Tag Archives: Itinerary

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Missed Opportunities?

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From time to time, travel plans get disrupted. Today’s post is about plans that just didn’t work out!

“The Bean” in winter, downtown Chicago (an unplanned stand-in for Memphis, Tennessee)

In a February 2023 post about “Travel Regrets”, I mentioned a couple of plans that were thwarted. These included never making it to Memphis, Tennessee in March 2014, and the July 2016 visa issue that delayed our crossing from Chile to Argentina at a remote outpost in the Andes. Today’s post covers a few more examples.

North shore of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

Weather has played a role in many of my missed opportunities. In August 2014, I had arranged to go on an extended wadlopen (a hike across the muddy sea floor during low tide) from the Dutch mainland to one of the Frisian islands. This day-long activity requires a guide…and also decent weather. Learning of the expected high winds and thunderstorms, the guide decided to pull the plug. While it was disappointing, I still managed to make it out the Frisian island of Schiermonnikoog by boat. And I went for a nice walk around the dunes.

Inside the “Los 36 Billares” billiards cafe (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Poor weather also prevented me from setting foot in Uruguay. During our stay in Buenos Aires, we had hoped to take a boat across the Rio de la Plata to the historic city of Colonia del Sacramento. But nasty weather forced us to back down from that plan and spend another day in Buenos Aires instead. Among other things, we ended up having enjoyable refreshments in a billiards cafe!

Specialty shop in Westport, Ireland. I went in for the vinyl but came out with a book!

Dismal weather also torpedoed my planned ascent of Croagh Patrick, a (relatively) large mountain just outside the quaint western Ireland town of Westport. Rain, wind, and clouds conspired to make that extended trek unpleasant and possibly dangerous. Instead, I explored some local Westport institutions, such as a quaint bookstore and the local “chippy”. It wasn’t the plan, but I still have the book I bought!

The Grand Canyon, on the “Day After”

Another more dramatic weather incident happened in 2019, when I was supposed to descend the Grand Canyon in northern Arizona. Not only did we not go on that much-anticipated hike, we couldn’t even leave our hotel. And the hotel was without power for 24 hours as the state was battered by a fierce blizzard. Unlike the other “missed opportunities”, there was nothing to take the place of the canyon descent. We were cold, unable to travel, and could do little more than ensure we had enough to eat. While we managed a brief visit to the Grand Canyon the next morning, there wasn’t enough time to try even a short descent.

Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro

While weather jettisoned all of the above plans, nature wasn’t always to blame. During my May 2014 stay in Kotor, Montenegro, I signed up for a guided tour to Albania. I thought it would an interesting trip, as Albania had been so isolated before the fall of the Iron Curtain. Alas, I was the only person who was interested and the excursion was cancelled. A small group was interested in heading up to Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, and it seemed to be a reasonable alternative, so I decided to take that trip instead. While the tour guide’s driving was terrifying, I did end up seeing some little-known but spectacular scenery.

Looking straight down at the Tara River (northern Montenegro)

Even if things don’t work out as planned, they (usually) still work out in a different way…the great Grand Canyon Blizzard of 2019 being a notable exception! Sometimes the unplanned alternative even surpasses the original intention. But no matter the outcome, these missed opportunities give me a great reason to go back to some of my favourite destinations.

Posts from Base Camp

Finally! An overseas trip!

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My last overseas trip seems like it was ages ago. In reality, it was less than four years ago (March 2020) that I went skiing in Les Diablerets, Switzerland, and Morzine, France. But so much has happened since then.

The fearsome Swiss Wall, on the Switzerland/France border in the massive Portes du Soleil ski region (March 2020).

A global pandemic would be the most obvious intervening factor. But there have also been changes in travel philosophies and a personal reconfiguring of priorities. I did manage to ski in Banff in 2022, but otherwise I haven’t been on the slopes. And other than a brief trip into northern New York, I haven’t been outside of Canada since March 2020 either.

Me and my friend, the skiing “Milka chocolate” cow – near Les Gets, France (March 2020)

This has been quite a change for me. I used to ski in Europe every winter and spend every other summer vacation in Europe too. And of course there was my travel sabbatical in 2014, which prompted the creation of this blog. That year, I tackled my travel bucket list and went to Europe no less than six times.

