Tag Archives: Quebec

Highway 31 (and Murray Street) Revisited

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

When I travel, I crave new adventures. However, sometimes it is fun to revisit previous experiences and even tie them together. That’s exactly what I did when I recently drove the length of Highway 31 from Morrisburg to Ottawa.

The St. Lawrence River shoreline in Morrisburg, Ontario

Morrisburg is a small Ontario town that remains very special to me. In December 2009, I was a torchbearer for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Torch Relay…and my assigned segment was in Morrisburg. It was such a unique and vivid experience: I’ll never forget the feeling of floating with the flame. You can read all about it by clicking here. However, when I retraced the route I ran on Ottawa Street 15 years ago, that supercharged feeling was gone. No snow, no festivities, no anticipation…and no cheering crowd! It is amazing how context can transform the routine into something truly extraordinary. I even had to go back to my old blog post about it and confirm that I was looking at the right street. But sure enough…it was indeed Ottawa Street where I did most of my Olympic run.

The main intersection in downtown Winchester, Ontario.

Heading north, I stopped in the similarly-sized town of Winchester. Although it is not that far from Kingston, I somehow had never made it to Winchester before. It has a strong agricultural history, and all the utility posts have a “cow” pattern on the bottom. I took a couple of pictures before returning to Highway 31. Before long, all the signs were referring to Bank Street, a major Ottawa thoroughfare, instead of Highway 31.

The Town Hall in Winchester, Ontario.

Bank Street was a mixed bag. The neighbourhood known as “The Glebe” was doing well…perhaps a little too well, as the new development at the south end seemed a little out of scale. But much sadder was the decay on Bank Street near Parliament Hill. So many vacant storefronts, and real human suffering. It was nothing like the vibrant street I remembered from 30-40 years ago.

Kerala (Red) Rice and Kodanadu Chicken at Kochin Kitchen (Ottawa, Ontario)

But on the plus side, I also had a chance to revisit Murray Street…which I visited just 3 months ago. In fact, I ate out twice on Murray Street: once at each of the restaurants that I wrote about this spring. The first evening, I went back to Kochin Kitchen for some Keralan food. I had the Kodanadu Chicken again, but this time I paired it with Kerala rice…which has a red tinge!

Dimly lit but brilliantly flavoured Gaeng Panang Curry at Khao Thai (Ottawa, Ontario)

The second night, I went to Khao Thai…which was full when I tried to go there in June. It was still fairly busy, but I was able to get a table. I had a spicy Gaeng Panang curry with some jasmine rice. It was excellent. It was a perfect blend of (most of) my favourite Thai elements: red curry, peanuts, coconut milk, and green and red peppers. And some peas! Yes, it was a little more expensive than the Thai restaurants in Kingston, but I’d have to say it was worth it.

Entering Gatineau, Quebec, after crossing the bridge from Ottawa

And finally, as has become my Ottawa tradition, I included a “walk through Quebec”. Using two of the bridges that connect Ottawa and Gatineau, I saw many of downtown Ottawa’s highlights (including the Chateau Laurier – see photo at the very top of this post) in a whirlwind tour. Even though I have advised against ultra-brief visits to places just to say I’ve been there, I must admit that I still do like the idea of crossing borders. That’s good: in about a month, I’ll be visiting another country. More details to come!

Ottawa’s Murray Street

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

I recently had to spend a couple of days in Ottawa for work. Once the work day was over, I went looking for an interesting dining option in the Byward Market area.

Khao Thai Restaurant on Murray Street, Ottawa

I had a craving for Thai food, so I set out for Khao Thai…a nice place on Murray Street that I have visited in the past. Alas, when I arrived, a crowd of people was outside the front door. They were waiting for tables to open up. Clearly, I would have a long wait before having a chance to eat.

Kochin Kitchen in Ottawa

I then recalled a humble-looking restaurant on the corner of Murray and Dalhousie. It was called Kochin Kitchen, and it specialized in food from the southern Indian state of Kerala. I’ve had Kerala cuisine before, and it had been spicy even by the standards of the subcontinent. I decided I was up for the challenge. And I had the nagging feeling that I had tried to eat at this restaurant before…but had to make a last-minute change.

