Category Archives: Posts from the road

Moving on to Lake Huron

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

After reluctantly saying goodbye to our turret in London, we took the scenic route to our next destination of Lake Huron…a lake that neither one of us has ever visited.

We started with a quick look at the University of Western Ontario (which now seems to prefer the name Western University of Canada):  it was essentially unrecognizable to me, as it has been more than 20 years since I last visited.

St. Marys even had a massive opera house!
St. Marys even had a massive opera house!

We pressed on to the small town of St. Marys; it is also known as “Stonetown” due to the limestone quarries and huge cement plant.  Many of the older buildings reminded us of Kingston, as many of them were built from the locally quarried limestone.   It’s a relatively busy place, even though it is not on any major highways, and is even the home of the Canadian Baseball Hall of Fame!  For some reason, St. Marys seemed happier than most of the other places we have visited so far on this road trip.

The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario
The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario

Next up was Stratford.  Like London, Ontario (which is located  on the Thames River), Stratford is naturally located on the Avon River.  It also is the host of the Stratford Festival – an annual theatrical extravaganza that focuses mostly (but not exclusively) on the works of William Shakespeare.  There is even a village named Shakespeare a few miles to the east.

Not surprisingly, Stratford caters to a relatively affluent crowd.  I’m sure our ridiculously cheap lunch in St. Marys would have cost us substantially more if we had ordered it in Stratford.  We looked into seeing a theatrical performance here, but nothing really appealed to us.  After wandering around the downtown core, we headed west on Highway 8 to our next destination.

Another large town hall in a small town:  this is in Seaforth, Ontario
Another large town hall in a small town: this is in Seaforth, Ontario

Highway 8 was a pleasant drive through a series of small towns (Mitchell, Seaforth, Clinton) that I knew little about, other than suspecting that they were probably heavily into hockey and curling…and therefore worthy of my respect.  Due to road work in the middle of Mitchell, we selected Seaforth as a place to get out of the car and walk around.  It had some grand buildings (see photo at the top of this post) and an unhurried pace…so unhurried, in fact, that many shops and services were already closed up even though it was only 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon!

An outstanding Thai Beef Salad ar West Street Willy's in Goderich, Ontario
An outstanding Thai Beef Salad at West Street Willy’s in Goderich, Ontario

We arrived in Goderich, our home for the next two nights, just before dinner.  I’ll be writing more about Goderich in future blogs; for now, I just want to say that our dinner at West Street Willy’s was excellent.   It wasn’t a Thai restaurant, but somehow I found a “Thai Beef Salad” that has to be one of the best and most refreshing salads I have ever had.  This Thai thing is clearly getting out of control but I am enjoying it while it lasts.

Our current home:  the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario
Our current home: the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario

We’re staying at the Colborne B&B:  it is an impressive Victorian home perfectly situated in the downtown core.  We don’t have a turret but there are plenty of turrets elsewhere in this fascinating town on Lake Huron.  Stay tuned for more details!

The Roads of Elgin County

(London, Ontario, Canada)

We decided to avoid too much planning on our full day in London. We started off by visiting the Covent Garden Market: a large covered market with (mostly) food-related stalls.  The variety was impressive and I was about to take a nice overhead picture…until I realized that I had forgotten to return the memory card from my computer to my camera.  For me, the market was the highlight of downtown London. We returned there for lunch where I relapsed and once again had some Thai food.

The historic Town Hall in Aylmer, Ontario
The historic Town Hall in Aylmer, Ontario

It was too nice a day to stay in the big city, so we elected to hit the road after lunch (with my camera fully loaded this time) and visit some nearby towns. We started in St. Thomas, home to about 37,000 people. Sadly, it has recently been hard hit by plant closures (including a Ford automobile plant) and the downtown was awash in empty storefronts. We saw quite a bit of this in London’s downtown too: hopefully, things will have turned around by the time of our next visit.

Another view of the pier in Port Bruce, Ontario
Another view of the pier in Port Bruce, Ontario

Moving east, we stopped in the small but relatively prosperous town of Aylmer. It is the home of the Ontario Police College and also serves the surrounding agricultural region. I was very surprised to find both a Dutch deli and a radio station broadcasting in Low German!  We also discovered that there is a substantial Mennonite community here.

