Tag Archives: Bosnia & Herzegovina

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Souvenirs from Bosnia & Herzegovina

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Cleaning and organizing have been occupying more of my time lately. In the process, I have found a lot of “souvenirs” from my past travels. Today’s post focuses on some interesting ephemera from my April 2014 trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina.

I stayed at the Hotel Konak in Sarajevo (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

The Hotel Konak was almost perfectly located in downtown Sarajevo. I could easily walk to everything. The hotel facade was a little unusual, but it was quite nice inside. It was a very comfortable place to sleep off my jet lag and adjust to my new surroundings. I had a long trip from Kingston to Toronto to Vienna to Sarajevo, and I appreciated the quiet room.

I visited the “Tunnel of Hope” in Sarajevo (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

The next day, I went on a guided “Siege of Sarajevo” tour, and it was an excellent (if sobering) introduction to the relatively recent conflict in this historic city. You can read more about the siege here, including the still “bullet-holed” tunnel entrance. The “Tunnel of Hope” was my first direct introduction to the impact of the war on Sarajevo…although the ruins of the Olympic complex also made a deep impression. I later wrote about a very close encounter with a land mine in Sarajevo.

Specialties of the Restoran Šadrvan in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

My next stop was the city of Mostar. As I noted in the blog entry I posted shortly after arrival in Mostar, the wounds of war were even more apparent here. But it was also a beautiful city, and my first meal was in a garden-like setting near Mostar’s famous and historic bridge. The photo at the very top of this post is actually a postcard from the Restoran Šadrvan in Mostar (my table was right by the fountain), and the picture above shows some of their specialties. My main course was stuffed peppers, but I also had a pickled vegetable salad…and I’m sure I had dessert too. After all, I was doing a lot of walking!

The Museums of Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

I visited the local museum in Mostar primarily to see a video. They have a small theatre inside the museum where you can watch footage from the conflict that took place in Mostar. The footage of the destruction of the bridge was especially sad. I crossed that rebuilt bridge many times during my stay, and it is easily the most emotional bridge I have ever crossed. I also visited the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, which is now a National Monument. Ascending the minaret was particularly memorable: you can read about it here.

Receipt from the Hotel Platani in Trebinje (Bosnia & Herzegovina), along with bus tickets/baggage receipts from Mostar

My next stop was not very far geographically, but it felt very different in every other respect. Trebinje is located in the Republika Srpska: it’s still in Bosnia & Herzegovina, but it is also governed separately from the “Federation” part of Bosnia & Herzegovina. You can read about that in more detail in my Trebinje post from 2014. The Serbian influence is much stronger here, as you can see from the above invoice from my hotel. The top of the invoice says “Hotel Platani” and “Trebinje” in the Cyrillic alphabet.

Receipt from the restaurant at Hotel Platani, Trebinje (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

The receipt above is from my meal in the hotel restaurant on my first night in Trebinje. While the form is all in Cyrillic, my waiter used the Roman alphabet to record my meal. I had a Capricciosa pizza, a glass of local red wine, and a decadent dessert. It was a palačinka … basically a stuffed crepe. But this one was the house specialty: it had an enormous amount of cherries and much more ice cream than usual. (You’ll notice that all prices in this post are in “KM”. This stands for “convertible marks”. The Bosnian currency was pegged to the German mark, and theoretically still is…even though Germany no longer uses the deutschmark.)

I enjoyed reliving my Bosnian trip through these items. Who knows what I will uncover next?

Posts from Base Camp

Protests and Disruptions

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

It’s now been three years since I visited Peru and journeyed to the famous abandoned city of Machu Picchu.  In order to do this, our group had to take a train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.  This all went very smoothly and I couldn’t imagine anybody having difficulty with it.  This week, however, thousands of tourists were stranded because the rail line to Aguas Calientes was shut down.

In the middle of Machu Picchu, Peru (July 2, 2014)

Two major protests coalesced in the Cusco area: one was about the cancellation of a promised airport in the region, while the other was by 20,000 teachers seeking higher wages.  As a result, the railway operator elected to close down for two days.  This reminded me of my own overseas encounter with local unrest:  a rotating local bus driver strike in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, that prevented us from skiing at an outlying ski area for a day.   There was nothing we could do about that:  it was far too small to be covered by the international news media and we were not reading the morning Italian papers.  In any case, we still had a nice day of skiing at the local area and simply took the bus the following day.

