Tag Archives: Chile

10 years later – what has happened since?

May 12, 2024 pierrev Leave a comment

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

During my 2014 travel year, I visited a lot of countries. You can look at the countries and statistics in this post: Travel by the Numbers | Pierre Vanderhout’s Travel Blog.

*The first time I have eaten at a place called “La Cucaracha” (13th Avenue, Cathedral Village, Regina, Saskatchewan)*

Looking back, it is even more interesting to see where I thought about going (to the point of checking airfares and flight schedules)…but ultimately didn’t visit then. Those countries were: Chile, Argentina, Ecuador, Fiji, French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Namibia, Slovenia, Latvia, Lithuania, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo, Serbia, (North) Macedonia, Russia, Ukraine, St. Lucia, St. Kitts and Nevis, Bermuda, Bhutan, the United Arab Emirates and Greenland. Oh yes, I also wanted to visit Saskatchewan!

*A Christmas market in downtown Copenhagen, Denmark, with Christiansborg in the background*

Even in 2014, real-life events took some of these countries off the list. And obviously a lot has happened since then. But have I made it to any of those places in the intervening 10 years?

*Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point (Bryce Canyon, Utah)*

The answer is…yes! Most notable was a couple of weeks in South America, where I managed to visit both Chile and Argentina. I also finally made it to Saskatchewan! That was important to me because it was the only Canadian province or territory that I had never visited. Alas, I haven’t yet made it to any of those other countries…before or after 2014. In a way, I suppose that I have been to Slovenia, although it was still part of Yugoslavia at the time.

*At the top of Horseshoe Bend (near Page, Arizona)*

A lot of my travel since 2014 has been to previously visited countries, provinces, and states. However, I have visited a couple of completely new entities since then: Denmark and St. Pierre & Miquelon, which is a “self-governing territorial overseas collectivity” of France. I certainly hadn’t foreseen those destinations in 2014. And while there aren’t any remaining Canadian provinces or territories to see for the first time, I have since made it to several “new” American states: Nevada, Utah (see photo at the very top of this post), Arizona, and Pennsylvania.

Looking ahead, I know I’ll be taking at least two international trips in the next 12 months. Stay tuned to find out if those trips include any of the “2014 wish list” destinations!

Posts from Base Camp

The light at the end of the tunnel?

December 26, 2020 pierrev Leave a comment

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

That may seem like a strange thing to say in a travel blog, as my part of the world enters another extended pandemic lockdown. But even if the quantities are extremely limited so far, the arrival of the first vaccines certainly fills me with some hope. Enough hope that I actually signed out some travel-related books during a recent trip to the library.

My first travel book? A guide to the Netherlands! We really enjoyed our 2014 trip, and we’d like to explore some different corners of the country the next time. As for *when* that might happen, it’s far too early to say. But after not reading a travel book for almost a year, I think it’s significant that I actually picked one up this month.

Waiting for the boat at Puerto Frias, Argentina

In fact, I also checked out a website for the small-group tour company I used for my Latin American trips in 2014, 2014 (again!) and 2016. It’s still far too early to think about when something like that might happen…but the fact that I looked is encouraging.

The German Shepherd “sat” on the bench with his owner for at least 15 minutes (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

As I begin to consider the possibility of travelling again, my next step will be refreshing my memory on the details of some of my recent trips. While broad impressions always stay with me, some of the finer details can get lost in the shuffle. Once again, this blog makes that task pretty easy. I’m looking forward to rediscovering some of those experiences. Today’s post contains some favourite photos from Chile (the one at the very top is Volcán Osorno, taken from Puerto Varas) and Argentina!

Another picture of El Ateneo bookstore (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

I’m also about to embark on some language training. It may not be strictly essential, but it definitely makes great travel experiences easier to have. This time, I won’t be relying on free apps to learn! I’m a little apprehensive about being in a language classroom again, after more then 30 years, but it might provide the structure necessary to truly progress.

One of our friends prepares to dig in (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

In the meantime, there may be some very dark months ahead. Quite apart from the serious health crisis we are facing, there will be a lot of “everyday” personal disappointments for all of us. For example, although it was only going to be for three nights, I still had to cancel our planned winter getaway due to the latest lockdown. I’m going to do my best to keep looking forward, knowing this current state of affairs won’t last forever.

