Category Archives: Posts from Base Camp

Posts from Kingston, Ontario, Canada

And the next destination is…

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In my last post, I mentioned that I will soon be taking a very spontaneous and brief overseas holiday.  This was done using some frequent flyer points that I needed to use.   Read on for the big reveal!

Part of the fortifications at Suomenlinna (Finland)
Part of the fortifications at Suomenlinna (Finland)

I usually try to visit places during the “shoulder season”:  this ensures that at least some sights are open but also means that the crowds aren’t too bad and the prices aren’t too high.  Visiting Ireland in early June of 2014 was a prime example of smart shoulder season traveling.  However, for a November holiday in the northern hemisphere, pretty much everything is “off-season”.  Nonetheless, I am determined to make this work.

It won’t be easy.  Firstly, I am actually traveling even further north than my base camp of Kingston, Ontario.  This means that the days will be very short…I’m counting on darkness by 4:00 p.m.

Olympic Stadium in Helsinki, Finland
Olympic Stadium in Helsinki, Finland

Secondly, I’m quite sure the weather will be dreadful.  With temperatures probably hovering around 5’C, it will be cold enough to be uncomfortable (especially with the anticipated dampness) but not cold enough to have a delightful dusting of snow.

View from the top of the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki
View from the top of the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki

Thirdly, many of the sights (especially in the smaller towns) are closed for the season or have drastically reduced hours.  I found one that is only open from 11:00 to 2:00 p.m. each day!  This will require some serious planning and a lot of creativity.

Helsinki's waterfront
Helsinki’s waterfront

My arrival destination is something new and different for me:  despite having been to 30 European countries, I have never been to this one.  In fact, it is the only “western” European country (other than a few micro-states) that I’ve never visited.

So, despite some formidable obstacles, I am very excited to announce that my next destination is…Copenhagen, Denmark!  I’ve got some ideas to make the trip special; I’ve already got a ticket to a sporting event (in nearby Sweden) and will take advantage of the fact that Christmas is a pretty big deal in that part of the world.

Helsinki Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral

Feel free to send me a private message (or post a comment on the blog) if you have any specific recommendations for this trip.  There’s nothing wrong with a little crowd-sourcing!  And don’t forget to check back here soon – it will soon be time for my Danish adventure!  In the meantime, this post is accomapnied by some previously unpublished photos from our 2012 trip to Helsinki, Finland.

Crash Course in Spanish…and Taking a Blog Break!

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a very long trip from Buenos Aires to Kingston (via Santiago and Toronto), we finally made it back home.   Despite some challenges, we had a great time and have an entirely new appreciation of two large and distant countries.  We will certainly return to South America some day!

Boat at Llanquihue, Chile
Boat at Llanquihue, Chile

You may remember my post about taking a “Duolingo” crash course in Spanish just before departure.  We actually kept on taking the courses while we traveled, as this gave us an opportunity to apply what we were learning.  In terms of vocabulary, the app was  a great way to learn a lot of words in a very short period of time.  We felt very comfortable in restaurants; it was also possible to figure out the essence of newspaper articles.  As for non-food conversations…this was a lot more challenging.

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesus. in Puerto Varas (Chile)
Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesus. in Puerto Varas (Chile)

Duolingo was teaching us “Castilian” Spanish:  the Spanish spoken in the Castile region of Spain.  This was fine for reading.   However, there are some very dramatic differences in jargon and pronunciation between Castilian and Chilean or Argentinian Spanish.  To name just one:  the “LL” combination, which is pronounced like the English letter “Y” in Spain or Chile, is pronounced as “SH” in Argentina.  Not even close!

Sea lions in Puerto Montt, Chile
Sea lions in Puerto Montt, Chile

Making things even more difficult was the speed of the language.  A  large proportion of Argentinians have at least some Italian ancestry, so it was not too surprising that the pace and rhythm of the Spanish here sounded almost like Italian.   We also found that Duolingo was not as effective in learning grammar.  We learned the basics but the subtleties of tenses, etc., are not well suited to a mobile app.

Yes, we hiked the path of desolation!
Yes, we hiked the path of desolation!

