Tag Archives: Oslo

Travel Flashback – Cultural Sights in Oslo (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

There is more to Oslo than the sporting thrills described in my previous post.  We found a lot of cultural sights as well, many of them located on the Bygdøy peninsula.  While we took a bus to get back from Bygdøy to downtown Oslo afterwards, it was more fun to take a ferry there and feel like we were escaping urban life.

Happy pigs in Oslo
Happy pigs in Oslo

Our first stop was the Norwegian Folk Museum (Norsk Folkemuseum) a 35-acre outdoor complex including more than 150 buildings brought from all over Norway.   From grass-roofed farm buildings and old stave churches to cobblestoned villages and recreations of 20th century apartments, every conceivable aspect of Norwegian life over the past 1000 years was on display here.   There were costumed guides and farm animals too – I’ve included the pig photo as they just looked so happy!

Stave church
Stave church from 1212, re-assembled at the Norwegian Folk Museum

We found the more recent displays on 20th century living to be especially interesting, as they were just modern enough to look familiar but still different enough to show how much things have changed in a relatively short period of time.  Although we could have spent the entire day here, there were more Bygdøy sights to be seen.  First up was the Viking Ship Museum (Vikingskiphuset).

Not-too-distant Norwegian past
Not-too-distant Norwegian past: the early 20th-century on display at the Norwegian Folk Museum

The Viking Ship Museum is not huge, nor does it have very many items on display.  However, the well-preserved pair of ships from the 9th and 10th centuries are extremely impressive.  Seeing these elegant but nonetheless lightweight boats, particularly after our experience sailing off the northern coast of Iceland, reinforced our immense respect for the bravery of the maritime Vikings.

From the Viking Ship Museum, it was a short walk to the Maritime Museum, the Fram Museum and the Kon-Tiki Museum, all focusing on Norway’s seafaring history.  We skipped the Maritime Museum but were glad that we had enough time to visit the other two.

Viking ship
One of the original boats at the Viking Ship Museum

The Fram Museum (Frammuseet) is essentially just a shell hosting the 125-foot Fram boat used by famous Norwegian explorers Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen to travel farther into the Arctic and Antarctic oceans than anyone else had done.   We could climb and explore all over this famous ship; while fascinating (they had a piano!), it also reinforced how lonely, cold and confined these journeys must have been.  Indeed, it was difficult to take any worthwhile photos, given the cramped quarters inside.

Thor Heyerdahl's Kon-Tiki Raft
Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki Raft

Claustrophobia was the least of Thor Heyerdahl’s worries when he sailed the Kon-Tiki raft from Peru to Polynesia in 1947.  Built entirely out of materials that would have been available to early South Americans (and using only tools and techniques available to them), the idea was to show that these ancient people could have settled Polynesia.  As with the Viking ships from more than 1000 years ago, you will have immense respect for Mr. Heyerdahl and his crew once you see the lightness of the balsa-wood raft…even if the ancient Peruvians probably didn’t make such a journey themselves.

Centrepiece of Vigeland Park, Oslo
Gustav Vigeland’s Monolith at Frogner Park, Oslo

We ended our cultural day with a walk around Oslo’s Frogner Park, a 75-acre city park whose 192 sculpture groups represent the “life statement” of Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland.   The photo at the top of this post shows the centrepiece of the park, including the writhing Monolith that you see just above this paragraph.  While visitor impressions of the sculptures (especially the Monolith) range from fascination to being totally creeped out, the park remains a massive and well-used safe place in the heart of the city.

Hopefully, this account of one day in Oslo gives an idea of how many cultural sights there are in Oslo…and I haven’t even talked about “The Scream” yet!

Travel Flashback: Exciting Oslo! (2010)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Today’s flashback takes us to Oslo, Norway. In English, the name of this city is probably the least exciting of the northern European capitals.  After visiting Bergen and the mighty fjords, we anticipated seeing a few major sights and then moving on to somewhere in Sweden or southern Norway with a better travel reputation. Oslo’s legendarily high costs also weighed heavily on our minds. Surely, we wouldn’t spend the entire remaining week of our vacation there?