Machu Picchu, Peru (July 2, 2014)

However, there are cases where you can do your due diligence.  Just prior to leaving for Bosnia & Herzegovina, I read about some protests in Sarajevo that seemed to be getting a little out of hand.  As I was traveling independently, my only “fixed” plan was my hotel.  I e-mailed my hotel and immediately received a response:   these were anti-corruption protests at a local government building and it would not affect anything in the “tourist” areas of the city.

A rainy but very safe day in Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina (April 23, 2014)

While I suppose that the hotel had a vested interest in ensuring my visit, I also felt better confirming the situation.  I figured that, having received their reassurance, the hotel might be more inclined to help me out if things did turn out ugly and I was exposed to a dangerous situation.   As it turned out, everything calmed down and I completely forgot about the protests when I was there.  I also found the hotels in both Sarajevo and Mostar to be very accommodating and concerned about their customers.

The old post office in Carleton Place, Ontario (June 2017)

Returning to the present:  I’ve been quiet about this summer’s travel plans.  There is a reason for this:  we decided to change our initial road trip destination because it was becoming too popular!  After reading one too many stories about the extreme tourist deluge hitting Cape Breton Island this summer, we decided to bail out.  For various reasons, including Canada’s 150th birthday, many Canadians are choosing to vacation in their own country this summer…and Cape Breton seems to be especially trendy.

A true Irish Stew in Carleton Place, Ontario

We are still going to do a road trip:  it just won’t be as far as Cape Breton.  It will focus on a unique part of our country and one that we haven’t visited enough during the warmer months.   In the meantime, I’m including a couple of pictures from Carleton Place, Ontario.  We stopped there recently on our way to Ottawa and enjoyed a seemingly authentic Irish lunch.  You never know what you will find, once you venture off the beaten path!

Posts from the road

The Lost Blog Entry from Bosnia & Herzegovina

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In reviewing my photographs of the past year, I realized that there was still at least one untold story from my visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina. Here is a “previously unpublished” blog entry dating back to April of 2014.

The city of Mostar suffered terribly during the 1990s. I’ve shared some stories and pictures about the destroyed bridge and some of the damage that was done to the people and buildings. But I didn’t say anything about one of the monuments…

View of the "east bank" of Mostar, from the top of the famous Old Bridge
View of the “east bank” of Mostar, from the top of the famous Old Bridge

Yugoslavia was a communist country but it wasn’t really behind the Iron Curtain.  Marshal Tito followed a relatively independent course and, as a result, Yugoslavia was the most accessible of the communist states in Eastern Europe. However, as in most of the communist countries, there were many monuments built in Yugoslavia to commemorate the struggle against fascism during World War II.

Second World War Monument (Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Second World War Anti-Fascist Monument (Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

Last year, I published a photograph (see above) of a Yugoslavian era anti-fascist monument in Trebinje. This monument is well maintained and is right in the middle of Trebinje’s main downtown park, suggesting that it is considered to be very important.  However, another (much, much larger) Yugoslavian era anti-fascist monument is located in Mostar.  Unlike Trebinje’s monument, however, the one in Mostar is crumbling, waterlogged, and completely overgrown with weeds. There are no signs showing the way to Mostar’s monument and some maps don’t even include it…despite it being close to downtown and sprawling over the equivalent of several city blocks. How could this happen, when the two cities are in the same country and barely 100 km apart?

Anti-Fascist Monument in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Anti-Fascist Monument in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The answer is complicated and obscured by past conflicts. In a nutshell, however, one ethnic group is seen as having been sympathetic to the communist cause…while another is seen as having been sympathetic to the fascist cause. As a result, the interest in maintaining anti-fascist monuments varies according to which ethnic group dominates in a particular place. The interest in developing “Yugoslavian Civil War” tourism varies in a similar way, as one ethnic group is not as keen on having its role being placed under scrutiny.   You can imagine how complicated this gets, as there are actually three ethnic groups in Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Overgrown monument in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Near the top of the overgrown anti-fascist monument in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

I was tempted to use quotation marks with put the word “ethnic” in the above paragraph:  you may remember from my earlier posts that these “ethnic” groups historically were essentially the same in appearance and language:  it was mainly religion that divided them.

Looking from the monument itself to the formerly grand entrance (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Looking from the monument itself down the formerly grand entrance boulevard (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

Anyway, I spent a fair bit of time exploring and climbing on the Mostar monument.  It is huge and built in an over-the-top style that is typical of communist-era monuments.  I was the only person there:  I saw somebody walking a mean-looking dog there when I first passed by the entrance, but he was gone by the time I visited the park.  It felt really creepy,  as if nobody was really welcome at the monument.  I kept looking around to see if somebody was going to tell me to leave…or even to escort me away from the monument.  That never happened but I would not have been surprised if it did.