An 1854 "cottage" at Port Bruce, Ontario
An 1854 “cottage” at Port Bruce, Ontario

From Aylmer, it was only a short hop to the shores of Lake Erie. We decided to dip our toes in the water at the low-profile waterfront village of Port Bruce (see photo at the top of this post).  It looked like the kind of place where people have been quietly returning for generations…but haven’t been telling anybody else about it and haven’t changed anything.  It was very peaceful for a beach village on one of the Great Lakes.

Sparta, Ontario

Sparta, Ontario

Driving inland once again, we passed through an area with strong Quaker roots and stopped in the historic village of Sparta.  Although the village is quite small now (only a couple of hundred people), it has had a fascinating history and was booming during the 1870s when it had a population of close to 1,500 people.

We decided to continue with the time-traveling theme and visit the New Sarum Diner for dinner.  It is just about the only business in the hamlet of New Sarum today but many years ago there was a whole lot more going on.  The diner used to be a corn-cob pipe factory (!) before becoming a White Rose gas station and diner in 1943.

The 1943 New Sarum Diner in New Sarum, Ontario
The 1943 New Sarum Diner in New Sarum, Ontario

The diner has been operating continuously ever since.  While a slightly more formal dining room was later added at the back, the original diner is still open for business with the original furnishings…and a substantial portion of the original menu!   I kept getting up to look at all of the historic photos and memorabilia;  one of the diner’s old menus was even on display.  One notable omission from today’s menu is “beans and wieners”.

Soda Fountain at the New Sarum Diner
Soda Fountain at the New Sarum Diner

While the seating may not have been that comfortable for 21st century tastes, it was nonetheless a very enjoyable (and well-prepared) dinner.    The original soda fountain is still in place and I just had to have some of their famous rice pudding for dessert.

You can still order Meat Loaf at the New Sarum Diner
You can still order Meat Loaf at the New Sarum Diner

We returned to London for some evening shopping and did a little bit of planning for our departure from London in the morning.   We’re heading towards another lake!

On the Road…to Paris?

(London, Ontario, Canada)

Our summer road trip has begun!

We met some friends yesterday for a hike at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, just outside of Milton. The park is located along the edge of the Niagara Escarpment; some of the trails are at the very edge of the steep cliffs. It’s a little disorienting to have such dramatic views of flat farmland! As most of the trails are in the forest, it’s also a great place to escape the hot summer sun.

Rock climbing at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)
Rock climbing at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)

As we had all worked up quite an appetite, our friends brought us to a recommended Thai restaurant on Main Street in Milton (Canada’s fastest-growing community!). It was an inspired choice: Thai House had a diverse menu and served excellent food. We would happily return there some day.

View from Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)
View from Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)

After a night in the unlikely destination of Mississauga, we set off to the historical village of Kleinburg and the McMichael Collection. This is a very famous collection of Canadian art, with a particular focus on the legendary Group of Seven and Tom Thomson. While this part of the collection was obviously a big draw, we also enjoyed the “new” Group of Seven (actually the Professional National Indian Artists Inc.). This “new” group was formed in the 1970s and included prominent aboriginal artists such as Norval Morrisseau and Daphne Odjig.

Selections from the Group of Seven at the McMichael Collection (Kleinburg, Ontario)
Selections from the Group of Seven at the McMichael Collection (Kleinburg, Ontario)

It felt like the trip from Mississauga to Kleinburg took forever, due in part to the urban sprawl in the Brampton area.  The old part of Brampton was nice enough but the endless suburbs, strip malls and “power centres” were rather discouraging…and doubly so on the way back, as heavy rain lasted for a couple of hours.  We wanted to avoid controlled-access highways such as the 401 but were slowed considerably by the extensive development has taken place since the last time we drove through this part of the province.

Modern arhictecture at the corner of Hurontario and Burnhamthorpe in Mississauga, Ontario
Modern arhictecture at the corner of Hurontario and Burnhamthorpe in Mississauga, Ontario

We finally emerged from the sprawl just outside of the town of Dundas: as we travelled west, our spirits brightened even though the rain persisted.  Our first stop was in the very old town of Paris (another place with a French connection!):  most stores were already closed but it had a quaint downtown (see photo at the top of this post) that we would like to visit again someday.  There was even a store called “A Swiss in Paris”:  I’m sure that there is an interesting story behind this gourmet cheese shop.