Our ski group passing through the rocks at Pomedes (Cortina d’Ampezzo – March 2014)

So when I made the decision to ski in Europe this winter, I had to ask myself a lot of questions. Which country (or countries) should I visit? Do I try to go somewhere new? Do I return to some old haunts? Am I travelling on a budget? Will I do anything besides skiing?

Skiing by torch light down to Grindelwald (March 13, 2000)

It didn’t take long for me to realize that much has changed since early 2020. Most notably: the dramatic price increases for flights and hotels. It dawned on me that I probably wouldn’t be resuming annual ski trips to Europe. And my choice of destination was likely going to be influenced by where airfares and accommodation prices were most competitive.

Me skiing on the lower slopes of the legendary Eiger (March 2002)

I made the decision to stick with places that had special meaning for me. And so, when I found a good hotel deal in Wengen, Switzerland, I jumped at the opportunity. I’ve skied in Wengen and the linked resort of Grindelwald many times before. Not only is the skiing excellent, but I think the surrounding scenery might be the very best in any ski area anywhere. If you’ve never seen the Eiger up close (or been skiing on it!)…it is beyond spectacular. And then there’s the Jungfrau, the Schilthorn (known for James Bond and “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”)…

Looking down on Wengen from the cable car – March 2005 (skating rink and curling hall at top left)

All of that is amazing. And then Wengen itself is a car-free village perched on a cliff overlooking the famous Lauterbrunnen valley…reachable only by a special cog-wheel train. For an overall skiing experience, I don’t think it can be beat. Zermatt is bigger, and it has the Matterhorn, but I feel most at home in Wengen.

Stretching above the clouds, high above Wengen and Grindelwald, in March 2005

Trying to book my flights was a very long bout of sticker shock. I had to summon all of my tricks to find a reasonably priced itinerary that also had direct flights from Canada. On a relatively short trip, I couldn’t afford to miss flight connections (or luggage).

Ho-hum, just a midway station on the way up to the Schilthorn…

Finally, after hours and hours of trial and error, I found something that worked at an acceptable price: I would fly outbound from Montreal direct to Lyon, France, and then return home by a direct flight from Zurich to Toronto. Unusual? Yes. But it’s out of necessity: my flight costs are always increased by the need for additional leg room…and the airlines are experts in extracting every conceivable additional charge.

This way to everything! On the France-Switzerland border, March 2020.

I am excited about starting my trip in Lyon. It’s the “second city” of France, and yet people rarely talk about it as a destination. It has a beautiful old town, a reputation for great food, and is less than an hour from the Alps. And I’ve never been there. What a great way to begin!

View from my hotel room in Geneva, Switzerland (March 2020) – I’ll pass through here again this winter after visiting Lyon

I had a few days to allocate between my stays in Lyon and Wengen. In the end, I went with another sentimental choice. The Swiss side of my family is from the Simmental (Simme Valley), so I happily booked a few nights in the town of Zweisimmen (literally, where two branches of the Simme River meet). This also allows me to ski for a couple of days in the Gstaad ski region, where I have been skiing a few times with friends and family.

Skiing above Zweisimmen at Parwengesattel (March 2018)

The skiing around Zweisimmen is not quite as dramatic as Wengen, but the region has the added bonus of being my ancestral home. And you can’t put a price on that. What better way to visit my roots than by doing something I love? And I have to say that skiing is my favourite way of experiencing the mountains…no matter which mountains I’m visiting! That’s why most of this trip will be spent skiing rather than “touristing”.

My grandfather’s chalet (straight ahead) in Weissenbach, Switzerland (August 2006), just a couple of kilometers from Zweisimmen

So, that’s the trip. It has some very meaningful skiing, and also some interesting new destinations before and after the skiing. I’ll keep the last stop a mystery for now. Besides – all my hotel bookings have free cancellations, so I still have time to change my mind!

Posts from Base Camp, Posts from the road

More on Montreal…and preparing for a bigger trip

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(Montreal, Quebec, and Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a bit of a hiatus, I’m finally returning to the Montreal trip that I first blogged about a few weeks ago. 

