Category Archives: Posts from Base Camp

Posts from Kingston, Ontario, Canada

Best Events of the Year

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Travel is partly about freedom…so committing to a scheduled event is not something you want to do too often.  However, sometimes it is fun to anticipate a special event that you would never be able to experience at home.  Here are 6 of my travel year’s top events!

The home of Second City - near Lincoln Park, Chicago, U.S.A.
The home of Second City – near Lincoln Park, Chicago, U.S.A.

1.  Live Second City show in Chicago

I hadn’t planned to be in Chicago this year, much less attend a Second City performance.  In fact, I only bought my ticket 3 hours before the show began.  But when I had a free evening in Chicago, visiting the launching pad of so many comedic careers seemed like the right thing to do.  Just visiting the lobby was amazing, as the photographs show that virtually every comedian started their career with Second City.  The show itself was very funny too; as usual, I found the improv portion to be the funniest.  For some reason, the absurdly absurd  situations really resonated with me!

Reims supporters show their colours
Reims supporters show their colours

2.  Paris St. Germain v. Reims – Soccer Match in France

This one wasn’t planned either.  I was leaving Reims on a Saturday morning and assumed that their Ligue 1 team wouldn’t play until Saturday afternoon.  However, this weekend was the season opener and Reims happened to be playing a very rare Friday night game at home…against Paris St. Germain, the richest (if not the best) team in French soccer!  There were at least 10 national team players freshly returned from the World Cup on the Paris roster, so there was an exceptional level of skill on display.  Even more remarkable was the fact that Reims almost won!  Paris equalized the game midway through the second half, but the Reims supporters were still thrilled with a 2-2 tie.   It was a very exciting game and I had a great seat near the centre of the field.

Celebrating a Feyenoord goal
Celebrating a Feyenoord goal

3.  Heerenveen v. Feyenoord soccer match

This one *was* planned: my cousin belongs to the Feyenoord fan club and I knew seeing a Dutch “Eredivisie” soccer game in Rotterdam was going to be an overwhelming experience.  The crowd was definitely more intense than in Reims (although it was a little disappointed with a tie against underdog Heerenveen) and I will never forget the electrically-charged environment.  It was also great to see the game (and have pre- and post-game refreshments) with my cousin and his family.  I hope to take them to a hockey game in Canada someday.  Speaking of hockey…

Happy to be playing hockey in Hungary!
Happy to be playing hockey in Budapest, Hungary!

4.  Hockey Night in Hungary

When you get a schedule of a bunch of overseas hockey games, you never know which ones are going to be the most memorable.  From my perspective, they kept getting better as we moved from the Czech Republic to Poland to Slovakia.  I’ve already described the game in Slovakia as one of my Top 5 “Wow” moments of the year but the next evening’s Hungarian game was pretty special too.  As you can see from the above photo, I had a great time playing hockey for “Team Canada” on this tour and the Hungarian game was a wonderful “grass roots of hockey” way to wrap things up.  It felt great to be a Canadian: the level of respect and appreciation shown here, as in the rest of our games, was unforgettable.

Paul Young gets saluted by guitarist Jamie Moses
Paul Young gets saluted by guitarist Jamie Moses

5.  Los Pacaminos at the Half Moon in Putney, England

This was booked far in advance and was the “wild card” of my music tour of England.  After getting tickets for a couple of “big name” concerts, I stumbled across a listing for a band called “Los Pacaminos” who were performing in a small pub just southwest of London.  Quick research revealed that this Tex-Mex bar band (see picture at the top of this post) actually consisted of veteran professional musicians and was fronted by none other than 1980s legend Paul Young (“Every Time You Go Away”, “Come Back and Stay”, etc.).  I was mere feet from the stage and had a great time…as did the band, who played none of Paul’s hits but did play fun song after fun song (many of them being Pacaminos originals).   My university band used to play a dismal version of “La Bamba”…so it was fun to hear these guys absolutely nail it!  They only play a few concerts each year; I was exceptionally lucky to see them perform.

View of the Royal Albert Hall stage just before the show (from my seat, no zoom lens)
View of the Royal Albert Hall stage just before the show (from my seat, no zoom lens)

6.  Jools Holland’s Rhythm & Blues Orchestra at the Royal Albert Hall (London, England)

Booked even farther (more than 5 months!) in advance and anticipated to be one of the highlights of my tour, this concert more than lived up to my expectations.  Everything was exceptional:  the legendary and opulent 5200-seat venue was beautiful inside and out, the atmosphere was joyous, I had a great seat in the 12th row and the 20-piece band was excellent.  I never thought that I would hear Marc Almond (of Soft Cell) sing both “Tainted Love” and “Say Hello, Wave Goodbye” with a swinging R&B orchestra, but that’s what happened.   On top of that, renowned soul vocalists Joss Stone and Ruby Turner delivered great sets too.  Both the venue and the orchestra are highly recommended for any music lover visiting London.

