Category Archives: Posts from Base Camp

Posts from Kingston, Ontario, Canada

Travel Flashback: Exciting Oslo! (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Today’s flashback takes us to Oslo, Norway. In English, the name of this city is probably the least exciting of the northern European capitals.  After visiting Bergen and the mighty fjords, we anticipated seeing a few major sights and then moving on to somewhere in Sweden or southern Norway with a better travel reputation. Oslo’s legendarily high costs also weighed heavily on our minds. Surely, we wouldn’t spend the entire remaining week of our vacation there?

But a funny thing happened on the way to somewhere else: Oslo grew on us!

View from the top of the Holmenkollen ski jump in Oslo, Norway
View from the top of the Holmenkollen ski jump in Oslo, Norway

The high costs were partially offset by the saving grace of Scandinavian tourism: because business travel basically shuts down during the summer, Oslo’s better hotels all compete mightily for the modest number of tourists that find their way to the city. The result: 4-star hotels at (almost) bargain prices. The unforgettable (and included) smorgasbord breakfasts remain the same year-round, so we were able to skip lunch most days…as long as we treated ourselves to some hitherto unheralded Norwegian gelato in the early afternoon!

View of the Holmenkollen ski jump from the "take-off" point
View of the Holmenkollen ski jump from the “take-off” point

Norwegians are sports-crazy and it is only fitting that two of our favourite Oslo experiences were sports-related…and yes, very exciting!   The first was a journey to the legendary Holmenkollen ski jump facility (also known as Holmenkollbakken) in the northern part of the city.  The Norwegians excel at ski jumping and this facility is the Mecca of ski jumping in Norway.  The ski jumping events at the 1952  Winter Olympics were held here and it has continued to host prestigious meets ever since.

Looking down the still-under-construction Holmenkollen ski jump
Looking down the still-under-construction Holmenkollen ski jump

When we visited Holmenkollen, the structure was in the process of a complete rebuild.  Nonetheless, we could still go to the top and look down from the top of the ski jump.  I’ll cut to the chase:  if you think flying off a ski jump is crazy, don’t go to the top of a ski jump and look down.  It looks even crazier, with a steep, narrow path ending in absolute nothingness and seemingly certain death.   It is definitely scary, even for someone who has spent on awful lot of time on skis.

The facility also has a ski museum that traces the development of skiing from its earliest cross-country roots to modern day alpine skiing, ski jumping and freestyle skiing.  For a kitschy bonus, I decided to take a ride on the alpine skiing simulator set up there.  Along with a handful of strangers, I got to experience a World Cup ski race…complete with chattering ice and every other unnerving effect you can imagine.

The skiing simulator in action - I'm inside and in the process of being horrified
The skiing simulator in action – I’m inside and in the process of being terrified

I  once experienced a scary radar-gun-verified speed of 85 km/h on skis on a controlled slope in Switzerland and, after seeing a colleague take a bad spill at roughly that speed, it was something I resolved to never try again.  However, that uneasy feeling was nothing compared to this terrifying simulation at roughly twice that speed.   Ski racing is just as crazy as ski jumping!

The other sports experience in Oslo was seeing a professional soccer game at Ullevaal Stadion, home ground for Oslo’s legendary Vålerenga soccer team (wearing blue, in the photo at the top of this post) .   As with our visit to an international match in Stockholm two years later, we had a great time at the game itself and really felt like we had experienced a “real” aspect of life in Oslo.  There were few tourists here!

Vålerenga fans show their colours before the game
Vålerenga fans show their colours before the game

It was great to see a lot of goals, as  Vålerenga romped to an 8-1 victory over IK Start from Kristiansand.  Despite the one-sided result, fans of both teams were boisterous but well-behaved.  We’ll never forget the fans from Kristiansand singing on the subway out to the game!  We were also impressed with Vålerenga’s appreciation for their supporters.  As with Feyenoord in the Netherlands, jersey #12 is reserved for the  Vålerenga fans as the “12th player” and the players diligently saluted their fans when the game was over.

Vålerenga salutes their fans after an easy 8-1 victory
Vålerenga salutes their fans after an easy 8-1 victory

While these sporting expeditions were memorable, there is plenty more to see and do in Oslo.  Stay tuned for details!

Travel Flashback: Liverpool, England (2005)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

If you followed my trip to Abbey Road last November, then you can probably guess why we incorporated a visit to Liverpool into our 2005 Wales holiday: to see the Beatles sights in this northern England city.  To make the experience as authentic as possible, we stayed at the Adelphi Hotel: it is an ancient place that would have been the top hotel in town during the 1950s and 1960s.  Guests have included Winston Churchill, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland and Roy Rogers (and his horse Trigger!).