Still, we are really glad that we made the effort to learn some Spanish.  It ensured that we ate well…and, perhaps more importantly, gave us a push to resume our language studies in French and German.  We have a stronger grammatical foundation in those languages, so the Duolingo emphasis on vocabulary makes it a useful way of achieving fluency.  As a result, nearly 6 weeks after returning home, we are still using Duolingo for French and German!  We have not continued our Spanish studies…but will be well-positioned to pick it up quickly the next time we need it.

We were very surprised to see a submarine in Puerto Montt, Chile!
We were very surprised to see a submarine in Puerto Montt, Chile!

And now, it is time to look into the future.  I have been creating blog posts on at least a weekly basis since February of 2014.  While I do have at least one major trip planned for this winter, I am going to be decreasing the frequency of posts for the next little while.

I took lots of pictures of Volcán Osorno (Puerto Varas) - including the photo at the top of this post
I took lots of pictures of Volcán Osorno (Puerto Varas) – including the photo at the top of this post

I hope you’ll keep reading the blog.  I encourage you to use its handy search function:  with well over 200 posts to date, I’m sure you’ll find something of interest!  There will be travel flashbacks and other travel-related posts from time to time…and rest assured that I will resume frequent posting during periods of travel.  There is some exciting and unusual stuff in the works!

 

 

 

 

Learning a Language in 5 Days

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Yes, I said that the next post would be from “on the road”.  While I am on the road already, I actually wrote this at home.  One of the best parts about running my own blog is that I can change my mind!

As I do not speak the language of the two countries I’m visiting on this trip, I decided to try an experiment.  Could I learn the language in less than a week, using only online tools?

More Cuban Crocodiles in Stockholm, Sweden
More Cuban Crocodiles in Stockholm, Sweden

I decided to try my experiment using the “Duolingo” app/website.  You can use it to learn multiple languages…simultaneously, if you want!  There are two ways to start working on your foreign language skills:  as an absolute beginner, or using a five minute placement test that will send you directly to your approximate level of fluency.  Just for fun, I decided to do the placement tests for French and German.  I was curious to see how my fluency in each of those languages would be assessed.  I figured that my German grammar and pronunciation would be better but I thought that I had better French vocabulary.

Swedish primates grooming each other.
Swedish primates grooming each other.

The placement test gives you a percentage score that represents your fluency in that language.   It also adapts to your performance:  if it is clear from the start that you don’t know very much, the remaining questions will focus on the basic components of the language to more accurately determine where you need work.  My scores confirmed that my French skills were not measuring up to my German ones.  Even so, it was encouraging to see that I was not too far from fluency.  I was tempted to work on those languages…but, alas, that would have to wait.  I had another language to learn.

Check out the grin on the reptile, at the bottom right!
Check out the grin on the reptile, at the bottom right!

My progress with my new mystery language is erratic but very tangible.  While I am nowhere near fluency yet (I just passed the 6% fluency checkpoint!), I have learned an incredible amount in only a few days.  With no books and no charts to memorize, I am learning more organically…almost like a child learns a new language.  It’s scary, because I usually learn by note-taking and then studying what I’ve written.  Somehow, much of what I’m seeing and hearing is actually sticking with me, even though I am not writing it down.   This forces you to learn intuitively and invent your own rules for the language:  it’s very hard at first but eventually you remember those rules better because they belong to you!

These are the globes that travel to the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm
These are the globes that travel to the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm

The cool part of using a program like Duolingo is that you can proceed at your own pace.  You can use it anywhere that you have Internet access.  It’s better to use it privately, so that you can hear the language (and speak it back into your computer), but you can still skip over those parts if you need to work silently.

Approaching the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm
Approaching the top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm

Studies have shown that learning a completely new language is an excellent way to keep one’s brain from deteriorating with age.  I’m excited to report that it can also be fun.   Over the next couple of weeks, I will find out if it can be useful too!

I promise that my next post will really be from my mystery destination.  In the meantime, here are some more pictures from our 2012 visit to Stockholm, Sweden.

Travel Flashback: Stockholm (August 17, 2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Another day, another blitz of the various attractions covered by the Stockholm Card!