I’ve recounted lots of highlights already.  But there are more year-end lists to come!

Food Highlights of the Year – Part 2

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Even though I shied away from some of the more adventurous options (guinea pig, to name just one), the food in Peru was definitely the highlight of the first part of my travel year.  Here are some of the highlights from the second part…

My main course of Momo at Restaurant Tibet in Luxembourg City.  There was more rice and sauce in separate dishes on a burner, but I couldn't fit them into the picture.
My main course of Momo at Restaurant Tibet in Luxembourg City. There was more rice and sauce in separate dishes on a burner, but I couldn’t fit them into the picture.

9.  Tibetan Momo in Luxembourg

I never expected to find Tibetan food in expensive Luxembourg City, let alone such enjoyable and tasty Tibetan food.  It wasn’t necessary to have an appetizer but how could I turn down Bhutanese Cheese Soup?  It was delicious and, with the equally unnecessary yak butter and salt tea, it set the tone for the rest of the meal.  The sauce for the dumplings was properly (but not overpoweringly) smoky and spicy and the dumplings themselves were stuffed with goodness.  This was definitely one of the best “expat” Asian meals I’ve ever had.

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10.  Thai food at a Chinese Restaurant in Zuidlaren (the Netherlands)

My wife and I had a very enjoyable Thai meal with my cousin (and her significant other) in this small town just south of Groningen.  I was skeptical of how well a “Chinese” restaurant would do Thai food, but as you can see the presentation (and taste) was excellent.

Rijsttafel at De Lachende Javaan (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Rijsttafel at De Lachende Javaan (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

11.  Rijsttafel in Haarlem (the Netherlands)

Other than my wife’s dish and rice portion (at far left in the photo), everything in this photo was part of my rijsttafel.  Lots of coconut and chili – and it looked even better in real life, as this photo suffers from the restaurant’s dim lighting.  This colonial legacy is my favourite “Dutch” food:  if you like spicy Asian food, you should definitely give rijsttafel a try!

Bigos in Krakow, Poland
Bigos in Krakow, Poland

12.  Bigos in Krakow, Poland

I had far more expensive meals in Eastern Europe (see below) but this was probably my favourite.  I bought it from the Polish equivalent of a chip truck and ate it at a picnic table from a plastic bowl with a plastic fork…but what a tasty stew! It contained all kinds of meat, sausage and cabbage in a very tangy sauce:  given the significant Polish diaspora, I don’t think it will be long before I try bigos again!

My main course at dinner:  goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny
My main course at dinner: goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny

13.  Goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny (Budapest, Hungary)

By far my most expensive meal in Eastern Europe was this “last-night-in-Hungary” splurge.  I am somewhat distrustful of haute cuisine, but I have to admit that having dessert in my main course was delicious.

Casado carne en salsa
Casado carne en salsa

14.  Casado carne en salsa at Sabor Tico in Monteverde, Costa Rica

Some people criticize the lack of variety in Costa Rican food, as rice and beans are present for every meal (yes, including breakfast).  However, when it is well done, it is extremely satisfying.  This tender meat dish reminded me of Hungarian Goulash with some Latin-American accents.

Cheese-stuffed plantains with a honey-caramel sauce (and ice cream)
Cheese-stuffed plantains with a honey-caramel sauce (and ice cream) in Monteverde

15.  Cheese-stuffed plantain with honey and caramel (Monteverde, Costa Rica)

Little did I know that this last-minute dessert at an almost-deserted hotel restaurant in Monteverde would end up being my favourite dessert of the year.  The plantain was perfect and the slightly salty cheese was a perfect counterpoint to the very sweet honey and caramel sauce.

A delicious "pollo en mole" (chicken in a chocolate/chile sauce) at El Tucan in Ottawa
A delicious “pollo en mole” (chicken in a chocolate/chile sauce) at El Tucan in Ottawa

16.  Pollo en mole at El Tucan, Ottawa

I found this humble family restaurant in the gritty Ottawa neighbourhood of Vanier…and what a find it was!  I have never thought about El Salvador as a travel destination, so I really didn’t know what to expect.  Much of the food seemed like a cross between Mexican and Costa Rican cuisine; the pollo en mole was my favourite (yes, I went more than once).   Once again, dissimilar flavours (chocolate and chili, in this case) combine in an extremely effective way.