Prior to becoming global superstars, the Beatles gained an intensely devoted following in their hometown of Liverpool.  The venue most associated with them is the Cavern Club on Mathew Street, where they played hundreds of shows “before the fame”.  It was a damp, dingy and crowded underground venue dripping with condensation that nonetheless attracted throngs to each Beatles performance.

Near the Liverpool waterfront on a blustery day in northern England
Near the Liverpool waterfront on a blustery day in northern England

One would think that such an important sight would have been preserved as a tourist sight.  Nonetheless, it was in fact “filled in” in 1973 to accommodate an underground rail line.  Some say that the Cavern was not saved because there was some lingering resentment over the “local boys who left”.   Using the original plans and some of the original materials, a “new” underground Cavern Club was soon built in the same general area  and it has been filled with tourists ever since.  This is the Cavern you see in the photo at the top of this post.

Our van for the National Trust tour of the Lennon and McCartney childhood homes in Liverpool, England
Our van for the National Trust tour of the Lennon and McCartney childhood homes in Liverpool, England

While it hosts bands of all types, during the daytime almost everybody there is a tourist attracted by the Beatles connection.  Not wanting to miss out, we went down there to see what it was like.  A passable guitarist sang Beatles songs on the stage.  We ordered Cokes, as many of the lunchtime attendees would have done in the Beatles’ day, and (along with a lot of tourists) managed to get a small feel for what it might have been like in the early 1960s.

Before going down into the Cavern, we stopped at The Grapes.  This is a nearby Mathew Street bar where the Beatles would sometimes relax before or after shows at the Cavern.  Again, most Beatles fans know this.  A couple of local patrons offered to take our picture, which we thought was a nice gesture.  It soon became clear that they were hoping for some money or drinks for their trouble!

"Mendips" - John Lennon's childhood home in Liverpool
“Mendips” – John Lennon’s childhood home in Liverpool

While it was relatively expensive, we then went on a National Trust tour of the boyhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney.  A full-time housekeeper lives in each one and the only way to get inside them is by taking the National Trust tour from downtown Liverpool.  Advance  reservations are required, as only a limited number of people can visit each day.  Indoor photographs are not allowed.

John’s home was first…and it might be a revelation for some.  Although Lennon wrote a song called “Working Class Hero” and rebelled against privilege from time to time, he actually grew up in a relatively posh home (it even had a name: “Mendips”) with his aunt.  Mendips has been preserved as it would have been in the late 1950s and early 1960s.    We saw the front “foyer” where John and Paul would practice their vocal harmonies because the wall tiles resulted in great acoustics.

20 Forthlin Road (centre left) - Paul McCartney's childhood home in Liverpool
20 Forthlin Road  (centre left) – Paul McCartney’s childhood home in Liverpool

From there we went to Paul McCartney’s former home at 20 Forthlin Road.  This was much more modest – a cramped row house where Paul lived with his brother and father (his mother died when Paul was just 14).  We saw the living room where John and Paul composed some of their early songs “eyeball to eyeball”.   As with Mendips, the house has been restored to how it would have been when Paul actually lived there.  Although it was much humbler than John’s house, it would have been filled with music as Paul’s father had once been a bandleader.   The housekeeper here even bore a passing facial resemblance to Paul and naturally had the same Liverpool accent.

If you are interested in the history of the Beatles, visiting the National Trust houses is probably the best way to see “The Beatles’ Liverpool”.  The Cavern is also worth a peek but be aware that, out of necessity, the authenticity is just a little more compromised.

Travel Flashback: Skiing in Morocco (1996)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m going way back for this one!  Until now, I haven’t shared any flashbacks that predate my acquisition of a digital camera in 2008.  However, I’ve decided to take the plunge and scan some old-fashioned prints to go along with this post.

I was invited to visit Morocco by friends who had recently taken up teaching positions in the resort town of Ifrane.  However, before we went to Ifrane, they took me on a unique road trip through El-Jadida, Safi and Marrakech.  Knowing that I loved to ski, they then took me to the Moroccan ski resort of Oukaïmeden.  It is Africa’s highest ski resort and is located about 80 km south of Marrakech in the Atlas Mountains.

