Auschwitz: Unimaginable Evil

(Tychy, Poland)

On September 9, we went to the Auschwitz concentration camps from World War II.  Auschwitz is the German name for the Polish town of Oświęcim; the town still exists a short distance from the camps.  We visited the two main sites:  Auschwitz I and the much larger Auschwitz II (Birkenau). There was also a smaller Auschwitz III and some satellite camps nearby.

This was a very difficult experience.  At first it looks almost pastoral and the barbed wire isn’t even that conspicuous.  But once the story starts rolling, you quickly get a very sick feeling in your stomach.  The feeling doesn’t let up either:  as bad as Auschwitz I was, Auschwitz II-Birkenau took the horror to an even higher level.

Watchtower and electric fence at Auschwitz I.
Watchtower and barbed-wire electric fence at Auschwitz I.

The Nazis cleared out all local residents in an area of 40 square kilometers around the camps.  This made it possible to carry on atrocities without local knowledge.  There was all kinds of misinformation:  the sign above the entrance to Auschwitz I says Arbeit macht frei, which can be translated as “work will set you free”.  This was only the beginning of the massive deception.

It is impossible to capture the overwhelming evil in a single blog posting and I am concerned that this brief narrative will not paint a complete picture.  However, I still think it is important to describe some of what I saw.

Execution wall at Auschwitz I.  About 5,000 people were executed here.
Execution wall at Auschwitz I. About 5,000 people were executed here.

80% of people who arrived at Auschwitz (primarily Jews, but also including other groups who were unacceptable to the Nazis) by train were immediately sent to “showers”…which turned out to gas chambers that would kill them within minutes of entering.  They had no idea what was coming:  people brought their most valuable possessions to the camp and expected to be getting a job the next day.  The remainder were put to hard labour without sufficient food and most died a horrible death through starvation, disease, medical experiments or execution.

It is estimated that 1.1 million people were killed at Auschwitz.  The actual number is impossible to confirm because so many were killed upon arrival.  During mid-1944, at Auschwitz alone, the Nazis were killing in excess of 5,000 people every single day.  The sites were designed for utmost efficiency:  the gas chambers were right beside the crematoria.

Our group enters the gas chambers/crematorium.  Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.
Our group enters a gas chamber/crematorium. Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.

We actually walked through the gas chambers and crematorium at Auschwitz I where thousands and thousands of people were murdered.   It is very difficult to put into words what it felt like to be in that place.  If you can imagine the most haunted building and the most sickening feeling you can remember, and then wonder what could possibly have motivated people to be so evil and commit such heinous acts of mass murder…that combination would begin to describe what we all felt.

Auschwitz was not the only concentration camp.  When you include the other Nazi camps, the numbers (it is estimated that 6 million Jews were murdered by the Nazis) are even more incomprehensible.  It was a continent-wide assembly line of death.

A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I
A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I

We walked by some “inventories”:   huge displays of property confiscated from the camp residents that had not yet been put to use by the Nazis by 1945.  The sheer volume was astonishing but the worst was the hair:  the Nazis sheared the residents and used all of the hair to make garments and other “knits”.  We saw a display case that was about 40 metres long, several metres high and several metres deep…still filled with human hair that had not yet been converted to another use before the camp was finally liberated.

The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)
The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)

We also saw the main “receiving centre” at Birkenau (see photo at the top of this posting).  Here, new arrivals by train would be assessed in a split second by a Nazi doctor.  If he pointed left (which happened almost all of the time, especially if you were a child, female, elderly, or disabled), you would be dead that day.  If he pointed right, you were deemed fit for labour…but you would almost certainly die within weeks or months.  Death could come from starvation, execution, gassing, disease, or even the rats who infested the lower bunks.

Miserable housing at Birkenau.  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.
Miserable housing at Birkenau:  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.

There is so much more that could be said.  So much humiliation and inhumanity…and that was for those who survived the initial culling.  In addition, the survivors would smell the furnaces from the crematoria that were burning each and every day.  I won’t discuss the medical experiments that were performed on the camp residents.  I think the only thing that saved me from being physically ill was the fact that we did not see the video that most people watch upon arrival at Auschwitz.  It contains footage taken by the Red Army when Auschwitz was liberated in early 1945.  I have seen snippets of this footage in the past and the condition of the surviving prisoners is extremely disturbing.

Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II - Birkenau)
Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II – Birkenau)

If you have the opportunity to visit a concentration camp like Auschwitz, you should give it serious consideration even though it is by no means “enjoyable”.  It will have a profound effect on you and it will be impossible to view the world in quite the same way afterwards.

Hockey in Poland (and a bit more of Prague)

(Tychy, Poland)

After our very challenging first 3 games in Prague, we were able to take it easy on Sunday. The only organized activity was a dinner cruise on the Vltava River.

A bunch of us decided to visit the Museum of Communism, for a look at what life was like from 1948 to 1989 in the Czech Republic.  The three largest exhibit rooms were entitled “Dream”, “Reality” and “Nightmare”; the situation moved quite rapidly from “dream” to “nightmare”.  There was even an interrogation room where confessions would be obtained under extreme duress.

The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic
The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic

It was sobering to see how quickly Czech life became unbearably oppressive during those years.  We saw a grocery store stocked with only a couple of (not very desirable) products, the bribery necessary to get anything done,  and the sheer number of collaborators and informants who enabled the totalitarian nightmare to continue.  We also saw a movie showing the police brutality that took place just outside the front door of our hotel.   All of this reminded us of how fortunate we are in Canada.

Another view of the old town square in Prague
Another view of the old town square in Prague

The river cruise was quite mellow.  There was no commentary, just a buffet and a slow journey up and down the river.  As I found during our canal cruise in Haarlem, it’s nice to see a city from a different perspective. Given the crowds in Prague, it’s also great to have a bit more personal space while admiring the city.

View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)
View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)

Monday morning saw us driving to Opole, Poland for a series of games.  We had just over 2 hours of ice time, so we alternated playing against teams from Tychy and Wroclaw.  Playing 4 straight games against teams that could rest between games turned out to be quite demanding, especially as the ice was not resurfaced during that time.  However, I’m pleased to report that Canada’s hockey honour was restored with 4 straight victories over our well-rested opponents.

Our first stop in Poland:  a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border
Our first stop in Poland: a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border

We received a very warm welcome in Opole; they seemed genuinely thrilled that we had made the journey.  Gifts were exchanged and there were many Polish beverages available before and after the game.  The Canadian spectators reported that the Polish fans were also gracious and friendly.

Our bus driver got lost on the way to our hotel in Tychy after the game, so a one-hour journey turned into a three-hour odyssey through the misty Polish night.  We finally arrived (after eating “dinner” at a 24-hour gas station) just before 1:00 a.m.  No harm was done, though, and I think everybody fell asleep quickly after arrival.  Fortunately, our hotel is right beside the arena where we play(ed) on Tuesday night!

Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 "Velvet Revolution") in Prague, Czech Republic
Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 “Velvet Revolution”) in Prague, Czech Republic

On Tuesday, we visited the famous city of Krakow as well as the infamous concentration camp at Auschwitz. I will be describing those visits in a separate posting.  We also played the Tychy team (in their home arena) Tuesday night and were once again victorious.  We really enjoyed the evening, as a couple of Polish and Canadian players switched teams and we had a fun night of pizza and refreshments after the game at our hotel.  Tomorrow, we once again move on!

Prague and our first hockey games

(Prague, Czech Republic)

The last time I was in Prague was in 1999. I had recently finished my law studies and I was living on a real budget. I was travelling with a friend from Toronto and we found our accommodation as we stepped off the train in Prague’s central train station. We went with a “gut feeling” that the guy who approached us was trustworthy and that our $15/night room (or was it $10?) northeast of downtown would be safe.

Prague's famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)
Prague’s famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)

Needless to say, it is a little different this time around.  The tour organizer has taken care of everything.  We are staying at a well known international chain hotel right in the middle of downtown on the famous Wenceslas Square. Our own bus is taking us to our hockey games and will also be shuttling us around 4 different countries.

Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!
Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!