Surprising discovery in Paris, Ontario!
Surprising discovery in Paris, Ontario!

Our next stop was in Woodstock.  This is where my car was made and it surprised us with 2 vinyl record shops within a couple of blocks.  Record-shopping is always a fun way to unwind and I managed to find an unexpected gem from the 1980s (thankfully with no “1980s drums”!) before long.

After a long day on the road, we finally arrived in London.  We’re here for a couple of nights and are looking forward to our first proper visit to the largest city in southwestern Ontario.  Our home here is the beautiful Idlewyld Inn just south of the downtown core.  It’s a rambling 19th-century house that has been converted to a rather upscale inn. Our room is spacious and even includes a turret!

Idlewyld Inn in London
Idlewyld Inn in London

After getting our bearings, we went to nearby Wortley Village…and had another great Thai dinner!  This time it was Mai’s Cafe and Bistro; the food was very fresh and well-prepared.   While it was very enjoyable, and Thai is probably my favourite cuisine at the moment, we will try to have some non-Thai cuisine tomorrow.  London has a lot of restaurants; I’m sure that we’ll have no problem finding something!

A day in Napanee!

(Napanee, Ontario, Canada)

As some of you know, we will soon be departing on a road trip…the arrangements have all been made but I’ll keep the actual destinations a secret. As a warm-up, we decided to spend a day in the nearby town of Napanee and visit its annual agricultural fair.

Prize-winning poultry at the Napanee Fair
Prize-winning poultry at the Napanee Fair

Somehow, I don’t think I’ve ever been to any of the local fairs. I visited the provincial Ploughing Match in Joyceville as part of a Grade 4 field trip and might have stopped by the Kingston Exhibition once…but that’s about it.  Being seriously allergic to horses (which was confirmed by accidentally encountering horses at the Canadian National Exhibition in Toronto about 25 years ago), as well as a lingering minor allergies to cats and feathers, has made me reluctant to spend much time around farm animals.

Vegetable competition at the Napanee Fair
Vegetable competition at the Napanee Fair

Anyway, I thought it was time to see a local fair…and to see whether my horse allergies had abated in the intervening years.

We started with the exhibition barns.  I felt kind of scratchy in the poultry barn and in the “rare animal barn” (which contained some ponies) but was fine around the cattle and in the goat/sheep arena.  Quite apart from the allergies, I was reminded of how far removed suburban living can be from rural living and how little we think about where our food comes from.   It was strange to see the cute young alpacas…and remember how much I enjoyed alpaca steak in Peru.

A young alpaca playing hide and seek at the Napanee Fair
A young alpaca playing hide and seek at the Napanee Fair

After looking at the craft and food exhibits, we moved on to the midway (see photo at the top of this post).  We weren’t interested in any of the rides but we did wonder about the demanding lifestyle of those who work on “the fair circuit”.   While it is largely limited to the summer months and early autumn, the days are very long and the workers are always living in cramped portable accommodations in between moves from one fair to the next.

Cows at the Napanee Fair
Cows at the Napanee Fair

After the fair, we thought that we’d visit downtown Napanee and see how much it had changed.  We haven’t been in Napanee much recently, but recalled how its downtown was reeling from the arrival of big box stores (including a Walmart) near the 401 highway.   The last time we were there, it seemed like the downtown consisted mainly of “dollar stores” and empty storefronts.

The County Memorial Building in Napanee - I spent quite a few hours here as a law student
The County Memorial Building in Napanee – I spent quite a few hours here as a law student

I am pleased to report that the Napanee downtown appears to have turned the corner. While some areas are still somewhat patchy, there are plenty of new and unique businesses that offer an alternative to the more generic retailers near the highway.    Many of them were closed for the day by the time we arrived but we both found stores that we want to check out on a future visit.  There were even some interesting new (and independent) dining options downtown.

Dundas Street in downtown Napanee
Dundas Street in downtown Napanee

This is what we’re hoping to see more of on our upcoming road trip.  We’re staying in some historic and characterful places and will try to choose shops and restaurants that aren’t found in every other Ontario town.  This sometimes takes a little more work but the research has been enjoyable.

