Category Archives: Posts from Base Camp

Posts from Kingston, Ontario, Canada

The other Pierre van der Hout

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Today’s genealogical post is a little different…but there is still a travel element.

I had long assumed that I was the first and only “Pierre Vanderhout” in the world, as our family’s genealogy has been documented in book form back to the mid-1500s and there wasn’t any other Vanderhout (usually written as “van der Hout” in Dutch) named Pierre.  However, it appears that I am not the first person to bear this name.

On February 26, 1678, Guillaume van der Hout was christened in Leiden, the Netherlands. The parents were  Pierre van der Hout and Caterine Pierre. The witnesses were Elizabeth van Danne and Gregoire Cresson. This event was recorded by the “RK Kerk de Zon” in Leiden; the document can be found here (the relevant entry is numbered “9005”).

Typical intersection in Delft, the Netherlands
Typical intersection in Delft, the Netherlands

This was only the beginning of an unusual story.  I couldn’t find any other genealogical information on these names:  there was nothing on the direct descendants of Guillaume van der Hout nor on the direct ancestors of this other Pierre van der Hout.   All I had to go on was the name of the church.  “Kerk” means “church” in Dutch, while “de Zon” means “the sun”.   I didn’t pay much attention to the “RK”;  I had assumed it was a reference to the Reformed Church (a Protestant church that is quite prominent in the Netherlands).

However, some further research revealed an unusual twist.  “RK” was actually a short form for “Rooms Katholiek”, the Dutch words for “Roman Catholic”.   So, the “Sun Church” in Leiden was actually a Catholic church.  That was a surprise, as the genealogy suggested that the first few centuries of van der Houts were all Protestant.

"De Spaansche Vloot" (The Spanish Fleet), a nearly 400-year-old restaurant in 's-Gravenzande, the Netherlands
“De Spaansche Vloot” (The Spanish Fleet), a nearly 400-year-old restaurant in ‘s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands

When we were in the Netherlands last summer, we visited some churches that dated back 800 years.  I decided to find out if the “Sun Church” was still around, as it would be interesting on a future visit to see where this other Pierre van der Hout had once been.  This led to another surprise:  the Kerk de Zon was a secret church!

While the Netherlands was a tolerant country even in the 17th century (attracting persecuted religious groups from all over Europe), tolerance was a relative concept.  Non-Protestants were free to practice their own religion as long as they did not draw too much attention to themselves.  This meant that their places of worship could not be outwardly identifiable as such; they also could not enter and leave en masse.

Nearly deserted beach near 's-Gravenzande, the Netherlands
Nearly deserted beach near ‘s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands

So, was the 17th-century Pierre van der Hout somehow written out of the family tree because of religion?  The multiple French names in the records of the Kerk de Zon provide a more likely answer.

Pierre van der Hout (or his ancestors) probably came from a French-speaking part of Europe and had a different surname.    However, as they continued living in the Netherlands, it was common to adopt a Dutch surname to help assimilate into Dutch society.

Pierre’s family may have picked “van der Hout” simply because it was a common surname in that part of the Netherlands.  However, picking a new name was often very literal.   As “van der Hout” means “from the forest”, Pierre’s original French surname may well have been something like  Desbois or LaForest.

Distant view of Grote Kerk in Maassluis, the Netherlands.  This is the church where my ancestor Isaack Adriaensz van der Hout (born in 1580) placed the keystone
Distant view of Grote Kerk in Maassluis, the Netherlands. This is the church where my ancestor Isaack Adriaensz van der Hout (born in 1580) placed the keystone

While I could not find any other references to the 17th-century Pierre or Guillaume van der Hout, I suspect that the family’s descendants were around for a long time.   Why?  I managed to find a person named “Guillaume Pierre Johann van der Hout” – he was born in 1874 in Delft, the Netherlands (see photo at the top of this post) and is the only other “Guillaume van der Hout” I could locate.

Here, finally, is the travel angle…the only record I could find for Guillaume Pierre Johann van der Hout was an immigration record kept by the police of Antwerp, Belgium.  For reasons unknown, he left Delft to live in another country.  On this page, at number 97.416, you can see how this unusual story continued into at least the late 19th-century.   I hope to investigate this further; in the meantime, it seems that anybody with my name is destined to move around!

[The photos in today’s post are all close to where my namesakes lived in the Netherlands.]

Travel Flashback: The Fjords of Norway 2010

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Our 2008 trip to Iceland was so much fun that we decided to continue our Northern theme and visit Norway in 2010. Once again, we braced ourselves for high Scandinavian prices…and found them! Our trip began in the coastal city of Bergen and ended in the Norwegian capital of Oslo.  In between: lots and lots of fjords!