Bracing myself against the fierce winds at the top of the Oukaimeden ski resort in Morocco's Atlas Mountains
Bracing myself against the fierce winds at the top of the Oukaimeden ski resort in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains

The drive from Marrakech to Oukaïmeden on December 30, 1996, was unforgettable.  We passed camels shortly after leaving the big city; we then wound our way up the valley and eventually to the resort’s base elevation of about 2600m.   Here, it was definitely winter.   We checked in excitedly to Chez Juju, our home for the next two nights.

While we went to the top of the ski area on the 30th for some photographs on the windswept summit, we only went skiing on the 31st.  It was like stepping back into the earliest days of alpine skiing.  Donkeys (see photo at the top of this post) transported skiers to and from the village.  Our rental skis probably qualified as antiques.  The lifts were all old, slow, decommissioned lifts from France that had little in the way of safety features.   There was no trail grooming and little trail signage; the fierce Atlas Mountain winds quickly dispersed any powder that managed to accumulate.

Pausing for a photo of my ski poles, as I approach the end of one of the Oukaimeden pistes
Pausing for a photo of my ski poles, as I approach the end of one of the Oukaimeden pistes

Despite this, the snow cover was adequate and skiing here brought with it a tremendous sense of accomplishment.  Some of the slopes were rather difficult and we felt like pioneers of a sort.  By now, we had become used to the fact that it can get cold in Africa (as I’m sure many people initially find it hard to believe that it can get hot in Canada) but it was still exhilarating to think that we were actually skiing on a continent rarely associated with winter sports.

An old village, directly across from the Oukaimeden ski area
An old village, directly across from the Oukaimeden ski area

While spending more than one day on these slopes might have been overkill, we were still quite exhausted by the end of the day.  We returned to Chez Juju for dinner and, eventually, some relatively muted New Year’s Eve celebrations.

While our room was exceptionally cold and I had to sleep with my ski jacket on, it was necessarily one of those experiences where you just had to laugh and accept the situation.   We were heading back to lower altitudes the next day, so there would be plenty of opportunities to warm up.

Village in the Ourika valley, on our return from Oukaimeden (January 1, 1997)
Village in the Ourika valley, on our return from Oukaimeden (January 1, 1997)

Here is a British article from 2008 that more or less reflects my experience in Oukaïmeden: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/snowandski/3446834/Oukaimeden-In-Morocco-the-skis-the-limit.html.  It looks like not much had changed over the intervening 12 years!  If anybody has been skiing there in the past few years, I’d love to hear if the planned upgrading has taken place.

Coming soon – more adventures from my pre-digital travel archives!

Travel Flashback: Прачечная в Эстонии (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Strange as it may seem, doing laundry in Tallinn, Estonia was one of the reasons that we still consider Tallinn to be our favourite urban travel experience.

We always try to pack as little as possible; there is nothing worse than slugging heavy luggage through the rain, heat or snow.  Fashion takes a bit of a hit but we figure that travelers are allowed some leeway in that regard.

This movie theatre outside our hotel was built during the Soviet era (Tallinn, Estonia)
This movie theatre outside our hotel was built during the Soviet era (Tallinn, Estonia)

The only downside to packing light is that it is necessary to wash your clothes when you are traveling. Some people bring detergent and do their own laundry in their hotel rooms, others are willing to pay the extortionate fees charged by hotels, but we take the middle ground and seek out local laundromats.

This is easy to do in English-speaking countries and countries where the local language is close enough to English that communication isn’t a problem. As a result, Iceland was a breeze (albeit an expensive one) and Norway was not much more difficult.   While Estonian is a very difficult language for English-speakers, our advance research suggested that English was fairly widely spoken in Tallinn.  We planned accordingly.

Our basement laundromat in Tallinn
Our basement laundromat in Tallinn

Having done the necessary research in advance, I had located a laundromat within walking distance of our hotel.  We arrived with two backpacks full of laundry and were wearing our last clean set of clothes.  We were encouraged by a few English words on the outside of the building.  We entered the laundromat and tried to figure out what was going on.  It was not a “self-serve” laundromat, but neither was there much in the way of information about its services.  We approached the clerk and asked (in basically the only Estonian words we knew) if she spoke English.  She answered, but it definitely wasn’t English and it also wasn’t Estonian.

Blue skies in Tallinn
Blue skies in Tallinn

Due to the legacy of the Soviet Union and Estonia’s proximity to Russia, about 25% of Estonians are ethnically Russian.  In Tallinn, the number is closer to 40%.   Many of them, particularly the older ones who had no reason to speak anything other than Russian, never learned Estonian.   As a result, we should not have been too surprised that we had stumbled upon a laundromat with a Russian-speaking clerk.   While I know the phonetic equivalents of letters in the Cyrillic alphabet, I know little more than Да (da, or “yes”,) нет (nyet, or “No”) and спасибо (spasibo, or “thank you”).  This makes it difficult to communicate sophisticated instructions and settle on prices for laundry.