A smaller arched bridge in Mostar
Another arched bridge in Mostar

This massive monument would have been a major attraction in other Eastern European countries, as they certainly don’t make monuments like that anymore.  However, the rawness of Bosnia & Herzegovina’s recent past means that it will probably continue to crumble for quite some time.     In the meantime, if you want to see the monument in Mostar, try not to rely too heavily on locally-produced maps:  it is possible that something will be missing.  You may also want to visit with a group and during daylight hours, as I didn’t feel completely safe visiting the site and I think there is only one way to get in and out.

Posts from Base Camp

Some Final Words on the Balkans

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I had originally intended to say goodbye to the Balkans with a lengthy post about food.  However, I’m going to pre-empt that discussion for a moment with some late-breaking news about the region.

"Living Room" of my hotel in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
“Living Room” of my hotel in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

As you have probably heard by now, torrential flooding has created massive devastation in Serbia, Bosnia and, to a lesser degree, Croatia.  Many people have died and hundreds of thousands have fled their homes.  Landmines are now once again a concern, as they have been disturbed by landslides and flooding.  Reconstruction will be a long and difficult process, once the immediate health and safety threats are overcome.

In my previous blog, I expressed the hope that the upcoming World Cup would be helpful in the Bosnian reconciliation process.  It seems that the flooding and an unexpected gesture from a tennis player may accelerate the process before that (and on an international level).

Novak Djokovic of Serbia is currently ranked as the 2nd best tennis player in the world.   Last weekend, he won the Rome Masters tennis tournament and a $500,000.00 paycheque…and donated all of it to the victims of the floods.   Most notably, the money (along with another $600,000.00 raised through his charitable foundation) was to be shared by the countries affected by the flooding.  This cross-border gesture has in turn prompted the Bosnian national soccer team to support Djokovic on the court and for Djokovic to declare his support for Bosnia & Herzegovina at the upcoming World Cup.  There also has been unprecedented cooperation between Serbia and Bosnia & Herzegovina in dealing with the aftermath of the flood.

I don’t think anybody expected events to unfold this way.  Let’s hope that others show similar leadership so that the old “divisions” may finally be put to rest.

Now, a few words about food…

Meat stuffed with meat (prosciutto) and cheese, with a Shopska Salad, in Žabljak, Montenegro
Meat stuffed with meat (prosciutto) and cheese, with a Shopska Salad, in Žabljak, Montenegro

Any discussion about food in the Balkans needs to begin with the omnipresent ćevapčići – a sausage-shaped minced meat.   I ate this in both Sarajevo (on a platter with other “real” sausages and pickled cabbage) and Split (in a warm pita with raw onions and ajvar sauce).  However, the dish I ate most was Wienerschnitzel…or bečka šnicla, as it usually appeared on menus (see my earlier post on “A Crazy Road Trip” for a photo).   The name bečka šnicla puzzled me at first, until I realized that many of the Slavic languages refer to Wien (Vienna) as “Beč“.   It was always excellent – the Austro-Hungarians certainly left their culinary mark in this part of Europe.  Anyone who has travelled here will not be surprised to read that I also enjoyed burek (filled pastry) and dolma (stuffed vegetables) on more than one occasion.

Dolma with pickled salad and a limunada (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Dolma with pickled salad and a limunada (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

However, I also enjoyed some interesting beverages in the Balkans, primarily due to lemons!  In Bosnia, I drank limunada on several occasions.  This is roughly equivalent to “lemonade”, but it is so sour that they bring out a jar of sugar for you when serving the drink.  Later, in Croatia, I rediscovered pivo s limunom.  The exact name and formulation changes from country to country, but I had previously enjoyed it in German-speaking countries as Panache or Radler…where it is one-half beer and one-half lemon/lime soda.  It tasted good after a long day of skiing in the Alps and I now discovered that it also fit the bill after a long day of walking under the Adriatic sun. 

View from my dinner table in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
View from my dinner table in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

I think today’s ultimately hopeful post is a nice way to conclude my reporting on the Balkans.  On May 29, I’ll be heading out on another adventure to a place I have never visited before.  It wasn’t one that I had planned well in advance; after returning from Italy in March, I decided to let fate (in the guise of seat sales) dictate where I would visit in the spring.  It all happened very quickly and I am quite happy with how it turned out.  In fact, my next destination is logically connected to both Canada and the Balkans.  It will also be a great place to watch the opening matches of the World Cup.  Stay tuned for details!

Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro
Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro

 

   

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Bosnia & Herzegovina, War and Soccer

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Looking back on my trip to the Balkans, it turns out that Bosnia & Herzegovina (“BiH”) has left the greatest impression on me.  Croatia and Montenegro are stunningly beautiful countries, but I mostly felt like I was on vacation while there.  For those countries, that is definitely a good thing.  By contrast, BiH was a real intellectual challenge…something that isn’t often associated with a vacation.

Second World War Monument (Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Second World War Monument (Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

The war in BiH officially ended in 1995 with the Dayton Accord.  I say “officially” because it is extremely difficult to suddenly end such a devastating war and then carry on with normal living as if nothing had happened.  Even now, 19 years later, the war is still in the face of almost everybody in BiH.  There are “war tourists” who want to know what happened.  The political boundaries are based on the front lines as they stood in 1995.  There are paralyzing disputes about which sites (if any) from the war should be developed for tourism.  There are still bombed-out carcasses of buildings throughout the country.  And, as I was to find out during my “Siege of Sarajevo” tour, people are still dying from landmines.

Bombed-out building on an otherwise rebuilt street (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Bombed-out building on an otherwise rebuilt street (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

I didn’t mention the landmines in my blog at the time.  Among other reasons, I didn’t want to overdramatize what had happened, given that it was only my first full day in BiH.  I wanted to believe that BiH had moved on from the war.  But after spending a week there, I realized that mentioning the fatality wasn’t overdramatizing .  It is simply the reality of today’s BiH.

Land mine warning - Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Land mine warning – Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

As you will recall, I visited the crumbling bobsled run from the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo.   High up in the mountains, about a one minute drive  away from where we parked to walk down the bobsled run, our tour leader pulled over on the side of the road.  There was a driveway and what appeared to be an abandoned (but still standing) house.  Cars occasionally passed us – this wasn’t downtown, but neither was it far from the hillside suburbs of Sarajevo.  Our guide explained that, less than 3 weeks ago, a man was killed near the edge of the driveway by a previously-undetected  landmine.  It happened about 12 metres from where we were parked.  It was an extremely sobering way to spend the first full day of my trip.

In another town, I was given an apparently comprehensive sightseeing map.  Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the largest (religious) building in town wasn’t on it.  The building had been there for many years – clearly, it was omitted because it belonged to a different religious group.  With such persistent reminders, in addition to ongoing landmine fatalities, the war is indeed still being fought.

Bird's Eye (heh) view from a minaret in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Bird’s Eye view from a minaret in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Next month, BiH will participate in soccer’s World Cup.  This is an incredible accomplishment and marks the first appearance of BiH at this prestigious competition.  I’d like to believe that this presents an opportunity for BiH to focus on what binds them, rather than on what divides them.  I recently watched the movie “Invictus”, which showed the unifying power of sport in the South African context.  Nelson Mandela saw South Africa’s rugby team as an opportunity for South Africa to move on from the miserable past of apartheid.

I’ll certainly be watching BiH closely in the World Cup.  I don’t know for certain whether the team roster includes players from each of the groups that make up BiH, but it would be wonderful for each of those groups to be cheering for the same team, just like South Africans eventually did in “Invictus”.

Another view of the Old Bridge (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Another view of the Old Bridge (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

Posts from the road

Taking a vacation…while on vacation?

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(Split, Croatia)

After my far-too-exciting road trip to northern Montenegro, I decided that it was time for an important part of any extended trip:  a vacation from the vacation.  It’s important to recharge every once in a while, even though it is tempting to maximize the sightseeing every day.  With the sun shining in Kotor, I decided to enjoy the nice weather, stay close to my hotel, and take care of some more mundane matters.

My "hotel" in Kotor - my room is on the third floor (with open shutter)
My “hotel” in Kotor – my room is on the third floor (with open shutter)

I had fallen behind in my postcards, so I picked up a few of those and also found the appropriate stamps.  Instead of just asking “Engleski?”, I graduated to asking “Govorite li engleski?”  I probably butchered it quite badly but I still think it is important to make the effort and acknowledge that you are not in an English-speaking country.

Inside the walled town of Kotor, with some of fortifications visible above the city.
Inside the walled town of Kotor, with some of fortifications visible above the city.

