Category Archives: Posts from the road

Arrival in the Cinque Terre of Italy!

(Vernazza, Italy)

It wasn’t easy…but I am finally in Italy’s renowned Cinque Terre region!

Allow me to explain.  I first had to take a train  from Kingston to Dorval, Quebec.  From there, a shuttle bus to Montreal’s international airport.  I then flew from Montreal to Paris:  this was the easy part, as the favourable winds made it only a 6 hour flight.  However, as it was an overnight flight, this also left very little time for sleeping.  After going through customs and security (again) in Paris, I waited for my next flight from Paris to Genoa, Italy.  This was a smaller plane so I had to walk out onto the tarmac to board the plane…with nasty winds and rain swirling around.

Vernazza, as viewed from the beginning of the trail to Corniglia (you can see Monterosso al Mare in the background)
Vernazza, as viewed from the beginning of the trail to Corniglia (you can see Monterosso al Mare in the background)

The flight to Genoa was fine (early again!) and then I caught a shuttle bus from the airport to the train station.  There, I caught a train for Levanto.  It was about 20 minutes late, but I had a buffer before catching my final “local” train to Vernazza (located only 8 minutes away from Levanto by train).  I boarded the train and waited.  And waited.   The train never left and we were eventually told to go to a different platform.  But there was no staff to say which one and…well, it was a fiasco.  To make a very long story short, I arrived in Vernazza 2 1/2 hours after my scheduled time.  Quite a delay for an 8 minute train ride!  Having not really slept on the overnight flight, I was rather ill-tempered by this point and decided it would not be a good time to write my blog.  I’m writing this blog the next day, after a long and satisfying day of hiking (details coming soon).

Vernazza's "business district" in the evening
Vernazza’s “business district” in the evening

And what about this Cinque Terre place?  Picture an ancient Italian village full of colourful houses stacked almost one on top of another, located on the Mediterranean coast, surrounded by cliffs, off-limits to cars, free of retail/hotel/restaurant chains, free of hotels generally, served only by rail (and boats during the summer), blessed with amazing hiking, and proud of its food specialties.  That’s Vernazza…and, that also describes (more or less) every one of the 5 Cinque Terre villages.  The others are Monterosso al Mare, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore…and they are all linked by coastal hiking trails!

I am willing to bet that this is the only "Stalin Gelateria" in the world (Vernazza, Italy)
This is probably the only “Stalin Gelateria” in the world (Vernazza, Italy)

I’m fortunate to be visiting Cinque Terre during the off-season.  Everybody who is here now really *wants* to be here…which means that they are here to hike the trails.  There are beaches but it is too cold for them right now.   Well, maybe not for Canadians!

Vernazza's harbour in the evening
Vernazza’s harbour in the evening

My next couple of posts will cover my hiking adventures.   Today’s post just has some pictures from Vernazza: this is a village of about 500 people (more live here in the summer) and it will be my home for three nights.  As there are no hotels, accommodation here is essentially just in camere (“rooms”) rented out by local residents.  It’s similar to a B&B, without the breakfast.  I’m very happy with my room and location.

My "home" on the right: Camere Fontanavecchhia
My “home” on the right: Camere Fontanavecchhia

My first meal in Vernazza was pizza.  I enjoyed it but it’s not a specialty of this particular province (Liguria).  Tonight’s meal will hopefully be  a little more regional.

Stay tuned for the next few weeks – I am going to be sharing a lot from my first European trip since late 2014!

Ottawa in a Blizzard

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

My previous post talked about our trip to the Supreme Court of Canada, but that wasn’t the only national site we visited on December 29.  We also braved the snows to take a tour of the Royal Canadian Mint.

The Royal Canadian Mint actually has two locations now.  The original facility in Ottawa now produces only special commemorative and investment coins, while the newer facility in Winnipeg now handles the minting of the standard everyday coinage.   The upside of this is that you get to see some seriously valuable metal in Ottawa, as virtually everything is made of silver or gold.  It also produces specialty items, such as the medals awarded during the 2010 Winter Olympics and the 2015 Pan-Am Games.