Kodanadu Chicken, on top of a parotta

I took a quick look at the menu before going in, and was pleased to see very little overlap with typical Indian restaurant menus in Canada. And then I saw a dish featuring “roasted coconut paste”. That did it – I now had to give Kochin Kitchen a try.

Murray Street, Ottawa

I knew the karma here was good, because I heard somebody call my name shortly after I ordered. One of my work friends, from the neighbouring Quebec city of Gatineau, was in the very same Ottawa restaurant! He confirmed that I had made a wise choice: he and his friends came here almost weekly.

Nameplate on the (now) Alexandra Bridge between Ottawa, Ontario, and Gatineau, Quebec

I went with my gut – the Kodanadu Chicken, with the advertised roasted coconut paste. It was really flavourful: even though it wasn’t described as spicy, it still had quite a Kerala kick on top of the sweet coconut. And I opted for parotta instead of rice: this turned out to be an inspired choice. Described as a layered flatbread, parotta is kind of like a buttery cross between a crepe and flaky pastry. I’ve never had it before, but I thought it worked very well with the spicy coconut paste.

Ottawa’s Chateau Laurier Hotel, as seen from Gatineau, Quebec

This was a rather rich meal, so I decided to take a long walk afterward. I headed down Murray Street, and just kept going…to Quebec! As it turns out, Murray Street is the extension of the Alexandra Bridge, which connects Ottawa to Gatineau. So I visited the grounds of the Canadian Museum of History (formerly Canadian Museum of Civilization) in Gatineau, took a few photos, and eventually found my way back to my hotel as the sun set over Ottawa.

Canadian Museum of History, in Gatineau, Quebec

Once again – going with the flow yielded some nice surprises. I didn’t have any Thai food that evening, but I’m sure I will have some again soon.

Gatineau Getaway

(Wakefield, Quebec, Canada)

We decided to take a road trip to the Gatineau region of Québec last weekend. There were multiple reasons, with more reasons appearing as the trip progressed!

The Nepean Lawn Bowls clubhouse on Woodroffe Avenue in Ottawa, Ontario.

Our first stop was the Nepean Lawn Bowls Club in suburban Ottawa, where I could do some early-season practicing on their artificial surface. And I could also finally try out my new bowls for the first time, as they had been patiently waiting since arriving from Australia three months ago. (I borrowed some bowls when I played in Switzerland in February). My club in Kingston has a natural grass surface and it won’t be available for at least another week.

King’s Day Celebrations outside the Dutch Groceries store on Clyde Avenue in Ottawa, Ontario.

I was excited to play outdoors again, so I stayed for a long time and worked up quite an appetite. Accordingly, our next stop was the nearby Dutch Groceries deli/shop. And what a coincidence: it was King’s Day (Koningsdag) in the Netherlands, so the shop was selling fresh treats such as bitterballen and poffertjes on the sidewalk outside the shop! Of course, we had to have some. With lots of Dutch-Canadians wearing orange, and some special promotions inside the shop, it was a very festive occasion. Among other things, I picked up some Cantenaar and Parrano cheeses, two specialized kinds of sambal (sambal manis and surinaamse sambal), and a whole lot of dropjes.

The Meule & Caquelon restaurant on Boul. Gréber in Gatineau, Québec,

By dinnertime, we had crossed the Ottawa River into Québec and decided to try something that you can’t find in Kingston: a Swiss restaurant (although we have Amadeus, which is an excellent Austrian/Bavarian restaurant). Meule & Caquelon has an unassuming location in a Gatineau strip mall but it is a cozy place specializing in fondue and raclette. We had a modified raclette; we grilled our own food and then melted raclette cheese over it.

The Auberge de Mon Petit Chum B&B in Wakefield, Québec. We stayed here for a night.

That night, we stayed in the rustic Québec village of Wakefield (see the covered bridge at the very top of this post). Wakefield is in the Gatineau River valley about 35 km north of Ottawa and, unlike other places near the nation’s capital, it has seen relatively little development. With almost no lighting on the side streets, it almost seemed like the village was in a previous century. While we chose this village because it was fairly close to Ottawa, Wakefield has some other special significance for me.

