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Posts from Kingston, Ontario, Canada

Posts from Base Camp

Travel Flashback: Yukon and Alaska (2003)

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In the summer of 2003, we visited a friend from Hinton, Alberta, who had recently moved to Whitehorse, Yukon. It was my first, and so far only, visit to this northern Canadian territory.

The Yukon River, near Whitehorse, Yukon. It’s big, of course.

The strongest impression I had from the Yukon was the space. It wasn’t completely isolated (the Alaska Highway passes through Whitehorse), but I never had the feeling of being crowded either. The streets were wide and everything just seemed…big. Despite not being on a sea, ocean, or even a lake, even the boats were big (see the SS Klondike photo at the top of this post).

Our train on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, on the way to Skagway, Alaska.

The most “touristy” part of our trip (and thus the most photographed) was our journey on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad to Skagway, Alaska. This railway originally ran from Whitehorse to Skagway, and it was the main route to the Yukon interior during the Klondike Gold Rush. The railway closed in 1982, but then reopened again in 1988 as a summer heritage railway.

Bleak terrain on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad,

During our visit, the first part of our trip was by bus: only the portion from Bennett (B.C.) to Skagway was operational. It now runs from Carcross (Yukon) to Skagway, and there are plans to have it once again run the entire length from Whitehorse to Skagway. There were some anxious moments en route…this is not easy terrain! But we made it to Skagway safe and sound. In fact, the line ends right on the docks where cruise ships stop in Skagway.

Hiking in the Dewey Lakes area, just above Skagway, Alaska.

Skagway is a small town, with only about 1,200 residents. You’re never far from nature, so it is easy to find appropriate hiking trails close to town. As we didn’t have a lot of specialized equipment, we limited ourselves to the Dewey Lakes area.

Hiking in the Dewey Lakes area, just above Skagway, Alaska.

Even though this was close to town, we really felt like we were “off the beaten track”. In some ways, the terrain (and tricky footing) was similar to our hiking adventure on Vancouver Island in 2023.

A saloon in downtown Skagway, Alaska.

Back in town, the local tourist industry really plays up the gold rush days. And with good reason: those were Skagway’s glory days, when the population was around 12,000! We found an old-fashioned saloon, and many other buildings that haven’t really changed in more than a century.

Jefferson Smith’s Parlor, in downtown Skagway, Alaska.

Given the small population, and the popularity of summer cruises along the Alaska coastline, Skagway is really transformed when a ship arrives. The inlet that ends at Skagway is quite narrow, but we still saw some fairly large ships sailing into port.

Between the docks and downtown Skagway, Alaska.

After a couple of nights in Skagway, we returned to Whitehorse. However, our “return” tickets on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad were actually for a bus on the return leg of our journey. I presume that this is to maximize the benefits from the short summer tourist season.

Exploring the coastline on the Taiya Inlet at Skagway, Alaska.

I think our two nights in Skagway were just right for us at the time. One full day of hiking and exploring the town felt appropriate. Since few of the cruise passengers actually stay overnight here, the evenings were very quite and peaceful.

I went through a phase where I would dramatically scale steep rocks.

Coming up – another international adventure!

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Travel Flashback: My most northern destinations

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The summer is a great time to head north. With the long hours of daylight, there is so much more to see! On that note, here are some of my most northern destinations…

Overlooking Iqaluit’s harbour

In Canada, the farthest north I’ve been is to Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut (Canada’s largest territory). After getting over the sticker shock, I developed a much deeper appreciation for the differences between the various parts of Canada. As I wrote in this post about my 2013 trip to Iqaluit, you should take advantage of any opportunity you might have to visit Nunavut. You will never forget it!

“Welcome to Iqaluit”, in the 4 languages of Nunavut

2013 was a great year to go north. Later that summer, I found myself in Yellowknife, the capital of the Northwest Territories. Yellowknife is still connected by road (albeit a very long road) to the rest of Canada, which meant that it had some superficial similarities to other Canadian cities. But, as with Nunavut, I felt that a true Northern experience would require a trip to one of the smaller outlying communities. That remains a travel goal of mine.