Security Gate outside the Royal Canadian Mint in Ottawa
Security Gate outside the Royal Canadian Mint in Ottawa

After the tour, we were able to lift a gold bar worth about $680,000.00.  It is securely attached and under the watchful eyes of two security guards; it is also a lot heavier than you’d expect!  The tour is not long but it is also not that expensive; however, you do need to sign up in advance so that you are able to go through the guard post at the entrance to the facility.  Unfortunately, no photographs are permitted during the tour itself.

Bank Street in Ottawa's Glebe neighbourhood
Bank Street in Ottawa’s Glebe neighbourhood

As we had both previously been on tours of the Parliament Buildings, we weren’t too disappointed to find out that the day’s tours were already fully booked by the time we got there.  You can only get tickets on the day of the tour; as a result, there are often line-ups first thing in the morning and all of the day’s tickets were gone by 10:30 a.m.  If the timing works for us, we will try to take one of these tours the next time we are in Ottawa.

Inside the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa
Inside the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa

That evening, we went to a family-run Persian restaurant called “Saffron” in the Sandy Hill neighbourhood.  It was not fancy but we really enjoyed the food.  They were very accommodating and even suggested that my wife order something that was not on the menu.

The previous day, we spent an entire afternoon at the Canadian War Museum.  It is huge:  there are 4 separate halls plus a large temporary exhibit area:  we were there for about three hours and only saw the “Cold War” hall and the temporary exhibit on Women in War.

Odd device from the National War Museum in Ottawa
Electropsychometer (Lie Detector) from the National War Museum in Ottawa

The Cold War hall focused naturally on the period between World War II and the early 1990s.  It is strange to walk through a museum and see things that you actually remember being part of your own life:  for us, seeing the small display of “Cold War music videos from the 1980s” was especially poignant as we remember when these songs and videos first came out.

A piece of the Berlin Wall at the War Museum. This is the side that faced West Berlin; there was nothing on the side facing East Berlin
A piece of the Berlin Wall at the War Museum. This is the side that faced West Berlin; there was nothing on the side facing East Berlin

I spent some time at the Cold War Simulator, watching the two “best guesses” of how a conflict between NATO and the Warsaw Pact might have unfolded.  Even though these were only simulations, it was still very scary to see a desperate, last-ditch use of chemical weapons followed by a single retaliatory nuclear strike.

My next major trip is now less than 2 months away; I’ve been very busy with finalizing those arrangements and doing the “macro planning” for this summer’s southern hemisphere journey.  Stay tuned for more on those trips and some more travel flashbacks!

 

 

The Supreme Court of Canada

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

One of the fun experiences during our December getaway to Ottawa was a guided tour of the Supreme Court of Canada. As a lawyer, of course, this was the ultimate career-related tour for me.  Other than a visit to the Federal Court of Appeal (housed in the same building) twenty years ago as a law student with one of my professors, I had never been to the Supreme Court.

You cannot just show up for guided Supreme Court tours but it is possible to book them online.  Perhaps because of the raging and long-awaited blizzard on December 29, our tour consisted of just the two of us and our guide. I think he enjoyed providing a bit more detail than he would normally provide to non-lawyers.

A closer look at the Supreme Court of Canada
A closer look at the Supreme Court of Canada – this is a colour photograph!

The building looks very severe from the outside (see snowy photo at the top of this blog – it’s also a colour photograph!), reflecting the rationality that is necessarily part of the Supreme Court’s role.   Despite a huge foyer and impressive staircases, the Supreme Court courtroom is actually not that large.  I have been in larger local courtrooms, although not quite as plush.  Of course, the Supreme Court does not require space for jurors or witnesses:  proceedings here are appeals from lower courts and do not require new testimony.  The appeals are relatively technical and free from the unpredictability of live witnesses.

