Tag Archives: Poland

A Great Game in Bratislava (and a little bit about Krakow)

(Bratislava, Slovakia)

The massive hilltop Wawel Castle in Krakow is a common destination for tourists in Poland. It was originally built in the 14th century and was repeatedly expanded over the years as it hosted a long succession of Polish rulers.  Because of our extremely tight schedule, it was not possible to visit the entire complex or even all parts of the buildings that we did visit.  However, we did at least get a flavour of Polish history and the vast area covered by Poland and Lithuania in the past.

Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)
Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)

Time constraints also forced us to eat on the run…but, in this case, we happily stumbled upon a take-out restaurant that served up the kind of Polish specialties that I had been hoping to find.  The sausage looked tempting but I opted for bigos (a tasty cabbage-based hunter’s stew with all kinds of interesting ingredients) instead.

Bigos in Krakow, Poland
Bigos in Krakow, Poland

From Poland, we moved on to Bratislava, Slovakia.  I think the hockey game in Bratislava was probably my favourite of the tour, with the Budapest game (details in a future post) being an extremely close second.  Some of our players had played the Slovak team last year at a tournament in Germany but were soundly defeated and it was apparently quite discouraging.  This year’s game was only a friendly match but some of our players were very motivated to improve on the outcome from last year.

Even without that backdrop, however, this game was still something special.  We were playing at Bratislava’s impressive Zimný štadión Ondreja Nepelu, also known as the Slovnaft Arena (see photo at top of this posting).  It was completely rebuilt for the 2011 IIHF World Championships and accommodates more than 10,000 spectators.   It is state-of-the-art in every respect and is the home arena of HK Slovan Bratislava, who play in the KHL (the second best hockey league in the world).

Our hotel in Tychy, Poland
Our hotel in Tychy, Poland

We arrived at the player entrance and were astonished by the spacious and extensively equipped dressing rooms.  Our hosts also provided us with plenty of beverages and souvenirs.  On the Olympic-sized ice, the game was preceded by the Canadian and Slovakian national anthems.  It was really special to hear “O Canada” while wearing a Team Canada jersey – even though this technically wasn’t a national team, we did have players from B.C. to Newfoundland on our roster.  I now have some idea what it must feel like to appear for Canada at the Olympics or World Championships.   With music blaring between whistles and a high-tech LED scoreboard, we really felt like we were in “the big time”.

While it is hard to pinpoint the exact reason, I think I played my best game of the tour in Bratislava.  The wide-open ice, the “spectacle”, the emotion of this long-awaited rematch…everything seemed to feel right.  Time seemed to slow down just a little bit and I felt like I was in total control of my game.  Maybe, in some parallel universe, this was where I was meant to play hockey?

Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)
Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)

There were also some interesting Slovak touches to the game:  everybody who scored was immediately and ceremoniously rewarded with a shot of a blueberry beverage of unknown local origin.    As the game went on, the “rewards” were expanded to players who earned assists or just looked like they might need a “reward”.  Another great thing about the game is that I don’t recall any cheapshots or animosity between the teams.  Everybody did their best but it wasn’t at the expense of anybody else.

As for the result:  Bratislava looked formidable in the warm-up and two players in particular (#66 and #69) were clearly very strong.  We scored a couple of early goals but Bratislava roared back and the situation began to look dire as several of our players succumbed to (accidental) injuries.  It seemed like just a matter of time before Bratislava’s star players would “turn it up a notch” and ensure victory for the Slovak team.  We rose to the challenge, however, and eventually prevailed by an 8-5 margin.   More so than in any previous game, we seemed to really click as a team.  It also didn’t hurt that our goalkeeper continued his run of stellar games!

The bus that took us around Eastern Europe
The bus that took us around Eastern Europe

After the game, we didn’t feel like leaving the ice.  We wanted the moment to last just a little bit longer!  As the arena staff wasn’t too pushy about us leaving the ice, we took lots of team pictures to commemorate the game.  I hope to be able to share some of these in a future post.

While this was a great night, there is still much more to come.  Future posts will include a little bit about Bratislava itself…and the exciting end of the tour in Budapest, Hungary!

Auschwitz: Unimaginable Evil

(Tychy, Poland)

On September 9, we went to the Auschwitz concentration camps from World War II.  Auschwitz is the German name for the Polish town of Oświęcim; the town still exists a short distance from the camps.  We visited the two main sites:  Auschwitz I and the much larger Auschwitz II (Birkenau). There was also a smaller Auschwitz III and some satellite camps nearby.

This was a very difficult experience.  At first it looks almost pastoral and the barbed wire isn’t even that conspicuous.  But once the story starts rolling, you quickly get a very sick feeling in your stomach.  The feeling doesn’t let up either:  as bad as Auschwitz I was, Auschwitz II-Birkenau took the horror to an even higher level.

Watchtower and electric fence at Auschwitz I.
Watchtower and barbed-wire electric fence at Auschwitz I.

The Nazis cleared out all local residents in an area of 40 square kilometers around the camps.  This made it possible to carry on atrocities without local knowledge.  There was all kinds of misinformation:  the sign above the entrance to Auschwitz I says Arbeit macht frei, which can be translated as “work will set you free”.  This was only the beginning of the massive deception.

It is impossible to capture the overwhelming evil in a single blog posting and I am concerned that this brief narrative will not paint a complete picture.  However, I still think it is important to describe some of what I saw.

Execution wall at Auschwitz I.  About 5,000 people were executed here.
Execution wall at Auschwitz I. About 5,000 people were executed here.

80% of people who arrived at Auschwitz (primarily Jews, but also including other groups who were unacceptable to the Nazis) by train were immediately sent to “showers”…which turned out to gas chambers that would kill them within minutes of entering.  They had no idea what was coming:  people brought their most valuable possessions to the camp and expected to be getting a job the next day.  The remainder were put to hard labour without sufficient food and most died a horrible death through starvation, disease, medical experiments or execution.