We started off by visiting the Vasa ship.   The Vasa was a huge, overly ornamental and excessively armed ship that was launched in Stockholm with much fanfare in 1628.  Alas, with all of the bells and whistles, the engineers failed to take certain things into consideration.  Foremost among those considerations:  would it float?  Sadly, it did not even make it out of the harbour and sunk ingloriously after a mere 20 minutes.

The Vasa ship
The Vasa ship

However, the ship was magically preserved over the centuries at the bottom of the harbour until it was rediscovered in 1956 and finally exhumed in 1961.  Some restoration was obviously required but the ship now stands proudly in its own museum in downtown Stockholm.   While the environment is strictly controlled and does not lend itself well to photography, it was still fascinating to see the 17th century version of the Titanic.  It’s much more impressive, and perplexing, when you see it in person.

A couple of lemurs at Stockholm's Skansen open-air museum
A couple of lemurs at Stockholm’s Skansen open-air museum

Our next stop was Skansen – the “original” open-air folk museum after which many others are modelled (and sometimes even named).    Alas, we were starting to grow a little weary of museums by this time and we decided to focus on Skansen’s small zoo rather than the other elements.

This lemur crossed the line and was subsequently sprayed
This lemur crossed the line and was subsequently sprayed

We spent a fair bit of time “walking among the lemurs”:  there is a large area that you can walk through with about 20 of these odd creatures also wandering around.  They don’t harm humans but aren’t supposed to jump on your back because it could easily become a habit for them.  If they do jump on your back, a staff member will come running out and spray them with water:  the lemurs don’t like that!  It was strange to be hanging out with these creatures from Madagascar; we didn’t quite trust them but they also didn’t seem to be very dangerous.

Some of Skansen's primates
Some of Skansen’s primates

After observing the primates for a while (they all seemed to have those nasty-looking red behinds), we visited some of the indoor enclosures.  We saw rare Cuban crocodiles there, accompanied by this text:  “Since there is an embargo from American authorities regarding Cuban goods, crocodiles born in Cuba are not allowed into the U.S.A.  They are regarded as communistic crocodiles, in the eyes of American authorities.  On the other hand, if they are born in Sweden, they are allowed [and this is] the only way for American zoos to acquire this rare crocodile.”  I wonder if this still applies, given the recent thawing in relations between Havana and Washington?  You can read more about these crocodiles here: I certainly didn’t realize that they were kept in a Russian cosmonaut’s apartment for a while!

Is this a communist crocodile?
Is this crocodile a communist?

As this was our last full day in Stockholm, I pressed onward and visited the Ericsson Globe Arena.  This is a famous globe-shaped sports arena towering 130 metres above Stockholm. I mention the height because I did not go inside the arena:  I rode a globe-shaped “elevator” on an external track to the top!   This is definitely not recommended if you are prone to vertigo but it was a nifty way to see Stockholm from a completely different perspective.   Once again, the Stockholm Card covered the admission cost.

The Skyview ride to the top of the world's largest spherical building: the Ericsson Globe
The Skyview ride to the top of the world’s largest spherical building: the Ericsson Globe Arena

While I’ve got more pictures from Stockholm to share, I’m going to keep them in reserve for now.  The next blog post you see will be from our 2016 journey to the Southern Hemisphere.  Stay tuned to find out what I’ve been hinting about for the past couple of months!

Travel Flashback: Stockholm (August 16, 2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

On our first day in Stockholm, we had an unforgettable experience at an international soccer game between Sweden and Brazil.  However, we also found a lot of other things to like about Sweden’s capital city.  Today’s post is about our second day in Stockholm.

The National Museum in Stockholm (as seen on our boat tour)
The National Museum in Stockholm (as seen on our boat tour)

Stockholm offers a multi-day combination tourist pass called the Stockholm Card that includes all public transit, museums and a host of other attractions.  We easily made it pay for itself, although we raced around at a blistering pace.  We began with a tour of the Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet), the Postmuseum and a boat tour of the downtown area.    The Palace was appropriately huge and opulent; the Postmuseum included oddities such as a realistic portrait of a Swedish postal director from the early 1900s that was made entirely from postage stamps!  It was one of the oddest things I’ve ever seen:  kind of like a mosaic but using stamps instead of stones or pieces of glass.