Main foyer of the Supreme Court of Canada - the stairs lead to the main courtroom; you can also see the formal judge's robe at the bottom left
Main foyer of the Supreme Court of Canada – the stairs lead to the main courtroom; you can also see the formal judge’s robe at the bottom left

Even in front of one judge, presenting legal arguments can be somewhat intimidating.  Imagine presenting to a panel of 9 judges!  I stood at the lectern and was surprised by how close the judges would be in “real life”.   While some hearings are handled by “only” 5 or 7 judges, a lawyer at the Supreme Court is still trying to make very precise and subtle arguments to a lot of very brilliant minds.  Their time is very valuable and you cannot waste it with irrelevancies.  Not only that, but they are also able to communicate with each other during the course of the hearing.  Yes, they have “chat” capability on their computers!  This allows them to focus even more on the most important issues.

Inside the Supreme Court! The judges sit in the 9 chairs facing the camera; the lawyer arguing stands at the lectern near the bottom left
Inside the Supreme Court! The judges sit in the 9 chairs facing the camera; the lawyer arguing stands at the lectern near the bottom left

We also spent some time in the Federal Court of Appeal, where a panel is typically composed of three judges.  This portion of the tour is a little more informal and tour participants can even be photographed on the judges’ bench wearing supplied “judge robes” (which were, in this case, identical to my own legal robes).  We decided to take advantage of the opportunity!

Renegade panel of judges at the Federal Court of Appeal
Renegade panel of judges at the Federal Court of Appeal

You do not need to be on a guided tour to observe proceedings in the Federal Court of Appeal or the Supreme Court of Canada.  It is possible to just show up and watch:  even these highest levels of our court system are open to the public, subject to spectator capacity, security checks and respectful behaviour.   Hearings are also streamed over the Internet.  However, unlike trials with live witnesses, the Supreme Court drama lies in the intellectual challenge and the broader impacts of the decisions on society.

My next blog entry will have more on our wintry trip to Ottawa!

Small Town Ontario, Part 2

(Marlbank, Ontario, Canada)

On our trip to Cobourg, we took the scenic route to get home. What normally takes about 95 minutes of driving ended up taking the better part of the day. However, it was first time for us on most of the roads…and we even visited some communities that we had never seen before.

I’ve called this article “Part 2” because I wrote another post about small towns back in the spring of this year.  While nearly 6 months have passed since then, I’m pleased to report that our travel philosophy appears to be more or less the same:  the best parts were when we found something truly unique to the area.  We ate local food, went to local stores, and didn’t set foot in a single mall.

Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth
Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth

The drive on Highway 45 northeast from Cobourg was very scenic.  It seemed like the combination of rolling hills and autumn colours got better with each turn, so we drove by a couple of conservation areas without stopping.  We figured there would soon be an even better place to get out and explore in the crisp fall air.  Alas, we waited too long.   The terrain suddenly became more agricultural and lacked the scenic “oomph” we saw between Baltimore and Fenella.   I have no pictures of this segment…only memories.

After a quick stop in Hastings, we ended up in Warkworth.  To Kingstonians, this small village is known primarily as the home of another penitentiary.  However, much to our surprise, it has also attracted a significant number of artists and specialty shops.

Downtown Warkworth, Ontario
Downtown Warkworth, Ontario

We stumbled upon a true cottage industry:  a shortbread cookie bakery where we found an enthusiastic staff stuffing cookies into bags and parcels.  We picked up a couple of bags for later consumption and headed towards our intended lunch destination of Campbellford.  First, however, we passed a ramshackle barn in the hamlet of Meyersburg that hosted a bustling flea market.   Who would have expected an Eastern European deli to be set up in there and selling their own extremely spicy pepperoni sticks?

View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario
View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario

Campbellford, like Hastings, is a busy village located on the Trent-Severn Waterway.  We seriously underestimated the size of our meals at the Riverview Restaurant:  after such a massive pulled pork sandwich for lunch, I didn’t really need to eat dinner.  They offered typical diner food, with a daily special of liver and onions and old-fashioned desserts such as rice pudding and jello.

From Campbellford, we drove across sparsely settled countryside to the village of Tweed.  Linked over the years to some post-1977 sightings of Elvis Presley, it seemed to shut down on this Sunday afternoon.   After a brief stop, during which we neither saw nor heard anyone remotely resembling Elvis, we drove down a worryingly isolated and increasingly rough road that finally brought us to the village of Marlbank.