Hiking above Balestrand and the Sognefjord
Hiking above Balestrand and the Sognefjord

From Bergen, we took a relatively high-speed boat up the Sognefjord to the resort village of Balestrand. The scenery along the way was impressive but not astounding:  near the ocean, the Sognefjord is too wide to make you feel completely surrounded.   Balestrand was still a very pleasant base for our exploration of the area, however, and we were able to explore a number of the narrower (and more dramatic) fjords from here.  We stayed in a characterful hotel overlooking the Sognefjord and had a delightful al fresco dinner in an orchard just down the street.

The boat we took from XXXX back to Balestrand
The boat we took from Fjærland back to Balestrand

Balestrand also had an interesting aquarium with an even more interesting promotion:  a ticket to the aquarium came with a free  canoe rental.   Well, we just had to take advantage of that!  While it certainly wasn’t part of our plan, we can now say that we have been canoeing in the fjords of Norway!

Stave church at Vik, Norway.
Hopperstad stave church at Vik, Norway.

We took two interesting trips from Balestrand.  The first was to the Hopperstad stave church at Vik.  These wooden churches are obviously very vulnerable to fire, so there are only a few surviving examples.   This one is approximately 900 years old and is built on the ruins of an even older church.  Internal photos are not allowed but I can tell you that it is very dark inside.

Rapidly retreating glacier
Rapidly retreating glacier

The second trip was a “Glacier Tour”to Fjærland.  The boat trip to Mundal (the village in Fjærland) was amazing:  the fjords looked like the ones in all the tourist brochures.  The photo at the top of this post was taken on the way.   Alas, the Glacier Tour itself was rather underwhelming.  We didn’t get very close to the glacier itself, as it has been retreating for a number of years but the tour infrastructure (road, glacier museum, etc.) has naturally  remained in the same place.  It was a pleasant day but we will definitely be more selective about glacier tours in the future.

Terminus of the railway to Flam
Myrdal, Norway:  terminus of the Flamsbana railway from Flåm

After a few days in Balestrand, we made the long journey by boat and train to Oslo.  We took the Flamsbana from Flåm to Myrdal; it is advertised as the most scenic train ride in the world.  While it is undeniably beautiful, it is perhaps a little overdeveloped for tourism.  For evidence, see the photograph below.  The train stopped for photographs at a dramatic waterfall and, on cue, a collection of mystical maidens suddenly emerged to the musical accompaniment of a stirring symphony and re-enacted a folk tale.   Very cheesy.

Mystical maidens emerge from the mist on the Flamsbana railway
Mystical maidens emerge from the mist on the Flamsbana railway

Actually, we shouldn’t have been surprised.  The Flamsbana is part of the “Norway in a Nutshell” tour:  it is a highly coordinated (and choreographed) route designed to show some of Norway’s greatest natural highlights.  While it would be fine for somebody who only had a day to see the fjords and mountains, we felt somewhat “herded” on this part of our journey.  We preferred spending a few days in the fjords and exploring on our own.   Norway is a beautiful country and it doesn’t need to rely on gimmicks to impress.

Stay tuned for more flashbacks and other travel surprises!

 

Records on the Road

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Last Saturday was “Record Store Day” and we drove to Ottawa to see what was available in the record stores of our nation’s capital.  It reminded me of the interesting music I’ve picked up in my travels: each record has its own story, above and beyond the actual music.

The photo at the top of this post is one of my favourite finds.   For some unknown reason, the Soviet record label Melodiya decided to release a 4-track EP (7″, 33 rpm) containing seemingly random tracks from Paul and Linda McCartney’s 1971 “Ram” album.  When I was “crate-digging” in a Tallinn, Estonia used record store, I found this pressing from Riga (now in Latvia, but then part of the U.S.S.R.).  While I can’t speak Russian, I know the sounds of the Cyrillic alphabet and was able to phonetically confirm that this was in fact a release from the former Beatle.  I picked up some fascinating Soviet LPs there too…but I’ll keep the focus on 7″ records today, as they are easier to pick up while traveling.

A Czechoslovakian 7" single from Dean Reed, the "Red Elvis"
A Czechoslovakian 7″ single from Dean Reed, the “Red Elvis”

Speaking of the Soviet era, I picked up some fascinating 45s in Prague last September.  Some were just Czechoslovakian pressings of hits by Western artists but the Dean Reed 45 pictured above was something I would never find in Canada.

Dean Reed went nowhere in the U.S.A. as a singer and traveled the world in search of fame and revolution.  He ended up based in East Germany, where he was proudly paraded by the authorities as a genuine American rock star and revolutionary.  He did, in fact, enjoy immense popularity in the Eastern Bloc…at least for a while.  His ersatz-Elvis recordings sound rather hokey now but there wasn’t much else available.  Alas, he drowned under mysterious circumstances outside of East Berlin in the mid-1980s.  If you’re interested in his bizarre story, there is a book (“Comrade Rockstar”, by Reggie Nadelson) about Reed and it has long been rumoured that Tom Hanks would make a movie about this forgotten musician.