Stay tuned to see where we end up!

Back on the Rock

(Pouch Cove, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada)

After greatly enjoying the novelty of visiting France, we’ve returned to Pouch Cove for two more days before heading home.   The weather remains cool and dry, at least by Ontario standards.  Many Newfoundlanders are complaining about the humidity!

We paid a return visit to the Afghan Restaurant in St. John’s, this time remembering to take a picture of our food.  An early afternoon shopping trip went well; actually, probably a little too well. We ran overtime and didn’t make it to the Provincial Legislature building until 3:20 p.m…by which time it was too late to have a tour of the legislature.

The Confederation Building in St; John's - home of the provincial legislature
The Confederation Building in St; John’s – home of the provincial legislature

I don’t think we were meant to see the legislature on this trip: when we tried to visit last week, the guide was sick and nobody else was able to give tours in her place. We’re actually starting to amass a collection of “missed” legislature tours: the Nunavut legislature building in Iqaluit was closed for renovations when we were there in 2013, as was the New Brunswick legislature building in Fredericton in 2009.

Vegetarian lunch special at the Afghan Restaurant in St. John's
Vegetarian lunch special at the Afghan Restaurant in St. John’s

I still was able to take pictures of the Confederation Building (which houses the legislature).  It is very distinctive; there is something almost Soviet about it, especially considering the scale of most of the other buildings in St. John’s.  If I had ever been to Warsaw, I would say that it reminds me of the Palace of Culture and Science building there.

Downtown St. John's
Downtown St. John’s

For our final dinner in Newfoundland, we went to Chafe’s Landing Seafood Eatery in the picture-postcard village of Petty Harbour (see photo at the top of this post).  Known far and wide for its fish and chips and seafood specialties, it is a landmark destination that we somehow missed on our previous visits to Newfoundland.  I opted for the shrimp and chips and it was very good:  much fresher than what we are used to in Ontario.

A summer evening in Petty Harbour
A summer evening in Petty Harbour

We were sidetracked on our way back home by another iceberg:  this was a new one, as it was in Torbay and therefore north of the icebergs we saw last week.  We couldn’t get as close to this one but it was still a very impressive sight.  There were no whales frolicking nearby, unfortunately.

Before we knew it, our nine-day trip was over and it was time to head for the airport.  There are still many things that we haven’t done in St. John’s and the Avalon Peninsula, to say nothing of the many attractions in the northern and western coasts of Newfoundland.  And then there’s Labrador…

A distant iceberg, near the East Coast Trail in Torbay
A distant iceberg, near the East Coast Trail in Torbay

We love the cool Newfoundland summers, even if the wind can sometimes wreak havoc with travel plans.  The island’s history is distinct, due in part to the fact that it only joined Canada in 1949.  The people also continue to be the friendliest in Canada and seem to truly enjoy having visitors “from away”.   I’m sure that we will return again someday soon.

What’s up next?  The next major journey will be a road trip during the second week of August.  Until then, stay tuned for more flashbacks and travel-related writing!

More on St. Pierre & Miquelon

(Ville de St. Pierre, St. Pierre & Miquelon, France)

A lot of my photographs of St. Pierre feature colourful buildings. The diversity is striking, even when compared to Newfoundland (which has no shortage of colourful houses). Don’t be surprised if a future blog entry exploits this photographic inventory!

More of the steep and colourful streets of St. Pierre
More of the steep and colourful streets of St. Pierre

As I mentioned in a previous post, we returned to L’Atelier Gourmand for a second dinner. Alas, as it was Bastille Day, the full menu was not available. I suppose this was a good thing, as I tried something that I never eat at home: lobster.   The French description was La fricassée de homard aux légumes, roughly translated as lobster fried with vegetables.   I don’t know if it was the intention, but the sauce tasted a little like a Thai red curry.   Anyway, I enjoyed it and it capped off a rare day of dining on French seafood.