Floating houses in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories.

And yes, I’ve been to the Yukon Territory (and Alaska) too! However, so far, I haven’t converted that experience to a post on this blog. It’s a rainy day project of mine to track down some pictures and make it happen. The same goes for my 1999 trip to Harrington Harbour, Quebec, a remote village on the north shore of St. Lawrence River (near Labrador).

Downtown Grímsey, right beside the Arctic Circle

Despite living in Canada, the farthest north I’ve ever been was in…Iceland! In 2008, we spent a remarkable two weeks there. We even made it to Grimsey, an island north of the Arctic Circle. Sure, the journey by boat made us sick, but once again it was an experience that we’ll never forget.

The boat we took back to Balestrand, Norway

On mainland Europe, I’ve been to each of the Scandinavian countries. But within those countries, my most northerly destination was Fjærland, Norway (see photo at the very top of this post). You can find the details in this post about our 2010 adventure in the Norwegian fjords. Interestingly, I wasn’t particularly struck by the “northernness” of this area. It was beautiful, to be sure, but in an Alpine way! Sometimes, it felt like we were in Switzerland rather than Scandinavia.

Broch of Gurness, Orkney

Another northern destination that left an impact on me was Orkney, a cluster of islands off the northern coast of Scotland. Like many other northern destinations, there weren’t a whole lot of trees in Orkney. But, as you can see from these two posts (one about ancient Orkney, the other about “relatively more recent” aspects of Orkney), you don’t need a lot of trees to be a captivating place. We haven’t returned yet, but one day we will.

Kirkwall Bowling Green, Orkney – I hope to play here for real someday!

As I reviewed my blog posts about these northern destinations, two common themes emerged: (1) the north is unforgettable, and (2) we’ll return someday and dig even deeper!

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My local haunts in downtown Kingston

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In response to popular demand (and Keith), I’m finally including some pictures from my historic hometown of Kingston. This post focuses on some of my “haunts” in the downtown core.

Amadeus Cafe Restaurant in Kingston, Ontario

Amadeus Cafe has been serving Austrian and German food on Princess Street for at least 30 years now. Whenever I need a fix of schnitzel or smoked farmer sausage, this is a no-brainer. Even the side dishes are excellent, and they have a great selection of beverages on tap. I recommend it without hesitation. But ensure you make a reservation: it can get busy!

Mango Restaurant in Kingston, Ontario

The official name is “Mango Thai & Pan-Asian Cuisine.” I’m usually skeptical of places that “specialize” in more than one type of cuisine, but Mango is actually a good choice for diners who don’t all share the same tastes. It’s conveniently located right across the street from Amadeus, if one of them is fully booked.

Something Else Records (left) in Kingston, Ontario

The team at Something Else Records knows me by name, so I guess I’m at this Wellington Street store quite a bit. It’s more comfortable than your typical record shop, and they’ve made a lot of special orders for me over the years. And there’s a pub, a Caribbean roti place, and a tea room on the same side of the street!

Pan Chancho Bakery in Kingston, Ontario

Pan Chancho Bakery is a Kingston institution. It grew out of the even older Chez Piggy restaurant, about a block away on Princess Street, and even serves food of its own now, too. My favourite treat here is a batch of balsamic mushrooms from the deli counter.

Mio Gelato (centre) and Woodenhead’s Pizza (right) in Kingston, Ontario

After a good meal, or even before, there’s nothing wrong with having some gelato. It’s the right thing to do. And while it’s located on touristy Ontario Street, Mio Gelato has been serving up high quality gelato for a long time now. I’m partial to the intense fruit gelatos, but dark chocolate gelato is really good too (dark chocolate and raspberry is my favourite combination).

The Prince George Hotel, City Hall, and (at back) the old Firehall on Ontario Street in Kingston, Ontario. And the black car clearly just ran a red light.