The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario
The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario

Marlbank was at one point a bustling place, but it was bypassed by the provincial highway system and now it appears to have been frozen in the early 20th century.   Non-threatening dogs wandered the narrow streets and vehicles were few and far between.   There were some riveting houses (see photo at the top of this post- it’s for sale!), however, and we did eventually come to a street lined with cars.  The local tavern was holding square dancing lessons and it looked like the place was full.  Maybe this was why Tweed shut down on Sunday afternoon!

As I mentioned in my previous post, we expect to return to the Cobourg area next fall.  In addition to the vintage film festival and perhaps a concert, we will also have some autumn walking to do!

A special evening in Cobourg

(Cobourg, Ontario, Canada)

We went for a road trip this weekend and decided to stay overnight in Cobourg, Ontario…a town located almost 100 miles west of Kingston. This is just a bit too far to properly visit on a day-trip, but perhaps not far enough for a weekend trip. Beyond “it seemed like a nice place to explore, the last time we passed through”, not a lot of thought went into our choice.

We arrived to mid-afternoon rain and quickly visited the shops and indoor sights we wanted to see. We took a look at the historic Victoria Hall concert venue, located in a beautiful old stone building on Cobourg’s main street, and decided that it would be nice to attend a concert there some day.

Cobourg's Victoria Hall at night
Cobourg’s Victoria Hall at night

As the drizzly weather continued, we decided to drive on to the nearby town of Port Hope to do some more shopping and indoor sightseeing. Port Hope has a compact but attractive downtown core and we made a point of visiting its restored “golden age of cinema” Capitol Theatre.

Inside the Capitol, we discovered that Port Hope (and Cobourg) were hosting the Vintage Film Festival that very weekend. They were showing some seriously old movies, including one silent movie on Sunday morning from 1917 that would feature a live piano accompanist! We resolved to return in the morning for that unique experience, if at all possible.

Port Hope's historic Capitol Theatre
Port Hope’s historic Capitol Theatre

As we trudged on through the rain, I saw a poster for an upcoming concert:  “Tribute to The Last Waltz”.  I thought this would be interesting, as it featured a large band of well-known professional Canadian musicians recreating The Band’s legendary 1976 farewell concert.  That concert was made into a movie by Martin Scorsese and also received a triple-album release on vinyl.  In addition to music by The Band, that particular concert also featured performances by The Band with Van Morrison, Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Dr. John, Muddy Waters, Eric Clapton, Ringo Starr and many others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

Curious, we looked a little closer at the poster.  The concert was going to be in Cobourg’s Victoria Hall!  Tonight!   Should we go?  Yes!  We raced back to Cobourg in search of tickets.  It was a wild goose chase, as stores were closing and the concert appeared to be sold out.  We actually tracked down the promoter himself and found out that two ticketholders *might* not be able to attend.  At one minute before showtime, it was confirmed that there would be exactly two unused tickets.  We were in!  Even better, there were two empty seats in the 3rd row, just a few feet from the stage!

Jerome Levon Avis' drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm
Jerome Levon Avis’ drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm

The concert featured a 9-piece house band (including a 4-piece horn section), plus various special guests…just like the original Last Waltz.  The band’s drummer, Jerome Levon Avis, was the godson of Levon Helm – who was the drummer for The Band!  Other musicians included members of famous bands such as Lighthouse and Blood, Sweat & Tears.

Writing about music is not an easy thing to do.  How do you convey the chill down your spine when a Van Morrison sound-alike has a swinging band and horn section behind him?  When that same band nails a soulful classic by The Band and the whole theatre is singing along like a gospel choir?   It was like that for almost the entire 3-hour concert.  Highlights for us included Bob Dylan’s “I Shall Be Released” and “Like A Rolling Stone”, Van Morrison’s “Caravan”, Dr. John’s “Such A Night” and every one of our favourite songs by The Band:  “The Weight”, “Up on Cripple Creek”, and “The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down”,  among others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

As we left the theatre, we had all of these classic songs (and more) replaying themselves over and over in our heads.  It was plainly obvious that we weren’t the only ones.  Thanks to the kindness of strangers in Cobourg, we had a completely unexpected and amazing experience (“Such A Night”, indeed!) on what was otherwise a dreary, rainy evening.