The main “street” of Recoleta Cemetery (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Stay tuned – in addition to some general travel stuff, I’ll be sharing some previously unpublished photos and stories from my 1999 adventures in Bavaria and Bohemia!

Posts from Base Camp

Crash Course in Spanish…and Taking a Blog Break!

September 5, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a very long trip from Buenos Aires to Kingston (via Santiago and Toronto), we finally made it back home. Despite some challenges, we had a great time and have an entirely new appreciation of two large and distant countries. We will certainly return to South America some day!

You may remember my post about taking a “Duolingo” crash course in Spanish just before departure. We actually kept on taking the courses while we traveled, as this gave us an opportunity to apply what we were learning. In terms of vocabulary, the app was a great way to learn a lot of words in a very short period of time. We felt very comfortable in restaurants; it was also possible to figure out the essence of newspaper articles. As for non-food conversations…this was a lot more challenging.

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesus. in Puerto Varas (Chile)

Duolingo was teaching us “Castilian” Spanish: the Spanish spoken in the Castile region of Spain. This was fine for reading. However, there are some very dramatic differences in jargon and pronunciation between Castilian and Chilean or Argentinian Spanish. To name just one: the “LL” combination, which is pronounced like the English letter “Y” in Spain or Chile, is pronounced as “SH” in Argentina. Not even close!

Making things even more difficult was the speed of the language. A large proportion of Argentinians have at least some Italian ancestry, so it was not too surprising that the pace and rhythm of the Spanish here sounded almost like Italian. We also found that Duolingo was not as effective in learning grammar. We learned the basics but the subtleties of tenses, etc., are not well suited to a mobile app.

Still, we are really glad that we made the effort to learn some Spanish. It ensured that we ate well…and, perhaps more importantly, gave us a push to resume our language studies in French and German. We have a stronger grammatical foundation in those languages, so the Duolingo emphasis on vocabulary makes it a useful way of achieving fluency. As a result, nearly 6 weeks after returning home, we are still using Duolingo for French and German! We have not continued our Spanish studies…but will be well-positioned to pick it up quickly the next time we need it.

We were very surprised to see a submarine in Puerto Montt, Chile!

And now, it is time to look into the future. I have been creating blog posts on at least a weekly basis since February of 2014. While I do have at least one major trip planned for this winter, I am going to be decreasing the frequency of posts for the next little while.

I took lots of pictures of Volcán Osorno (Puerto Varas) - including the photo at the top of this post — I took lots of pictures of Volcán Osorno (Puerto Varas) – including the photo at the top of this post

I hope you’ll keep reading the blog. I encourage you to use its handy search function: with well over 200 posts to date, I’m sure you’ll find something of interest! There will be travel flashbacks and other travel-related posts from time to time…and rest assured that I will resume frequent posting during periods of travel. There is some exciting and unusual stuff in the works!

Posts from the road

A very brief stay in Bariloche

August 2, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Bariloche, Argentina)

Travel is a series of trade-offs. You can’t do everything…and sometimes the unplanned and chaotic can be just as rewarding as a carefully curated itinerary.

The loneliest Chilean police station - somewhere between Peulla, Chile and Puerto Frias, Argentina — The loneliest Chilean police station – somewhere between Peulla, Chile and Puerto Frias, Argentina

As you can tell from my past two posts, we had a sensational day of travel from Peulla to Bariloche. Our friends in the group tour did not have quite the same experience when they made that trip a day earlier in windy and rainy conditions. However, while we were catching up to them under the brilliant Andean sun, they were able to enjoy the resort of Bariloche in that same great weather. You win some, you lose some.

I had hoped to go skiing in Bariloche: it’s been a long-shot dream of mine to ski on every continent and South America would have been the 4th. Alas, we had to move on to Buenos Aires the very next morning and it was logistically impossible for me to do any skiing in Bariloche. Well, this now gives me an even better excuse for a future trip to Argentina and/or Chile. There is so much to see and do in these two countries; we could not hope to get more than just a small sample in less than two weeks.

