(Monteverde and Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica)
As I am on a group tour, I have not had any input into the hotel selection process. The hotels on this tour (which is marketed as a “comfort” level tour) are posher than I would normally select but the tour company’s buying power enables such indulgences.
Our hotel in Monteverde was typical – a gated entrance, private shuttle from reception to all of the hotel buildings, cathedral ceilings in the rooms – and all of the rooms were west-facing so we also could see spectacular sunsets (see photo at the top of this post), if it wasn’t raining. While it was the rainy season, it rarely rains all day…usually just for a couple of hours in the afternoon.
It was possible to do some fairly demanding walks here without any heat-related consequences. You could still wear shorts during the day, although light waterproof pants seemed to be the best choice. I actually wore a jacket for the outdoor barbecue we had on our final night in Monteverde.
This comfortable state of affairs would not continue at the our next destination: the Manuel Antonio National Park. After another bone-shattering bus ride out of the mountains, we emerged on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.
Our first stop was a notorious gathering place for wild crocodiles. A restaurant and several other touristy businesses have set up shop near a bridge that passes over a crocodile-infested river. Because of the intense heat and humidity, every breath was an effort. It was approaching noon and I now completely understand why the “siesta” concept exists. In any case, the crocodiles were massive and much more evil-looking than the relatively friendly caimans I saw on my trip to the Caño Negro region. Adult male crocodiles of this species are generally 13 to 16 feet in length.
As the heat reduces your appetite, we pressed onwards for a while before grabbing lunch at a beach-front restaurant in Playa Hermosa. It was a beautiful location and I felt compelled to walk down the steps from the restaurant balcony and check out the Pacific. After walking perhaps 100 meters in total, I was totally knackered by the time I got back to our table. I can usually handle one out of the three “evils” (heat, humidity and sun) but I really struggle with two of them…and here we had all three.
I was getting concerned about how I was going to handle two full days in Manuel Antonio. Our group leader confirmed that we could expect the same conditions there; this was all the information I needed to opt out of an optional 4-hour hike the next day. I really like going for long walks but I don’t think I could have carried enough water to stay properly hydrated.
Our hotel in Manuel Antonio was also very comfortable and wonderfully located, with views over the tropical forest and the Pacific Ocean. Needing some time to adjust to the heat and humidity (which soon resulted in a torrential downpour), I enjoyed a leisurely few hours at the hotel before meeting up with my group for dinner. I’ll definitely be eating lighter food as long as I am on the coast.
I’m not going to plan too much for tomorrow. I am (foolishly?) optimistic that the weather will cool off for a day and I can comfortably explore some of this famous tourist region.