My lobster dinner at L'Atelier Gourmand
My lobster dinner at L’Atelier Gourmand

Visiting a cemetery is always an interesting, if somewhat morbid, way to learn more about a place.  The tombstones tell some interesting stories:  I sure wasn’t expecting to see the Toronto Maple Leafs logo on one of the graves!  Less whimsically, the diverse origins of the St. Pierrais became quite clear.  We saw many Basque names, as well as Spanish, Portuguese and even a few English names.  There were also “adopted” surnames, such as “L’Espagnol”.  Finally, the enduring connection to France was made very clear by the moving war memorial.  Many St. Pierrais have served in the French army.

Memorial to the many St. Pierrais who fought in the two world wars
Memorial to the many St. Pierrais who fought in the two world wars

Notwithstanding the Maple Leafs logo on the tombstone, they are not the most popular team here:  we counted at least 3 Montreal Canadiens bumper stickers while wandering through town.  Canada does indeed have a bit of an influence here!  More prominent, however, were Basque stickers and flags.  I even picked up a Pelota t-shirt that featured a stylized Basque flag, as it was such a common sight here.   To “cap” it off, I also bought a beret.  I didn’t see anybody wearing one but they are made of wool and it was relatively hot during our visit.   Maybe I can wear it on the ice once the curling season starts!

A little bit of Switzerland near the top of St. Pierre
A little bit of Switzerland near the top of St. Pierre

Our last morning was dedicated to some of the more commercial aspects of the islands.  I enjoyed a freshly-baked pain au chocolat at one of the many patisseries, picked up a bottle of cider from Cournouaille (located in northwest France, opposite from the similarly-named Cornwall in England) in the local supermarket, ate a tremendous quiche at Les Délices de Joséphine, and picked up a couple of souvenirs.

View of Ile aux Marins from St. Pierre
View of Ile aux Marins from St. Pierre

We had been dreading the return boat trip, due to the bumpy ride we experienced on the way to St. Pierre & Miquelon.  Fortunately, the seas were very calm; we arrived in less than an hour and the most difficult part of the trip was lining up with the hundreds of other passengers at the Canadian border control in Fortune.

My final thoughts on St. Pierre & Miquelon:  if you find yourself within a couple of hours of Fortune and have a couple of days to spare, it is definitely a worthwhile and eye-opening trip (especially on Bastille Day, even though the stores are all closed).  It really is the closest thing to Europe that I have encountered thus far in North America.

Rocky landscape high above the town of St. Pierre
Rocky landscape high above the town of St. Pierre

I think you would need to spend at least two nights here to fully appreciate it.  We stayed for two nights and didn’t have a chance to visit Miquelon or any of the other islands, nor did we do much in the way of hiking or museum visits.   Just make sure you book your accommodations in advance, make dinner reservations if you want a sit-down meal, and accept that things (including business hours and the electrical voltage) won’t be exactly the same as in the rest of North America.  That’s why we travel, right?

Bastille Day in St. Pierre & Miquelon!

(Ville de St. Pierre, St. Pierre et Miquelon, France)

Our visit to St. Pierre & Miquelon was carefully timed to coincide with Bastille Day.   Known in French as la fête nationale, or just le quatorze juillet, it commemorates the storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, and celebrates the birth of the modern nation of France.  It’s just as meaningful as July 1 in Canada or July 4 in the U.S.A. and this was our chance to experience it without crossing (much of) the Atlantic Ocean.

Residents of St. Pierre & Miquelon are clearly proud to be part of France.  Despite the small population of their territory, there was a full slate of events on July 14.  The central square (place du Général-de-Gaulle) was closed to traffic and was festooned with flags, booths and picnic tables, as well as a concert stage.  Each booth was operated by a different club or organization for fundraising purposes; no commercial operators were permitted within the square’s boundaries.

Bastille Day soccer action between local clubs A.S.I.A. and A.S.S.P in St. Pierre
Bastille Day soccer action between local clubs A.S.I.A.(in yellow and black) and A.S.S.P. (in white and green) in St. Pierre

We were on hand for the “vin d’honneur” proceedings at 12:00 noon.   I’m not sure of the exact reason for this event but it involved the town’s presentation of hundreds of litres of vin d’honneur to those in attendance.  You only needed a cup or a glass…and the volunteers would fill it up for you with kir, a mixture of white wine and crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur).  It didn’t last long:  by 12:20 p.m., the free kir was gone.