Pastilla appetizer at Bedouin (Cambridge, England)
Pastilla appetizer at Bedouin (Cambridge, England)

17.  Moroccan Cuisine at the Bedouin in Cambridge

While my main course was a decently-prepared tajine, the highlight here was the ethereal appetizer you seen pictured above.  Ground warm chicken and all kinds of savoury spices inside, with a cinnamon-and-sugar dusted pastry on the outside, it really could have been the main course by itself.  If the stuffed plantain was the best dessert, then this was definitely the best appetizer of the year.  The atmosphere was cozy too:  the restaurant appears in the photo at the top of this post.

As you can see, there were many food highlights this year.  Stay tuned for some cultural and experiential highlights!

Most Terrifying Moments of the Year

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I am pleased to report that I was never afraid of violence or crime during my year of travel.  However, that doesn’t mean that there weren’t terrifying moments.  I don’t just mean “scary”, as it felt when we saw the skills of our first Czech opponents on our hockey tour of Eastern Europe.  No, these are moments where I was genuinely afraid of what was going to happen.  Interestingly, they all involve transportation!  In chronological order, they are…

The White House, Washington D.C.
The White House, Washington D.C.

1.  Approach to the Reagan National Airport in Washington D.C.

There are two airports in Washington D.C.  Dulles International Airport is some distance away from the city and handles most international flights.  Reagan National Airport is much closer to the city and in fact is connected to the local subway system.  Sounds great…until your plane approaches the runway and you find yourself flying beside buildings, making sharp turns to avoid various no-fly zones (White House, Pentagon, CIA Headquarters), and making a very quick drop to terra firma.  I found out after landing that this airport makes every “Scariest Airport” list.

View of the old town, Trebinje
View of the old town, Trebinje

2.   Bus from Mostar to Trebinje (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

This route links the Federation of Bosnia & Herzergovina with the Republika Srpska.  The first part of the trip was OK.  However, as we approached the Republika Srpska frontier and passed through a few security checkpoints, the driver turned demonic and drove like a man possessed through the exceedingly twisty mountain terrain.  Crazy driving is one thing, but the driver also decided to eat, call friends, smoke, spit out the window and catch up on his paperwork at the same time.

Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro
Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro

3.  Drive to Northern Montenegro

Just a few days after the Trebinje bus, I found myself on an even longer and even more harrowing journey across almost the entire nation of Montenegro (and back again).  The scenery was spectacular but I was focused on surviving the high-speed mountain race in a jam-packed Volkswagen Golf.  I was beginning to think about confining my future trips to destinations with train stations, so I wouldn’t have to endure any more of this motorized madness!

Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik's old town
Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik’s old town

4.  Boat to Cavtat (Croatia)

Dubrovnik is a beautiful city on the stunning Adriatic coast (see photo at the top of this post), although it is quite heavily touristed.  I thought it would be a good idea to visit a nearby small town…but I also decided to go there by boat.  I should have asked more questions about the *type* of boat, as it turned out to be a rather small craft that was tossed around the waves for almost an hour before we finally arrived in Cavtat.  I managed not to be sick – a small victory, but a somewhat miraculous one given the conditions on the water.

Nightfall on the West Strand in Portrush, Northern Ireland
Nightfall on the West Strand in Portrush, Northern Ireland

5.  Midnight Taxi to Portrush (Northern Ireland)

I had a very enjoyable day touring the hidden treasures of Northern Ireland with one of my former bandmates from my undergraduate days.  Alas, midnight arrived very quickly and my only transportation option was a taxi from Limavady back to my B&B in Portrush.  The driver was a really nice guy and we talked about our respective sports interests.  The only problem was that he did this whilst covering the distance in record time on a very narrow highway in near-complete darkness.  I didn’t get to sleep for quite some time after arriving.

As you can see, my terror was more or less confined to the first half of the year.  There were some isolated incidents of aggressive driving in both Peru and Costa Rica too, but I managed to distract myself by talking to others in the tour group.  Distraction appears to be the best strategy!

There are many more lists to come – stay tuned!

Food Highlights of the Year – Part 1

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I ate very, very well this year.   So well, in fact, that it is impossible to compile a single list of my dining highlights…even if I disregard the restaurants where I didn’t take pictures of my food!   As a result, I’ve decided to assemble two food lists and intersperse them with my other “best of” lists.  Here’s the first list of food highlights!

My lunch at Rumerlo - Insalata Carciofi (artichoke, reggiano parmigiano, walnuts, pomegranate, etc.)
My lunch at Rumerlo – Insalata Carciofi (artichoke, reggiano parmigiano, walnuts, pomegranate, etc.)