The streets are very narrow in Gamla Stan (the old town) area of Stockholm
The streets are very narrow in Gamla Stan (the old town) area of Stockholm

The boat tour turned out to be rather brief (it was free, after all) but it was still nice to see Stockholm from another perspective.  It is built on 14 islands and, as you’ll see from my next blog post, has quite a fascinating naval history.

Mårten Trotzigs gränd - the narrowest street in Sweden
Mårten Trotzigs gränd – the narrowest street in Sweden

We worked up quite an appetite navigating the narrow streets of Gamla stan (the oldest part of Stockholm) and had a fun outdoor lunch at one of the local restaurants.  Downtown restaurants generally have a lunch special (called “Dagens rätt“) with a price corresponding to the local “lunch allowance”, so we took the opportunity to have some Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce.  In the afternoon, we went to the Nobel Museum [“Nobelmuseet“].  This was important for us to see but the last “site” of the  day was, to our surprise, even more impressive.

One of the sculptures at Millesgården in Stockholm
One of the sculptures at Millesgården in Stockholm

Carl Milles was a sculptor who created most of his enduring works in the first half of the 20th century.  His home overlooked downtown Stockholm and was turned into a museum after his death.  The  home/museum is interesting (it looks as it did during Milles’ lifetime), but almost all of his major works are outside.  The complex is called Millesgården.

Another one of the ethereal sculptures at Millesgården
Another one of the ethereal sculptures at Millesgården

While he created all kinds of sculptures, Milles is best known for those that appear to defy gravity and even take flight.  You can see a few of them here, as well as a very small portion of the extensively landscaped grounds overlooking Stockholm.

More of Millesgården, with some of downtown Stockholm in the background
More of Millesgården, with some of downtown Stockholm in the background

Millesgården is relatively difficult to find, if you are based in the downtown area, but it is well worth the effort if you would like to have an unconventional art experience.  While I did my best to capture them in my photographs, the sculptures are even more impressive when observed in situ.  It turned out to be one of our favourite stops on our whirlwind cultural tour of Stockholm.

Stay tuned for the highly unusual next day in Stockholm: who would have thought there would be an element of Madagascar to our visit?

Travel Flashback: More from the Road in Morocco (1996-1997)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My visit to Morocco involved quite a road trip.  After visiting Casablanca, Safi, Marrakech and the Oukaïmeden ski resort, we drove through the sparsely settled interior to my friends’ place in Ifrane.  Ifrane is an atypical Moroccan town:  it was developed as a winter sports resort and is home to a proportionately very large expatriate population.   One of the reasons is the modern Al-Akhawayn University:  you can see it in the picture at the top of this post.

Wow! It's Oued Ouaoumana!
Wow! It’s Oued Ouaoumana!

The long journey from Oukaïmeden to Ifrane contained two of my most vivid memories of Morocco:  the discovery of a watercourse called “Oued Ouaoumana” and my very first encounter with “kefta”.  The watercourse’s name highlights the fact that “W” is not a letter that occurs very often in French (the colonial language of Morocco).  As for kefta…

Before the kefta caper, we had to deal with this unexplained detour...
Before the kefta caper, we had to deal with this unexplained detour…

We had been on the road for quite a while and we were all getting quite hungry.  However, as we were definitely off the tourist trail, dining options were extremely limited.  Near the town of Beni Mellal, we found a roadside stall (not even a shack) that appeared to be patronized by truck drivers.  My friend told me that they served kefta – something I had never heard of before.    He ordered some for me, explaining that they take ground raw meat and serve it in a kind of pita.

The petrol district in the town of Ifrane, Morocco
The gas station district in Ifrane, Morocco

I felt myself go very pale.  I was starving but I had never been much of a red meat eater.  The prospect of eating it raw from this remote, ramshackle and unrefrigerated roadside stall made me very uneasy.  We were still several hours from Ifrane – wasn’t this asking for trouble?  This is precisely the kind of thing that all the travel books tell you not to do!  Upon receiving my order of kefta, I found out that my friend had neglected to tell me one very important fact:  they do in fact cook the meat before putting it in the pita.   I don’t think I have ever felt so relieved.  It tasted good, too.