While I haven’t been there much lately, I also used to really enjoy the oven-fired pizza at Woodenhead’s. Arbre Amore was my favourite kind. Woodenhead’s is right beside Mio Gelato and just a block from City Hall (see above photo, as well as the photo at the very top of this post). This place can be noisy, so be prepared!

While Kingston has a beautiful downtown, I have lots of favourite places outside the downtown core too. I’ll cover some of those in an upcoming post!

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10 years later – what has happened since?

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

During my 2014 travel year, I visited a lot of countries. You can look at the countries and statistics in this post: Travel by the Numbers | Pierre Vanderhout’s Travel Blog.

The first time I have eaten at a place called “La Cucaracha” (13th Avenue, Cathedral Village, Regina, Saskatchewan)

Looking back, it is even more interesting to see where I thought about going (to the point of checking airfares and flight schedules)…but ultimately didn’t visit then. Those countries were: Chile, Argentina, Ecuador, Fiji, French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Namibia, Slovenia, Latvia, Lithuania, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo, Serbia, (North) Macedonia, Russia, Ukraine, St. Lucia, St. Kitts and Nevis, Bermuda, Bhutan, the United Arab Emirates and Greenland. Oh yes, I also wanted to visit Saskatchewan!

A Christmas market in downtown Copenhagen, Denmark, with Christiansborg in the background

Even in 2014, real-life events took some of these countries off the list. And obviously a lot has happened since then. But have I made it to any of those places in the intervening 10 years?

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point (Bryce Canyon, Utah)

The answer is…yes! Most notable was a couple of weeks in South America, where I managed to visit both Chile and Argentina. I also finally made it to Saskatchewan! That was important to me because it was the only Canadian province or territory that I had never visited. Alas, I haven’t yet made it to any of those other countries…before or after 2014. In a way, I suppose that I have been to Slovenia, although it was still part of Yugoslavia at the time.

At the top of Horseshoe Bend (near Page, Arizona)

A lot of my travel since 2014 has been to previously visited countries, provinces, and states. However, I have visited a couple of completely new entities since then: Denmark and St. Pierre & Miquelon, which is a “self-governing territorial overseas collectivity” of France. I certainly hadn’t foreseen those destinations in 2014. And while there aren’t any remaining Canadian provinces or territories to see for the first time, I have since made it to several “new” American states: Nevada, Utah (see photo at the very top of this post), Arizona, and Pennsylvania.

Bastille Day – St. Pierre & Miquelon

Looking ahead, I know I’ll be taking at least two international trips in the next 12 months. Stay tuned to find out if those trips include any of the “2014 wish list” destinations!

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Missed Opportunities?

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From time to time, travel plans get disrupted. Today’s post is about plans that just didn’t work out!

“The Bean” in winter, downtown Chicago (an unplanned stand-in for Memphis, Tennessee)

In a February 2023 post about “Travel Regrets”, I mentioned a couple of plans that were thwarted. These included never making it to Memphis, Tennessee in March 2014, and the July 2016 visa issue that delayed our crossing from Chile to Argentina at a remote outpost in the Andes. Today’s post covers a few more examples.

North shore of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

Weather has played a role in many of my missed opportunities. In August 2014, I had arranged to go on an extended wadlopen (a hike across the muddy sea floor during low tide) from the Dutch mainland to one of the Frisian islands. This day-long activity requires a guide…and also decent weather. Learning of the expected high winds and thunderstorms, the guide decided to pull the plug. While it was disappointing, I still managed to make it out the Frisian island of Schiermonnikoog by boat. And I went for a nice walk around the dunes.

Inside the “Los 36 Billares” billiards cafe (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Poor weather also prevented me from setting foot in Uruguay. During our stay in Buenos Aires, we had hoped to take a boat across the Rio de la Plata to the historic city of Colonia del Sacramento. But nasty weather forced us to back down from that plan and spend another day in Buenos Aires instead. Among other things, we ended up having enjoyable refreshments in a billiards cafe!