Another view from Mont-Royal…this time, looking east

On Sunday, we visited the Museum of Fine Art. There was a special travelling exhibition about Egypt (based on mummies) for which our hotel gave us free passes. I had some initial reservations about the propriety of exhibiting the deceased, but I thought it was done in a respectful manner. They don’t break open the “cases” anymore!

Montreal’s Museum of Fine Art

Despite being a city of three million people, downtown Montreal still retains a human scale. As you can see from the following photo of Crescent Street, not all of the downtown core has been replaced by skyscrapers. And imagine our surprise when we saw Leonard Cohen looming over us! 

Crescent Street in downtown Montreal

Since then, I have had some challenges with my impending ski trip. My travel plans were affected by the rail blockade between Kingston and Toronto, and then a situation arose with the seating on my overnight transatlantic flight. When these things happen, I try to remember that travelling is a privilege. I eventually resolved each of these situations, and I fully expect to be posting about my trip soon.

Montreal is very clearly the home of Leonard Cohen

Another challenge arose when I double-checked the baggage size limitations on the train. For reasons unknown (especially since they run a shuttle between Dorval station and Dorval airport, for example), the standard baggage allowance on our passenger rail service is actually slightly smaller than the standard airline baggage allowance. Why would they do that, if they want people to take the train as part of a longer journey?

A savory “Mexican” crepe, with a blackberry smoothie

In any case, it forced me to reduce my baggage (and plan for a laundry day while travelling). Again, things usually work out in the end, but it involved some very complicated logistics to ensure I could travel with the absolute minimum amount of clothes. I already know exactly which items I will be washing on Saturday afternoon. However, I will be in trouble if the laundromat is closed!  

The Chateau Versailles (our Montreal hotel) at night

Anyway, all of this should be moot when I’m finally back in the mountains again. Even the most miserable start to a vacation, such as when the airline lost some of my luggage and my first night’s hotel was suddenly full, is quickly forgotten.  I’m looking forward to my posting my next blog entry from the Alps!

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Trip Debrief…and revealing the next destination

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From the natural landscapes to the 24-hour loss of heat and power, there certainly was no shortage of drama on my recent trip to Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.

Antelope Canyon

Ultimately, however, the loss of power was just an inconvenience. We met people the day before who cannot connect to the electrical system at all, so that put our temporary loss into perspective.  It also reminded us how utterly dependent we have become on electricity.

Antelope Canyon

From a travel strategy perspective, I was thankful that I had journeyed to these relatively remote areas as part of a group. Having that additional level of support was quite helpful, even on the days when the power remained in force.  I will continue to use small group travel in situations where I don’t think I’m properly equipped to manage on my own if things go wrong.  Off-season travel to remote locations certainly falls into that category, even if there is no language barrier.

Antelope Canyon

Having said that, I am very much looking forward to my next independent adventure.  Later this winter, I will be skiing in countries that are very familiar, but in locations that are new to me. I’ll start by spending several days in and around Les Diablerets, Switzerland. This is in the French-speaking Canton of Vaud, just a few kilometres west of my 2018 ski adventure in Lenk.

Me, hiking determinedly in Zion National Park

From there, I will travel further west for a full week of skiing in Morzine, France. While I have been in France a few times recently (including a wonderful summer 2018 trip to Normandy and Brittany), I have never been skiing there. In fact, I have never been skiing in any French-speaking part of Europe…so far, my only French-speaking skiing has been in the province of Quebec.

Antelope Canyon

Morzine should be a great base. It is part of the vast (201 ski lifts!) Les Portes du Soleil ski region, linking thirteen resorts in both France and Switzerland. We’ll be able to ski back and forth between countries, not just villages!  Stay tuned for lots more on this exciting destination in the Haute-Savoie.

Antelope Canyon

I will end this post by mentioning one more benefit of travelling in a group: being able to get great photos! All of the photos in today’s post were taken by other travellers who graciously allowed me to use them in this blog. If you want to read more, you can check out these recent posts on Antelope Canyon (Arizona) and Zion National Park (Utah).