A winter rose in front of the customs office in Puerto Frias, Argentina — A winter rose in front of the federal buildings in Puerto Frias, Argentina

We did at least have a chance to visit downtown Bariloche for a group dinner at the Familia Weiss restaurant. As you can tell from the name of the restaurant, there is a very strong German-speaking history in this part of Argentina.

Feeding the seagulls en route from Puerto Blest to Puerto Pañuelo, Argentina

Starting in the mid-1800s, immigrants from the various German-speaking nations in Europe found their way to this part of South America. Their influence lives on in the Germanic cuisine, the alpine architecture, and the many chocolate makers who continue to compete for the tourist dollar. I hadn’t expected to eat Gulasch mit Spätzle in the shadow of the Andes…but why not?

Time for selfies at La Cascada Los Cántaros near Puerto Blest, Argentina

While we would have liked to spend more time in the mountains around Bariloche, we were assured that we would love our next stop: the legendary city of Buenos Aires. It’s a huge place with about 14 million people…and, at the end of the 19th century, it was one of the richest cities in the world. While the city and the country alike have faced many challenges since then, those long-ago glory days are still very much apparent today.

One does not go home hungry from Argentinian restaurants: a typical dessert in Bariloche

Upon arrival at the Jorge Newbery airport, we were whisked to our hotel in the southern part of the Recoleta barrio. Over the next few days, we would visit various barrios and get a feel for the different characteristics of each one. Stay tuned for lots of coverage of this fascinating, if atypical, South American metropolis!

Posts from the road

Trying to Enter Argentina – Day Two

July 28, 2016 pierrev 2 Comments

(Puerto Blest, Argentina)

We awoke to unexpectedly sunny skies and beautiful views in Peulla, Chile. However, the brightest part of our day was the news we received during breakfast: we finally had the missing bar code! We could finally cross the border!

Waterfall on the road between the Chilean and Argentinian border posts

The day got better and better. Shortly after passing Chilean customs (located at the edge of Peulla, rather than at the border itself), we saw a pair of condors! At first I only saw the female but then I also saw the male a short distance away. These birds are huge! The wingspan can be more than 3 metres (10 feet) and the male looked to be that size when he eventually flew away. It is difficult to describe how thrilling it is to see such a large, wild creature in its natural habitat.

Condors! The female is in the centre of the picture

While it was hard to top our condor sighting, we still saw plenty of vertiginous waterfalls and snow-capped mountains as we continued our lonely journey in the no-man’s-land between the Chilean and Argentinian border posts. We didn’t see any pumas, but you can’t have it all!

Mount Tronador, as seen from just a few km inside the Chilean border

The bus climbed higher and higher to the Argentinian border: high enough, in fact, that there was a significant amount of snow at the point where Chile becomes Argentina. We had found snow in July! Even if there was an unexpected snag at the upcoming border control at Puerto Frias, at least we could say that we had set foot in Argentina.

Looking back to where we had just been - right on the Chilean/Argentinian border — Looking back to where we had just been – right on the Chilean/Argentinian border

Thankfully, the only hassle at Puerto Frias was the glare of the sun on the pristine mountain lake (see photo at the top of this post). While it was challenging for photography, it was a blissful to bask in the sun and to finally leave our border crossing problems behind us. A short, refreshing boat ride to Puerto Alegre and then an even shorter bus ride to Puerto Blest followed.

We finally made it to the Argentinian border!

Stay tuned for a refreshing excursion from Puerto Blest and the reunion with our group in Bariloche!

Posts from the road

Trying to cross the Andes to Argentina

July 26, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Peulla, Chile)

The plan was clearly laid out: using 4 different buses and 3 different boats, we would travel from Puerto Varas, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina. The various modes of transportation are required for a good reason: in addition to crossing various lakes, we would also be crossing the Andes.

The mellow end of the waterfalls at Petrohue, Chile

There was one small problem, however. If you are travelling on a Canadian passport, you must pay a “reciprocity fee” to enter Argentina because Canada charges Argentinians a visa fee to enter Canada. My wife duly paid the fee online in advance, as required, and obtained an invoice proving payment. However, the border officials also apparently required all of this in a bar code format, which my wife did not have. In addition, her e-mail account was locked because her e-mail provider was apparently not used to her accessing the account from South America.