1.  On-mountain dining in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy

Who says you can’t eat well while skiing?  I’ve always enjoyed European ski food, as the mountain restaurants have a demanding clientele and also need to justify their existence outside of the ski season.  The photo at the top of this post shows one of the best on-mountain places at Rumerlo:  everybody in our group raved about their food.

In this part of Europe, they call it " Bečka šnicla" rather than Wienerschnitzel. (Durmitor Restaurant, Žabljak, Montenegro)
In this part of Europe, they call it ” Bečka šnicla” rather than Wienerschnitzel. (Durmitor Restaurant, Žabljak, Montenegro)

2.  The Schnitzels of the former Yugoslavia

I was so taken with the schnitzels in Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina that I ate them almost every day.  I forgot to take pictures of most of them but the quality was generally excellent and the portions were huge.  Typically, I had already eaten a bunch of the fries before taking the above photo.

"Pierogi Max" at the Café Tachles (Vienna, Austria)
“Pierogi Max” at the Café Tachles (Vienna, Austria)

3.  Perogies in Vienna

I had plenty of Wienerschnitzel before arriving in Austria, so I was more than happy to try something else for my only dinner in Vienna.  I found an unassuming café just outside of the downtown core and was served the best perogies I’ve ever had:  the filling was not mere filler!  Expectations were low but sometimes that creates the best food experiences.

Lemon Chicken at Yung's Chinese Restaurant (Dun Laoghaire, Co. Dublin, Ireland)
Lemon Chicken at Yung’s Chinese Restaurant (Dun Laoghaire, Co. Dublin, Ireland)

4.  Lemon Chicken in Ireland

I rarely eat Chinese food in Canada but I tried it a couple of times in the British Isles.  I found the Irish take to be the best:  I ordered lemon chicken in both Cashel and Dun Laoghaire and each time it blew away any version I had in Canada.  Hardly any batter, lots of chicken and a very tart sauce…not high cuisine, perhaps, but very tasty.

Some very hot peppers/tamales at Huchuy Qosqo
Some very hot peppers/tamales at Huchuy Qosqo

5.  Andean Feast in Huchuy Qosqo (Peru)

This was my first Peruvian feast and it featured a remarkable assortment of dishes.  These peppers were an appetizer but the other courses were extremely tasty and colourful too.  As with the pachamanca meal below, I was completely stuffed but still wanted more.

The pachamanca, just before we helped ourselves (Urubamba, Peru)
The pachamanca, just before we helped ourselves (Urubamba, Peru)

6.  Pachamanca in Urubamba, Peru

This was so good that I’m posting two pictures, one of the “spread” and one of my (first) main course.

My pachamanca main course (Urubamba, Peru)
My pachamanca main course (Urubamba, Peru)

A pachamanca meal is prepared in large pots that are (ideally) cooked underground for hours and hours.  Everything is cooked together in layers:  potatoes, vegetables, chicken, plantains…it is extremely filling but it is almost impossible to stop eating because of the wonderfully intermingling flavours.

Blueberry Alpaca in Aguas Calientes, Peru
Blueberry Alpaca in Aguas Calientes, Peru

7.  Blueberry Alpaca in Aguas Calientes, Peru

I rarely eat red meat but I was convinced to try alpaca in Peru.  I always ordered it well-done and it suited me perfectly:  the taste of well-done steak but much leaner and healthier.  I also had alpaca with a spicy “criolla” sauce in Aguas Calientes and it was almost as good as the blueberry version (but didn’t have the same supersized fries).

My completed lomo saltado - I ate mine with brown rice, but French fries are often added too.
My completed lomo saltado – I ate mine with brown rice

8.  Lomo Saltado, from Cusco Culinary Tour (Peru)

I wrote a long post about my culinary tour of Cusco back in July.  After the tour, we made our own lunch and prepared our own drinks in a real restaurant kitchen.  I ate lomo saltado (an Asian-influenced stir fry) on several occasions but I’d have to say that my own version was the best.   I didn’t create the recipe, of course, but I did tone down the garlic a little bit and took a few other liberties to customize the flavour for my palate.

Peruvian food was likely the culinary highlight of the year…but there is still lots of interesting food to come in the second part of this list!

Top 5 “Wow” Moments of the Year

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Since returning home from my last trip, I have been asked on several occasions to name my favourite trip, place or experience of the year.  My answer changes daily and, yes, I usually say “it depends”!  However, I’ve now put together a number of different lists to try and describe some of the most memorable elements of the year.

