardwalk to view the sunset; many others parked their cars facing west and prepared to watch the sunset from the comfort of their vehicle.  This scene repeats itself every summer night.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

Goderich is well aware of its beautiful sunsets.  Once a week, a group of bagpipers “pipes down the sun”.  Many local artists paint or photograph the sunsets.  Goderich would be perfectly happy if sunsets were the only natural phenomena associated with this well-kept community.  Alas, August 21, 2011 changed all that.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

On August 21, 2011, a Class F3 tornado struck Goderich with almost no warning.  Wind speeds reached an incredible 300 kilometers per hour.  The tornado raced through Goderich’s unique downtown and caused an estimated $130,000,000 in damage in only 12 seconds.

We saw pictures of the wreckage:  it was horrifying, with buildings ripped apart and massive trees uprooted and scattered all over the town.   Miraculously, only one person died but 37 more were injured.

West Street Willy's - We ate at this Goderich Restaurant.  It was rebuilt after the tornado
West Street Willy’s – We ate at this Goderich Restaurant. It was rebuilt after the tornado

The recovery from the tornado has been swift…but not surprising.  Goderich has had a long history of winning titles such as “Canada’s Prettiest Town”.   Meticulously prepared flower beds are everywhere and are signposted with the names of the local residents who are looking after them.  Even though the tornado has obviously changed the face of the town, Goderich is still winning these competitions.

This civic pride is evident everywhere.  The streets and parks are startlingly clean; if a visitor leaves rubbish behind, a local resident is likely to pick it up and dispose of it.

Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario
Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario

About 20 minutes south of Goderich is the village of Bayfield.  The vast number of sailboats in the harbour attest to its popularity with boaters.   It was not hit by the tornado and is recommended in many guide books for its shopping and historic inns.  While the main street is undoubtedly quaint and the village is scrubbed just as clean as Goderich, it also didn’t seem to be quite as real.  As the sweltering heat made shopping a low priority, we decided to return to Goderich for some local ice cream.

Stay tuned for some fascinating facts about Goderich and an unexpected jewel in the middle of southwestern Ontario!

Moving on to Lake Huron

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

After reluctantly saying goodbye to our turret in London, we took the scenic route to our next destination of Lake Huron…a lake that neither one of us has ever visited.

We started with a quick look at the University of Western Ontario (which now seems to prefer the name Western University of Canada):  it was essentially unrecognizable to me, as it has been more than 20 years since I last visited.

St. Marys even had a massive opera house!
St. Marys even had a massive opera house!

We pressed on to the small town of St. Marys; it is also known as “Stonetown” due to the limestone quarries and huge cement plant.  Many of the older buildings reminded us of Kingston, as many of them were built from the locally quarried limestone.   It’s a relatively busy place, even though it is not on any major highways, and is even the home of the Canadian Baseball Hall of Fame!  For some reason, St. Marys seemed happier than most of the other places we have visited so far on this road trip.

The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario
The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario

Next up was Stratford.  Like London, Ontario (which is located  on the Thames River), Stratford is naturally located on the Avon River.  It also is the host of the Stratford Festival – an annual theatrical extravaganza that focuses mostly (but not exclusively) on the works of William Shakespeare.  There is even a village named Shakespeare a few miles to the east.

Not surprisingly, Stratford caters to a relatively affluent crowd.  I’m sure our ridiculously cheap lunch in St. Marys would have cost us substantially more if we had ordered it in Stratford.  We looked into seeing a theatrical performance here, but nothing really appealed to us.  After wandering around the downtown core, we headed west on Highway 8 to our next destination.

Another large town hall in a small town:  this is in Seaforth, Ontario
Another large town hall in a small town: this is in Seaforth, Ontario

Highway 8 was a pleasant drive through a series of small towns (Mitchell, Seaforth, Clinton) that I knew little about, other than suspecting that they were probably heavily into hockey and curling…and therefore worthy of my respect.  Due to road work in the middle of Mitchell, we selected Seaforth as a place to get out of the car and walk around.  It had some grand buildings (see photo at the top of this post) and an unhurried pace…so unhurried, in fact, that many shops and services were already closed up even though it was only 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon!

An outstanding Thai Beef Salad ar West Street Willy's in Goderich, Ontario
An outstanding Thai Beef Salad at West Street Willy’s in Goderich, Ontario

We arrived in Goderich, our home for the next two nights, just before dinner.  I’ll be writing more about Goderich in future blogs; for now, I just want to say that our dinner at West Street Willy’s was excellent.   It wasn’t a Thai restaurant, but somehow I found a “Thai Beef Salad” that has to be one of the best and most refreshing salads I have ever had.  This Thai thing is clearly getting out of control but I am enjoying it while it lasts.

Our current home:  the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario
Our current home: the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario

We’re staying at the Colborne B&B:  it is an impressive Victorian home perfectly situated in the downtown core.  We don’t have a turret but there are plenty of turrets elsewhere in this fascinating town on Lake Huron.  Stay tuned for more details!