A view of downtown Casablanca, Morocco, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background
A view of downtown Casablanca, Morocco, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background

My trip to Morocco reinforced just how much variation (from palm trees to ski resorts!) there can be within a country, even one that is relatively small by Canadian standards.  And Morocco, of course, is only one small part of a very large and diverse continent that straddles both the northern and southern hemispheres.  Speaking of the southern hemisphere...it’s almost time to go!  Did I mention that I might do some skiing this summer?

Travel Flashback: Marrakech, Morocco (1996)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The above photo was indeed taken on the “Road to Marrakesh”; we drove to the famous Red City after shaking off my jet lag in the coastal city of Safi.  This was my first and so far only time in Africa; Marrakech (which is the local French spelling) was the first time that I felt like I was close to a desert.

The Vegetable Souq in the old part of Marrakech, Morocco
The Vegetable Souq in the old part of Marrakech, Morocco

We may have been relatively close to the desert, but it was still cold.  We were all wearing winter costs; in fact, after Marrakech, we would go skiing in the Atlas Mountains at Oukaïmeden.  Still, despite the cool late December temperatures, I also saw my first camel on the outskirts of Marrakech.

Dinner at Stall 26, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco
Dinner at Stall 26, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco

I’ve never seen anything like the Djemaa-el-Fna before.  It’s a huge square on the edge of the old city and is impressive during the day…but it was like another world altogether in the evening.   There is sensory overload, with what seems like a massive carnival every day.  There were ornately dressed water sellers, traveling musicians, hawkers of various kinds…we even saw snake charmers!  It was quite cosmopolitan here, with people from all over Northern Africa, including the nomadic Tuareg (also known as the “Blue People”, as the indigo pigment from their clothing often stains their skin blue).  We really felt like we were on an ancient trade route.

Very freshly squeezed orange juice at Stall 60, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco
Very freshly squeezed orange juice at Stall 60, Djemaa-el-Fna, Marrakech, Morocco

We took full advantage of the atmospherics and ate freshly prepared street food at the market stalls.  I had some kind of couscous for dinner at Stall 26 but I remember Stall 60 even better.  Here, I had freshly squeezed orange juice from local oranges…it was, without question, the best orange juice I have ever had.   There is definitely something to be said for eating and drinking locally!

My friends with our guide "Hajj", in Marrakech, Morocco
My friends with our guide “Hajj”, in Marrakech, Morocco

As Marrakech attracts a lot of travellers and Morocco had rather high unemployment at the time, anybody who looked like a tourist was persistently accosted upon nearing the old city.  They didn’t want to harm us…they just wanted to be our guide.  It was often a rather hard-sell approach.  The old city is very confusing and it is a good idea to have somebody with you, at least for your first trip inside.  Of course, they are motivated to bring you to certain shops where they will get a commission if you buy something, but having a guide also stops other potential guides from soliciting your business.

Inside the Medersa in Marrakech, Morocco
Inside the Medersa in Marrakech, Morocco

To avoid making a bad decision, we hired a trusted and licensed guide through our hotel.  “Hajj” took us through various souqs and made sure we got back to our hotel safely.  We went back to Djemaa-el-Fna on our own later and spent quite a bit of time at the perimeter politely declining assistance.  Djemaa-el-Fna itself is not difficult to get around so it wasn’t necessary to have a guide for that.  Once we were inside the square, the soliciting stopped.

I’ll have one more post on Morocco soon.  As for the vague clues I gave in my previous blog post about our summer travel destination, I can give one more:  we are not going to the Olympics!

Playing the Guessing Game

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I don’t know how much fun it is for readers of this blog, but I personally really enjoy dropping vague hints about my upcoming travels and then suddenly saying something like “I’m in Sarajevo!” when I’ve finally arrived in my surprise destination.  I haven’t been able to do that for a while, as I talked about my recent trip to Italy far in advance (withholding only the details about the Cinque Terre part until I actually arrived there).