Karel Gott's "Beatles" single
Karel Gott’s “Beatles” single

Karel Gott also found success in the Eastern Bloc during the 1970s but, unlike Dean Reed, still enjoys some popularity today.  Like many people who lived during that difficult time, he made certain compromises in order to  preserve his career in a totalitarian state.  The above single does not feature the Beatles, but the A-side is a Czech-language tribute to the Fab Four (although it sounds nothing like them).   I found this single in the same grim record store that yielded the Dean Reed record.  Both were very cheap: I suspect it is because they come from a time that many people would like to forget.

Johnny Clegg's 1987 "Asimbonanga" single was not attracting attention in Helsinki
Johnny Clegg’s 1987 “Asimbonanga” single was not attracting attention in Helsinki

Johnny Clegg is one of my favourite musicians.  Best known in North America for contributing “Scatterlings of Africa” to the Rain Man soundtrack, he bravely led racially-integrated bands during the Apartheid era in South Africa and continues to release genre-crossing and thought-provoking records today.   I wrote about Johnny last year in this post.  Alas, it doesn’t appear that he is very popular in Finland:  I found the above French pressing of his “Asimbonanga” single in the bargain bin of a Helsinki record store.

Reality is stranger than fiction:  the Rutles "I Must Be In Love" single
Reality is stranger than fiction: the Rutles “I Must Be In Love” single

I never imagined that the above single could exist.  The Rutles were a Beatles parody band created by some Monty Python alumni and eventually were the subject of the brilliant rockumentary “All You Need is Cash”.  The soundtrack is also outstanding and highly recommended for Beatles fans.  The parody was so well-received in England that I found this single in a London record shop last November.  It was an unexpected souvenir of the same trip that took me to Abbey Road and various other Beatles landmarks.

Coming up next week:  I’m on the road again!  Using some accumulated Air Miles, I’m visiting a place that I somehow overlooked during my year of extended travel.  Stay tuned for the big reveal!

Who Reads This Blog?

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Have you ever wondered who else reads this blog?  While the blog software doesn’t tell me who specifically is reading the blog, it does tell me in which countries the blog’s readers are located.  So don’t worry – I don’t know who you are…unless you post something!

Incredibly, there have been visitors from 97 countries so far!  Many of these countries have very few views (it would not be reasonable to expect thousands of hits from Vatican City or Réunion) but the numbers are significant for the first 30 or 40 countries.  It should come as no surprise that, by far, the most readers are in Canada.

The Matterhorn, as seen from a small alpine village in the Gornergrat/Sunnegga area
The Matterhorn, as seen from the small alpine hamlet of Findeln in the Sunnegga area

It also probably isn’t surprising that the U.S.A. and the U.K. occupy the second and third positions.  Rounding out the all-time Top 20 are Brazil, Germany, Croatia, the Netherlands, Costa Rica, Switzerland, France, Italy, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Czech Republic, the United Arab Emirates, Spain, Sweden, Peru, Ireland, Poland and Australia.

The rankings definitely change over time.  Croatia really spiked during my visit there last spring but has been falling ever since.  For 2015, I’ve noticed increases in France, Australia, Thailand and Russia…but decreases in the U.K., Costa Rica and the Czech Republic.

My friends will do anything to take the perfect photo of the Matterhorn
My friends will try any angle to take the perfect photo of the Matterhorn

Most notable, however, is where there are *no* hits at all. Given its large population, it is interesting that not a single person from China has visited my site (other than people in the special administrative regions of Hong Kong and Macau, which are tracked separately)…yet I have  numerous hits from nearby Vietnam, Taiwan, Mongolia, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.  Despite significant numbers across Northern Europe, I also haven’t connected with Latvia yet.

The other side of the Matterhorn (as seen from Italy)
The other side of the Matterhorn (as seen from Italy)

One does have to be careful with interpreting the data.  There is an apparently benign but also persistent automated “webcrawler” based in Brazil that is, I believe, exaggerating the numbers in that country.

I can also get information on which “searches” have led to visits to my site.  The most popular search that does not include my name has been “London Oxford Street”.  But multiple views have also resulted from “Megadisco Machu Picchu”, “schöne bilder von Paul Young 2014”, “van der ley cheese Groningen” and “place d’erlon Reims night”.