A huge waterfall hidden in the rainforest above Peulla, Chile

To make a long story short, we could not progress beyond the Chilean border town of Peulla until she had that magic bar code. We reluctantly said goodbye to our tour group and booked a room at the Hotel Natura Patagonia in Peulla. It was situated nicely (I took the photo at the top of this post from our room), near the shore of Lago dos Todos Santos and in the shadow of the Andes. However, there was nothing else in the “town” and it was very definitely out of season. How long would it take until this was straightened out? Would it *ever* be straightened out?

Bar made out of a tree, at the Hotel Natura Patagonia in Peulla, Chile

We did not know the answers to our questions. Our group had moved on to Bariloche, Argentina and would then be flying on to Buenos Aires. The rain was pouring in Peulla and, to be honest, we were getting quite frustrated with our situation. We wouldn’t know anything else until the next morning, when the Argentinian immigration office in Buenos Aires opened again.

The Hotel Natura Patagonia in Peulla, Chile

I went for a hike to the only accessible local attraction: a huge waterfall hidden in the rainforest. I got soaked, even with an umbrella, but it was awe-inspiring to see the waterfall suddenly appear at the end of an overgrown trail. The picture above shows part of it; the waterfall went on and on.

Condor sign at the national park in Peulla, Chile. Could it mean something?

Near the dock in Peulla, I saw a signs with information about condors, pumas and pudús. The pudú is the world’s smallest deer and I thought I might see one while we were in the area. I held out no hope for the others.

Darkness arrived early. We had a very quiet dinner in the oversized hotel dining room. There were perhaps 6 other occupied rooms in the hotel; there would ordinarily be hundreds of guests. Being in immigration limbo in a nearly deserted hamlet in the middle of the dark, cold and wet Andean winter…it doesn’t get much more desolate than that!

Posts from the road

Hiking at Volcán Osorno

July 24, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Puerto Varas, Chile)

While there is more than one volcano visible from Puerto Varas, Volcán Osorno is the most dominant. Right now, it is reminiscent of Mount Fuji as only the top half of the volcano is covered in snow. When the opportunity arose to hike here, we took full advantage of it…despite the high risk of rain. The lake district receives an exceptionally high amount of rain and very slippery hiking conditions were a real possibility.

After driving by numerous roadside businesses selling Kuchen, we finally arrived at Petrohue and the departure point for our hike. We would be walking for about 4 hours: a gradual ascent on the side of Volcán Osorno followed by a descent to the shores of Lago Todos los Santos (see photo at the top of this post) and then hopefully a boatride back to our mid-afternoon lunch in a Petrohue fisherman’s house.

On the shore of Lago dos Todos Santos, Chile — On the shore of Lago Todos los Santos, Chile

We spent most of the first half of the walk looking up at Volcán Osorno. It is not even 3000m high but it looks much taller because there are no peaks nearby and the base is essentially at sea level. Once again, I took a lot of photographs. This was a good thing: the light was tricky and the glare made it hard to see the volcano in most of the pictures. It felt good to be walking in the clean air and we weren’t slowed by the sand-like trail that felt a bit like walking in snow.

Crossing a somewhat incomplete bridge in the rainforest near Petrohue, Chile

The last part of our walk was through a rainforest close to the lake. This was reminiscent of Costa Rica, but without tarantulas and large mammals. There is little that can harm you in Chilean rainforests! We were also very happy that it did not actually rain during our hike: it is rare to have consecutive days without rain at this time of year.

The challenges of boarding a boat without a dock

When we finally arrived at the beach, there was a boat waiting for us. While boarding was made very difficult by the lack of a dock, we eventually made it on and travelled a short distance down Lago Todos los Santos to our captain’s house: as a reward for our long trek, we were being treated to a home-made lunch. We each had the choice of freshly caught lake trout or wild boar. We both went for the trout and it was very good.

The bus ride back to Puerto Varas was very quiet. I think people were both tired from the hike and aware that we would be attending a traditional Chilean barbeque that evening.