Red-shirted volunteers distribute the vin d'honneur (and local cold cuts) on Bastille Day in St. Pierre
Red-shirted volunteers distribute the vin d’honneur (and local cold cuts) on Bastille Day in St. Pierre

The festival booths were mostly set up for food, drinks or games.  The booth operated by the local humane society caught my eye, as it was serving paella.    I’ve never had a proper paella and I thought that I might as well experience it here for the first time.   In addition to some chicken, my helping included shrimp, clams and…squid.   Squid was another first for me and I was pleased to discover that it was actually quite good.   Other offerings included a rather cloudy and apparently homemade spruce beer.

Paella and kir at La Fête nationale in St. Pierre
Paella and kir at La Fête Nationale in St. Pierre

Music, ranging from traditional accordion music to Caribbean zumba workout music, lasted throughout the day.  There were also various sports events.  We enjoyed the fiercely-contested soccer game between the two top local teams.   The game was decided on penalty kicks after being tied up in the final 30 seconds of regulation time.

Pétanque at La Boule du Calvaire in St. Pierre
Pétanque at La Boule du Calvaire in St. Pierre

Ice hockey is also popular here in the winter but the arena was closed for the summer.  Instead, we enjoyed watching some of the pétanque and pelote basque competitions.  Pétanque  (similar to bocce and lawn bowling) is played in a relatively small space, while pelote basque (similar to jai alai and also known simply as pelota) is a game of Basque origin played outdoors on a huge court in front of a huge wall.    It remains particularly popular in Spain, France and anywhere that has a Basque diaspora.  St. Pierre’s pelota court, known as Zazpiak Bat, was built in 1906 and takes up an entire block of the town.

Zazpiak Bat:  the local Basque pelota court in the centre of St. Pierre
Zazpiak Bat: the local Basque pelota court in the centre of St. Pierre

We looked forward to the fireworks display that was scheduled for 10:15 p.m.  However, with fog rolling in, the decision was made to have the fireworks at 9:45 p.m. instead.  We were still eating dinner at that time but we had window seats and could see the fireworks from our restaurant table.

A large crowd remains after the fireworks (and the arrival of fog) at the Bastille Day celebrations
A large crowd remains after the fireworks (and the arrival of fog) at the Bastille Day celebrations

We had a great time helping to celebrate la fête nationale in St. Pierre.  It was interesting to see such a strong connection between France and St. Pierre & Miquelon, despite the territory’s isolation.  Perhaps the distance and isolation make the French identity stronger:  I am not aware of any movement to join Canada or to become an independent state.  Everybody here seems perfectly happy to keep things exactly the way they are.  In fact, in some ways, St. Pierre & Miquelon may even be more “French” than France itself.

Our first evening in St. Pierre & Miquelon

(Ville de St. Pierre, St. Pierre & Miquelon, France)

St. Pierre & Miquelon is a territory in transition. It has a strong maritime tradition but, subsequent to the cod fishing moratorium, it has looked for other sources of revenue. France is now promoting the islands as a tourist destination but its relative inaccessibility and the very short tourist season mean that private investment in tourism is still not that high. On the plus side, this means that there are few “tourist traps” and that most local businesses must also appeal to the island residents.

Colourful houses on the steep streets of St. Pierre
Colourful houses on the steep streets of St. Pierre

Our B&B was reasonably priced and dramatically situated but its almost-Himalayan altitude on the outskirts of town meant that, in order to avoid exhaustion, our trips downtown needed to be very well-planned.  Our first trip was for dinner on the waterfront at a French restaurant called L’Atelier Gourmand; to avoid disappointment, we had made reservations online before leaving Pouch Cove.  This turned out to be a masterstroke, as there were apparently only two restaurants open that evening.

The quiet streets of downtown St. Pierre
The quiet streets of downtown St. Pierre

We don’t often eat French food; I’m really not a fan of foods such as foie gras and the excess (for my taste) of garlic used in Provençal cooking.  However, this dinner was a reminder that it is a mistake to overlook a country’s cuisine simply because some elements do not hold much appeal.