Arrival at the Valtournenche ski area above Breuil-Cervinia, Italy (just after crossing over from Zermatt, Switzerland)
Arrival at the Cime Bianche ski area above Valtournenche, Italy (just after crossing over from Zermatt, Switzerland)

There are also many searches that resulted in a solitary visit.  Some of my favourites include “abandoned wood bobsled”, “context of the movie Invictus South Africa in 1992-1995”, “gray research sound effects console”, “Inus Mor and rabbits sea lions”, “Budapest hockey and soccer teams jerseys”, and “casado con carne en salsa” (as well as plain old “casado con carne”).  If I ever start up another band, I am going to seriously consider calling it “Abandoned Wood Bobsled”.   I am really curious about the story behind that search but it will probably remain a mystery forever.

Another view of the Italian side of the Matterhorn (with lots of tiny skiers below)
Another view of the Italian side of the Matterhorn (with lots of tiny skiers below)

Today’s photos are from my 2011 visit to Zermatt.  I don’t think it would make a lot of sense to do a separate travel flashback for my second visit there…but I did want to share some of these pictures.  If you like them, take a look at my previous post for more words and pictures about skiing in the shadow of the Matterhorn.

Travel Flashback: Skiing the Matterhorn 2010

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The Matterhorn isn’t like all the other mountains.  I had heard that the Matterhorn was special but I didn’t truly appreciate it until I saw the Matterhorn on a cloudless day.  This is what the picture above shows – it was taken from above the village of Zermatt and shows just how distinctive the Matterhorn really is.

Straddling the border between Italy and Switzerland, the Matterhorn rises to an elevation of 4,478 meters (14,692 feet).  This is very, very high but it is all the more remarkable because none of the neighbouring peaks are anywhere close to that elevation.

This picture was taken just after we skied the closest piste to the Matterhorn. One feels very small when skiing there!

Wherever you go in the village of Zermatt, or wherever you ski in the Sunnegga-Gornergrat-Klein Matterhorn ski region, you constantly find yourself looking up at the Matterhorn.   Of all the mountains I’ve seen up close, only Grindelwald’s Eiger (with its sheer rock face of nearly 2 uninterrupted vertical kilometers!) comes remotely close to having such a magnetic effect.   I think we all took at least 100 photos of just this one mountain.

It's very cold and desolate as you near the top of the Klein Matterhorn ski area (and the Italian border)
It’s very cold and desolate as you near the top of the Klein Matterhorn ski area (and the Italian border)

Even without the Matterhorn, however, skiing in Zermatt is quite spectacular.  The pistes on the Swiss side are extensive and there is an impressive vertical drop of about 2,200 meters (about 7,218 feet).   From top to bottom, it can be a 20 km ride!   There isn’t much in the way of easy terrain here and it has a reputation of being a real skiers’ resort.   But even if you can manage the terrain, you still have to conquer the altitude:  the top of the Klein Matterhorn area is a (literally) breathtaking 3,883 meters (12,736 feet) above sea level.

At the top of Klein Matterhorn, just before altitude sickness kicked in!
At the top of Klein Matterhorn, just before altitude sickness kicked in!

I was OK with the altitude when I just skied down from the top of the Klein Matterhorn.  This is glacial skiing and you don’t have to work too hard.  However, on another occasion, we climbed up to the top of a viewing platform for an even higher view.  This extra exertion left me feeling listless for the rest of the day:  I suspect that I had a minor case of altitude sickness…something I’ve never before had while skiing.

The "Hennu Stall"...we stopped here for not quite apres-ski apres-ski on our way down to Zermatt
The “Hennu Stall”…we stopped here for “après-ski” shortly before finishing our descent to Zermatt

There is another reward for going to the top of Klein Matterhorn:  Italy!   Yes, the Italian resort of Cervinia is connected at this high alpine saddle and it is possible to ski on the Italian slopes if you bought the “all areas” ski pass in Zermatt.  The slopes on the Italian side are sunnier and easier…and the food is a nice change too!   The resort of Cervinia has some architectural missteps, to be fair, but it was really fun to end up in another country for a few hours.

Skiing above the clouds!  View from the top of Klein Matterhorn
Skiing above the clouds! Looking towards Italy from the top of Klein Matterhorn

The only problem with crossing over to Italy is that you really need to time your return properly.  If you don’t make it back to the Klein Matterhorn by the time the upper Italian lifts close, you are stuck on the Italian side.  It is a very expensive (hundreds of dollars) taxi ride back to Zermatt, as there is no direct road connection between the two resorts.  Somebody said that it would take “a few hours” by road.