A Chilean dog helping out with the raking (Petrohue, Chile)

It was a real adventure to reach Marcelo’s house on spooky gravel roads and through almost total darkness. However, once we arrived, it felt like having a big family dinner in Swiss alpine hut. My favourite part was the “choripan“: this consists of a sausage (chorizo) on a bun (pan), topped with a honey mustard sauce and huge bean sprouts. I had more than one: when it came time for the main course of barbequed pork and grilled vegetables, I stuck mainly to the vegetables.

Marcelo at the grill, preparing a Chilean barbeque

While we’re loving the natural beauty of the Puerto Varas area, our time in Chile is limited and we’ll soon be moving on to another country…or will we?

Posts from the road

Arrival in Chile’s Lake District

July 22, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Puerto Varas, Chile)

After a couple of days in the Santiago area, we flew down to Puerto Montt, the “capital” of the Chilean lake district. Our first stop was the market in the Angelmó district: while originally a fish market, it has grown to include cheese, meat, vegetables, and various other edible sea products such as barnacles and seaweed. Now that cruise ships occasionally call at Puerto Montt, it also has more tourist-oriented items such as wood carvings, ponchos, and wool gloves, socks and toques.

We bought cheese from this vendor at the Angelmo Market in Puerto Montt

While Puerto Montt is one of the fastest-growing cities in South America, nature is still very prominent here. We were entertained by sea lions in the harbour; we suspect that they were asking for food. They seemed quite playful until one suddenly lunged forward and barked at us: it was quite loud and we all took a few steps back from the shore. We also saw lots of pelicans: if you haven’t seen one fly before, it is very odd to see an airborne bird with such a large beak.

Sea lions at the harbour in Puerto Montt

From Puerto Montt, we drove to our home for the next two nights: the resort town of Puerto Varas, on the shores of Lago Llanquihue (pronounced somewhat like “Yon-Kee-Way”). This town has a rich German-speaking history that is reflected in the family names, the architecture, and the “Kuchen” (cakes) for sale everywhere. Most of the original European settlers here were from Germany, Switzerland or Austria: they were attracted here in the 1800s by offers of free land. Our Spanish-speaking bus driver was named Helmut.

One of the outdoor stalls at the Angelmó market in Puerto Montt, Chile

While the Andean lakeside setting is beautiful, Puerto Varas is probably best known for its (weather-permitting) stunning views of Volcán Osorno…the Osorno volcano that last erupted in 1869. It is seen from the Puerto Varas harbour, in the photo at the top of this post. I’ll be writing more about this volcano later!

For lunch, we went to a private home for a very typical dinner from this part of Chile: curanto. While it was originally cooked underground, it is now more frequently prepared in a large conventional pot. It is a collection of many ingredients, most notably a huge amount of mussels and clams. However, it also contains potato dumplings and regular (albeit colourful) potatoes. While it also used to contain sea lion and seagull, these are now generally replaced by pork and chicken.

After taking so many photos of Volcán Osorno, it would be a shame not to pay it a closer visit. Stay tuned for the details!

Posts from the road

Trip to a Chilean Winery…and eating Santiago street food

July 19, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Santiago, Chile)

We travelled to the nearby Maipo Valley today in order to visit a local winery. We went to the Pérez Cruz winery: I was not previously familiar with it…but it turns out that Canada is its second biggest export market, after the U.K.

We stopped at this roadside cafe on the way to the winery

This was a very modern facility: all wood and curving walls. We went into the cellars to taste some not-yet-aged wine (French oak barrels are generally preferred) before seeing some of the production facilities and finally doing a taste test. I was very curious about this, as I am not much of a red wine drinker and Pérez Cruz only makes red wine.

The Perez Cruz Winery, in Chile's Maipo Valley — The Perez Cruz Winery, in Chile’s Maipo Valley

We were given samples of three limited-edition/premium red wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz) and Carménère. We were also given a plate of various cheeses and crackers. The idea is that you have a small piece of cheese with each wine. If either the cheese or the wine is overpowered by the other, it is not a good pairing. However, if they both retain their flavour, they are complementary. It was fascinating to eat a strong cheese but not taste it at all because it was overpowered by the wine. Similarly, some of the cheeses made an objectively bold-tasting wine taste like water.