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My next bucket list item

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I didn’t use quite as many vacation days as I was anticipating this summer, so I started looking into travel options for a late fall getaway of a week or so.  Although I usually travel independently, I felt like entrusting some of the logistics to someone else this time: for a short trip, this would help ensure that my limited time was used effectively.  As usual, my eventual destination was nowhere near what I had originally planned.

I began with looking at a return to Latin America, with Ecuador being at the top of the list.  However, I began to waver because Ecuador seemed kind of far away for just a one -week trip. As it turns out, I’m glad I didn’t move ahead with those plans: there is currently significant civil unrest in Ecuador, and my preferred tour operator has apparently cancelled a number of tours there. 

And then, inspiration hit. I was taking a look at some promotions, and found a number of tours that were 30% off the regular price. One of them caught my eye…it was in a part of the world that has been on my subconscious bucket list for ages but I somehow never got around to seeing. 

This tour ticked all the boxes: it was for a small group only (maximum 16 participants), it was an active tour with a significant amount of walking, it was off-season (and therefore wouldn’t be too busy), it would have very comfortable weather, and it wasn’t too far from home.  With it being 30% off, and finding some direct flights at an affordable price, I made a quick decision to go for  it.

So, in a few short weeks, I will be going on a tour of the “Canyonlands” of Utah and Arizona! This includes the Grand Canyon, but also places such as Bryce Canyon National Park, Antelope Canyon, and Zion National Park. My flights are to Las Vegas, so I will also get at least a brief glimpse of the glitz and glamour there…again, for the very first time.  And I also get to travel on a bit of the legendary Route 66!

I really enjoy doing long walks when I’m on holiday: it’s a great way to be “in the moment” and see things that you can’t when you’re on a bus all day.  These destinations will be especially spectacular on foot, and I understand that we will be taking a trail that descends into the Grand Canyon. 

I’m really excited about this trip.  I’m sure it will be intense but exhilirating…and will make a great prelude to my winter ski trip. That ski trip will involve a country I’ve been to before, but never for skiing.  Curious? Stay tuned to this blog!

(Today’s photos were all taken within one hour, on a walk around my sister-in-law’s place near Yarker, Ontario, Canada.)

Posts from Base Camp

Looking ahead to 2019’s trips

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The beginning of the year is always a time to reflect on past trips and think about the ones to come. Looking back to the beginning of 2018, I had some summer destinations in mind but nothing concrete (click here for the surprising resolution in early February of 2018).

View of Regenboldshorn, from Metschstand (Lenk/Adelboden, Switzerland)

In the end, my main 2018 trips were for skiing in Switzerland’s Berner Oberland, an extended summer trip to northern France, and a spontaneous road trip to New Jersey in November.  I’ve taken my favourite photos from those trips and reposted them in today’s blog entry.

The ski posse is getting a little tired by this point…we ended up skiing a total of 71 km that day! (Lenk, Switzerland)

But you probably already know all about those trips.  What’s in store for 2019?

Bayeux’s Cathedral at 11:00 p.m. (France)

For me, it looks like 2019 is going to be a year of sports travel.  In less than a month, I will be skiing for a week in a completely new (for me) ski region.  It definitely falls into that “how come I never went here before?” category:  like London (U.K.), I somehow managed to avoid this part of the world for a very long time.  The big reveal is coming up in a few weeks!

Lots of choices, high above Lenk and Adelboden (Switzerland)

As for my traditional summer trip…it’s all up to the sporting gods.  I’ll be entering a number of competitions this year and I’ll just have to see how they all work out.  I don’t even know where most of these events will take place:  I just know roughly when they will occur.  They could be local, somewhere in the province of Ontario, somewhere in Canada, or even international!

Precariously leaning house in Rouen (France)

So far, my experience with sports travel has been excellent.  Of course, skiing is always a great experience. However, that is purely recreational and it is not all that difficult to stumble upon alpine highlights.  In contrast, participating in competitions brings you into contact with people and places that you would never see as a “regular” tourist.

Vitré (France)

My 2014 hockey tour of Eastern Europe was predictably unforgettable.  But I also participated in a provincial championship in another sport in Sarnia, Ontario, last summer…and had a great time, even though I had never thought of visiting there as a “regular” tourist.  You just never know!