As for the hockey…the first game was a real eye-opener.  Our opponents were led on the ice by Milan Novy: the Czech national team player who was apparently described by Bobby Orr in 1976 as the best player in the world at the time (after leading Czechoslovakia to a win over Canada in the first round of the Canada Cup).  Novy was also one of the few Czech players to play in the NHL before the fall of the iron curtain.

Zimní stadion in Prague:  we played all of our Czech games here
Zimní stadion in Prague: we played all of our Czech games here

While Novy is now in his 60s, his teammates were various Czech ex-professionals from the much more recent past.  Our team, meanwhile, had arrived from Canada that same day and were both sleep-deprived and jet-lagged.  Our goalkeeper played a heroic game to keep the score down and we managed to score 3 goals against this Czech all-star team.  We were told that this was probably the strongest team we would face…but that our next Czech opponents were younger and “almost as good”!

The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!
The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!

That assessment was correct.  Our two opponents on the second day also had former professionals, although not as many as on the first team we played.  As for the outcomes:  let’s just say that our results “improved”!  None of our opponents could be classified as weak in any way…and they were all extremely motivated to win because this was actually considered a tournament (we had thought that they were all exhibition games).  The last game was especially close but some very “flexible” rules proved to be our downfall.  I won’t go into the details but the bottom line is that any penalty results in an automatic penalty shot.

Once again - the puck must be close!
Once again – the puck must be close!

All three of our games in Prague were at the Zimní stadion.  It clearly goes back to the days of communism and, surprisingly, has North American dimensions rather than the wider international ice surface.  However, the blue lines are very close together:  this means that there is a lot of room in the attacking zone and our opponents really took advantage of that.

While the on-ice results haven’t completely been what we hoped for, we still had a lot of fun playing the familiar yet different European game.  After 3 games in less than 24 hours, though, there won’t be any hockey tomorrow.  We can be tourists for a day!

Hockey Tour of Eastern Europe!

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

I will soon be flying to Prague  in order to commence the trip of a lifetime: a hockey tour of Eastern Europe!  We will have a game every day (more or less) for the time that we are there.  There are also some special events and there will even be time for a little sightseeing along the way.

I visited Prague in 1999 and was able to watch a professional hockey game between Prague archrivals Sparta and Slavia.  However, I have not played hockey in any European country other than Switzerland and now I’ll have the chance to play in four different countries (including a couple that don’t have a very high hockey profile yet).

This trip was not part of my initial 2014 travel plan.  I was talking to one of my hockey friends a couple of months ago and he mentioned that he was going on this tour.  It sounded great and I told him that I could be a last-minute replacement if anybody had to bail out.  Within days, that’s exactly what happened!

Not only will this be an incredible experience for my team, but it will also be memorable for our opposition.   Canada still enjoys an almost mythical reputation as the birthplace of ice hockey and home of the greatest players and (national) teams.  Of course, it also means that our opponents will be thrilled with any success that they have against us.

As you can imagine, there will probably be little time for blogging or photography on this trip…but I promise to do what I can and then catch up when I get back to Canada.

Game on!

You can take the boy out of Holland, but…

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

…you can’t take Holland out of the boy.  It’s a cliché that could apply to any place, but I found it to be true over the past couple of weeks.

I’ve had a pretty good success rate with my travel year so far.  I’ve enjoyed practically every place I’ve visited and the inevitable setbacks (cancelled flight to Memphis, missing baggage in Paris, etc.) have been overcome without too much difficulty.  However, I think the just-completed trip to the Netherlands will become one of those “legacy” trips that enjoys a special place in my heart.

Getting caught by the waves at the same beach where my father played as a child ('s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands)
Getting caught by the waves at the same beach where my father played as a child (‘s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands)

We saw some very interesting things on this trip, but I think the best part was reconnecting with my Dutch relatives.  Without exception, my cousins were all thrilled to see us and it made everything more vivid and meaningful.  It was cool to see my family name on a church from the early 1600s, but even cooler to be shown it by a cousin who still attends that very church.  It was great to see a professional soccer game in Holland, but even greater to be taken there (and to an exciting pre-game meal!) by a cousin who belongs to the home team’s fan club.  And it was wonderful to see the very distinct northern extremities of the Netherlands, but even more wonderful to be shown around  by a cousin who lives there and could explain the places that are connected to my family.