Our Tallinn hotel used to be reserved for Soviet navy officers, so even the stairways were posh
Our Tallinn hotel used to be reserved for Soviet navy officers, so even the (marble) stairways were posh

After a brief panic, we realized that our options were limited.  We took a giant leap of faith and simply assumed that leaving our clothes here would result in them being washed.  Why else would people bring clothes to a laundromat?  We had no idea what we would be charged but assumed that we would not be the naive victims of extortion.  We also hoped that the clothes would be ready by the end of the day, as we had already bought our tickets for the next day’s ferry to Helsinki.

We communicated with smiles, gestures…and copious amounts of “спасибо“.   We figured that, even if we weren’t understood, the clerk at least thought that we were fairly amusing.   Somehow, with a lot of pointing at a clock on the wall, we concluded that we should return by 5:00 p.m. and that there was no need to hang around the laundromat.

Exterior of our hotel in Tallinn
Exterior of our hotel in Tallinn (note Soviet navy insignia at the top)

We greatly enjoyed our final full day in Tallinn.  Finally, it was time to return to the laundromat and see what had happened.  To our immense relief, we were immediately recognized by the same clerk and presented with two bags full of clean, folded and meticulously organized laundry.  Success!  The cost was actually less than what we had anticipated and was a mere fraction of what we had paid in Iceland 4 years before.  I think we might have set some kind of record for saying “спасибо” in a single day; we left with more fond memories of Estonia and a renewed determination to continue our world laundromat tour in the future.

How to Make Travel Last Forever

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I recently spent an evening looking back at my blog posts from my self-guided music tour of England in November of 2014.  As I read the posts, two related thoughts came to mind. The first one: What a cool trip!  The second one:  I’m so glad I wrote it all down!

Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire
Mount Washington Hotel in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire

That, in a nutshell, is how to make travel last forever. It goes without saying that you should enjoy your travels and do things that interest you.  However, writing down my thoughts as I went along helped me to later relive those moments with more than just a vague feeling of “that was fun”.

Thayers Inn in Littleton, New Hampshire. We stayed in this very historic (and rustic) hotel.
Thayers Inn in Littleton, New Hampshire. We stayed in this very historic (and rustic) hotel.

It’s easy to take lots of pictures; in fact, I have more pictures (prints and electronic) than I know what to do with.  Taking that little bit of extra time to record your impressions while they are still fresh in your mind will give the photos context and will make the memories yours alone…rather than just another snapshot that you could find in a million places on the Internet.

Downtown St. Johnsbury, Vermont, U.S.A.
Downtown St. Johnsbury, Vermont, U.S.A.

In 2014, I did most of my writing during travel “down times”: on bus and train rides, in airports, in restaurants (I was mostly traveling solo and it made waiting for food a lot easier), and when attractions were closed.   On busy days, it was often in the form of point-form notes.  If I at least wrote down a few key words, it would be a lot easier to fill in the gaps later when I had more time.

Inexplicably lopsided view of the state Capitol building in Montpelier, Vermont, U.S.A.
Not every photograph is brilliant:  witness this Inexplicably lopsided view of the state Capitol building in Montpelier, Vermont, U.S.A.

Of course, you don’t need to record your thoughts in the form of a blog.  I kept written journals during many of my pre-2014 trips and then used the journals to prepare captions after I made prints of my photos and put them into photo albums.   I also kept a journal during my 2014 travels, although not on every trip.  I was busier on the group tours and I simply didn’t have the time to both blog and write a journal.

Lake Champlain, Vermont, U.S.A.
Lake Champlain, Vermont, U.S.A.

If you don’t keep a contemporaneous record, you end up facing the situation I have with our 2009 drive home from Nova Scotia through the Northeastern United States:  there are lots of interesting pictures from places we’d never seen before (and may never see again), but the passage of time has dimmed their significance and some of them can no longer be associated with a particular place.  I know the photo at the top of this post is somewhere in northeastern Vermont…but that’s all.

Paul Bunyan statue in Rumford, Maine, U.S.A. Apparently, there is now a small statue of Babe the Blue Ox here too!
Paul Bunyan statue in Rumford, Maine, U.S.A. Apparently, there is now a small statue of Babe the Blue Ox here too!