Tasting new wine directly from the barrel

Much to my surprise, the taste testing confirmed that I enjoyed the Shiraz the most. It was a little sweeter than the others; we found out later that Shiraz is often chosen by those who actually prefer white wine. We are learning a lot of unexpected things here in Chile!

After returning to Santiago, we were on our own for the rest of the day. We decided to find our own lunch at the Mercado Central (“Central Market”). While this was a little touristy and focused on seafood (see photo at the top of this post), we found another market a few blocks north that catered slightly more to locals. However, if we wanted to eat, we would have to speak Spanish! We kept it simple and had a couple of very cheesy empanadas (one with shrimp, one without). Success!

We then explored Bellavista: this is known as the “Bohemian and cultural barrio” of Santiago It was probably more Bohemian than cultural, as our local guide had indeed suggested earlier. Santiago is much like Toronto in some respects: although it is a very large city, it is also a collection of neighbourhoods that have their own very strong identities.

This was where we had some Mexican-style empanadas in downtown Santiago

While we have enjoyed acclimatizing to Chile in Santiago, the real reasons for our trip to this part of the world still lie ahead. Our language training continues and we are ready for some exciting outdoor adventures!

Posts from the road

On the road again…in Chile!

July 17, 2016 pierrev Leave a comment

(Santiago, Chile)

For many, many years, I have wanted to visit Chile. After a few false starts, including a 2014 trip to Patagonia that *nearly* happened (I went to Costa Rica instead), it has finally become a reality. It’s winter here – quite a shock as Kingston temperatures have been hovering around 30’C for the past couple of weeks. Fortunately, the daytime temperatures in Santiago still get up to about 15’C. It will get much colder later in our trip!

As English-speaking tourists are not as common here as they are in Costa Rica, it really was essential for us to learn some Spanish before we got here…hence, the Duolingo crash course that my wife and I have been taking over the past week. In fact, we are still working on it, even though we have already arrived!

Avenida Londres, near our hotel in Santiago,Chile

After a long overnight flight from Canada, we just wandered around downtown Santiago today. Nothing too adventurous yet. We climbed to the top of Cerro Santa Lucía, a huge downtown park that is only a few blocks from our hotel and offers views (see photo at the top of this post) of the entire city. This is where the city was first founded. They really try to provide a safe family atmosphere: even though the park is free, they still ask people to sign in and indicate where there are from.

View from our hotel of Avenida Paris (Santiago, Chile)

We also did some grocery shopping – this is always a fun way to immerse yourself in a new place. Our main mission today was to buy some bottled water: the local water is drinkable but heavily mineralized and can be troublesome if you are not used to it. We also picked up some interesting local snacks.

Near the bottom of Serro Santa Lucia (Santiago, Chile)

Finally, we wandered through the Plaza de Armas: this is the “heart of the city” and is festooned with palm trees. It was especially busy as this was a religious festival day; we took the opportunity to visit the huge Santiago Cathedral and explore the pedestrianized Paseo Ahumada before returning to our hotel. Our hotel is in the Barrio Paris/Londres: a very small and elegant cobblestoned neighbourhood that, as the name suggests, looks like it has been transplanted from northern Europe.

Plaza de Armas - the heart of downtown Santiago — Plaza de Armas – the heart of downtown Santiago

We’re joining a small tour group for the next little while before striking out on our own at the end of our trip. We met our group for the first time tonight and it seems like a good combination of people with diverse backgrounds yet shared interests. We enjoyed dinner together outside on a rooftop in the Barrio Lastarria and will be heading out for our first group expedition in the morning. Stay tuned for our South American adventure!

Pierre Vanderhout's Travel Blog

Tag Archives: Chile

10 years later – what has happened since?

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The light at the end of the tunnel?

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Crash Course in Spanish…and Taking a Blog Break!

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A very brief stay in Bariloche

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Trying to Enter Argentina – Day Two

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Trying to cross the Andes to Argentina

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Hiking at Volcán Osorno

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Arrival in Chile’s Lake District

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Trip to a Chilean Winery…and eating Santiago street food

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On the road again…in Chile!

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The Odyssey Continues…

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The Odyssey Continues…