Keystone rplaced by (and naming) my ancestor Isaac van der Hout (Maassluis, the Netherlands)
Keystone placed by (and naming) my ancestor Isaack Adriaensz van der Hout (born in 1580) – at the “Grote Kerk” in Maassluis, the Netherlands

All of which is a long way of saying that great travel experiences are not just about the places you visit…but about the people who are there.  I’ve had similar experiences with my Swiss relatives (eating at a mountain restaurant whose owner/chef was my mother’s cousin, and skiing with my uncle in my “ancestral valley” in the Berner Oberland, to name just two) and the memories last much longer than places you’ve passed through without any real personal connection.

Synchronicity! Klein Zwitserland ("little Switzerland") at the dunes on Schiermonnikoog, the Netherlands
Synchronicity! Klein Zwitserland (“little Switzerland”) at the dunes on Schiermonnikoog, the Netherlands

What does this mean for future travel?   It may not affect the remainder of this year’s journey, but it will certainly have a future impact.  As I told each of my Dutch cousins, it won’t be another 23 years before I visit again.

The backstreets of Amsterdam
The not-so-busy back streets of Amsterdam

And now, as promised, here is some information about my next trip.  While I have only just returned to Canada, I will be flying out again on September 4 on a very special journey.  I have been trying to have more time at home between trips but I could not control the timing of this one.   As time is of the essence, I’m going to give all of the clues at once:

1.  The theme is sports…and as a participant, not as an observer.

2.  The sports element is not just incidental; I will be participating in this sport virtually every day that I am away.

3.  I will be visiting a total of 4 countries (2 of which I have never visited before), with an airport stopover in a relatively familiar 5th country.

4.  Notwithstanding the location of this trip, it will have a very Canadian flavour.

5.  Perhaps because of clue no. 4, the “hosts” may be thrilled if some days are unsuccessful.

More deer in Haren, the Netherlands
More deer in Haren, the Netherlands

My itinerary on this special trip will be very busy, so I’m not sure if I will be able to blog in “real time”.  I’ll be back for 4 weeks afterwards, though, so the back-up plan is to get the posts up then.  At a minimum, I hope to get some status updates up on Facebook.  I’m sure it’s going to be great!

Everybody wants to see more food!

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m now back in Kingston after a very enjoyable trip to France, Luxembourg, Germany and the Netherlands. I still intend to do a wrap-up post but first I am going to take the populist approach and write about food. I didn’t include too many food pictures in my day-to-day posts, as I realized fairly early on that I would have enough for a post devoted solely to food. I’ve noticed that food also tends to draw the most blog comments and personal e-mails.

Sometimes food can be a tasty history lesson.  Two examples on this trip were Tibetan food in Luxembourg and Indonesian food in the Netherlands. Tibet is not currently an independent nation. However, the idea of Tibet as an entity has been kept alive in several ways. Many Tibetans have fled home to establish new lives elsewhere and a significant number have established restaurants specializing in Tibetan cuisine. My wife and I have eaten Tibetan food in Montreal, Toronto and Northampton (Massachusetts), among other places.

Bhutanese cheese soup and Tibetan butter-and-salt yak tea (Luxembourg City, Luxembourg)
Bhutanese cheese soup and Tibetan yak-butter-and-salt tea (Luxembourg City, Luxembourg)

So, even if you couldn’t place Tibet on a map, you may still be familiar with the Dalai Lama…or Momo dumplings!  I really enjoyed my Tibetan meal in Luxembourg City and I’m glad that I can now also share a photo of my Bhutanese cheese soup.  Bhutan is an independent country but it is very small and I do not think that there is a very large Bhutanese expatriate community.  Bhutan occasionally makes the news because its leaders have taken a rather unique approach to tourism and economic development: the number of visitors is very strictly limited…and the nation has determined that “Gross National Happiness” is more important that “Gross National Product” (hence the restrictions on the number of tourists).