Specialty shop in Westport, Ireland. I went in for the vinyl but came out with a book!

Dismal weather also torpedoed my planned ascent of Croagh Patrick, a (relatively) large mountain just outside the quaint western Ireland town of Westport. Rain, wind, and clouds conspired to make that extended trek unpleasant and possibly dangerous. Instead, I explored some local Westport institutions, such as a quaint bookstore and the local “chippy”. It wasn’t the plan, but I still have the book I bought!

The Grand Canyon, on the “Day After”

Another more dramatic weather incident happened in 2019, when I was supposed to descend the Grand Canyon in northern Arizona. Not only did we not go on that much-anticipated hike, we couldn’t even leave our hotel. And the hotel was without power for 24 hours as the state was battered by a fierce blizzard. Unlike the other “missed opportunities”, there was nothing to take the place of the canyon descent. We were cold, unable to travel, and could do little more than ensure we had enough to eat. While we managed a brief visit to the Grand Canyon the next morning, there wasn’t enough time to try even a short descent.

Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro

While weather jettisoned all of the above plans, nature wasn’t always to blame. During my May 2014 stay in Kotor, Montenegro, I signed up for a guided tour to Albania. I thought it would an interesting trip, as Albania had been so isolated before the fall of the Iron Curtain. Alas, I was the only person who was interested and the excursion was cancelled. A small group was interested in heading up to Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, and it seemed to be a reasonable alternative, so I decided to take that trip instead. While the tour guide’s driving was terrifying, I did end up seeing some little-known but spectacular scenery.

Looking straight down at the Tara River (northern Montenegro)

Even if things don’t work out as planned, they (usually) still work out in a different way…the great Grand Canyon Blizzard of 2019 being a notable exception! Sometimes the unplanned alternative even surpasses the original intention. But no matter the outcome, these missed opportunities give me a great reason to go back to some of my favourite destinations.

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Switzerland 2024: The debrief

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After any significant sports competition, I prepare a “debrief” that captures my impressions and learnings from that event. I decided to do the same for this trip…my first significant international trip in four years.

Photo time on the Maulerhubel (above Winteregg, Switzerland)

Firstly – and I don’t think I can overstate this – I am so lucky to have a connection to Switzerland. And it doesn’t get old. I know I’ve taken hundreds (if not thousands) of pictures in Wengen, Grindelwald, and Mürren over the years, but I never tire of taking even more photos in this truly beautiful setting.

More photos…this time at the top of the Gimmeln lift (above Gimmelwald, Switzerland)

And while the slopes in the Zweisimmen area may lack the sheer size that you see at Wengen, it is still special to be there too. Knowing that my ancestors lived on (and worked) these mountains creates a special bond that I don’t feel anywhere else. It is only enhanced by knowing that I am related, however distantly, to many of the area residents!

The fearsome Birg lift station (top left), high above Mürren, Switzerland

But the mountains are only part of it. Beyond the natural beauty is something that doesn’t depend on where you are. Ironically, because holidays tend to be rushed, that something is…time.

View from our lunch spot at the Schilthornhütte, high above Mürren, Switzerland

In the inevitable extended periods of travel, whether by plane or by train, there is time to just…think. I used to think that “dead” time like that was just a necessary evil. But now I think it’s a blessing in disguise because, in our (hectic) daily lives, how often do we get a chance to just think deeply? This trip was great for that.

The ski posse having lunch at the Schilthornhütte…I took the previous picture from where my orange jacket is visible

The “deep thinking” isn’t just about the spectacular Swiss setting. It can be about almost anything. Part of the “deep think” is appreciating all of the great things about home.

Looking from the Schilthornhütte towards the Schilthorn summit (which we would soon visit)

Another part of the “deep think” is prioritizing the opportunities that lie ahead. Prioritizing is something that’s hard to do when you’re running from one thing to the next. But things can become much clearer when you have no cell phone, no internet connection, and no daily living concerns. This is when you discover your true passions and what is truly important to you.