All of the pictures in today’s post are from that trip.  I wish I could prepare a meaningful narrative about them but my specific recollections are very few.  For example,  I still remember that Bangor, Maine is Stephen King’s hometown and that Littleton, New Hampshire is a very quaint place for an overnight stopover.  We stayed in a positively ancient hotel there and visited what had to be one of the world’s largest candy stores.  I also suspect that there were not a whole lot of specific sights in east-central Maine…but maybe that’s just because we did a lot of driving that day and accordingly we had stopped “seeing”?  It would be a lot easier to say, if I had kept a journal.

Stay tuned for more flashbacks from unique northern destinations!

Road Trip to see Paul McCartney in Nova Scotia (2009)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In about one week’s time, we are going to check off another item on our musical bucket lists.  Music is very subjective, of course, but I think the magnitude of this upcoming concert is similar to our evening with former Beatle Paul McCartney in Halifax, Nova Scotia back in July of 2009.

Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)
Paul McCartney live in Halifax, Nova Scotia (July 2009)

Driving to Nova Scotia from Ontario does not enjoy a great reputation. Yes, there were some long stretches of tedium. However, we were pleasantly surprised by our overnight stay in Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec, where we found an attractive downtown core with excellent food…and even bought a pair of Helly Hansen (see my previous post) shorts!

Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec
Waterfalls at Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec

Next up was a long drive through New Brunswick. We had big plans for Fredericton but the legislature building was closed for renovations and the downtown generally seemed closed when we arrived late in the afternoon.  We pressed on to the tiny town of Sackville, home of Mount Allison University, to spend our second night on the road.   We stayed in a college residence: an excellent accommodation option in the summer months.  We also felt compelled to visit Mel’s Tea Room:  the jukebox, stools and menu were all in accordance with our expectations.

Mel's Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick
Mel’s Tea Room in Sackville, New Brunswick

Early the next day, we crossed the border into Nova Scotia.  It was the day of the concert so we didn’t have much time to catch up with our friends before heading to the show.

So what is a Paul McCartney concert like?  Unlike his 1970s concerts with Wings, Paul’s latter-day concerts fully embrace his Beatle past.  It is truly remarkable to hear so many Beatles classics sung by the man who actually wrote them.  You get a feeling that you are a part of history:  many of these songs will be considered the “Classical Music of the 20th Century”.

Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick
Waterfalls at Grand Falls, New Brunswick

However, and this may seem like sacrilege to some, Paul has been emphasizing his Beatles hits (and his essentially solo “Band on the Run” album) in concert for so long now that I sometimes found myself wishing that he would skip some of the more overexposed or less-melodic songs.    “Paperback Writer” and “Get Back”?  Er, heard those the last time, thanks…don’t really need to hear them again.   On the other hand, I certainly can’t find fault with songs like the enormously popular “Hey Jude” and it was great to hear energetic versions of only slightly-less familiar tracks like “All My Loving” and “I Saw Her Standing There”.   These songs still sound fresh and brilliant after half a century, and they weren’t even singles in most of the world!

Welcome to Nova Scotia!
Welcome to Nova Scotia!

So, while I would have liked to have heard a few more surprise selections from his solo work (“No More Lonely Nights”, for example, was a huge hit and has a great tune to boot), it is a very minor quibble.  To be fair, I also have seen Paul McCartney perform live before and have seen several of his concert videos.  The bottom line is that his concerts are about three hours in length, immaculately performed, and feature 95% of the songs that casual fans will want to hear.

McCartney still clearly loves performing and his band looks equally thrilled to be there.  I’ve never seen so many people be so happy at a concert from beginning to end.  This “shared experience” makes it easy to understand why many reviewers employ quasi-religious language when describing McCartney shows.  Tickets aren’t cheap but, if you’re a fan, I have no hesitation in recommending these concerts.

Things get a little chaotic during "Live and Let Die"
Things get a little chaotic during “Live and Let Die”

After all that, you may be wondering who we’re seeing next week.  It’s another living legend whose story is every bit as compelling as (and perhaps more so than) Paul McCartney’s.  Feel free to guess…or stay tuned for my report in about a week’s time!

Travel Flashback: Bergen, Norway (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m a big believer in serendipitous travel.  When we were researching our 2010 trip to Norway, we thought it would be nice to see the Atlantic coast of Norway.  At the same time, it seemed like a waste of time to travel out to the coast from Oslo…and then back again to Oslo for the flight home.  It turned out that Icelandair served a number of Norwegian cities from Reykjavik…so we were able to book a flight into Bergen and then out of Oslo at no extra cost.  We didn’t know much about Bergen but figured that there must be something worth seeing.