We didn’t make it to the piano-accompanied silent film screening in the morning…but the film festival is an annual event and we made a mental note to visit Port Hope and Cobourg again next fall.

Fun with Food in Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market district

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

Even though I lived in Toronto for three years in the early 1990s, I cannot claim to have seen all the city had to offer.  In particular, for reasons that are unclear, I never made it to St. Lawrence Market while I was living there.  Given its proximity to Union Station, I have managed to stop by on a couple of recent visits to Toronto.  If you are at all interested in “specialty foods”, I think it is well worth a visit.

Jarvis Street, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto
The corner of Jarvis and King Streets, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto

While the Market clears out as its 7:00 p.m. closing time approaches (that’s when I took the photo at the top of this post), it is extremely busy during the day.  Some of this is tourist traffic but there is still quite a local presence:  tourists generally aren’t showing up at the 7:00 a.m. opening.   Weekends are particularly busy and you may be tempted to give it a pass in the late morning or early afternoon.

I was in search of unusual cheese on this visit.  One of the vendors had lengthy descriptions of its imported offerings and something called “Parrano” caught my eye.  One of its slogans is “the Dutch cheese that thinks it is Italian”, so I asked for a sample.  Indeed, as advertised, it combines the texture of Gouda with the taste of Reggiano Parmigiano…I quickly declared it my new favourite cheese and picked up a wedge to bring home.

"G For Gelato" on Jarvis Street in Toronto
“G For Gelato” on Jarvis Street in Toronto

I also picked up some red Cerignola olives from one of the other vendors.  These are very large and mild-tasting olives but their radiant red colour makes them an interesting, albeit not essential, olive for snacking.

There has been a considerable amount of recent development in the Market neighbourhood.  While not all of it appeals to me, there was one restaurant that I wanted to try:  the innocuously-named “G for Gelato”, specializing in pizza and gelato.  These are two very important foods and I wanted to find answers to two burning questions:  did it live up to its billing as having Toronto’s best gelato?  And did its pizza also attain the heights suggested by its many positive on-line reviews?

My "Prosciutto Contadina" pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)
My “Prosciutto Contadina” pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)

The gelato was excellent.  It’s made on site so it wasn’t cheap…but neither was it extortionate.  I tried two scoops (Dark Chocolate Whiskey and Amaretto DiSaronno) in a cup and I’d have to agree that this was the best gelato I’ve had in Toronto, if not Canada.  There were about 30 flavours and they all were artfully presented.

Although we had intended to have gelato the night before when we had dinner at the same restaurant, our pizzas were quite substantial and we didn’t want to stuff ourselves before the concert.  The pizzas were also very good – certainly in the first tier, with top-quality and well-matched toppings.  Prices were comparable to other Toronto restaurants  but “G is for Gelato” includes taxes in its price.

Friday night in downtown Kingston
Friday night in downtown Kingston

We will definitely return here for more gelato…and, if it is at the right time of day, we will sit down for a no-nonsense but high-quality Italian meal.   Between “G For Gelato” and “Jumbo Empanadas” in the Kensington Market, I always look forward to eating in downtown Toronto!

We expect to go on another road trip next week – stay tuned!

Stevie Wonder in Concert

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

There was a lot of musical synchronicity over the past week.  I wrote about seeing Paul McCartney in concert, received a vinyl copy of McCartney’s remixed “Tug of War” album (featuring two duets with Stevie Wonder), and then went on a blitz of a road trip to see Stevie Wonder perform live in Toronto.

This wasn’t just a “greatest hits” concert:  Stevie was going to perform his entire 1976 magnum opus “Songs in the Key of Life”.  Widely considered to be one of the best albums ever made, despite an extended running length of almost two hours, it spawned both hit singles and “deep cuts” that have had a profound influence on popular music.   Almost everybody knows songs such as “Sir Duke“, “I Wish“, “Isn’t She Lovely” and “Pastime Paradise”…at least by tune, if not by name.