One of the challenges with the language here is that the emphasis often falls on the first syllable of a word – it’s completely different from Italian, for example, where the emphasis is usually on the second-last syllable of a word. I also tried to communicate in the Montenegrin language at the bus station, where I figured out the schedule and bought a ticket for today’s bus trip to Dubrovnik and then Split.  The ticket seller appreciated my linguistic effort, but was much less appreciative of my use of a 100-Euro note to pay for a 14-Euro fare.   Unfortunately, bank machines here dispense very large denominations and it’s really overkill for most purchases.

View from my lunch table, overlooking the Bay of Kotor (Dobrota, Montenegro)
View from my lunch table, overlooking the Bay of Kotor (Dobrota, Montenegro)

I then decided to wander around both the old town of Kotor and the newer town of Dobrota.  No shocking discoveries, just a pleasant Mediterranean afternoon.  After catching up on some e-mail, I decided to return to my vacation and stopped by the hostel.  There is usually a special event of some kind at 8:30 each night:  there was a free dinner twice, while the other two nights featured free sangria and cocktails.  It was a chance to say goodbye to my fellow “road trippers” and to swap travel stories with some new hostel residents.  Several were from France, but there was one from Lithuania and one from New Jersey!  You never know who you are going to run into or where they have been.

View of the walls of Kotor and the fortifications above the town
View of the walls of Kotor and the fortifications above the town

I’m pleased to report that my two bus trips today were very much in control and I didn’t have any concerns about my safety.  Sadly, though, we were delayed for nearly two hours just past Dubrovnik because of a serious traffic accident.   We saw the ambulances racing to the scene and then saw them leave about half an hour later.  When they left, the ambulance lights were flashing but there was no siren and they weren’t going too fast.  A traveller on the bus from Colorado thought it meant that there had been fatalities.  Needless to say, I couldn’t help thinking about the dangerous road trip from a couple of days ago.

More than 5 hours after departure (and after passing through Bosnia & Herzegovina’s 10 km strip of Adriatic coastline – see photo of the resort of Neum at the top of this posting), I finally arrived in Split.

Split is a vibrant city with thousands of people on the streets.  You couldn’t move!  I’ve never seen a city with so many people in the downtown core.  After eating at a restaurant near the fringes of the old city, I emerged to fireworks above the waterfront area.    Well, it turns out that today was probably the biggest civic celebration of the year for Split:  the Feast Day of St. Domnius.  While the intense crush of people was kind of intimidating when I first arrived, tomorrow should be much calmer in Split.  I can do some proper sightseeing then.

Posts from the road

A brief visit to Trebinje

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(Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

After a wacky bus ride from Mostar, I’m staying briefly in the small city of Trebinje.  It’s located very close to the borders of both Croatia and Montenegro.  However, it’s also located in the “Republika Srpska” (“RS” for short) and I should briefly explain that.

Mepas Mall in Mostar. I visited here just before leaving for Trebinje
Mepas Mall in Mostar. I  took a quick look here just before leaving for Trebinje

The country of Bosnia and Herzegovina is actually comprised of two entities:  (1) the “Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina”, which is largely made up of Bosniaks and Bosnian Croats, and (2) the “Republika Srpska”, which is largely made up of Bosnian Serbs.  Furthermore, there is one small region that belongs to both the Federation and RS, as no satisfactory division could be made.  Sarajevo and Mostar are both in the Federation, while Trebinje is in the RS.  The borders correspond more or less to the front lines at the time of the ceasefire in 1995.

It’s quite different here:  the Cyrillic alphabet dominates and there are many signs, etc., reminding people that they are in the RS.  As Trebinje is a smaller city and does not attract as many tourists, I seem to be more of a curiosity here.  Many people speak only Serbian.  There also isn’t much war damage here as the front lines were farther to the west.

There are at least three major sights in Trebinje:  the “monastery” of Hercegovacka Gracanica, the Arslanagic bridge, and the walled old town.