View of the lower part of the very first ski lift I ever took: the beginner area at Vorlage (Wakefield, Québec), with the base lodge on the right

The Vorlage ski area was just a block away from our B&B. While Vorlage is quite small, with a vertical drop of just 140 metres (about 460 feet), it will always hold a special place in my heart. It was here, in early 1983, that I went downhill skiing for the very first time. My Grade 10 friends convinced me to go on a school-organized ski trip. They also convinced me to just follow them rather than take lessons. While it wasn’t elegant (I was skiing like a hockey player), the trial by fire gave me the skiing bug. Regular readers of this blog know how much skiing has meant to me and my travel plans ever since.

View of the Gatineau River, taken from the middle of Wakefield’s covered bridge.

Anyway, Wakefield seems to be very quiet in the spring. This is probably because its outdoor activities attract more visitors in the summer and winter months. (In addition to Vorlage, the slightly larger Edelweiss ski area is also in Wakefield.) There was absolutely nobody else on the village’s picturesque covered bridge when I used it to cross the Gatineau River. On the way back, a couple of local children rode their bikes across but otherwise…silence.

The Northfolk Cafe in Perth, Ontario. The gelato was very good.

I spent a few more hours practicing bowls in Nepean the next day, and then continued home to Kingston via the “scenic route”. To break up the drive a bit, we stopped in the historic town of Perth for a beverage and some gelato. The skies were very gray by this point, with some intermittent rain, so the gray stone buildings in the downtown area made everything feel very gray indeed. But a tart lemon gelato can help overcome that.

A very gray day in Perth, Ontario.

This was the first, but certainly not the last, road trip of 2024. Watch this space for all the details!

Return to Montreal – Part 2

(Montreal, Quebec, Canada)

[Somewhat delayed continuation of our April 30-May 2 trip to Montreal – click here for the previous post]

We weren’t looking for a vegan restaurant, but that just happened to be the most interesting option in Hochelaga as Saturday morning gave way to afternoon. Not just vegan burgers, but also vegan bacon!

Lunch at Antidote Bouffe Végane, on Rue Ontario in Hochelaga (Montreal)

Of course, what trip to Montreal would be complete without a visit to the record shops in the Plateau neighbourhood? I do most of my record shopping locally in Kingston, but it’s always interesting to pop into a Montreal shop and see what’s available. And it seemed like the right thing to do, because we were going to a concert that night!

This historic church is on rue Ste-Catherine in the heart of downtown Montreal..it is also a concert venue called Le Balcon!

For our first concert since the pandemic, we attended a “Soul/Motown/Disco” event at Le Balcon. This is a unique concert venue in downtown Montreal…in a church! The female vocalist, Kim Richardson, was outstanding. I must admit that it felt a little strange being in an enclosed space for a concert again, but the Province of Quebec has been quite cautious about re-opening and most people seemed to be on their best behaviour. And the show must have been pretty good – I’ve been listening to a lot of Earth, Wind & Fire since then! The photo at the top of this blog post was taken outside the venue on rue Ste-Catherine, right after the concert ended.

Some of Montreal’s subway stations haven’t been renovated since the 1970s…

On Sunday morning, we continued one of our favourite Montreal pastimes: hopping on the bus or subway and exploring a more-or-less random neighbourhood. Unlike Toronto, Montreal still has a special transit pass that is valid from Friday evening (when we arrived) until early Monday morning. Because every trip after about the 4th is free, you don’t need to worry about making mistakes. Another train or bus will come along in a few minutes!

La Luncheonette (Saint-Henri)

We eventually found ourselves in the “transitioning” neighbourhood of Saint-Henri. We had a peaceful al fresco lunch at the appropriately-named La Luncheonette. I wasn’t necessarily trying to go meat-free this weekend, but the vegetarian chili with corn muffins looked delicious (and indeed it was). I don’t remember what exactly was in my smoothie, but it hit the spot too.

Vegetarian Chili with corn muffins at La Luncheonette

We had “timed-entry” tickets to a special museum later that afternoon, so we had a little bit of free time available. We decided to visit the Marché Atwater, which had a ton of fresh produce (see photo below) but also had a lot of highly specialized shops for cheese, vinegars, olives, etc. We couldn’t really take much with us, but once again it was nice to be in a “bustling” environment after a couple of largely bustle-free years.

