(Urubamba, Peru)

June 30 was an exhausting day…but well worth it.

The alarm was set for 4:00 a.m. so that we could be at the airport in time for a 7:15 a.m. flight to Cusco.  Cusco is located in the Andes at an elevation of 3500 metres above sea level, so it will come as no surprise that the approach to the runway was very interesting.

Lima is essentially at sea level and was about 20’C when we left.  We disembarked to a temperature of 4’C in Cusco although we didn’t feel any altitude-related symptoms.  That would come later!

I have been skiing at elevations up to 3800m, so I thought I would be OK in Cusco.  However, when we began climbing at the Incan ruins above Pisac, the effects of the altitude kicked in loud and clear.  Each step was an effort – my legs just didn’t want to leave the ground.  There were some steep steps that I normally would be able to sprint up.  Here, though, I had to stop after every four steps.  I also felt vaguely dizzy and felt a headache coming on; most of the classic altitude symptoms were there.

The key difference is that I usually have several days to acclimatize to the extreme altitude while skiing.  One hour is simply not enough time to adapt to the much thinner oxygen.   Nonetheless, I explored the Pisac ruins to the extent I could and really enjoyed being up in the mountains.  The scale is much larger than I had expected, even though Pisac is one of the smaller sites that we’ll be visiting.

Lunch was a communal Andean feast.  I took pictures of nearly every dish and almost everything was spectacular.  The coastal cuisine in Peru is understandably seafood-oriented but the Andean cuisine seems more to my taste.  From quinoa to purple corn beverages, it was all very colourful and very tasty.   I’m looking forward to trying more of this cuisine during my time in the mountains.

After lunch, we journeyed to the Incan ruins above Ollantaytambo (shown at the top of this post).  This was even more impressive than the ruins  above Pisac.  The scale is astonishing, but I think the engineering and the Incan insight into the sun, the earth, etc. are even more surprising part.   When they carved faces into the mountains, they also positioned them so that they would be illuminated on June 21 of each year.   Even without the wheel, they managed to get huge rocks on top of mountains.  They also built their structures to withstand earthquakes, using techniques that are still being used today.

I also learned that calling them “Inca” is not entirely correct.  The word “inca” means “king”, but our guide said that it is probably more accurate to call them “Quechua” (after the language that all of the people spoke).  After all, there were only a handful of kings.

Some of the practices are hard to understand from a modern perspective.  For example, when a king died, his servants would have to die too so that they could accompany the king to the next world.

I noticed a slight improvement in my altitude situation at Ollantaytambo.  I still was badly winded after climbing the steep steps, but the other symptoms had disappeared.  I should be acclimatized well for Machu Picchu in a couple of days’ time.  Tomorrow, we are going to visit a couple of places near Urubamba and have another Andean feast!