The Arc de Triomphe, overlooking l’avenue des Champs-Élysées (right before France’s victory parade for winning the 2018 World Cup!)

And if things don’t go too well on the competitive front this summer, I will probably have some vacation time left over in the fall.  That’s a great time of year to have some leftover vacation days!  As readers of this blog know, last-minute trips are often the very best kind.

Competing in the Novice Singles playoffs at the Ontario Lawn Bowling Association provincial championships in Ottawa, Ontario (September 2018)

Whatever happens, 2019 promises to be a very interesting travel year.

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La Victoire!

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My last post discussed the strategy involved in finding good airfares during the very expensive summer season.   I hadn’t bought our tickets yet but was on “high alert” for short-lived deals.   Much to my surprise, our tickets to an unexpected destination have now been bought!  Here’s the story…

The harbour in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

Although we have an almost endless list of potential destinations,  our preferred destination was Lithuania.  Lithuania is a slightly-off-the-radar destination in Eastern Europe that nonetheless appeared to be very rewarding.  However, one drawback of an off-the-beaten-path destination is the lack of competition between airlines.  By the time of my last post, I had already decided that the only reasonable airfares would be to nearby Warsaw (Poland), or Riga (Latvia).

The steep backstreets of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

The airfares to Vilnius (Lithuania) were generally well in excess of C$1,500.00 unless we wanted to take a very indirect route.  However, even the airfares to Warsaw were not dipping much below C$1,300.00.     We then expanded our search to places like Berlin (Germany) and Stockholm (Sweden), which would then be combined with a overnight ferry to either Latvia or Lithuania.  These prices were a bit lower but there still was nothing under C$1,000.00.

Entrance to the Citadel: Halifax, Nova Scotia

And then, just when things were appearing bleak, my strategy of subscribing to various travel mailing lists paid huge dividends.  I was notified that WestJet was introducing a new summer service from Canada to Paris.  They were offering special promotional fares for a very limited time.  We had to make a quick decision…and when the prices are that low for a summer flight to Europe, the decision is easy.  We managed to get return tickets from Montreal to Paris for less than $600 each (inclusive of fees and taxes)!  This is ridiculously low for the first half of July.

A small summer cottage in Chester, Nova Scotia

I know what you’re thinking:  Paris is not anywhere near Lithuania.  But there were a few ways to justify this.  Firstly, if we still wanted to see Lithuania, an internal European flight from Paris to Vilnius or Riga would be relatively affordable.  Secondly, we both previously have expressed interest in seeing parts of France that are close to Paris:  my wife has always wanted to see Normandy, while I have always wanted to see Brittany.  Finally, although I had visited Paris as a 10-year-old, neither one of us had been to Paris as adults (other than changing flights in Paris).

Unplanned photo in Pugwash, Nova Scotia

The more we researched northern France, the more attractive it became.  So while our summer itinerary is not yet completely settled, I suspect that this will indeed turn out to be a tour of France’s northern coast.  And, as Paris can get crowded in the summer, we have already booked our hotel there for the last few days of our trip.

The beach at Pugwash, Nova Scotia

While Lithuania looks like it is on the back burner for now, we are still thrilled about this unexpected twist.  In fact, given how much we learned about Lithuania (and Namibia, our original destination), it’s like we are getting three trips for the price of one.   That’s one of the reasons why I’m describing this unexpected turn of events as “La victoire“!  And we’ll still make it to Lithuania and Namibia in the future.

To further commemorate the near-randomness of our summer trip, I’ve included some photos from our 2009 summer trip to Nova Scotia.

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The Science of Summer Airfares

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I thought that I would be announcing our summer destination in today’s post. However, I still have not booked the flights…and until those flights are booked, it would be premature to say anything. The big reveal of our “off-the-beaten-path” destination will have to wait!

Penguin at the New England Aquarium (Boston, Massachusetts)

Finding a good deal on intercontinental summer flights is an extremely challenging task.  It’s high season and the airlines aren’t crazy:  prices are significantly higher and any special deals are extremely short-lived.

Elizabeth Cary Agassiz House, at Radcliffe College (Cambridge, Massachusetts)

For a long time, the accepted wisdom was that the best deals could be had at the last minute.  However, as technology has improved, airlines have become much better at filling flights and extracting maximum revenue from passengers.  Simply put, any seats still empty at the last minute will probably be priced very high because there will always be someone desperate enough to buy them.