I’m starting with the Top 5 “Wow” Moments of the year.  Many of these could also fit into my “Top Experiences” category (coming soon!) but I’ve chosen to separate these 5 because they were unexpected and/or carried an intense emotional rush when they happened.  At each of these moments, I said to myself:  “Now you’re really living!”  Here they are, in chronological order…

Shocked and awed at Forcella Staunies
Shocked and awed at Forcella Staunies

1.  First descent from Forcella Staunies piste above Cortina d’Ampezzo (Italy)

For the past 15 years, my favourite ski piste has been the “Black Rock” piste located just below the famous Jungfrau near Wengen, Switzerland.  The piste parallels a massive black rock and was unlike anything else I’d ever skied.   The scenery is spectacular and the piste is challenging enough to be exhilarating without even considering the scenery.

Now that I’ve skied the piste at Forcella Staunies above Cortina d’Ampezzo, however, I think I have to change my answer.  With massive, towering rocks on both sides (chair lift shown at top of this post), you can’t help staring upwards and marveling at your own insignificance.  Add to that the complete absence of crowds, the deep snow, a sense of impending doom and a long and challenging piste…well, there really is nothing else like it.  It was so awesome, in fact, that I could only ski it a few times.  I was utterly exhausted and began to worry that I would make a bad mistake if I continued.    The picture above says it all:  there really is no other place I’d rather be!

That's 200m straight down, people...Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare
That’s 200m straight down, people…Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare

2.  The crazy part of the Cliffs of Moher (Ireland)

Don’t get me wrong:  all of the Cliffs of Moher are impressive.  But there is one portion north of the main entrance that many visitors never see.  It takes some effort to get there and there are several signs reminding you that you are proceeding at your own risk.  The formerly paved and “fenced” cliff-top trail is now unfenced and little more than a dirt path.

When you arrive at the highest and most treacherous part, you are overlooking the ocean from a height of more than 2 football fields.   It is straight down and it is terrifying.  Even more terrifying is how some people are actually sitting on or leaning over the edge.   I don’t think I’ve ever walked as cautiously as I did here.  At the same time, however, it is so beautiful that I didn’t want to leave.

A "classic" view of Machu Picchu...can't have too many of these!
A “classic” view of Machu Picchu…can’t have too many of these!

3.  First view of Machu Picchu (Peru)

We had to get up at an uncivilized hour and ride a packed bus up a narrow, winding and scary mountain road.  We had to wait for 45 minutes to get through the maddeningly slow line-up at the main gate.   We had to carry a lot of (heavy) water to get us through the day.   Despite all that, it was still a “Wow!” moment to see Machu Picchu for the first time.  And once you get beyond the initial “wow”, Machu Picchu will change everything you think you know about “civilization”.

The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!
Barnstorming through Eastern Europe!

4.  Scoring the opening goal for “Team Canada” in Bratislava, Slovakia

This game was very meaningful for my team and there was a lot of emotion in the air.  We were also playing in a KHL (the Eastern European version of the NHL) arena with all of the luxuries and facilities you can imagine.  There were national anthems and lots of officials.  There was music pumping between whistles and we were wearing Team Canada uniforms.  The ice was fast and the pace of play was faster.

For whatever reason, I was “in the zone” for this one and playing like my life depended on it.  I felt like I could slow the game down and make moves that I otherwise wouldn’t be able to manage.  Scoring the first goal was such an adrenaline rush that I think I actually jumped up in the air when the puck went in.  I never do that – but I did here.  I guess it was a combination of representing my country, doing something I love, and having every element of the game just the way I wanted it.  It was a dream that actually happened.

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5.  Meeting a howler monkey on the Monteverde rainforest canopy (Costa Rica)

It was such a rainy day that there was nobody else on any of the hanging bridges.  I was starting to get discouraged about the apparent lack of wildlife on the canopy tour.  All of a sudden, however, a very large black animal was 20 feet away from me.   I was utterly alone, suspended 40 metres above the forest floor, with an intelligent, unpredictable, non-captive and non-human primate.   We spent 10-15 minutes just hanging out; the monkey didn’t seem to feel threatened at all and I took hundreds of photos.  How cool is that?

Stay tuned for more lists!

Return to Reality

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Waking up at 4:45 a.m. on Monday, December 1 was a somewhat cruel way to start the last day of my travel year.  It was actually kind of fun, though, to dash through the streets of pre-dawn London to the nearest Piccadilly Line tube station (see photo above – it’s Russell Square).  I had a good reason…I needed to get to Heathrow and fly back home.

Russell Square isn't very busy before 6:00 a.m.
Russell Square isn’t very busy before 6:00 a.m.