One of the creatures we encountered while skiing down to Zermatt
One of the creatures we encountered while skiing down to Zermatt

For an intense week of skiing in the Alps, I would certainly put Zermatt at the top of my list.  Grindelwald/Wengen/Schilthorn would be close but the presence of other tourist activities (such as the Jungfraujoch cog railway) dilutes the ski atmosphere just a little bit…so it might be a good choice if you have non-skiers in your travel group.   Like most Swiss resorts, Zermatt is not cheap but it is possible to find deals if you don’t insist on a private bathroom.  After all, you’re there for the skiing!  We liked skiing in Zermatt so much that we went back in 2011.

Travel Flashback: Northwest Territories 2013

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After visiting the remote northern Canadian territory of Nunavut in August of 2013, it only made sense to also visit the almost-as-remote Northwest Territories.  Unlike Nunavut, it is *theoretically* possible to drive to the Northwest Territories…but we chose to fly from Edmonton.

As time was limited, we only visited the capital city of Yellowknife and its immediate surroundings.  While we cannot pretend to have experienced the Northwest Territories by visiting its only true city, our visit was nonetheless extremely enlightening.

View of our B&B on the shores of Great Slave Lake
View of our B&B on the shores of Great Slave Lake

We stayed in a somewhat rustic B&B on the peninsula where the original settlement was located.  Much of that peninsula is occupied by Ndilo, a Dene First Nations community; the modern downtown is located to the west.  From our B&B, we could see floating houses (see photo at the top of this post) and floatplanes taxiing, taking off and landing on Great Slave Lake.  Many of the planes were carrying wealthy travelers to remote hunting, fishing or recreation camps.

One of the historic restaurants in the Old Town of Yellowknife
One of the historic restaurants in the Old Town of Yellowknife

Our first substantial meal in Yellowknife was wholly unexpected.  We found a restaurant specializing in Somalian and Ethiopian food.  As it turns out, Yellowknife is home to a large Somalian community and some of them had recently established this restaurant.

On our second day in Yellowknife, we went for an extended walk around Frame Lake.  While the city remained in view for about one-half of the walk, we eventually found ourselves in the barren rocky landscape that I imagined made up so much of the Northwest Territories.

Hiking around Frame Lake in Yellowknife, N.W.T.
Hiking around Frame Lake in Yellowknife, N.W.T.

Our third day in Yellowknife was dedicated to more walking, a bicycle trek, and a tour of the territorial legislature building.   The bike trek took us to Yellowknife’s suburbs – we could just as easily have been in a small Alberta city as the Northwest Territories.

We saw several signs of affluence in Yellowknife.  Canada’s diamond mining industry is based here and demand is high for ethical, high quality diamonds.  However, that prosperity was tempered by evidence of despair:  it was clear that not everybody was sharing in the economic miracle.  Some efforts have been made to ensure that local residents are also sharing in the proceeds of the diamond industry but there were still some signs of culture clash.

Inside the legislature building of the Northwest Territories
Inside the legislature building of the Northwest Territories

There also seemed to be more of an “edge” to the city in the evenings, as one often finds in resource-based boom towns.  Yellowknife is still a young place:  it was first settled in the late 1930s and substantial growth didn’t start until a few decades later.   However, there were some interesting quirks to Yellowknife:  one of the streets was named “Lois Lane”, in apparent homage to actress Margot Kidder (who was born in Yellowknife and played Lois Lane in “Superman” movies).

I met this very docile wolf in a Yellowknife shop
I met this very docile wolf in a Yellowknife shop

As with our visit to Iqaluit in Nunavut, we left Yellowknife feeling that we needed to travel outside of the capital to truly connect with the territory.  While not as large as Nunavut, the Northwest Territories still has an area of 1,346,106 km2 despite only having about 41,000 residents (although it does have 11 official languages).  The vast size of the territory means that a long weekend is not enough…one day, I am sure we will visit other parts of the Northwest Territories and have a completely different experience.

Travel Flashback: Estonia’s Singing Revolution (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In the summer of 2012, we visited a former Soviet Republic for the first time. Today, Estonia is a prosperous, proud and independent nation located right across the Baltic Sea from Finland. However, until gaining its independence when the Soviet Union collapsed, it had endured 50 years of oppression.

Estonia was independent before World War II.  It had a standard of living that surpassed many other European countries…including neighbouring Finland. However, after being forcibly stolen on multiple occasions by foreign powers (both Nazi Germany and the Red Army), it entered a long period of decay.

Estonian Parliament Building in downtown Tallinn
Estonian Parliament Building in downtown Tallinn

The Estonian language (somewhat similar to Finnish) was discouraged and many attempts were made (particularly by the Soviets) to dilute the Estonian identity.  Executions and internal exile to Siberia were common. Yet, through it all, the dream of an independent Estonia persisted…through music.