Rijsttafel at De Lachende Javaan (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Rijsttafel at De Lachende Javaan (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

I have fond memories of eating Indonesian food as a child during my family’s visits to the Netherlands.  It was so colourful and tasty; virtually every town had at least one place where you could get Indonesian food. I didn’t really understand all of the nuances at the time, but the main reason for this proliferation of Indonesian restaurants was that Indonesia was once part of the Dutch colonial empire.  In some ways, the Dutch adoption of Indonesian cuisine mirrors Britain’s adoption of (East) Indian cuisine.  Much as I associate Indonesian food with the Netherlands, I also associate Indian cuisine with Britain.

The Man-Wah restaurant in 's-Gravenzande, the Netherlands.  I remember eating Indonesian food here as a child.
The Man-Wah restaurant in ‘s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands. I remember eating Indonesian food here as a child.

There are quirks, however.  I’m not sure exactly why, but most restaurants serving Indonesian food are also described as being “Chinese”.  The food served doesn’t really match up with this Canadian’s perception of Chinese food, but the naming convention remains in place.

Even though I could happily eat Indonesian food several times a week, it doesn’t seem to be that trendy in the Netherlands these days.  Like many other people, the Dutch have taken a liking to showarma, doners and kebabs…foods that became commonplace in western Europe partly because of the economic migration of guest workers in the late 20th century.  The fresh flavours of Thai food are also very popular with the Dutch (see photo at the top of this post – which is from a “Chinese” restaurant in Zuidlaren).  But what struck me most was the proliferation of Spanish restaurants (generally focusing on tapas) and Argentinean steakhouses.

Dimly-lit North African food in Groningen, the Netherlands
Dimly-lit North African food in Groningen, the Netherlands

The Netherlands has had a new king since 2013.  His wife is Argentinean and she is quite popular with the Dutch.  Indeed, most of my relatives believe she is the reason  that tapas bars and steakhouses can now be found in any decent-sized Dutch town.   Her popularity may not last forever but, in the meantime, eating tapas or Argentinean steak seems to be almost a patriotic act in the Netherlands.

And what of “traditional” Dutch food?  I regularly ate krokets (croquettes) as a snack, loaded up on various types of excellent Dutch cheese on sandwiches, and ate hagelslag (“hail”, a type of chocolate sprinkle) whenever possible for breakfast.  Only in the Netherlands can adults enjoy this food without guilt. It’s great to start your day with some buttered (as an adhesive layer) bread and a thick coating of dark chocolate hagelslag.

Next time on the blog – a Dutch recap and my next destination!

Last Day in the Netherlands – Into the Canal!

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

On August 24. we woke up to cool weather and blue skies – a perfect combination for getting out on the water. My wife had expressed interest in doing a canal tour in Amsterdam during this trip if the weather was right…but we then realized that canal tours departed only a 3 minute walk from our hotel in Haarlem. We had covered a lot of territory during our visit to the Netherlands so it made sense to cut down on the commuting for our last day.

We were able to get on a open-topped boat tour that departed only 5 minutes later. Dutch weather is notorious for changing quickly but we calculated that the tour would likely be over before the weather could turn rainy again.   Yes, we remained optimists even after the notorious “7 rains in one day” situation just a few days before.

The boating district, near our hotel in Haarlem
The boating district, near our hotel in Haarlem

In our bright orange “gondola”, it was almost like navigating the canals of Venice. Even though we had walked along Haarlem’s canals for the past 4 days, it was much more impressive to see the city from the water. Our guide had just the right combination of information and sarcasm to make the commentary both entertaining and enlightening.

The "Adriaan" windmill in Haarlem, as seen from the water on a sunny day
The “Adriaan” windmill in Haarlem, as seen from the water on a sunny day

We even had some close calls, as we went under some bridges with very little clearance. We easily touched the undersides of the bridges with our hands as we passed underneath them. The guide also liked to wander around the boat and talk to the passengers, before rushing back to steer the boat away from walls, bridges and other watercraft.  As a bonus, the weather remained pleasant throughout.