I thought I would be rather sad about ending what has been a wonderful year of adventure, especially after ending on such an unexpected high note in London.   While there was certainly a slight sense of sadness, or at least nostalgia, I also found myself craving a return to “regular” life.  I was ready to work.  I looked forward to preparing fresh meals at home rather than eating out every day.  I was excited about my upcoming curling matches and hopeful that my slowly-improving shoulder injury would permit a not-too-distant return to the hockey rink.  Most of all, though, I was looking forward to devoting more time to friends and family.

What some people will do to get a photo of the pedestrian crossing at Abbey Road in London...
What some people will do to get a photo of the pedestrian crossing at Abbey Road in London…

Even so, I couldn’t do everything at once.  There was a lot of “administrative work” that needed to be done in short order.   I had to set up a home office for my new job.  Various appointments had been accumulating.  The car needed a tune-up and the driveway needed a lot of shovelling.   The to-do list was very, very long but I was actually excited about tackling it.

Everybody has a travel threshold.  Some can only last a day or two before returning home.  Some need years on the road to “re-charge”.  After about nine months of roughly half-time travel, I had hit my threshold just as I was returning home from England with no further travel plans.  The timing was perfect.

Rather small building at one of London's famed Inns of Court
Rather small building at one of London’s famed Inns of Court

On a couple of occasions since returning home, I have found myself ready to plan some more travel…only to realize that there is nothing left to plan.  There are currently no “bucket list”  items demanding attention.   My wife and I are planning a quick big city getaway in January, and there is a chance that I will go skiing in early March… but there is really nothing that I need to (or can) act on yet.  All I have to do now is figure out what to do with all of the frequent flier points and Air Miles that I have accumulated!  I can always use them on gift cards if nothing else jumps out at me.

Big buses in Piccadilly Circus, London
Big buses in Piccadilly Circus, London

The next few posts will be retrospective.  I’m going to be looking at what I planned to do this year and what I actually did.  It’s always fun to look at lists so I’ll try to compile some highlights of the year.      I will probably also come up with some advice and guidance for anybody who is planning this sort of thing for themselves.  Maybe I’ll even begin to think about where I might travel in the years to come!

King's College Chapel in Cambridge, England
King’s College Chapel in Cambridge, England

If you’re not too interested in revisiting this year, I think you’ll still find something of interest in this blog.  As promised, I will eventually be sharing some photos and stories from pre-2014 trips.  I’ll be liberated from writing in real time and chronological order, so you’ll never know what’s coming next!  Even after all of this time, I still enjoy writing the blog and I hope that enthusiasm continues to show.

Who is Paul Carrack and what does he have to do with this trip?

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

This post includes some additional pictures from my recent visit to Ottawa.  However, the main purpose of this post is to let you know about what’s happening next.

Later today, I will be leaving on another intercontinental flight.  Here’s a long story about one element of the trip…ending with the theme and location of this exciting journey.

In 2003, I saw Ringo Starr and his All-Starr Band perform live at Casino Rama (just outside Orillia, Ontario).  It was the first and only time I had seen the ex-Beatle in concert but he was not the most impressive musician in his band that night.  That honour went to Paul Carrack, an immensely-respected vocalist and musician who has remained relatively unknown because his biggest successes have never been in his own name.

End of the Rideau Canal (closed for the winter) in Ottawa, Ontario
End of the Rideau Canal (closed for the winter) in Ottawa, Ontario

His first big hit was with a band called Ace and a song called “How Long”. The title may not be familiar but the song is immediately recognizable once you hear it.  While it’s by no means my favourite Carrack track, it’s a concert mainstay.   Here’s a 1974 performance of How Long from the legendary Midnight Special television show.

El Tucan restaurant in the Vanier area of Ottawa
El Tucan (a.k.a. “Tukan”) restaurant in the Vanier area of Ottawa

After Ace, Paul Carrack was a member of Roxy Music and then joined the legendary Squeeze as a keyboardist and vocalist.  My favourite song from this era is the classic track “Tempted”.   This clip is from the earliest days of music videos;  the video may not have much flash but I always thought that the composition and performance was ahead of the pack.

Paul Carrack is probably best known as the vocalist for Mike and the Mechanics.  Another mainstay of his live shows, and certainly one of his most emotional lyrics, is “The Living Years”.   There is rarely a dry eye in the house when he performs this live; here is the promotional video for it.

A delicious "pollo en mole" (chicken in a chocolate/chile sauce) at El Tucan in Ottawa
A delicious “pollo en mole” (chicken in a chocolate/chile sauce) at El Tucan in Ottawa

Carrack also writes many songs for other performers.  One of his most-heard compositions (“Love Will Keep Us Alive”) was recorded by The Eagles; here is Carrack’s version.   As for songs released as singles in Paul Carrack’s name, some of you may be familiar with “Don’t Shed a Tear” or “I Need You“.