Prior to visiting Estonia, we watched a documentary called “The Singing Revolution”. Estonia has a rich tradition of folk songs and its song festival was one of the only ways to keep the concept of Estonia alive on a large scale. These festivals also saw their share of censorship and oppression but the festivals still played a hugely important role in paving the way to Estonian independence through non-violent resistance.  It is a very stirring story and I believe the video can be rented locally from Classic Video in Kingston. We enjoyed it so much that we bought our own copy!

Medieval and Modern Tallinn, side by side
Medieval and Modern Tallinn, side by side

Anyway, we decided that we would visit the Song Festival Grounds in Estonia’s capital city of Tallinn.  Tallinn has a beautiful medieval centre and most tourists do not leave the old walled city.  To get to the Song Festival Grounds, we had to walk east for about an hour.  Some of the walk was extremely picturesque (see the “Kadriorg” summer residence at the top of this post, built by Peter the Great of Russia), while some of it was choked with traffic.

The Amphitheatre that still hosts Estonian song festivals today
The Amphitheatre that still hosts Estonian song festivals today

When we finally arrived, we found it unexpectedly moving to walk around the amphitheatre and the seating area, after having seen hundreds of thousands of Estonians gathering here in the documentary.  At one point, there were 300,000 Estonians at the site…approximately one-third of the entire country.

Raekoja Plats in downtown Tallinn, Estonia
Raekoja Plats in downtown Tallinn, Estonia

The amphitheatre was impressive, although objectively one cannot say that it was more striking than the buildings around the main market square in downtown Tallinn.   However, making the connection between the amphitheatre and the Singing Revolution has forever imprinted the Song Festival Grounds in our minds.  Whenever we watch the documentary, it all comes back to life.  It really is a wonderful story…and one that is still unknown to many.

Another highlight of our visit to Tallinn was being shown around a woodsy residential area by a local resident.  We met her through an international postcard swapping organization called Postcrossing and, once again, the personal connection made it an extremely memorable occasion.

Off the beaten path in Tallinn, Estonia.  Perhaps this is called "Crocodile Rock"?
Off the beaten path in Tallinn, Estonia. Perhaps this is called “Crocodile Rock”?

We found that many Estonians were very keen on sharing the story of their country:  in the end, our 5-day visit was much too short.  Other than a day trip to the seaside town of Haapsalu, Tallinn was the only place we visited (there will be another travel flashback on Estonia later).  We hope to return someday and visit the pastoral island of Saaremaa as well as the university town of Tartu.  If you’ve been to either of these places, please feel free to post a comment or drop me a line.

There are more flashbacks still to come…and stay tuned for a surprise journey coming up in April!

Travel Flashback: Northern Italy 2012

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

A few weeks ago, I wrote about skiing in St. Moritz.  However, on that same trip, I was also fortunate enough to visit a couple of very different places in Northern Italy: Varenna and Milan.

Varenna (see photo above) is a beautifully situated small town on the mountainous shores of the Lago di Como (Lake Como). Even in March, the climate is comfortable, despite being so close to the snowy ski slopes of the Alps.  Varenna is quite hectic in the summer months  but in March I was able to enjoy all of the benefits without any of the crowds.  I walked along the lake, shaded from the sun by palm trees, and enjoyed some locally made gelato.

The south side of Varenna, seen from a distance
The south side of Varenna, seen from a distance

Alas, I was only able to spend one night in Varenna.  I look forward to visiting again someday…hopefully, in the pleasant Italian spring.

From Varenna, I took an Italian train to the border town of Tirano and then a Swiss train across the legendary Bernina Pass to St. Moritz.   After 6 days of skiing in St. Moritz and 3 more days of skiing in the relatively unknown Swiss resort of Andermatt, it was time to spend a few days in Milan (Milano, in Italian) before flying back to Canada.

The northern harbour of Varenna - I stayed in the narrow golden hotel at the left.
The northern harbour of Varenna – I stayed in the narrow golden hotel at the left.

Milan is a prosperous, hard-working city in one of the richest parts of Italy.   Much of the city is functional rather than beautiful, but it is still home to a couple of very special sights.

Duomo di Milano
Duomo di Milano

The Duomo di Milano (Milan Cathedral) is massive.  It totally dominates the Piazza del Duomo in downtown Milan.  While the cathedral is still very much an active place of worship, visitors are also permitted to climb up to the roof.  It is a very strange sensation to climb up to and around the roof of such a large building, let alone such a large cathedral.

Almost at the top of the Duomo di Milano
Almost at the top of the Duomo di Milano

Although we had to pass through some relatively heavy security at the Cathedral, it was possible to just show up and visit.  Our other major destination in Milan required much more planning.

On the top of the Duomo di Milano. Very cheesy.
On the top of the Duomo di Milano. A very cheesy photo.

We purchased our tickets to the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie several months in advance, committing to a very specific date and time.  It was not possible to just show up, as the site was unable to accommodate all of the people who wanted to see it.   Why?  The refectory is the home of Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”,  one of the most famous works of art in the world.