The Sault Memorial Gardens - where Wayne Gretzky played his junior hockey
The Sault Memorial Gardens – where Wayne Gretzky played his junior hockey

However, it’s finally time to play that game again! So far, all I’ve said about this summer’s trip is that it will be in the Southern Hemisphere. Well, that’s a pretty big place. Here are some more clues to tantalize and infuriate…

1. We will be visiting at least two countries (and might make a quick trip to a third).
2. We have not been to any of these countries before (alone or together).
3. I won’t need any special paperwork (or incur any expense) to cross the border between these two countries…but most readers of this blog would.
4. On this blog, I once mentioned that someday I might want to visit these two countries for food reasons.

The Algoma Courthouse in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
The Algoma Courthouse in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

Well, to me, it is now blindingly obvious where we are going!   It’s definitely a bucket list trip for me, as I have been accumulating books about one of these countries for many years but the timing just hasn’t been right until now.

The photos in today’s post are vintage prints from the summer of 1999.  Two of the pictures are from the northern Ontario city of Sault Ste. Marie.  It’s not a place that typically gathers a lot of tourist attention (and 1999 was my one and only visit)…so here’s a tip of the hat to the city we call “The Soo”!

A raccoon wreaking havoc in a tree beside my parents' house
A raccoon wreaking havoc in a tree beside my parents’ house

Sadly, the Sault Memorial Gardens building was demolished in 2006.  At the time, it was the second oldest building in the Ontario Hockey League.  Other than being Wayne Gretzky’s home arena when he played in the OHL, it also hosted concerts by a number of famous musicians, including Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, and Roy Orbison.    As far as I can tell, the Algoma Courthouse is still standing.

Coming up soon: more on Morocco, some travel planning thoughts, and (eventually) the Big Reveal!

Travel Flashback: Roman Ruins in…Morocco! (1997)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In addition to skiing in Morocco, I also had the equally unexpected opportunity to visit Roman ruins while there.

The ruined city of Volubilis is located about 33 km from the  Moroccan city of Meknès and within an hour’s walk of the town of Moulay Idriss.  Volubilis was one of the most remote outposts of the Roman Empire and was at its prime in the second and third centuries (A.D.).

The "Capitol" of Volubilis, as seen from the Basilica
The “Capitol” of Volubilis, as seen from the Basilica

In stark contrast to most Roman ruins in Europe, Volubilis was virtually unvisited by tourists.  Perhaps it was the time of year, but we had the place almost to ourselves.  And it was big:  not quite as big as Ostia Antica perhaps, but it definitely had more of the large, ornate public buildings that we associate with the Roman Empire at its peak.

Picnicking among the ruins at Volubilis, Morocco
Picnicking among the ruins at Volubilis, Morocco

Unlike Ostia Antica (and probably Pompeii), there were very few tourist services at Volubilis.  We came prepared, however, with a picnic consisting largely of fresh bread, olives and mineral water.  We ate right in the ruins themselves:  other than prohibitions against walking on the mosaics, I don’t recall any parts being closed off to visitors.  It was quite special to eat food that the ancient Romans themselves likely ate at that very spot nearly 2,000 years ago.

In front of the Basilica at Volubilis, Morocco. This photo has not yet graced the cover of a best-selling album.
In front of the Basilica at Volubilis, Morocco. This photo has not yet graced the cover of a best-selling album.

As my friend and I were in a band, we took a number of pictures with a view to turning them into album covers some day.   Needless to say, these were not always sombre views reflecting on the decline of an ancient empire.  However, a few songs (notably the cult classic “I am Volubilis”) did eventually result from our visit.

I quite enjoyed the less-visited parts of Morocco.  I didn’t feel very comfortable in the big city of Casablanca (which is definitely nothing like the movie of the same name) but smaller places like Azrou and Safi were very welcoming.   I’ll dig through my archives to find some more (non-digital) photos of Morocco and share more of my recollections from this most interesting destination.