We made it under this bridge - but not without some anxiety! (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
We made it under this bridge – but not without some anxiety! (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

The rest of the afternoon was spent shopping and enjoying the relaxed pace of a Haarlem Sunday.  I found some properly-fitting soccer shin pads as well as another nifty surprise for my sister’s upcoming birthday.  My sister spent two years living in the Netherlands so it is a lot of fun to shop for her here.

As we neared the end of our five night stay, our hotel in Haarlem was beginning to feel like home.  The only thing that was missing was a proper fridge, so that we could buy more local food products and not rely as much on restaurants and take-out food.  Many times, I found myself wanting to buy a particularly interesting cheese…but having to decline because we didn’t really have the facilities for it.  I consoled myself with some snack-sized purchases, when possible.

The Haarlem Waag (Weighhouse), as seen from the canal.
The Haarlem Waag (Weighhouse), as seen from the canal.

For any future trips to Europe, we will give serious consideration to renting a kitchen-equipped apartment for a week or two.  Food is one of travel’s great pleasures but eating out for more than a few days at a time becomes rather expensive and, just as importantly, begins to lose some of its lustre.  I think it’s just as fun to pick up the day’s bread (or pastries!) at the local bakery and supplement it with foods that we wouldn’t ordinarily eat at home in Canada.

For our last dinner in the Netherlands, we went to a Thai restaurant just south of the main dining district.  I was proud of myself for ordering an appetizer that was not translated or explained; even after tasting it, neither of us could tell if the filling was fish, chicken or vegetarian.  In any case, it came with a fiery and flavourful dipping sauce, so in the end it didn’t really matter that much.  The main course was fine; I had low expectations for the dessert (described as “banana in warm milk”) but it was actually quite tasty with cinnamon and nutmeg accents.

It’s always a little sad once a trip is clearly at an end.  We really enjoyed ourselves in the Netherlands and we are bringing home a lot of little reminders of the trip.  Stay tuned for some final commentary and some hints about my next trip – on September 4, I’m heading out on another intercontinental adventure.

Edam: More Than Just Cheese?

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

The weather in the Netherlands had improved enough on August 23 for us to embark on a small road trip to a nearby town.  My favourite “mass market” Dutch cheese is Gouda (which naturally originates in the town of Gouda), but we decided to visit Edam instead as it is easily accessible from Haarlem.

There was a bit of a hiccup when we got to the Haarlem train station and discovered that the balances on our OV-Kaart (chip card for Dutch transportation) were quite a bit lower than we expected.  This new ticket-free electronic system requires you to check in and check out every time you ride a bus or train.   We apparently forgot to check out once, so we were charged the maximum national fare for what was a very short trip from Amsterdam to Haarlem.

Fishing on a cloudy day in Edam, the Netherlands
Fishing on a cloudy day in Edam, the Netherlands

One of my friends had warned me that this system was very tourist-unfriendly but until now everything had been OK.  Alas, rectifying the problem cannot be done by a train system employee (even though they are able to track exactly what happened).  Instead, you need to call a special phone number (for which you pay a per-minute rate) and, if accepted, you will receive a refund cheque in the mail.  In Euros, of course, and apparently only in the Netherlands.  This is obviously not very practical if you don’t live in the Netherlands and don’t use Euros at home.

Downtown Edam, the Netherlands
Downtown Edam, the Netherlands

The need to maintain such a large minimum balance on the chip card for any train trip is also tourist-unfriendly and discourages use of the train by tourists who are about to leave the country.   This was all very frustrating but we tried not to let it bother us too much.  Edam itself was quaint (only 7,500 residents) and not nearly as busy as Amsterdam, even though it was a summer weekend.  One important specialty store was open, however, and I was able to pick up a special surprise for my sister’s upcoming birthday.

Tree-lined road in Edam, just like the ones we saw in the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe
Tree-lined road in Edam, just like the ones we saw in the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe

We visited the square where the (now purely ceremonial) weekly cheese-weighing takes place, as well as the town’s huge church.  Here, we spent some time looking at the gravestones and learning a little bit of Edam history.