A happy penguin couple at the New England Aquarium

Alas, booking far ahead of time is not effective either:  prices are usually very high because anybody booking 6-12 months ahead of time is obviously committed to the destination and the time of year.   The trick is to find the “sweet spot”, when airlines identify relatively undersold dates and destinations…and briefly reduce prices enough so that those flights get closer to full and much higher prices can be charged for the remaining seats.

The Massachusetts State House in Boston – we went on a tour here

There are some OK deals out there now.  However, they are not for our preferred destination.  They also tend to be for flights with sleepy arrival/departure times, longer layovers, older cabins, and less comfortable seats.   This is our fallback position, as these deals tend to be available for longer periods of time.

Many creatures are motivated by food (New England Aquarium in Boston)

Sometime in the next few weeks, about 5 months prior to departure, there will probably be a good deal for a good itinerary with a good airline.  The window of opportunity will be very small and we will have to take advantage of it immediately.  While one could say it’s a lot of pressure, it’s also very exciting.  Some people like finding a good deal at flea markets…I like finding a good deal on travel.  Keeping our travel costs down enables us to travel as much as we do.

Underwater at the New England Aquarium (Boston, Massachusetts)

Of course, I don’t have any pictures of “the science of airfares”.  Instead, I’ve decided to include some pictures of our 2011 trip to Boston, Massachusetts:  something completely random, to reflect the fact that we still don’t know exactly where we will end up this summer.

You can’t have too many pictures of penguins!

Stay tuned, to see if we conquered the science of airfares!

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Travel Flashback: Skiing in Scuol, Switzerland

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As the countdown continues for my upcoming Swiss ski trip, I have found some more interesting materials in the archives.  This time, the pictures are from my visits to the remote Swiss town of Scuol in the winters of 2004 and 2006.

The narrow streets of downtown Scuol (2004)

There is something to be said for letting one’s destination be a bit of a mystery.  I didn’t know anything about Scuol (pronounced “Shkwoal”) when I arrived there in March of 2004 for a Swiss Abroad ski camp.  It’s certainly not a place that I would ever have selected on my own:  the ski area does not have an international reputation.

Taking a break on the slopes of Motta Naluns (Scuol, 2004)

But what a pleasant surprise!  Instead of being an international resort where English was commonplace, Scuol was located deep in the Rumantsch-speaking region of Switzerland’s Graubünden canton.  With its narrow streets, unusual architecture, and highly distinctive regional cuisine, it was unlike any other winter resort I had previously visited.  And it was literally at the “end of the line”:  the train could go no further.

Traditional ways in the village of Sent (2006)

As you can see from the photos, the lack of international visitors is no reflection on the skiing:  one of the pistes (the “Traumpiste”, or “Dream Slope”) continued for more than 10 km from the top of the resort to the nearby village of Sent.  The ski area’s vertical drop was in excess of 5000 feet.    And yet, we rarely encountered any other skiers:  everybody you see pictured on the slopes is part of the ski camp.

Getting ready for another long piste at the top of the resort (Scuol, 2006)

I enjoyed Scuol so much that I returned to the region with my wife in the summer of 2006 and celebrated the Swiss National Day in the village of Sent.  I hope to write about our summer visit in a future post.

I’m enjoying the slopes high above the treeline (Scuol, 2006)

It is always a pleasure to discover a place like Scuol that has avoided mass international recognition.  This is what we’re hoping for in the summer of 2018.   We usually plan these summer trips well in advance and, several months ago, thought that we had found a great destination in southern Africa.  We even bought a guidebook and had blocked off the provisional dates off in our calendar.  As far as we were concerned, it was just a question of booking the flights when the airfares hit the “sweet spot”.

Near our hostel in the old part of Scuol (2004)

However, travel does not take place in a bubble.  Due to a number of external factors, including the political uncertainty in nearby Zimbabwe, we reluctantly decided to put this destination on hold.   The timing just wasn’t right.