It is estimated that 1.1 million people were killed at Auschwitz.  The actual number is impossible to confirm because so many were killed upon arrival.  During mid-1944, at Auschwitz alone, the Nazis were killing in excess of 5,000 people every single day.  The sites were designed for utmost efficiency:  the gas chambers were right beside the crematoria.

Our group enters the gas chambers/crematorium.  Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.
Our group enters a gas chamber/crematorium. Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.

We actually walked through the gas chambers and crematorium at Auschwitz I where thousands and thousands of people were murdered.   It is very difficult to put into words what it felt like to be in that place.  If you can imagine the most haunted building and the most sickening feeling you can remember, and then wonder what could possibly have motivated people to be so evil and commit such heinous acts of mass murder…that combination would begin to describe what we all felt.

Auschwitz was not the only concentration camp.  When you include the other Nazi camps, the numbers (it is estimated that 6 million Jews were murdered by the Nazis) are even more incomprehensible.  It was a continent-wide assembly line of death.

A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I
A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I

We walked by some “inventories”:   huge displays of property confiscated from the camp residents that had not yet been put to use by the Nazis by 1945.  The sheer volume was astonishing but the worst was the hair:  the Nazis sheared the residents and used all of the hair to make garments and other “knits”.  We saw a display case that was about 40 metres long, several metres high and several metres deep…still filled with human hair that had not yet been converted to another use before the camp was finally liberated.

The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)
The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)

We also saw the main “receiving centre” at Birkenau (see photo at the top of this posting).  Here, new arrivals by train would be assessed in a split second by a Nazi doctor.  If he pointed left (which happened almost all of the time, especially if you were a child, female, elderly, or disabled), you would be dead that day.  If he pointed right, you were deemed fit for labour…but you would almost certainly die within weeks or months.  Death could come from starvation, execution, gassing, disease, or even the rats who infested the lower bunks.

Miserable housing at Birkenau.  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.
Miserable housing at Birkenau:  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.

There is so much more that could be said.  So much humiliation and inhumanity…and that was for those who survived the initial culling.  In addition, the survivors would smell the furnaces from the crematoria that were burning each and every day.  I won’t discuss the medical experiments that were performed on the camp residents.  I think the only thing that saved me from being physically ill was the fact that we did not see the video that most people watch upon arrival at Auschwitz.  It contains footage taken by the Red Army when Auschwitz was liberated in early 1945.  I have seen snippets of this footage in the past and the condition of the surviving prisoners is extremely disturbing.

Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II - Birkenau)
Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II – Birkenau)

If you have the opportunity to visit a concentration camp like Auschwitz, you should give it serious consideration even though it is by no means “enjoyable”.  It will have a profound effect on you and it will be impossible to view the world in quite the same way afterwards.

Hockey in Poland (and a bit more of Prague)

(Tychy, Poland)

After our very challenging first 3 games in Prague, we were able to take it easy on Sunday. The only organized activity was a dinner cruise on the Vltava River.

A bunch of us decided to visit the Museum of Communism, for a look at what life was like from 1948 to 1989 in the Czech Republic.  The three largest exhibit rooms were entitled “Dream”, “Reality” and “Nightmare”; the situation moved quite rapidly from “dream” to “nightmare”.  There was even an interrogation room where confessions would be obtained under extreme duress.

The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic
The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic

It was sobering to see how quickly Czech life became unbearably oppressive during those years.  We saw a grocery store stocked with only a couple of (not very desirable) products, the bribery necessary to get anything done,  and the sheer number of collaborators and informants who enabled the totalitarian nightmare to continue.  We also saw a movie showing the police brutality that took place just outside the front door of our hotel.   All of this reminded us of how fortunate we are in Canada.

Another view of the old town square in Prague
Another view of the old town square in Prague

The river cruise was quite mellow.  There was no commentary, just a buffet and a slow journey up and down the river.  As I found during our canal cruise in Haarlem, it’s nice to see a city from a different perspective. Given the crowds in Prague, it’s also great to have a bit more personal space while admiring the city.

View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)
View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)

Monday morning saw us driving to Opole, Poland for a series of games.  We had just over 2 hours of ice time, so we alternated playing against teams from Tychy and Wroclaw.  Playing 4 straight games against teams that could rest between games turned out to be quite demanding, especially as the ice was not resurfaced during that time.  However, I’m pleased to report that Canada’s hockey honour was restored with 4 straight victories over our well-rested opponents.

Our first stop in Poland:  a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border
Our first stop in Poland: a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border

We received a very warm welcome in Opole; they seemed genuinely thrilled that we had made the journey.  Gifts were exchanged and there were many Polish beverages available before and after the game.  The Canadian spectators reported that the Polish fans were also gracious and friendly.

Our bus driver got lost on the way to our hotel in Tychy after the game, so a one-hour journey turned into a three-hour odyssey through the misty Polish night.  We finally arrived (after eating “dinner” at a 24-hour gas station) just before 1:00 a.m.  No harm was done, though, and I think everybody fell asleep quickly after arrival.  Fortunately, our hotel is right beside the arena where we play(ed) on Tuesday night!

Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 "Velvet Revolution") in Prague, Czech Republic
Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 “Velvet Revolution”) in Prague, Czech Republic

On Tuesday, we visited the famous city of Krakow as well as the infamous concentration camp at Auschwitz. I will be describing those visits in a separate posting.  We also played the Tychy team (in their home arena) Tuesday night and were once again victorious.  We really enjoyed the evening, as a couple of Polish and Canadian players switched teams and we had a fun night of pizza and refreshments after the game at our hotel.  Tomorrow, we once again move on!