The humble exterior of L'Atelier Gourmand in St. Pierre
The humble exterior of L’Atelier Gourmand in St. Pierre

Our dinner at L’Atelier Gourmand was excellent.  I was hoping to have L’émincé de volaille au citron vert et pommes (poultry with lime and apples) but there was none left.  My second choice was Le filet de porc avec sauce balsamique et framboise (pork tenderloin with balsamic and raspberry sauce) and it turned out to be delicious.  To accompany our meal, we had a bottle of dry apple cider from Normandy…it was also excellent.

My main course at L'Atelier Gourmand in St. Pierre
My main course (filet de porc avec sauce balsamique et framboise) at L’Atelier Gourmand in St. Pierre

For dessert, my choice was La mousse platebière dans sa coque (cloudberry mousse in an edible chocolate cup).  Cloudberries (also known as bakeapples) are rather sweet orange berries found in remote northern locales such as Finland and Newfoundland.   I find them a little too sweet on their own but they were great in a mousse.  The rest of our posse was unanimous in praise of their respective selections too.  In fact, we enjoyed our dinner so much that we made reservations for the following night at the same restaurant!

My dessert:  la mousse platebière dans sa coque
My dessert: la mousse platebière dans sa coque

After dinner, I took advantage of the lingering daylight to “goat” on the steep rocky outcrops overlooking our B&B.   The outcrops were just steep and high enough to give some inspiring views (see photo at the top of this post) over the town of St. Pierre.

"Le Chat Luthier" in downtown St. pierre
“Le Cafe du Chat Luthier”, another cafe/restaurant in downtown St. Pierre

After only  a couple of hours in St. Pierre & Miquelon, it began to feel like we had escaped to the France of our imaginations…with houses and climate from Newfoundland!  There was no Riviera, of course, but there were enough European touches to differentiate this tiny archipelago from the Canadian province that almost surrounds it.

The next day was a very special day for not just St. Pierre & Miquelon but for all of France.  There was anticipation in the air and we were all looking forward to  experiencing this special day as well.  Stay tuned for the details!

Road Trip from Canada to…France!

(Ville de St. Pierre, St. Pierre & Miquelon, France)

France once had an extensive North American empire. While its cultural footprint remains, New France is now represented territorially only by the islands of St. Pierre & Miquelon. The islands form a self-governing overseas territory of France, having a population of just 6,000 people, located about 25 km off the coast of Newfoundland. It changed hands many times over the years, most recently passing back into the possession of France in 1816.  While much of the population claims French descent (particularly from Normandy and Brittany), there is also a significant Basque presence.

Morris the Moose, at the Irving Gas Station in Goobies, Newfoundland & Labrador
Morris the Moose, at the Irving Gas Station in Goobies, Newfoundland & Labrador

I have long wondered what it would be like to visit this most remote piece of Europe.  The stars finally aligned this year and we were able to carve out enough time to make it happen.  It does take some planning:  other than prohibitively expensive flights, the only public access is by ferry from the village of Fortune, Newfoundland.   The ferry runs about once per day in each direction during the “high season” (roughly June to September).  If you’re lucky and the weather cooperates, the trip itself takes about an hour.

Proof that the Irving Gas Station in Goobies is, in fact, the home of Morris the Moose
Proof that the Irving Gas Station in Goobies is, in fact, the home of Morris the Moose

But the port of Fortune is by no means easy to reach.  It takes more than two hours to get there from Goobies (yes, that’s the name), the nearest access point on the Trans-Canada Highway.  Even Goobies is remote; it is a couple of hours west on the Trans-Canada Highway from St. John’s.  All of this must be done by private vehicle:  there is no public transportation.   I kept an eye out for, but failed to see, the legendary moose population of Newfoundland.  Already this year, there have been more than 660 moose-motor vehicle accidents in Newfoundland.

Le Cabestan, the summer passenger ferry between Fortune and St. Pierre
Le Cabestan, the summer passenger ferry between Fortune and St. Pierre

After parking the car in Fortune, we boarded “Le Cabestan” and looked forward to a scenic ocean journey to France.  This did not happen.  We were expecting to combat any potential seasickness by staying outside during the crossing (because of our Icelandic adventure).  Alas, for safety reasons, passengers were not allowed outside the ferry’s cabin.

Sure enough, as soon as we left Fortune’s harbour, the boat started rocking.  Most of the motion was “up and down” rather than “side to side” but the crew were quickly handing out lots of paper towels and white paper bags.  The seats were creaking from the dramatic lurches every couple of seconds.   We closed our eyes for virtually the entire journey, hoping that it would be easier on our brains if they didn’t have to deal with the visual disorientation as well.