Designed in 1861, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan is one of the world's oldest shopping malls. Prada on the left, Louis Vuitton on the right.
Designed in 1861, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan is one of the world’s oldest shopping malls. Today, Prada is on the left and Louis Vuitton on the right.

By passing through a complicated series of doors and climate-controlled rooms, we were suddenly looking at “The Last Supper”.  There were only about 12 of us and we were permitted to stay for 15 minutes.  While photographs are absolutely forbidden, I can say that “The Last Supper” is very big, as it occupies an entire wall of the chapel.  After seeing so many images of it in miniature, the size and scope was quite a surprise.

Porta Sempione ("Arch of Peace"), near our hotel in Milan
Arco della Pace (“Arch of Peace”), near our hotel in Milan

Even though it has been deteriorating almost since the day it was completed in 1498 (due in part to the materials used by da Vinci), “The Last Supper” is still an extremely impressive sight.  As with Michelangelo’s ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, it is a religious work of art that can also be enjoyed simply as a great artistic achievement.  It was very special to see this mural in the exact spot that it was created more than 500 years ago.

Jumping back to the present:  it’s time to travel again!  I’ll be spending the next week in another one of those places that I really should have visited before…but somehow never got around to it.  Stay tuned!

Travel Flashback: Iqaluit, Nunavut (August 2013)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

This was quite different from our usual summer holiday destinations.  After picking us up from Iqaluit’s airport, the hotel’s shuttle bus driver refused to believe that we were just there for fun. It seems that everybody from the south who visits Iqaluit is there for business or government reasons.  The few tourists who fly here usually continue onward to more remote Nunavut communities.

"Welcome to Iqaluit", in the 4 languages of Nunavut
“Welcome to Iqaluit”, in the 4 languages of Nunavut

But maybe I should back up a little bit. What is Nunavut? It is a massive territory of about 2 million square kilometers occupying the coldest and most remote part of Canada.  If it were a country,  Nunavut would be the 15th largest country in the world.  Despite its massive size, only about 32,000 people live in the entire territory…and, unless you happen to be on a very large cargo ship during the one ice-free month of the year, the only way in is to fly.   You cannot drive to Nunavut.

Overlooking Iqaluit's harbour
Overlooking Iqaluit’s harbour

Even to many Canadians, Nunavut remains a mystery. It doesn’t show up on any old maps because it was part of the Northwest Territories until 1999. Of the 32,000 people, approximately 84% are Inuit. Inuktitut is the language most commonly spoken.  Iqaluit is the capital and largest city, although it has fewer than 7,000 inhabitants.

Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park, at the edge of Iqaluit
Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park, at the edge of Iqaluit

Our shuttle bus driver was correct:  we didn’t see many other tourists in Nunavut.   It is very expensive to get there:  unless you buy your tickets on the annual “seat sale” day in February (which we did, irrevocably committing to our trip 6 months in advance), it will cost you more to take the 3 hour domestic  flight from Ottawa than it would to fly 8 hours to Europe.   Because almost everything has to be flown in, the costs get worse once you are there.  Would you believe $12 for a 2L soft drink at the grocery store?   In general, prices are double to triple what you would expect to pay in southern Canada.

Looking away from Iqaluit's harbour
Looking away from Iqaluit’s harbour

Despite all that, visiting Iqaluit was a remarkable experience.  20 years ago, it was only a small village.  It has at least doubled in size since then.   Even so, the land around the city is so…endless.   And empty.  It only took a 15-minute walk in any direction to be  utterly alone.   Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park (just past the airport – see photo at the top of this post) was typical: desolate, beautiful, and vast in every sense of the word.

We gained a profound appreciation for the power of nature: we came across lots of animal skeletons during our walks.   With temperatures plummeting to near 0’C on summer nights, heat was rarely a problem.

Cemetery near the edge of Iqaluit, at the start of the coastal trail to Apex
Cemetery near the edge of Iqaluit, at the start of the coastal trail to Apex

Rather than craving heat, however, we found ourselves craving wind.  When the winds blow, which is often, the insect threat is neutralized.  However, when the wind lets up and the sun shines, the voracious mosquitoes and blackflies become oppressive.  Not only were these insects huge and hungry, they roamed in massive packs and were only mildly deterred by industrial strength insect repellent.  We went through an entire bottle of “Deep Woods Off!” in a single two hour walk along the coast.

Abandoned buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company, in front of the hamlet of Apex
Abandoned buildings of the Hudson’s Bay Company, in front of the hamlet of Apex

We really enjoyed our walks to the Territorial Park and the “suburb” of Apex (about 5 km from Iqaluit).   While there weren’t a lot of touristy things to do in Iqaluit, visiting Nunavut is more about experiencing the land than about seeing urban sights.  Although we did visit the craft stores and the museum, we found everyday tasks such as buying stamps and grocery shopping to be just as interesting.