Here, you can see some of the mosaics (completely exposed to the elements) of Volubilis.
Here, you can see some of the mosaics (completely exposed to the elements) of Volubilis.

Before signing off, I just have to share something that I read this week in a rather widely-read travel magazine.  A very brief article on Martha’s Vineyard (in the New England region of the U.S.) purported to provide “some packing inspiration for a classic New England  getaway”.   Believe it or not, the packing list included Hermes shorts ($3,775), Van Cleef and Arpels earrings ($7,250), Tiffany & Co. bracelets ($36,000 and $30,000), and a Dolce & Gabbana handbag ($3,695).  All prices are in U.S. dollars.

The Casablanca Voyageurs railway station on January 6, 1997
The Casablanca Voyageurs railway station on January 6, 1997

With articles like these, no wonder people think traveling is too expensive for them!   Unfortunately, a lot of travel writing is like that.  Don’t be scared off by such recommendations:  they won’t make your trip any better…and they will likely make you more vulnerable to theft.

Travel Flashback: Reykjavik and Traditional Icelandic Food (2008)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As I’ve mentioned a few times in my blog, Iceland has a very small population and the majority of it is in the capital city of Reykjavik. So what’s it really like?

Unfortunately, I don’t have much to show you.  This was the very first destination with my digital camera and I didn’t anticipate that I would ever be writing a blog about it.  However, upon reviewing my photos of Reykjavik I realized that almost all of them were dominated by a large umbrella, as it was raining for almost our entire visit.

The Bautinn in Akureyri, Iceland - we ate dinner here once
The Bautinn in Akureyri, Iceland – we ate dinner here

We spent a lot of time indoors in Reykjavik.  I wasn’t going to include the photograph below, which was clearly not taken with my usual care, until I realized that there really wasn’t much blog-appropriate photography from Reykjavik. Most of the photos in today’s post are from elsewhere in Iceland.

Part of the cafeteria menu at Reykjavik's bus station
Part of the cafeteria menu at Reykjavik’s bus station

Many travel guides spend considerable time describing some of the more unusual traditional Icelandic foods.  Iceland was once a poor country and it was necessary to eat whatever was available.  As you can see from the Svið (sheep’s head) in the above menu, some of those traditional items have managed to stay popular today.  I took a look at the Svið (which does not include the brain) but did not actually have any.

A church in Húsavík, Iceland
A church in Húsavík, Iceland

At one of the big markets in Reykjavik, we encountered the legendary hákarl:  putrefied meat from the Greenland shark.  It has to be buried underground and allowed to ferment for a couple of months because the meat in its “original” form is toxic to humans.  The poisons include uric acid…it seems that this particular shark urinates through its skin.  However, the fermentation process, followed by another extended period of air-drying, removes the toxins from the meat and it becomes edible.

Buildings near the harbour in Húsavík, Iceland
Buildings near the harbour in Húsavík, Iceland

I did not try hákarl either:  while it may not have been toxic, it apparently smells like very strong ammonia and rotten cheese…and can cause gagging for the uninitiated.  At the market, we could not smell it because it was kept tightly sealed.  Given the way it was presented at the market, it did seem to be aimed more at adventurous tourists than at everyday Icelanders.

Assorted ducks in Húsavík, Iceland
Assorted ducks in Húsavík, Iceland

Another traditional item I did try was Brennivín.  It is the equivalent of brandy, as the name translates into English as “burning wine.”  It is actually a powerful schnapps-like drink made from fermented potatoes and caraway seeds.  Many travel writers speak poorly of it (indeed, its nickname is “Black Death”) but I enjoyed it enough to bring some home from the airport’s duty free shoppe.

Mývatn: a lake in northern Iceland
Mývatn: a lake in northern Iceland

I also developed a taste for chocolate-covered licorice in Iceland: like most northern European countries, Iceland is crazy about licorice and there are many different ways to enjoy it.  I later had a variation on this theme in Finland (licorice-covered chocolate, which I liked even more) but it was in Iceland where I first discovered and enjoyed this unusual combination of sweet and salty.   If you like dark chocolate with sea salt, you will surely enjoy the combination of chocolate and licorice!