Arrival in France!  Ferry passengers proceed to the border control facility upon arrival in St. Pierre & Miquelon
Arrival in France! Ferry passengers proceed to the border control facility upon arrival in St. Pierre & Miquelon

Everything finally settled down about 90 minutes later when we reached St. Pierre.   The flags of France and the European Union greeted us as we disembarked and headed into an old building marked “Douane”.   After being processed by the authorities and receiving a very rare St. Pierre & Miquelon passport stamp, we were in France! Check out the colourful “main street” in the photo at the top of this post.

The harbour of St. Pierre, with the customs and postal buildings
The harbour of St. Pierre, with the customs and postal buildings

Many countries in Latin America use both their own currency and another foreign currency (usually American dollars).  However, St. Pierre & Miquelon proudly uses the Euro…and only the Euro.  Neglect to bring Euros at your peril!  The time is also set one half-hour ahead of Newfoundland time.  And despite its proximity to English-speaking Newfoundland, your trip to St. Pierre & Miquelon will be easier if you are able to speak at least some French.  Any efforts at speaking the language, no matter how inept, will be greeted warmly.

There are many colourful houses in St. Pierre
There are many colourful houses in St. Pierre

Even though it took a bit of preparation, we had a great time in St. Pierre & Miquelon.  My next couple of posts will go into much more detail about the unique experiences we had in this fascinating piece of “Overseas Europe”.

The East Coast Trail

(Pouch Cove, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada)

While Gros Morne National Park on Newfoundland’s west coast justifiably gets a lot of attention, we’ve enjoyed hiking on the east coast too.  Over the past few days, we’ve hiked some very scenic (and very different) portions of the East Coast Trail near the villages of Pouch Cove and Bauline.

Just north of Pouch Cove, Newfoundland & Labrador
The first step is a doozy:  just north of Pouch Cove, Newfoundland & Labrador

South of Pouch Cove, towards Shoe Cove, the trail begins with some very blustery and exposed sections just above the shoreline.  However, the trail then veers steeply upward into some surprisingly thick and lush forest…it felt almost like the coast of British Columbia!  The predominant theme here, however, was the constant roar of the ocean.  It is so loud that I thought I was hearing thunder.

East Coast Trail, just south of Pouch Cove
East Coast Trail, just south of Pouch Cove

North of Pouch Cove, en route to Cape Francis, the trail quickly becomes dominated by rock…some of it quite loose.

Sharp and loose rocks make up the East Coast Trail, north of Pouch Cove
Sharp and loose rocks make up the East Coast Trail, north of Pouch Cove

We scrambled by the evocatively-named Horrid Gulch (site of the 19th-century shipwreck of the Water Witch) and eventually found ourselves with a commanding view of both the remote coast (see photo at the top of this post…and note the size of the hikers on the nearest cliff) and the sprawling village of Pouch Cove.  I was thankful for my hiking shoes here:  the sharp rocks would have been devastating to ordinary running shoes.

North of Pouch Cove on the East Coast Trail
North of Pouch Cove on the East Coast Trail

Next up was the village of Bauline on the northwest coast of the Avalon Peninsula.  Walking around Bauline was like stepping back in time.  Located under a brooding mountain, its steep streets are lined with lobster traps and its harbour seems to be permanently enveloped by a salty mist.  It looked exactly the same as it did when I was here in 2001, with the exception of some new street signs.  While Bauline is by no means an isolated outport, it definitely gives you a flavour of life in a remote and historic fishing village.

Bauline, Newfoundland & Labrador
Bauline, Newfoundland & Labrador

The East Coast Trail here is different too:  the landscape is harsh and there are very few hikers.   Bring strong footwear…and be careful on the roads.  There are apocalyptic potholes on the road between Pouch Cove and Bauline.

Houses near the East Coast Trail access point at Bauline, Newfoundland & Labrador
Houses near the East Coast Trail access point at Bauline, Newfoundland & Labrador

Next up is an exciting an unusual international journey:  check out my next post to find out which country is surprisingly easy to reach from Newfoundland!