U.S. President Barack Obama apparently bought some cookies at this Byward Market bakery in 2009.  They're still milking it!
U.S. President Barack Obama apparently bought some cookies at this Byward Market bakery in 2009. They’re still milking it!

So what does all this have to do with today’s journey?  Musicians in Ringo’s All-Starr Band are generally restricted to three songs of their own.  As Carrack stole the show with his three well-chosen performances, I have always wanted to see a full-length solo Carrack show.  Alas, since he is most popular in Europe, he rarely tours solo in North America (although he recently completed a tour with Eric Clapton).   In this year of special travels, it only made sense that I try to see Paul Carrack live…and, as a result, one of my activities on this trip is seeing Paul Carrack perform in a small concert hall on the English coast.

Stay tuned for not only the Carrack concert, but some even bigger surprises on my self-guided music tour of Southern England!

More Fun International Music!

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Several months ago, I posted some links to videos for songs that I have encountered while traveling.  This time around, I’m including links to fun songs I first heard in Canada but would likely be categorized as “international music”.

The first clip is from a brilliant, brave and highly respected South African musician named Johnny Clegg.  He formed his first band (“Juluka”) with another musician named Sipho Mchunu and became a thorn in the side of the Apartheid regime.  Juluka was racially integrated at a time when the separation of races was actually legislated in South Africa.  Clegg went on to form the band “Savuka” and also recorded under his own name but he always maintained racially-integrated bands.  He has produced an impressive body of work in both the Zulu and English languages (generally in the same song)…and he also has a Ph.D. in Anthropology!

My wife and I have seen him (and met him!) in concert twice.  Attending a Johnny Clegg concert is like going to the best university seminar ever, as Clegg provides intelligent commentary on his music and his home country.  Although he enjoyed some commercial success in the 1980s (most notably with “Scatterlings of Africa” from the movie “Rain Man”), I think his latest album “Human” is his most diverse and interesting work yet.   Here’s a track from that album called “Asilazi”:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpn85PlORt4&spfreload=10

If you lived through the 1980s, you undoubtedly remember a song called “Africa” by Toto.  It was a huge hit although Toto’s connection with Africa remains somewhat unclear.  I recently came across an unusual cover version of “Africa” – it is by a band called Tukuleur that has roots in Senegal.   There are two important twists to the cover version:  the verses are rapped and all of the lyrics are in French.  The lyrics and video (filmed in Senegal) are quite positive; check it out here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1Vvx3WdYOo

Senegal has a rich history of music.  Youssou N’Dour was one of the first to be heard in North America but Baaba Maal has also enjoyed some success here.  I was unsure whether a song described as “Senegalese salsa” would work, but it does!  Here’s Baaba Maal’s “African Woman”:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV38a-xlB0k

I bought a CD called “Rock Peruano” on my last night in Peru.  I was looking for a compilation of Peruvian rock/pop music and a helpful record store employee in Lima said that this CD would provide a good cross-section of music from the 1990s.  I bought it without listening to a single note.  When I got home, I found the very first track to be the most compelling.  The Spanish lyrics are about Peruvians who have moved to other countries but it is not necessary to understand the lyrics to enjoy the song.  Here is a link to “Cuando Pienses En Volver” by Pedro Suárez Vértiz:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF9h2i3YDvI

It may seem strange to categorize music from Los Angeles as “international music”.  However, the songs of Ozomatli arise from a collision of musical influences from around the world.  Many of Ozomatli’s songs contain both Spanish and English lyrics, while at least one is in Spanglish!  Unfortunately, they don’t necessarily make videos for their strongest songs, so I’ve selected an odd song in Spanish about poultry.  Here’s “La Gallina”:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyOs50NE8u4

My last major trip is just over a week away and I’ve decided to include one more clue:  I’m going to a place where the weather is almost guaranteed to be horrendous!  It definitely won’t look like the photo at the top of this blog…which was taken two summers ago on the Baltic Sea near Helsinki, Finland.

What’s Next?

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

This question could be interpreted two ways:

1. What is my next trip?
2. What am I doing after my year of travel is over?

As a compromise, I’m going to give half-answers to both of these questions.

Butterfly gives me the evil eye in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
Butterfly gives me the evil eye in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

I’ve already given the following clues about my next trip: (i) it is not in North America; (ii) it is more of an “experiential” trip; (iii) it is the kind of trip you’d think I would have done already, given my hobbies and interests; and (iv) it is at the end of November.  To that, I can add the following:  (v) the dates chosen were extremely important; (vi) my shoulder injury should be a non-factor; and (vii) other than a quick airport transfer, I have never visited the city which is the main focus of this trip.  Any guesses?