As it turns out, there was plenty to see.  We quickly learned that Bergen was one of the major Hanseatic League cities:  a Germanic trading organization that linked the Baltic States, Scandinavia, Germany and Poland.  Of course, there was no united “Germany” yet, but German was definitely the language of commerce.

Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen
Close-up of buildings in the historic Bryggen district of Bergen

The historic Bryggen district, dominating Bergen’s waterfront, contains a large number of brightly coloured wooden buildings from the Hanseatic days.  We spent the better part of a day exploring the various museums embedded into the Bryggen buildings.  Everybody takes pictures of the exteriors but the dark interiors are equally fascinating.  And there is a lot of dried fish, too.

On our first evening in town, we took a gondola lift up to a park located high above Bergen’s harbour.   In just a few minutes we were hiking around a verdant wilderness, wondering whether there might be bears, and completely forgetting that we were in Norway’s second largest city.

One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront
One of many historic buildings on the Bergen waterfront

Bergen is also a modern city and we spent some time shopping and visiting markets.  This was the summer right after the Vancouver Winter Olympics:  Norway’s men’s curling team had made a real splash at the Olympics with their outrageously colourful curling pants.  By the summer, however, the novelty had begun to wear off.   and we saw a lot of plaid curling pants for sale.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any that fit me.

A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen
A quaint little red house, hidden from the street in Bergen

While I was unsuccessful in the curling pants department, I did find a Helly Hansen rugby shirt (Helly Hansen being a famous Norwegian brand of sports & outdoor clothing) that was almost as striking.  To this day, it attracts cries of “Where’s Waldo?” whenever I wear it.  The shirt has turned out to be a nice souvenir that I’ll forever associate with Bergen.

As Bergen was the first city we’ve ever visited in Norway, we will also forever associate it with huge and unique breakfasts.  As the price of food in Norway was quite outrageous, we learned to take extreme advantage of the hotel’s smorgasbordesque breakfast and not eat again until dinner.

Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen
Our hotel in the modern part of downtown Bergen

I suppose the amount of fish at breakfast was to be expected; this is, after all, a country with a huge fishing heritage.  Yet it was the cheese, of all things, that was most surprising.   For the first time, we ate brunost…or “brown cheese”.   Here’s a link to a Guardian article about it: from its orange-brown colour to its fudge-like texture to its surprising sweet and salty flavour, it is something else that I will never forget.  Just like some of my favourite Dutch treats, brunost does not seem to have caught on much outside its home country.

Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen
Just one of the quirky things we saw in Bergen

Bergen is a beautifully situated city and a great springboard for exploring the fjords.  If we make it to Norway again, we will focus on the Atlantic Coast…and it would be great to start with a return visit to this very livable place.

The Thrill of the Chase

(KIngston, Ontario, Canada)

As I mentioned in a recent post, the dates have been chosen and I am now deep into the “venue selection process” for this winter’s ski trip. It’s not on the same scale as planning an entire year’s worth of travel, but this is the most complicated travel problem I’ve faced for quite some time.  Today’s lengthy post, illustrated with some pictures from March of 2010, is all about figuring out when and where to ski.

Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)
Fun on the rooftops in Grächen, Switzerland (March 2010)

There are usually about 6 of us, coming from 4 or 5 different countries (depending on the year) and two continents. Thanks to e-mail, this is not an insurmountable barrier.  However, while it is great to be in regular contact with my “ski posse”, it can sometimes still feel like herding cats when it is time to make a decision.  Not only are we in different time zones, but we all in different professions (with their own “seasons”) and our countries all have different “high seasons” for holidays.  In Canada, for example, there can be a lot of competition in the workplace for “March Break” vacations.

Geography, economics, and our own preferences dictate that the ski venue will be in Europe. We also like to discover new resorts, so we rarely say “let’s just go back to the same place as last year”. This is where things get really complicated.  Europe is a small continent but there is a huge amount of skiing.

Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)
Not every ski resort is quaint (Cervinia, Italy)

The first consideration is the time of year.  February is traditionally the month for ski holidays  in Europe, so prices are often double what they might be in January or March.  As January is also the coldest month and high-altitude skiing means even colder temperatures, this means that we will generally ski in March.

Skiing in March rules out a lot of the lower-altitude resorts, as we need to be sure that the resort will have sufficient snow.  This means that we are more or less confined to the Alps.   This is not a terrible fate but it does rule out some interesting off-the-beaten-path possibilities.

The Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)
Skiing by the Matterhorn (Zermatt, Switzerland)

The next consideration is national price levels.  While we always stay in inexpensive accommodation, a strong currency and high standards of living can sometimes push even the cheapest accommodation out of reach.  Right now, pretty much everything in Switzerland is out of the question because of the very strong Swiss Franc.  It’s not just the hotel cost: we also have to consider the cost of lift passes, ski rental, food, and transportation to/from the resort.

As we enjoy exploring different pistes and most European bookings need to be for a week, the resort needs to be of a certain size to hold our interest.    We don’t want to ski the same slopes six days in a row.  This rules out all but the largest stand-alone resorts.  Generally, we are looking for a ski “region”, where a single pass gets you access to a variety of different resorts (ideally linked by pistes rather than by bus or train).  We try to avoid purpose-built resorts:  it’s much more interesting to ski in and around real Alpine villages.

3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia
3700m above sea level: skiing across the Swiss/Italian border above Zermatt and Cervinia

Once we think we’ve found a region or resort,  we also need to consider our access to the ski lifts.  An otherwise perfect village 6 miles from the nearest lift does not work.  Ideally, we want something in the “middle” of the region that allows us to access all of the resorts covered by the weekly ski pass.

We also need to find accommodation for 6 unrelated people.  Ideally, this would be in 6 single rooms, although this is not always possible.  Most hotels don’t have many single rooms, as the economics favour putting more than one person in a room.   Also, many seemingly ideal hotels are booked a year or more in advance, either by tour groups or by returning skiers who have enjoyed the resort in the past.

Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance
Some of the posse at Zermatt, with the Matterhorn looming large in the distance

We also need to eat!  One of the great attractions of European skiing is the (usually) excellent on-mountain and in-resort dining.  However, this is not always the case.  Evening dinners can be problematic:  after 8 hours of skiing, we don’t want to wander all over town trying to find a reasonably-priced place with good (local) food that has tables available and appeals to all 6 of us.  Lately, we’ve found that a well-chosen hotel offering half-board (with each day’s breakfast and dinner included) is a good solution to this problem.  But good-value accommodation and good food don’t always go hand-in-hand.

With all of these considerations, the initial stages of the search can be overwhelming.  Nobody wants to let the others down with a lousy venue or a proposal that not everyone can afford.  This year, I did have a small crisis at one point and wondered whether we should just go back to a “safe” resort that we’ve visited before.

More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia
More fun at the Swiss-Italian border, high above Zermatt and Cervinia

However, after much research and some frustrating late nights at the keyboard, the chase appears to be coming to a successful conclusion.   It looks like we’ve found our 2016 ski region and we are down to a couple of hotels in 2 different resorts within that region.

This year’s destination is the cross-border Via Lattea (“Milky Way”) ski region in northwestern Italy and southeastern France.  This region hosted the skiing events for the 2006 Winter Olympics in Torino (Turin).  Whichever hotel we choose, we will indeed have quality accommodation in a large ski region (that most of us have never visited before) with great food, interesting local culture and sights, good access to lifts, and very reasonable prices.   While it was a challenge at the time, it is great to know that the long hours of preparation will not be in vain!

Travel Flashback: Estonian Road Trip (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

We spent almost our entire Estonian holiday in the capital city of Tallinn.  However, we did embark on one out-of-town adventure:  a road trip to Haapsalu!

The decision to visit Haapsalu was more or less a random one.  There were several potential destinations but Haapsalu was close and accessible by a full roster of buses.  We figured that, if it didn’t live up to expectations, we could come home on an earlier bus.  As it turned out, we stayed longer than expected and caught the last bus of the day back to Tallinn.

Haapsalu Castle
The 13th Century Castle in Haapsalu, Estonia

While we didn’t know too much about Haapsalu, the most difficult part of the trip was buying the bus ticket.   Few tourists in Estonia travel by local bus from Tallinn, so I had to resort to some creative communication techniques at the bus station.  It was probably very amusing for the ticket agent.

Fun in the Haapsalu castle
Fun in the Haapsalu Castle

Haapsalu is a very quaint town on the Baltic Sea.  It used to be a favored summer retreat of the Russian tsars:  the covered portion of the Haapsalu railway station platform is 216 metres long  and is the longest in the former Russian empire (see photo at the top of the post).   The tsars, and many others, would come to Haapsalu to partake of its legendary mud cures.  The famous Russian composer Peter Tschaikovsky also spent a lot of time here; there is a bench that plays parts of his symphonies when you sit down on it.