Every direction you look, there’s a spectacular view (Mürren, Switzerland)

So, while I was naturally sad that my time in the mountains had come to an end, I felt energized by (and truly focused on) what was still to come. And isn’t that a perfect way to end a holiday?

Skiing down from the upper Mürren slopes to the lower Mürren slopes requires going through this narrow chasm. It is notorious for difficult conditions. But it is also a thrill to navigate!.

Stay tuned – this is going to be a great year, and it’s only just getting started!

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Travel Tips: some more things to think about

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My previous post focused on the packing list. But there are many other things to think about as departure day approaches. Here are some of them…

Inside the walled town of Kotor, with some of fortifications visible above the city.

Every ounce counts when you’re packing. So, if you’re bringing along items such as shampoo or toothpaste, take a container that is already half-empty (but will still last for your entire trip). 

My “hotel” in Kotor – my room is on the third floor (with open shutter)

Depending on where you’re travelling, you might want to consider registering with your home country’s foreign service. In Canada, that would be Global Affairs. You can tell them where you are going and when. This could come in handy if the local situation gets unstable while you’re there.

Lower part of the walls above Kotor, Montenegro

You can also let your credit card company know about your trip, so that any foreign purchases aren’t irrationally declined. However, some credit card companies are now refusing to record such information, as they claim that their algorithms will detect anything suspicious.

Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro

Speaking of credit cards – consider paying off your balance (and then some) in advance. This might save you money if you should ever require a cash advance on your credit card, because interest gets charged on cash advances right away. But you should always have multiple strategies for dealing with any unexpected expenses.

Climbing the walls above Kotor

Consider getting a little of the local currency before departure. The rates charged at airport exchange booths are usually very unfavourable, and you may not see any other options when you first arrive. Don’t be fooled by boasts of “no commissions” or “no fees”. Those are already built into the exchange rates, even if they aren’t listed separately. If you see a gap of 10% (or more!) between the buy and sell rates, you know that the currency trader is doing very well indeed.

View from my lunch table, overlooking the Bay of Kotor (Dobrota, Montenegro)

Learn your duty/customs limits before you leave on your trip. These are different for every country, and are affected by how long you are away, so don’t rely on others to know which limits apply to you when you return home.

Black Lake, Durmitor National Park (Montenegro)

For overnight flights and/or flights longer than 7 hours, don’t forget to check your airline’s upgrading offers. You can sometimes successfully bid on (or outright buy) an upgrade at a far lower price than you would have paid at the original time of purchase. If your flight is not close to full, and it is not on a route favoured by business travelers, you may well succeed! Paying a little extra for a good night’s sleep can be a great investment, especially when you are going to be very active shortly after arrival.

Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro

Today’s photos are from my 2014 travels in Montenegro. I have no real reason for that, other than the fact that I hadn’t seen them in a while! It’s a small but very beautiful country.

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Travel Tips: don’t forget the packing list!

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As spontaneous as travel can be, it’s a lot easier to be spontaneous when you’ve done the proper planning. Once I’ve selected a destination, I usually have three stages of preparation. The first stage is booking flights and other long-haul travel. I did that several months ago for this trip, and you can read about it here.

Skiing the Matterhorn is pretty special! Zermatt, Switzerland (see also photo at top!)

The second stage is planning accommodation. It’s hard to do this too early. Rates generally don’t fall as the dates approach (and hopefully my own plans don’t change) but, just in case, I try to book only fully refundable accommodation. This takes some work. Sometimes the same hotel has very different rates (and availability) depending on whether you book directly, go through the local tourist office, or use booking sites like booking.com or hotels.com. Of course, booking early makes even more sense if you *must* stay in a particular place…as is usually the case on a skiing trip.

Madonna di Campiglio, Italy

The third stage, and the focus of this post, is my customized packing list. This is very important. And believe it or not, I take my packing list with me. It came in very handy on my 2014 trip to Champagne where some of my luggage was lost by the airline. It was very easy to prepare an itemized list of what was lost, since I already had it in my pocket!