Ready for some skicross shenanigans (Scuol, 2006)

As a result, the search for our summer destination is once again underway.  Looking at the pictures of Scuol, my desire to go somewhere off the beaten path was affirmed:  not only are such places fun, but they are also highly advisable during the summer when prices and crowds are onerous in high-profile destinations.   I’m watching the airfares closely and will pounce on the next opportunity.   Stay tuned for the details!

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Swiss Ski Camps

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(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Although I have been to Switzerland a total of 20 times, I have not been there since starting this blog in early 2014.  My only Swiss posts have been travel flashbacks to earlier trips.  Happily, that is going to change in early 2018, as I will be returning to Switzerland for an extended ski safari.

Some of my friends having lunch outdoors, at the 1992-1993 Swiss Abroad ski camp in Splügen, Switzerland

Switzerland is an expensive destination and simple economics dictated that I ski elsewhere for the past several winters.  However, I have found a way to make this work and will be skiing in both Wengen and Lenk this winter.

Me, halfway down the “Black Rock” piste above Wengen, Switzerland in 2002

Why Wengen?  You may have heard of it as a stop on the World Cup ski circuit:  the famous Lauberhorn piste is a real test of both daring and endurance.  However, I chose Wengen this year because of the great experiences I had in the Grindelwald-Wengen-Murren region (a.k.a. “Jungfrau Ski Region”)  between 1999 and 2011 with the ski camps for the Swiss Abroad.

Having lunch outside in the sun: the “Tipi” at Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland (March 12, 1999)

The Organization for the Swiss Abroad (“Auslandschweizer-Organisation”, or “ASO” for short) organizes ski camps every year for Swiss citizens who are living abroad.  I attended many of these camps and met lots of people who continue to be great friends.  In fact, my current ski posse arose from the ASO camps.  Some of us have been skiing together for 20 years!

Skiing by torch light down to Grindelwald (March 13, 2000)

The ASO camps feature a LOT of skiing, in addition to other sports and cultural activities.  It’s a great way to connect with one’s Swiss roots…and become a much better skier.  The camps tend to move around each year:   I attended camps in resorts such as Splügen, Scuol, Arosa, and Grächen.  However, I attended at least five such camps in Grindelwald and Wengen.

Me, in front of the Jungfrau (March 9, 1999)

This winter, I will have the opportunity to take up-to-date photos of the riotous scenery around Wengen.  I will also be playing the role of guide:  with all that experience, it will be a pleasure to show one of my Canadian friends some of the many highlights of these iconic mountains.

Part of my group, preparing to ski down the James Bond 007 piste from the Schilthorn to Mürren (March 11, 1999)

And the highlights are many.  There is the brilliant chocolate cake at Wengernalp.  There is the black-rated “007” ski run from the top of the Schilthorn (and its rotating restaurant), made famous by James Bond in “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”.  The black-rated pistes called “Oh God” and “Black Rock” that lead down from Eigergletscher also offer unforgettable challenges…partly because the scenery is so distracting!  Above Grindelwald, you can watch an Alpine Ibex watching you from an impossibly high and inaccessible peak.

Avalanche! The Wetterhorn, above Grindelwald, on March 13, 2000

It goes on and on.  There is the astonishing 2km sheer vertical rock face of the Eiger, which rises to a height of 3,967m:  I can think of no more intimidating mountain in the world.   To me, it is even more impressive than the adjacent Jungfrau, which rises even higher to 4,168m (13,675 feet).  There is the car-free village of Wengen, perched on top of a cliff that plunges down 500 metres to the valley below.  There is the “Tipi” at Kleine Scheidegg, where I have eaten many a sun-dappled picnic lunch outdoors…but where I am determined to have one of the freshly cooked pizzas and sausages.

About to ski down “Oh God”: March 15, 2000 (Wengen, Switzerland)

Pausing halfway down the “Oh God” piste, above Wengen (March 15, 2000)

I am really looking forward to revisiting some of these past highlights, as well as discovering new ones.  To accompany today’s post, I’ve unearthed some archival photos of my Swiss Abroad ski camp experiences from 1992 to 2002.

Looking for Ibex, high above Grindelwald in the “First” ski area (2002)

Stay tuned for more on Swiss skiing…and on my evolving plans for the rest of 2018!