Hercegovacka Gracanica, atop Crkvina, as seen from the Arslanagic Bridge
Hercegovacka Gracanica, atop Crkvina, as seen from the Arslanagic Bridge

I first visited Hercegovacka Gracanica, a small monastery located at the top of a small mountain called Crkvina.  I made the 2km walk in record time due to the heavy rain.  The walk was worth it, though, as there are fabulous views from the top.  The monastery is also fascinating:  it is an exact replica of a monastery in Gracanica, Kosovo that is very important to Orthodox Serbs.  A wealthy Bosnian Serb expat financed the construction of this replica (and you can even see his picture in the artwork that covers the interior walls).  I’ve never seen such a colourful interior, even in other Orthodox churches.  Alas, because it is quite small, it was almost impossible to take a photograph that properly captured the interior.  The photo at the top of this post shows one small part, while I’m also posting a more expansive picture from a larger downtown Orthodox church that shares some of the basic colour themes (although the style is actually quite different).

Inside the "Svetog Preobrazzenja" in downtown Trebinje (Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Inside the “Svetog Preobrazenja” in downtown Trebinje (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

From the top of Crkvina, I descended to the Trebinsnica River and the Arslanagic Bridge. This bridge also dates back to the Ottoman period (1574), but it has little else in common with the old bridge in Mostar.  The Arslanagic Bridge was not harmed in the war but it was relocated in the 1970s from its original location in the downtown core.    I should mention that I narrowly missed stepping on a (presumably) dead hedgehog as I neared the bridge.  I have a photo if anybody wants to see it.

 

View of Trebinje (including Arslanagic Bridge, at centre-right),from top of Crkvina
View of Trebinje (including Arslanagic Bridge, at centre-right),from top of Crkvina

Finally, I wandered through the walled old  town.  It’s quaint but not as prettied up as some other old towns:  many people still live within the walls and I discovered that it attracts attention if you take photographs.

View of the old town, Trebinje
View of the old town, Trebinje

As for the “wacky” bus ride…it was normal for the first hour or so.   The driver then seemed to be running a lot of personal errands, so he made up for lost time by driving exceptionally fast on narrow mountain roads.  He also smoked, made phone calls, did paperwork, drank water, snacked and repeatedly spit out the window while driving.  Strangely, I preferred it when he did these other tasks, as it seemed to slow him down a bit.

I was the only passenger who actually crossed the Federation/RS border.  There were a lot of other passengers on either side but they only travelled within their own entity.  Even though the two entities belong to the same country, there appears to be little interaction between them.

I’m leaving Bosnia & Herzegovina tomorrow morning.  I hear that the weather will improve…just in time for me to appreciate the legendary Dalmatian coast!

Posts from the road

A Tranquil Day

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(Mostar, Bosnia & Herzergovina)

After some gritty images in my last two posts, I’m looking at a more tranquil side of Herzegovinian life today.

I began by visiting the nearby village of Blagaj.  To be honest, I had never heard of it before coming here.  However, I wanted to explore outside of Mostar and Blagaj was the only vaguely touristy place that I could reach by public transportation.  I had hoped to go on a group excursion to see an assortment of local attractions but there were no spaces available.

Of course, the journey is often just as important as the destination.  I had to take a local bus to get to Blagaj.  When it’s not your country and not your language, something as simple as taking the local bus becomes a real adventure.  Finding and figuring out the bilingual (Croatian/Bosnian) city bus schedule, for a Sunday, proved to be a worthy challenge.

Alas, the bus was late and a local gentleman began asking me questions about Blagaj in Bosnian (or was it Croatian?).  I was glad to be mistaken for a local, but could only mutter “Engleski?” in response.  He shrugged and walked away.  Hoping that nothing was wrong with the bus, I boarded it apprehensively a few minutes later when it finally pulled up to the bus stop.  The bus driver sure seemed determined to make up for lost time, so I held on tight and hoped that the bus had functioning brakes.  I hopped off the bus at what seemed to be a more-or-less central location in Blagaj and began to explore.

The Tekija in Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina
The Tekija in Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina

As it turns out, Blagaj really has only one major attraction:  the Tekija, a “monastery” for Turkish dervishes.  I had to remove my shoes and leave them outside, as per the custom for Muslim buildings (I have to do the same thing in my hotel).  TheTekija was peaceful and well-suited for quiet contemplation.  It also has a spectacular setting:  immediately below a cliff face, out of which roars a turbulent river.  So turbulent, in fact, that a number of the nearby restaurants had their patio seating (unintentionally) under water.  I took a few pictures and, after a cursory look around downtown Blagaj, managed to find my way back to Mostar.

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The Tekija, the Buna River, a very large rock, and an almost submersed bridge (Blagaj, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

After buying and writing some postcards, I decided to do something that I have never done before:  visit a mosque and climb to the top of its minaret.  The Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque in Mostar is a national monument, so non-Muslims are allowed to go inside, to climb the minaret, and even to take pictures (something I confirmed with the attendant, as this is usually not the case).  They even allow you to keep your shoes on, as a special covering is on the floor where tourists walk.  The mosque was relatively austere inside; like almost all religious buildings in Mostar, it had to be rebuilt after the war.