Sestriere, Italy

I have separate packing lists for ski trips and non-skiing trips. My ski list has been evolving since the 1990s, as I figured out what worked and what didn’t. I keep each list and dig it out the next year as a starting point for the new list. A reliable list is essential because taking excess stuff is both expensive (through baggage fees) and exhausting (because you have to carry it everywhere). I generally bring my ski boots to Europe: it avoids dodgy/ill-fitting rental equipment, blisters, and a poor skiing experience. However, they are also bulky. This means I’m already at a packing disadvantage.

Whistler, British Columbia, Canada

When I’m making my list for a particular trip, I need to know two things: (1) what activities am I doing each day, and (2) will I have access to laundry? With that information, I can ensure that I will (1) have the right clothes for each day, and (2) run out of wearable clothes on the last day of the trip. OK, maybe one extra pair of socks and underwear, but that’s it. If I’m in a country with stores, I can always buy more clothes in an emergency.

Zurs, Austria

Outer layers (pants, sweaters) must be worn multiple times…if not, I can’t justify bringing them. Distinctive colours? No…if I need colour, I have blue jeans. Otherwise, I mostly stick to greys and blacks because they don’t clash with anything and it’s hard to damage them if I’m doing laundry. Also – they are less susceptible to stains. And I don’t take any expensive clothes – it’s not worth the risk of loss or damage.

Skiers on the Forcella Staunies piste, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy

I must also know the electrical system of the place I’m visiting. The U.K. and Europe have different voltages than Canada…and from each other! But on top of that, Switzerland often has a extra prong that can thwart generic European adaptors. I have quite a collection of adaptors in my travel closet.

Scuol, Switzerland

The packing list ensures that I don’t forget anything if I run out of time before departure. I put even the most mundane things on the list (passports, the shoes I’ll wear when I leave) because you just never know if you will get distracted at the wrong time.

Between Champery, Switzerland, and Avoriaz, France

And I don’t leave the packing list itself to the last minute. I try to make it about two weeks before I leave. I’ll be thinking clearly, because I won’t be stressed out yet by all the other things I need to do. A well-written list means that packing itself can be done in less than an hour on the day before I leave.

Bracing myself against the fierce winds at the top of the Oukaimeden ski resort in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains

Today’s photos are just random ski photos from places I *won’t* be skiing at this year!

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Travel Flashback – Wales 2005 (Part 2)

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Caernarfon was an excellent base for the second part of our Welsh adventure. After our scenic rail trip to Blaeunau Ffestiniog, we went on a very different rail excursion…to the top of Mount Snowdon!

All aboard! This is the train that takes you up to the top of Mount Snowdon.

Mount Snowdon (Welsh name: Yr Wyddfa) is the highest point in the British Isles…outside of the Scottish Highlands, that is. At 1085 metres above sea level, it isn’t astonishingly high, but it is does offer a unique mountain experience with great views of Wales.

The summit of Mount Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa)

As you might expect, it can get rather crowded at the very top. Everybody wants to go to the summit, which also looks like it has been artificially enhanced by a few metres! But it is still worth braving the crowds (and swarming midges) to gaze out over Snowdonia National Park.

View from the summit of Mount Snowdon

If we had more time on a future visit, I think we would try to ascend Mount Snowdon ourselves. It can be climbed in 4-7 hours, according to online sources. But that wasn’t in the cards on this trip. We had a very ambitious itinerary, including trips to Llandudno and Conwy.

At the bridge leading to Conwy Castle

Conwy is a regional centre on the north shore of Wales. It is probably best known for its famous castle, which was built between 1283 and 1287 as part of Edward I’s conquest of Wales. While it is definitely a ruined castle, it remains a very imposing structure. As you can see from the pictures, we spent a few fun hours climbing in and around the ruins.

A tour group passes through Conwy Castle

In keeping with the breakneck pace of many of our earlier trips, Conwy Castle wasn’t our only destination in Conwy. We spent some time on the waterfront, and also escaped the heat by visiting Aberconwy House.