IMG_7275Stevie went onstage at 8:15 p.m. and it was clear that his voice had not suffered over the years.  He also had a huge 36-person band, including a string section, a horn section, a choir, multiple drummers and percussionists and at least 6 backing vocalists.  Songs such as “Village Ghetto Land” were improved from the album as they featured live (rather than synthesized) strings.  Special guests included April Ellington, daughter of…Duke Ellington!  This was a big, big show.

For me, the highlights came fast and furious with back-to-back performances of “Sir Duke” and “I Wish”.  “Sir Duke”, in particular, benefited hugely from the large horn section.  “I Wish”, with its prominent bass, fared slightly less well due to some low-end sound issues but was still memorable.  The low-end issues became rather distracting right before and after the 20-minute intermission but thankfully resolved before too much damage had been done.

IMG_7283While the point of the concert was to play the entire “Songs in the Key of Life” album in order, Stevie did embark on a few tangents. In the first set, he challenged his backing vocalists to match his singing gymnastics solo and without any accompaniment. They all passed the test with flying colours.

In the second set, Stevie played “Ngiculela-Es Una Historia-I Am Singing” with an unusual zither-like instrument called a “harpejji”.   After it was over, he started playing what sounded to me like the chords to John Lennon’s “Imagine” on the harpejji.  He then said that it was his brother’s birthday, to which the audience responded with polite applause.  But it also occurred to me, as someone who probably knows an unhealthy amount of Beatles trivia, that this precise day would have been John Lennon’s 75th birthday.

Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert
Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert

Sure enough, Stevie then said that he wanted to play “Imagine” for his brother, John Lennon.  This definitely wasn’t in the script.  He began playing the song and asked for audience help partway through the song.  It soon became clear why:  he began crying and was unable to sing an extended portion of the lyric.  He recovered somewhat, but wiped away a lot of tears (without apology) before he could continue with the next song.   A lengthy standing ovation ensued and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.

Concerts are obviously big business and Stevie is not a poor man.  But he is still a sensitive man and, 35 years after Lennon’s death, Stevie is still affected by his murder.  He urged the audience to do what they could to prevent senseless violence and intolerance.

Toronto at midnight
Toronto at midnight

Stevie then resumed performing the rest of his famous album with renewed vigour and finished it about 3 hours after the concert began.  He then assumed his alter-ego of “DJ Tick Tick Boom” for the encore and it is difficult to explain exactly what happened next.  To preserve the surprise, I’ll just say that he played snippets of some disco classics, abbreviated versions of a few of his other hits, and finished with a scorching version of “Superstition”  that made full use of the entire band (again with a memorable brass performance).  It was almost midnight when the concert finally ended; Stevie looked like he had thoroughly enjoyed sharing his music with us.

While there were plenty of Stevie Wonder classics that weren’t played (“Signed, Sealed, Delivered…I’m Yours” is one that I would have liked to hear), there simply would not have been enough time.   As with Paul McCartney’s 2009 concert in Halifax, we felt like we were witnessing a part of history.   We’re looking forward to reliving the experience by playing “Songs in the Key of Life” when we get home!

The Long Road Home

(Barrie/Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As much as we enjoyed Goderich, real life beckoned and we still had to find our way back to Kingston. Fortunately, the route was very open to negotiation: the only condition was that we had to stop in Barrie for a couple of nights. I was playing in a hockey tournament there; somehow, my travels had never taken me to this rapidly growing city on Lake Simcoe.

There is no obvious route for travel between Goderich and Barrie. We ultimately decided to focus on Highway 9: this would take us through a lot of unfamiliar towns, would avoid suburban sprawl, would enable a reasonable pace of travel on well-paved roads, and appeared to involve virtually no backtracking.

One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario
One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario

After quickly passing through the village of Lucknow in the pouring rain, the first town we looked at in any detail was Walkerton. It seemed like a nice-enough place; unfortunately, the first thing we thought about was the tainted water scandal that took place there more than 15 years ago.  It was a real tragedy:  7 people died and thousands were sickened in this town of just under 5,000 people.