On the waterfront in Haapsalu, Estonia
A waterfront reminder of Haapsalu’s glorious past

After a short walk from the train station (which, despite its oversized platform, was closed to trains and was now just a railway museum and a bus station), we were in the middle of Haapsalu’s historic downtown.  We had a delicious meal at a local cafe:  the picture is slightly out of focus, but I think you can probably tell that the dessert was decadent.  Later in the day, I had a bottle of kvass (a fermented beverage made from black rye bread)…it didn’t quite match up to the cake, but it was still something that I had to try while in Estonia.  Much tastier Estonian beverages were pear cider and Vana Tallinn; I’ll have more on those in a future blog.

Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia
Dessert in Haapsalu, Estonia

Our first stop after lunch was the 13th-Century Haapsalu Castle.   It is right in the middle of downtown and we enjoyed climbing all over the huge complex.

Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront
Mysterious abandoned factory on the Haapsalu waterfront

The Haapsalu waterfront still housed a number of ornate buildings dating back to the Tsarist era.  While some had recently been restored to their former glory, there were still signs of neglect from the Soviet period.   There were also some anti-touristic buildings:  we saw a largely abandoned factory that had clearly been built when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.  The most surprising part was how such an ugly, industrial building, with no need for water access, could be placed in such a prime waterfront location.   We also saw a suspicious-looking building that looked like it was a combination of apartments and a surveillance tower:  what was the real story?

Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia
Mysterious building in Haapsalu, Estonia

It wasn’t the only mystery.  There was also an extremely odd sculpture in the harbour:  for reasons we don’t fully understand, a polar bear (which is by no means native to this region) rises majestically out of the water…near the curiously-named Africa Beach.  Were these simply examples of the quirky Estonian wit?  We left Haapsalu with more questions than answers.

Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu's Africa Beach
Mysterious sculpture near Haapsalu’s Africa Beach

The combination of a beautiful downtown, a historic castle, puzzling relics and the shadow of the Soviet era all combined to make Haapsalu a fascinating day trip.   It would be interesting to visit it again in a few years, to see whether it has taken further steps towards regaining its glamorous past.

Looking Ahead

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Things have been quite busy since returning from our road trip to Southwestern Ontario.  We managed to get out for a day trip to Perth but otherwise have been staying close to home.

The end of the summer travel season is a time to pause and consider what adventures lie ahead.  Music certainly seems to be at the forefront, with 5 major concerts between now and April. This October, I’ll be traveling out of town to attend one of those “bucket list” concerts that I honestly thought I’d never get to see. Stay tuned for my report on that!

Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium
Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium

I have already set aside some time in early 2016 for skiing. The dates have been chosen but the destination is still very much a work in progress. One thing is certain: given the “candidates” that are in the running, it will be a spectacular setting.

As for the shorter term, the plans are for more local travel…and hopefully to burn through some more of the frequent flyer points and other rewards that I accumulated during my big year of travel. Some of those points will expire soon and I will need to do something with them.  I’ve often entertained the notion of going on a low-cost last-minute trip and, if my schedule allows it,  I might be able to do that this fall.

Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials
Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials

Unfortunately, it is becoming more and more difficult to take advantage of most frequent flyer programs.  With blackout periods, “service” fees, and nasty itineraries involving 18-hour layovers between one-hour flights, some of these “rewards” seem illusory.   I prefer to use my points on travel but may well be forced to cash them in for gift cards if I can’t make the logistics work for me.

Zebras are apparently black with white stripes...not white with black stripes
Zebras are apparently black with white stripes…not white with black stripes

Regardless of whether I can squeeze in some last-minute trips, I will still be posting on this blog.  However, the posts will likely not be as frequent for the next few months.

The pictures from today’s blog are from the Kingston Sheep Dog Trials.  This annual event was held earlier this month just east of the city at Grass Creek Park.  I had never attended before and will admit to some skepticism about the event.  However, it was actually fascinating to see the border collies herding the reluctant sheep.  It is amazing what these dogs can do.

Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

As our family once had a majestic (and bilingual) German Shepherd, I was also very interested in seeing the police dog demonstration put on by the Kingston Police at the Sheep Dog Trials.  The police dogs are actually German Shepherd/Belgian Malinois crosses but the characteristic intelligence and determination of the German Shepherd was very much in evidence.

Kingston police dog attacks the "bad guy" during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston police dog attacks the “bad guy” during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

Other dog events included an agility competition and “dock diving”.   There were many dog lovers at this event and it was also fun just to look at the other dogs in attendance.  We were briefly tempted to import a Shepherd from Belgium after seeing the puppy pictured above!

I’ll be back soon with more travel writing and photos!