Chilling out on the top of Conwy Castle

Unlike Conwy Castle, which is very exposed to the elements, Aberconwy House is entirely indoors (and would even be habitable). It is a restored merchant’s house from the early 15th century that now functions as a museum. Throughout the various rooms, you can get an idea of what it was like to live in a relatively prosperous home from that area. It’s quite close to the castle and it is very easy to combine the two sites on a day trip.

Going back through these old Welsh photographs has been very interesting. As I didn’t have a digital camera at the time, I never knew if my photographs would turn out. (And many didn’t – you can see some disasters in this recent collection of bad photos.) Sadly, my pictures of Aberconwy House and the appealing coastal resort town of Llandudno just don’t pass muster. Their absence from this blog is a reflection of my photographic limitations in 2005, rather than a comment on the appeal of those sites.

Coming up soon: my long-awaited Swiss ski trip!

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Travel Flashback – Wales 2005 (Part 1)

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’ve already written about my 2005 trip to Liverpool, England. But that was only a very small part of our summer trip. The next two posts are about the rest of our trip, which focused on Wales.

The waterfront in Aberystwyth, Wales. We stayed in one of these buildings (and climbed the hill behind).

From Liverpool, we travelled by train all the way to the Welsh coastal resort town of Aberystwyth (see also the photo at the very top of this post). It felt somewhat frozen in time: kind of what we imagined a British seaside resort might have felt like a few decades before. We stayed in a B&B located right on the waterfront.

We ventured out of Aberystwyth into this small community

Aberystwyth itself has been somewhat anglicized, as it is a destination for both English tourists and English students (Aberystwyth University). However, you don’t have to go far out of town to find areas that are almost entirely Welsh-speaking.

Like many British seaside resorts, Aberystwyth has a pier with various amusements and rather unhealthy food. We didn’t partake in any of the attractions here, but we knew we’d get another chance soon! And we did climb a nearby hill for a great view of the entire town. Alas, the high winds and rain made my photographs less than brilliant.

The very cosy downtown of Caernarfon , Wales

From Aberyswyth, we took a bus to our next destination: the bustling town of Caernarfon. We were living on the edge a bit more then, and didn’t worry about booking any accommodation in advance. In this case, the gamble paid off: a newly reopened B&B had space and was offering reduced rates because it was so new. It was great! Not only did it look regal from the outside, the interior was just as impressive. It’s always nice to feel like you’re getting a good deal.

Our B&B in Caernarfon, Wales

Caernarfon has a very high proportion of Welsh speakers. Locals use it to communicate between themselves, even though almost everyone speaks English as well. Caernarfon sees a lot of tourists too, particularly as it is home to the massive Caernarfon Castle. The current castle dates back to the 13th century and we spent an enjoyable morning exploring it.

Inside Caernarfon Castle (Caernarfon, Wales)

We stayed in Caernarfon for several days and made it a base for our exploration of northwest Wales. One of our trips was on a picturesque narrow-gauge railroad from Porthmadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog (long after our visit, the line was extended from Porthmadog to Caernarfon).

Tanybwlch Station, halfway between Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog. The train stopped here so that a train going in the opposite direction could pass.

Blaenau Ffestiniog used to be a bustling slate mining town. However, with the decline in mining, the town’s population is barely one-third of what it used to be. As slate has been used extensively, the town is very grey (especially after the vibrant colours of Aberystwyth and Caernarfon). It also rains a lot! While tourism is emerging as a replacement for slate mining, the transition was far from complete in 2005. The vibe near the train station was a little rough and, as a result, we didn’t stay for long. I’m sure this has changed in the intervening two decades. It appears that Blaenau Ffestiniog is now becoming a centre for mountain biking and other adventure sports.

View of Blaenau Ffestiniog from the railway station.

Our Welsh adventures are far from over. Stay tuned for more, including our journey to the very highest point in Wales (and England, for that matter)!