Inside the mosque
Inside the mosque

The climb to the top of minaret was quite a challenge.  Very narrow, very steep, very circular, and even very wet as you neared the top.  Reverting to a legal frame of mind, I briefly considered the liability issues.  When I finally emerged from the stairs, there was a frighteningly narrow viewing platform that was drowning in at least one inch of water.  I’m so glad that I bought waterproof hiking shoes for this trip!  Holding on tightly to the railing and taking very small and splooshy steps, I then enjoyed the most fantastic 360′ view of Mostar (the photo at the top of today’s blog post is from here).  Of course, my sensations may have been “heightened” by the challenging conditions I endured to get to and move around the top of the minaret.

Mostar's East Bank, from the Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque's minaret
Mostar’s East Bank, from the Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque’s minaret

All in all, it was a mostly peaceful day.  However, I readily admit that it might not have been so peaceful for somebody with a fear of heights, water, watery heights, enclosed spaces and/or excess speed.  There is always another side of the story, even when visiting tranquil sites!

Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque (Mostar) - was the minaret really leaning that much?
Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque (Mostar) – was the minaret really leaning that much?

Posts from the road

Mostar

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(Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

From Sarajevo, it is a 3-hour bus ride south through the mountains to the historic city of Mostar.

Like many communities in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Mostar is known to many people only as the scene of horrific fighting during the war of the early 1990s.   It had a remarkable 400+ year-old bridge but that too was destroyed during the recent conflict.   The bridge has since been rebuilt in accordance with the original design (see above) and using the same materials.  Many hoped that this highly symbolic reconstruction would accelerate the patching up of relations between the former adversaries.  I’ll return to this question later.

But first – some background information on the conflict in the Mostar area.  At the beginning of the war, the Bosnian Serbs were essentially driven out of the city by the combined Bosniak (Muslim) and Bosnian Croat forces.  However, conflict then arose between the Bosniaks and Croats.  The Bosniaks controlled the east side of the Neretva River, while the Croats controlled most of the west side.  In 1993, the worst year of fighting, the bridge was destroyed.  The cemeteries are filled with those who perished that year.

Looking down Onešćukova ulica in Mostar's old town
Looking down Onešćukova ulica in Mostar’s old town

Even after only one day here, it seems to me that Mostar was affected by the war even more than Sarajevo.  Many buildings in the city still lie in ruins, although some tremendous restoration work has been done.  The old town is an incredibly picturesque place, with narrow, twisting streets and stairways and bridges leading in all directions.  The old bridge truly is something to behold – both as a sight to be seen from a distance and as something to cross.  The views from the bridge itself are also spectacular.

View from the old bridge in Mostar (Bosnia & Herzegovina)
View from the old bridge in Mostar (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

There are quaint restaurants appearing all over the “tourist zone” – and, if you avoid one notorious area with great views but poor food, there are restaurants that even locals can recommend.   It also is even cheaper than Sarajevo, although I think that many restaurants are still out of reach of the average local resident.  As you can see from the photographs, there is a purely aesthetic reason that tourists are showing up here in increasing numbers.

However, Mostar is not as big as Sarajevo (the capital) and does not have as many foreign residents.  There are fewer buffers and intermediaries.  As a result, the “war reminders” that I described in my posting on the Sarajevo Siege seem even more intense here.  Despite the undeniable beauty and the reconciliation efforts that have been made by both sides, one still feels tension.  Of course, I just might be more aware of it now that I’ve been in the country for a few days.

Hotel Neretva - luxury hotel destroyed in the early 1990s and still standing on the riverfront (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
Hotel Neretva – luxury hotel destroyed in the early 1990s (Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

As a result of this tension, I’m glad that I splurged a little on my accommodations.  It’s very peaceful and relaxing, as I’m staying in a mansion that was originally built during the Ottoman period by a wealthy family.   It is a “national monument” with impenetrable walls that started as a museum and subsequently became a hotel as well.   My room is furnished (with original items!) as it was a century ago.  There are “curtains” around my bed, oriental carpets, a ceiling intricately carved out of wood (!), and arches over each of my 5 windows.  If you want to see more pictures and details, check out the website at http://www.muslibegovichouse.com.