The weather was starting to lighten up but we decided to press on to the somewhat larger town (7,500 residents) of Hanover.  Something about the place invited us to get out of the car and walk around.  Given the German origins of the town name, I wasn’t too surprised to see a bakery named Schultz.  I was more surprised to also see an extremely well-stocked Dutch deli and grocery store!

The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario
The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario

This store had it all:  Dutch clothing, books, magazines, deli products, and those very specific Dutch groceries that are commonplace in the Netherlands but haven’t quite made it into the Canadian mainstream.  I stocked up on proper atjar tjampoersambal manis and licorice dropjes, which are all becoming harder to find in the Kingston area.  I also picked up a very orange Dutch soccer hat and a self-explanatory book called “Stuff Dutch People Like”.   The customers in front of us even spoke Dutch with the cashier.

While walking down the main street, a man in one of the shop windows waved at us.  He was wearing headphones…it turns out he was broadcasting at Hanover’s radio station!  For all we know, he was about to tell his listeners about some new strangers in town.  We still have a soft spot in our hearts for local radio; we just didn’t expect to see it in Hanover.

On the attack at the Barrie Molson Centre

Perhaps Hanover wasn’t all that different from the other similarly-sized towns we saw on this trip…but chance happenings like the Dutch store and the DJ made it a little more special for us.   While we were in no danger of starving, we also stocked up at the Schultz bakery – you never know when you might need a chocolate cream horn.

Overlooking Lake Simcoe's Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario
Overlooking Lake Simcoe’s Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario

We continued eastward, passing through places like Durham, Flesherton and Stayner until we finally hit Barrie in the mid-afternoon.  After some quick vinyl-record shopping, we switched gears and went into hockey tournament mode for the couple of days. I enjoyed the intense hockey experience (playing 5 games in 44 hours!) but can’t say that I really got a feel for life in Barrie.

Colonel McGrady's Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario
Colonel McGrady’s Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario

After my last game, we reluctantly piled into the car for the home stretch.  More small towns I’ve never visited before:  Bradford, Sharon, Mount Albert…and, finally, lunch in Uxbridge.  We ate at Colonel McGrady’s Pub; I don’t know how “authentic” the sandwich was, but it was the best Philly Steak sandwich that I have ever had.  Lots of grilled peppers but also a barbecue-influenced sauce…it was almost like a upgraded pulled pork sandwich…with steak.

Eating out for a week can start to become tiresome but it’s always great to end a trip on such a high note.  It also compensated for the searing mid-afternoon heat that we felt in villages such as Bethany (see photo at the top of this post).  If we ever find ourselves in those parts of Ontario again, we’ll be sure to stop in Uxbridge  and Hanover to revisit the highlights of the long road home.

Surprising Facts about Goderich

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

Many towns have a central square, but Goderich has an octagon! Each of the vertices has a street running out from it, so that it looks somewhat like a Union Jack when viewed from above…and this is apparently what the town planner had in mind. The edges of the octagon form a two lane (one-way, counterclockwise) street that contains most of the downtown’s shops and services.  In the centre of the octagon is the county courthouse.

The octagon is surprisingly large, but I was more surprised by how disorienting it was. After walking more than one block, it becomes very difficult to figure out where you started and how far you have travelled.

The movie theatre on Goderich's "Octagon"
The movie theatre on Goderich’s “Octagon”

While the octagon was strange, I had a much harder time believing the story of the salt mines.  Goderich claims to have the largest salt mine in the world.  It is under Lake Huron; a huge salt bed was accidentally discovered there  in 1866 when a flour mill owner was searching for oil.  Of course, Lake Huron contains fresh water, which makes it difficult to visualize how a huge salt bed could be found here.  And yet, there it is!

The salt mines at Goderich
The salt mines at Goderich

The salt bed is so huge that it stretches some 5 kilometers under the lake.  Just north of the town beach, a series of blue industrial buildings houses the mining complex.  While “working in the salt mines” has a rather negative connotation to most of us, it is actually a desirable job in Goderich.  The mine currently employs 500 people and there is apparently another 100 years of salt left.  If you use Sifto salt, chances are it comes from Goderich!

Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich
Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich

On our last evening in Goderich, we went to jail.  Voluntarily, of course, and for the purposes of a special interactive Gaol Tour that is offered twice a week during the summer months.   Volunteers from the community dress up in period costumes and set themselves up in various rooms of the (now decommissioned and also octagonal) Huron County Gaol.

The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront
The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront

Not only are they dressed appropriately, they also “exist” in the late 19th century and talk to you as if you are a visitor to the gaol at that time.  References to electricity would, for example, result in complete confusion.  All of the inmates were very interested in the fact that we were from Kingston, as even then they would end up in Kingston Penitentiary if they received a substantial sentence.

One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich
One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich

We learned that many of the “residents” of the gaol were there for the then-crimes of insanity or vagrancy.  Entire families could end up behind bars because one or both parents were accused of vagrancy.   A very large percentage of the residents were also illiterate.   Another striking theme was how bored the residents were.   While they had a relatively high degree of autonomy within their respective cell blocks, there were essentially no learning opportunities or programs to reduce the risk of future offences.

Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich
Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich

We didn’t know about any of these places before we started to research our trip to Lake Huron.  In fact, we didn’t know about the salt mine until we got here!  However, the combination of interesting sights and a proud community made Goderich an excellent choice as a Huronian home base.  Stay tuned for more tales from the road!

Sunsets and a Tornado

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

For nearly two hundred years, Goderich has been famous for its spectacular sunsets.  This town of about 8,000 people lies on the shore of Lake Huron (“Ontario’s West Coast”) and faces directly west.  This means that the sun is clearly and vibrantly visible as it sets over Lake Huron at night. In fact, the sunsets can be viewed twice:  once from the beach and again from the high bluff that overlooks the beach.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

As you can see from today’s photos, I decided to take a lot of photographs of the sunset.  This is one of those “essential local experiences” that I wanted to capture on film.  Both locals and tourists were walking up and down the town’s long boardwalk to view the sunset; many others parked their cars facing west and prepared to watch the sunset from the comfort of their vehicle.  This scene repeats itself every summer night.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

Goderich is well aware of its beautiful sunsets.  Once a week, a group of bagpipers “pipes down the sun”.  Many local artists paint or photograph the sunsets.  Goderich would be perfectly happy if sunsets were the only natural phenomena associated with this well-kept community.  Alas, August 21, 2011 changed all that.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

On August 21, 2011, a Class F3 tornado struck Goderich with almost no warning.  Wind speeds reached an incredible 300 kilometers per hour.  The tornado raced through Goderich’s unique downtown and caused an estimated $130,000,000 in damage in only 12 seconds.

We saw pictures of the wreckage:  it was horrifying, with buildings ripped apart and massive trees uprooted and scattered all over the town.   Miraculously, only one person died but 37 more were injured.

West Street Willy's - We ate at this Goderich Restaurant.  It was rebuilt after the tornado
West Street Willy’s – We ate at this Goderich Restaurant. It was rebuilt after the tornado

The recovery from the tornado has been swift…but not surprising.  Goderich has had a long history of winning titles such as “Canada’s Prettiest Town”.   Meticulously prepared flower beds are everywhere and are signposted with the names of the local residents who are looking after them.  Even though the tornado has obviously changed the face of the town, Goderich is still winning these competitions.

This civic pride is evident everywhere.  The streets and parks are startlingly clean; if a visitor leaves rubbish behind, a local resident is likely to pick it up and dispose of it.

Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario
Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario

About 20 minutes south of Goderich is the village of Bayfield.  The vast number of sailboats in the harbour attest to its popularity with boaters.   It was not hit by the tornado and is recommended in many guide books for its shopping and historic inns.  While the main street is undoubtedly quaint and the village is scrubbed just as clean as Goderich, it also didn’t seem to be quite as real.  As the sweltering heat made shopping a low priority, we decided to return to Goderich for some local ice cream.

Stay tuned for some fascinating facts about Goderich and an unexpected jewel in the middle of southwestern Ontario!