Cemeteries are often a great way to learn more about another country; we don’t necessarily go looking for them, but we also don’t avoid them if we happen to encounter one when we are exploring.   Not surprisingly, I didn’t see any relatives in the graveyard here.  The distance from here to the ‘s-Gravenzande area is minimal by today’s standards but it would have been massive in the 17th century.

Deep in the suburbs of Edam, the Netherlands
Deep in the suburbs of Edam, the Netherlands

As Edam appeared to be geared primarily towards day tourists, we decided to return to Haarlem for dinner.  There are a lot of dining options here and I expect to devote a post to Dutch dining in the near future.   There are also lots of dessert options:  most restaurant menus include appelgebak (a substantial apple pie) but it is also quite easy to find take-out gelato and waffle places.  This suited my wife and I perfectly, as these are two of our favourite desserts.

Waffle with chocolate sauce, cherries *and* whipped cream (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Waffle with chocolate sauce, cherries *and* whipped cream (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

Tomorrow (August 24) will be our last full day in the Netherlands before returning home.  Our plans will depend on the weather; we would like to do a canal cruise if the rain stays away.   There is also a museum with a special exhibition on vinyl records in the Netherlands – this is our back-up plan.  Either way, we’ll also spend some time shopping, as clothes here tend to fit us better than the clothes back home.

Amsterdam and a Rainy Day in Haarlem

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

On August 21, we finally made it beyond the airport and experienced the actual city of Amsterdam.

Our initial impression was mixed. It was undoubtedly a beautiful city, with the same 17th century prosperity that we saw in other old Dutch cities…just on a larger scale. However, Amsterdam is definitely on the beaten path and we only lasted about 2 blocks on the Damrak before veering off course to avoid the crushing throngs. The situation was made worse by the large number of tourists toting suitcases down narrow sidewalks and the extensive construction/renovation work being done in the same area.

A small part of Amsterdam's massive main train station
A small part of Amsterdam’s massive main train station

We saw many key sights: the Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace), the Begijnhof, the Bloemenmarkt (floating flower market), the Albert Cuypmarkt…and found that the tourist crush eased considerably once we crossed the Keizersgracht canal. Here, we found neighbourhoods where locals still worked, shopped and relaxed. We had a nice lunch, found some appealing specialty shops, and generally just experienced the vibe of an energetic but not frenetic cosmopolitan city. This is the part of Amsterdam that I would like to see again.

A peaceful sanctuary in Amsterdam:  the Begijnhof
A peaceful sanctuary in Amsterdam: the Begijnhof

There are many renowned Amsterdam sights that we did not see. It would have been nice to see the Rijksmuseum where legendary paintings such as Vermeer’s “Kitchen Maid” and Rembrandt’s “Night Watch” hang, but this had to be weighed against our tolerance for line-ups and crowds. I’m convinced that the major sights in Amsterdam are best seen in the off-season; it was so busy now that the line to see a franchise of Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum (something that is not even Dutch) went all the way down the block and around the corner.

One of Amsterdam's many canals - away from the downtown core
One of Amsterdam’s many canals – away from the downtown core

We knew that August 22 would be a rainy day, so we decided to remain in Haarlem and do some indoor tourism. Museums are great for rainy days and we managed to find one that was particularly special.

Teylers Museum was established in 1778 and is the oldest museum in the Netherlands.  It is housed in a custom-built building; it is fascinating to see what the museum founders thought was most important at the time.  The end result is multi-dimensional, as both the exhibits and the museum itself are on display.  I particularly enjoyed looking at the embryonic record players from the 19th century as well as the hoaxes that at one time were accepted as real by the museum.

Massive electrostatic generator from the 18th century (Teylers Museum - Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Massive electrostatic generator from the 18th century (Teylers Museum – Haarlem, the Netherlands)

As the goal of the museum was to capture “all knowledge”, there were also a couple of rooms devoted to art.  It was strange to see Dutch scenes that we ourselves had seen in the past two weeks, except that the paintings were made 200 years ago.  There was also another “synchronicity” moment:  the special exhibition featured 18th century prints from Rome.   My wife and I greatly enjoyed picking out all of the sights that we had seen during our Roman trip in March of this year.