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Muslibegovic House in Mostar – my room is on the 2nd floor (1st floor in Europe), closest to the camera.

Posts from the road

The Siege of Sarajevo

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(Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

I went on a guided tour today that was based on “The Siege of Sarajevo”.  The city was besieged for almost 4 years in the early 1990s, until an internationally-facilitated peace accord finally stopped the hostilities throughout the new nation of Bosnia & Herzegovina.

I am really trying to avoid taking sides or politicizing this blog.   However, I should provide at least a little bit of non-contentious, factual background to help contextualize what I’ll be seeing on this trip.  There are many stories arising from the Bosnian conflict of 1992-1995; today, I’ll just focus on the Siege of Sarajevo.  I also won’t speculate on the causes, the blame, or any of the external issues that affected the conflict.

Bosnia & Herzegovina was one of the independent nations that emerged from the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991-2.  While there is at least one exception (Kosovo was part of Serbia when Yugoslavia was still united), each independent nation that exists today was originally a republic within Yugoslavia prior to its breakup.  Bosnia & Herzegovina was somewhat different, though, as it contained significant populations of three major religious groups:  Bosnian Croats (Catholic), Bosnian Serbs (Orthodox), and Bosniaks (Muslims).  Ethnically and linguistically, these groups are basically identical.  They have also lived together for many hundreds of years with very few disputes.  However, from 1992-1995, these groups were in conflict.

During the Siege, Sarajevo was virtually surrounded by Bosnian Serb forces.  Life in Sarajevo during the Siege was very hard and there was no real connection to the outside world.  Imagine not taking a bath or shower for 3 years because there was no running water (or electricity, for that matter) and no access to the rivers…but there were much more serious dangers.

Looking northeast from Sarajevo
Looking northeast from Sarajevo

Our guide talked extensively about the snipers positioned throughout the mountains surrounding Sarajevo.  Because the mountains are so close (the city is actually located on the lower slopes), venturing outside one’s home raised the very real possibility of death or grievous injury from sniper fire.  You basically lived in your basement and hoped to survive until tomorrow.  Our guide was a teenager at the time and lost both his grandmother and uncle, as well as numerous cousins, to such sniper fire.  His childhood best friend was killed by a grenade.   Over 11,500 Sarajevans, of all “groups”, died during the Siege.

View from mountains above Sarajevo (note cemetery at centre left)
View from mountains above Sarajevo (note cemetery)

As the war went on, the besieged city eventually became tenuously connected to the outside world through the daring construction of an 800 metre long tunnel under the UN-controlled airport.  We walked through a small portion of the narrow tunnel (1.0 by 1.6 metres) – it was hard enough without carrying 70 kg of supplies or dealing with the deep water that flooded the tunnel.  However, even if you could get to the tunnel entrance and then make it through the tunnel itself, you still needed to cross a further kilometre of extremely dangerous land before reaching an area that could be considered “safe”.

The Tunnel Museum (Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
The Tunnel Museum (Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina), end of the tunnel and pockmarked by bullets

After viewing the tunnel, we went back into the mountains where snipers were based…and where the 1984 Winter Olympic bobsled and luge events were held.  It was startling to see the sports facilities lying in such desolation.  They haven’t been used since the war started, nor have they been maintained.  The mountain lifts, hotels and restaurants were shattered concrete shells that were being swallowed up by the encroaching weeds and forest (the photo at the top of this post is actually the top station of a cable car).  Our guide took us to a place where we could safely walk down the crumbling bobsled track for about 15 minutes.   Instead of being invigorating, however, it felt dangerous…almost like the war was still going on.  The mountain was silent, abandoned, and shrouded by wild vegetation and a thick mist.  It was impossible to conceive of this spot being the site of a joyous Olympic celebration.

1984 Olympic bobsled run (Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
1984 Olympic bobsled run (Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina)

We saw and heard much more.  We began to lose track of the cemeteries, explosion sites and “former buildings”.  Yet this was only one location:  similar stories, with different parties and roles, occurred throughout the dissolving Yugoslavia.  It was hard to reconcile this with the safe and comfortable feeling I had yesterday in downtown Sarajevo.

Looking for some balance, I treated myself to a nice dinner afterwards.  I can’t imagine facing the reminders of this conflict on a daily basis…but, despite ongoing reconstruction efforts, that is precisely what many residents of Bosnia & Herzegovina still do.

Finish line at the 1984 Sarajevo Olympics
Finish line at the 1984 Sarajevo Olympics