Even though they are in the same country, the differences between Kingston and Iqaluit are far greater than the differences between Kingston and a similarly-sized town in, for example, Sweden.  Great travel can really make you think – here, we found ourselves asking what being “Canadian” really means.

A high school in Iqaluit - possibly from the 1970s!
Night view of Inuksuk High School in Iqaluit – possibly built in the 1970s!

If you ever get the chance to go to Nunavut, I highly recommend taking advantage of the opportunity.  Even better would be to also visit a community outside of Iqaluit, to see what a more traditional Inuit community is like.   We’d like to see Pangnirtung someday:  apparently, its setting in the mountains and on Pangnirtung Fjord is spectacular.   However, even if you only visit Iqaluit, a trip to Nunavut will still leave a vivid impression on you.  And you can even get a decent shawarma while you’re there:  you’ll find a Lebanese take-out place just outside the airport.

Travel Flashback: Arson in Quebec 2009

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Most trips are unconditionally enjoyable. However, our ski trip to Baie-St-Paul and Quebec City, Quebec in March of 2009 was beset by a few problems.

First, it was absolutely frigid, particularly for mid-March. This took some of the thrill out of high-speed alpine skiing.  Second, the “daily” ski bus that was supposed to take me from Baie-St-Paul to Le Massif stopped running on weekdays. Third, and worst of all, an arsonist torched our B&B in Baie-St-Paul.

Even on March 16, the snowbanks are as high as a telephone booth
Even on March 16, the snowbanks were still almost as high as a telephone booth

The cold was fierce but manageable, as Le Massif’s on-hill food and beverage offerings were better than those found at other Eastern Canadian ski areas. Although it was necessary to retreat inside every hour or so, I enjoyed lots of delicious hot chocolate. The second problem (caused partly by not reading the fine print on the bus schedule) turned out to be moot, because of the third problem.

It was Monday evening. After a charming cheese fondue at a Baie-St-Paul restaurant, we retired early in preparation for a busy Tuesday. We were awakened at 10:45 p.m. by a fire alarm. We are both used to fire drills but this was a little different. We heard a couple of odd noises and lots of anxious-sounding French outside our door. Taking a quick peek down the hall, we saw flames filling the back doorway.

Baie-St-Paul really is a charming place.
Baie-St-Paul really is a charming place.

If you have never been in a burning building before, I can tell you that it is very scary. You cannot reason with fire. You also can’t tell where it is coming from or where it is going. There is only one thing on your mind: not getting caught in the fire. Quickly grabbing one or two items of clothing and hastily putting on our coats and boots, we left behind the rest of our possessions in the room and ran out. We might have had another minute to escape, but who knows?

We were soon taken to a nearby motel that had considerably less charm but, in its favour, was not on fire. We spent a substantial portion of the next day at the local police station, being interviewed in connection with an arson investigation. Not that we were accused: they just wanted to know what we saw and heard. Afterwards, under close police supervision, we were able to retrieve the rest of our belongings from the charred B&B.  Everything was rather smoky but it was nice to finally brush our teeth, put on fresh clothes, etc.

Our B&B in Baie-St-Paul, just a few hours before the arsonist struck
Our B&B in Baie-St-Paul, just a few hours before the arsonist struck

We found out later that the fire had been set by a disgruntled and unstable former employee of the B&B. While we were certainly scared and inconvenienced by the fire, we remain thankful that nobody was hurt. The outcome could have been much, much worse.:  there were about 20 guests in the B&B that night.  The arsonist was eventually convicted of arson and was sent to prison.  While I can’t find the details of the actual prison sentence, I do know that the arsonist’s lawyer was suggesting a prison term of three years…while the prosecutor was seeking a sentence of seven years.

The B&B was rebuilt soon afterwards and we continue to receive e-mail from them to this day.  Alas, we have not yet returned to Baie-St-Paul. I think a few more years need to pass before we are ready for that.  Here is a newspaper story that was written right after the incident, while here is an early account of the criminal proceedings.

Skiing through the trees at Mont-Ste-Anne
Skiing through the trees at Mont-Ste-Anne

After leaving Baie-St-Paul on Wednesday, we spent the remainder of our holiday in Quebec City.  I was able to do some intense skiing at Mont-Ste-Anne; we both enjoyed the (slightly) warmer temperatures and the city’s wonderful dining opportunities.   Our Quebec City hotel was a concrete monstrosity from the 1960s but, in the circumstances, we were willing to settle for a little less character and a little less arson.