The howler monkey who wouldn't look me in the eye (Monteverde Cloud Forest, Costa Rica)
The howler monkey who wouldn’t look me in the eye (Monteverde Cloud Forest, Costa Rica)

As for what’s happening after my year of travel is over…well, it is already happening!  I have already started to work on a part-time basis.  I’m keeping the details out of this blog but I will be updating my employment status on LinkedIn shortly…if you’re connected to me there, you will be able to find out soon.   I’m very happy with how it has all worked out.

Drying out wings in the Caño Negro region of Costa Rica
Drying out wings in the Caño Negro region of Costa Rica

Don’t worry – even after my next trip is over, I will have lots of content for this blog.  I plan to use stories and photos from my pre-2014 travels, with a focus on those places that are a little off the beaten path.  I think you’ll enjoy it just as much as the current real-time blog…and of course I hope to do some travelling (and blogging) during vacation breaks as my job permits.

Egret hanging out in the Caño Negro region of Costa Rica
Egret hanging out in the Caño Negro region of Costa Rica

Thanks for following the blog so far…and I hope you’ll  continue to follow it for the foreseeable future!

 

Food in Costa Rica

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Looking back at my blog posts from Costa Rica, it’s quite apparent that I was fascinated by all of the wildlife that I saw. I hadn’t expected to see so much diversity and to see so much of it in the wild.  While you never hear of anybody going to Costa Rica just for the food, I enjoyed almost all of the food too!  Today’s blog revisits some of the food (and related photos) from my trip.

Except for the fanciest hotel restaurants, dining in Costa Rica was generally informal.  I really appreciated this, as the temperatures were sometimes scalding and anything more than a t-shirt and shorts would have been very uncomfortable for me.

Inside the Restaurante Vara Blanca, somewhere north of San Jose, Costa Rica
Inside the Restaurante Vara Blanca, somewhere north of San Jose, Costa Rica

My first few posts commented on the fact that all Costa Rican meals (even breakfast) appeared to include rice and beans.  For breakfast, they were generally combined and cooked with other vegetables to create gallo pinto.  For other meals, they were usually cooked separately but were still in close proximity on the plate!  The photo at the very top of this post is from my river safari in the Caño Negro region and shows a typical Costa Rican lunch.   In addition to the rice and beans, there was usually meat (chicken, beef or fish), some vegetables and a small salad.

Fajitas in Monteverde, Costa Rica
Fajitas in Monteverde, Costa Rica

As much as I enjoyed rice and beans, I started to get restless and try lunch and dinner dishes that did not feature rice and beans (they were almost unavoidable for breakfast).  Most menus included some “pan-American” cuisine such as fajitas, so I tried that in a couple of places.

Limonada Hierbabuena (Monteverde, Costa Rica)
Limonada Hierbabuena (Monteverde, Costa Rica)

While the water was safe and very good, there were too many interesting beverages to ignore.  Almost every restaurant offered juices, smoothies and milkshakes made from the local fruit.  Pineapples, papayas and passion fruit were especially common, but there were usually about 8 different choices.  I particularly enjoyed the limonada hierbabuena shown above:  it was made with the local lemons (green!) and a variety of herbs (most notably mint).   It was extremely refreshing. I don’t think Costa Rica exports much of its beer but the mild local cerveza Imperial complemented rice and beans quite well.

Very green salad with chicken and Palmitos (Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica)
Very green salad with chicken and palmitos (Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica)

Later on in the trip, I really began to crave fresh vegetables.  The salad shown above had a very tasty dressing and featured lots of palmitos (hearts of palm).  I still needed dessert afterwards but it was a sacrifice I was willing to make.

Cheese-stuffed plantains with a honey-caramel sauce (and ice cream)
Cheese-stuffed plantains with a honey-caramel sauce (and ice cream)

And speaking of desserts:  I generally didn’t need any after a meal with rice and beans, but I did try the occasional dessert after a lighter meal.   I started eating the cheese-stuffed plantains (shown above) before remembering to take a picture:  this was definitely the best dessert I had in Costa Rica.  The salty local cheese was a great counterpoint to the other very sweet ingredients.  And who knew that honey and caramel could combine so well?

This almost finishes my Costa Rican reports.  The only confirmed journey on my horizon is a relatively short (but still intercontinental) trip in just under 3 weeks’ time.  I’ll be dropping the usual hints about that trip, as well as providing some more information on the exciting personal news I mentioned in my previous post.  Stay tuned!