We ended our indoor day by visiting a genuine working windmill.  The Adriaan mill (see photo at the top of this post) was an iconic symbol of Haarlem before it tragically burned down in 1932.   (Family note:  “Adriaan” was also the name of the first recorded van der Hout, in the early 1500s.)  It was eventually rebuilt and now is back in working order.  My wife and I had the same initial reaction:  it’s huge!   And then, once we saw how the complex parts inside worked:  this is an incredible piece of engineering!  We were permitted to climb quite high into the structure and walk around the balcony that surrounded it several floors above the ground.

Front view of the Adriaan windmill (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Front view of the Adriaan windmill (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

We quite enjoyed being tourists in Haarlem; it won’t be a tragedy if we spend another day here before returning to Canada!

Haarlem – The Amsterdam Alternative

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

Our original plans for this trip were to spend a number of days in Amsterdam.  Neither one of us had ever been here (other than at Schiphol Airport) and most Dutch travel guides devote a huge amount of space to the city. It didn’t take much research for us to discover that Amsterdam is both crowded and expensive in the summer, so we decided to stay in a nearby city and commute into Amsterdam instead.

Haarlem was our choice. It is only 15 minutes away by train and has a substantial population of 150,000, so there are plenty of things to see and do.  Some consider it to be Amsterdam in miniature…but without the oppressive crowds that plague the capital in summer. And yes, this is where the name for New York’s Harlem comes from.  New York City was originally known as New Amsterdam and many of the boroughs and neighbourhoods have Dutch names (Brooklyn, Coney Island, the Bronx, Yonkers, etc.).

More cheese!  Another cheese shop on the Barteljorisstraat in Haarlem
More cheese! Another cheese shop on the Barteljorisstraat in Haarlem

Our first major stop was at the Corrie ten Boom House, also known as “the Hiding Place”.  This house, located behind a jeweller’s store (still operating today), was used as both a meeting place and a hiding place during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands in World War II.  While only 4-6 people would be hiding there at any one time, the ten Boom House was often used as a temporary sanctuary until a safe house could be found in the rural areas surrounding Haarlem.

During the tour, we learned about the various codes that were used to avoid detection by the Nazis.  We also saw the clever extra brick wall that was built in Corrie ten Boom’s bedroom.  The linen closet had a hidden door just above the floor that would permit access to the narrow (60 cm deep) space behind the extra wall.  Because the wall was made of bricks, three days of Nazi searching failed to uncover the hiding spot that they believed was in the ten Boom house.

The hiding place at the Corrie ten Boom House.  Access to the hiding space was through the bottom of the closet; part of the extra brick wall has been cut away for museum purposes to show how small the space was.
The hiding place at the Corrie ten Boom House. Access to the hiding space was through the bottom of the closet; part of the extra brick wall has been cut away for museum purposes to show how small the space was.

The ten Boom family protected both Dutch resistors and Jews who were wanted by the Nazis.  It is estimated that somewhere between 80 and 800 lives were saved because of the Corrie ten Boom House:  it is not possible to be more precise because it would have been extremely risky to keep records detailing who had been helped.  The ten Booms were eventually betrayed by an informant, however, and in 1944 they were sent off to camps in Germany.  Three family members died but Corrie ten Boom managed to survive the ordeal.  She later became an author and public speaker, focusing on a message of reconciliation instead of revenge.

Most Dutch cities have a "Grote Markt" square flanked by impressive buildings.  This is Haarlem's Grote Markt.
Most Dutch cities have a “Grote Markt” square flanked by impressive buildings. This is Haarlem’s Grote Markt.

We’ll be in Haarlem for a few days before returning home to Canada, so I will be posting some more about both Haarlem and Amsterdam shortly.

You may be wondering about the cover photo at the very top of this post.  This is my cousin’s Labrador Retriever named Bente (for short) and the photo was taken while we were driving through the countryside north of Groningen.   Bente was sitting on the floor by the front  passenger seat and sleepily looked at me in the back seat.  While travelling is great fun, it is also nice to have reminders of a more settled life.  Bente and her Dachshund friend Frits did a great job making us feel like we were at home in Groningen.

The Odyssey Continues…