But a funny thing happened on the way to somewhere else: Oslo grew on us!

View from the top of the Holmenkollen ski jump in Oslo, Norway
View from the top of the Holmenkollen ski jump in Oslo, Norway

The high costs were partially offset by the saving grace of Scandinavian tourism: because business travel basically shuts down during the summer, Oslo’s better hotels all compete mightily for the modest number of tourists that find their way to the city. The result: 4-star hotels at (almost) bargain prices. The unforgettable (and included) smorgasbord breakfasts remain the same year-round, so we were able to skip lunch most days…as long as we treated ourselves to some hitherto unheralded Norwegian gelato in the early afternoon!

View of the Holmenkollen ski jump from the "take-off" point
View of the Holmenkollen ski jump from the “take-off” point

Norwegians are sports-crazy and it is only fitting that two of our favourite Oslo experiences were sports-related…and yes, very exciting!   The first was a journey to the legendary Holmenkollen ski jump facility (also known as Holmenkollbakken) in the northern part of the city.  The Norwegians excel at ski jumping and this facility is the Mecca of ski jumping in Norway.  The ski jumping events at the 1952  Winter Olympics were held here and it has continued to host prestigious meets ever since.

Looking down the still-under-construction Holmenkollen ski jump
Looking down the still-under-construction Holmenkollen ski jump

When we visited Holmenkollen, the structure was in the process of a complete rebuild.  Nonetheless, we could still go to the top and look down from the top of the ski jump.  I’ll cut to the chase:  if you think flying off a ski jump is crazy, don’t go to the top of a ski jump and look down.  It looks even crazier, with a steep, narrow path ending in absolute nothingness and seemingly certain death.   It is definitely scary, even for someone who has spent on awful lot of time on skis.

The facility also has a ski museum that traces the development of skiing from its earliest cross-country roots to modern day alpine skiing, ski jumping and freestyle skiing.  For a kitschy bonus, I decided to take a ride on the alpine skiing simulator set up there.  Along with a handful of strangers, I got to experience a World Cup ski race…complete with chattering ice and every other unnerving effect you can imagine.

The skiing simulator in action - I'm inside and in the process of being horrified
The skiing simulator in action – I’m inside and in the process of being terrified

I  once experienced a scary radar-gun-verified speed of 85 km/h on skis on a controlled slope in Switzerland and, after seeing a colleague take a bad spill at roughly that speed, it was something I resolved to never try again.  However, that uneasy feeling was nothing compared to this terrifying simulation at roughly twice that speed.   Ski racing is just as crazy as ski jumping!

The other sports experience in Oslo was seeing a professional soccer game at Ullevaal Stadion, home ground for Oslo’s legendary Vålerenga soccer team (wearing blue, in the photo at the top of this post) .   As with our visit to an international match in Stockholm two years later, we had a great time at the game itself and really felt like we had experienced a “real” aspect of life in Oslo.  There were few tourists here!

Vålerenga fans show their colours before the game
Vålerenga fans show their colours before the game

It was great to see a lot of goals, as  Vålerenga romped to an 8-1 victory over IK Start from Kristiansand.  Despite the one-sided result, fans of both teams were boisterous but well-behaved.  We’ll never forget the fans from Kristiansand singing on the subway out to the game!  We were also impressed with Vålerenga’s appreciation for their supporters.  As with Feyenoord in the Netherlands, jersey #12 is reserved for the  Vålerenga fans as the “12th player” and the players diligently saluted their fans when the game was over.

Vålerenga salutes their fans after an easy 8-1 victory
Vålerenga salutes their fans after an easy 8-1 victory

While these sporting expeditions were memorable, there is plenty more to see and do in Oslo.  Stay tuned for details!