Our last stop of the day was at the Musée des Ondes Emile Berliner in Saint-Henri. OK, the name may not mean much to you. But Emile Berliner built a massive gramophone factory here that was later absorbed into the RCA Victor organization. And on this very site, there is now a specialized museum dedicated to gramophones, phonographs, and other entertainment and communication technologies of the 20th century.

Of course, for a vinyl geek like me, this is really fascinating stuff. If you think vinyl turntables are bulky and fussy, look at these beasts! I enjoyed listening to some original shellac records – you really feel like you are listening to ghosts of the past.

But some of the technology goes further back than those brittle shellac discs. How about cylinders? Check out the Edison cylinder player below. A music cylinder is kind of like a flat vinyl record wrapped around a tube, and the stylus (needle) slowly makes its way around and across the cylinder. This technology goes back to 1896!

There were also some displays about radio and television, so I can recommend this to my former colleagues at CFRC-FM. It’s a very small, out-of-the-way place (there were only two other visitors while we were there), but it’s really cool if you have interests in both history and recorded music.

You may be wondering why it took more than 4 months to post this blog entry. Well, there have been some distractions this summer. And my next blog post will explain (almost) everything!

Return to Montreal

(Montreal, Quebec, Canada)

On April 30, we took our first real “vacation” together in more than 2 years. Yes, we had taken longer trips in 2021 for sports competitions, but this was travel purely for the sake of travel. And we even left the province of Ontario!

Restaurant Manana on rue St. Denis in Montreal

Masks were still required on the train, as they were in most indoor settings. We also had to provide proof of vaccination before boarding. But, even with our masks on, we found ourselves appreciating the change of scenery more than we expected. After so long in isolation, everything different seemed to have an additional “wow” factor. I don’t think I’ve ever been so excited to take the Metro in Montreal!

My main course at Restaurant Manana – pollo garnachero

I found a nifty little Mexican restaurant near our hostelry, and we were blown away by the colours even before we sat down. And the service at Restaurant Manana was just as vibrant as the surroundings. I also really appreciated the range of unusual hot sauces I could try with my meal.

Dessert at Restaurant Manana (already in progress)

Once again, we bought a weekend transit pass so that we could zoom around the city without any worries. The next morning, our first stop was the Botanical Gardens in the east end of Montreal. We haven’t spent any significant time in the east end before, but looked forward to some urban green space and what we presumed would be interesting non-touristic neighbourhoods.

We met this (wild) owl at the Montreal Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens were huge. Maybe it wasn’t quite the same as New York City’s Central Park, but it was really interesting to see all of the different botanical regions in one very walkable place. Our favourite was probably the Alpine zone. At the edge was a very impressive (and very chilled-out) owl, who kindly let me and many other amateur photographers snap his picture.

More from the Montreal Botanical Gardens

My wife has pledged to return to the gardens at different times of the year, in order to fully appreciate all it has to offer. It is conveniently located right beside Montreal’s infamous Olympic Stadium (see photo at the very top of this post), which is legendary in Canada for its phenomenal cost overruns. It wasn’t paid off until 30 years after the Olympics ended, as it was over budget by nearly 2000%! Yes, 2000%!

Skateboarding beside Montreal’s Olympic Stadium

I attended my first ever professional baseball game here about 40 years ago, when Montreal still had a major league team (the Expos). I will never forget watching the game in that cavernous concrete beast of a building! Stories about pieces of the concrete roof falling onto the field were not completely fictitious. While the stadium is finally paid off now, most of the action these days is in the skateboard park beside the stadium.

“Boutique Hellvis”: one of many interesting things in Montreal’s Hochelaga district

From the Olympic Stadium, it was only a short walk to the Marché Maisonneuve and then the Hochelaga neighbourhood. Hochelaga definitely wasn’t touristy, and it was a little scruffy in places, but it had a lot of unique attractions for its residents. “Boutique Hellvis” certainly wasn’t the only one. Somehow, Montreal seems to have avoided the corporate creep that has anonymized so many North American cities. So many businesses were independently owned, and they really emphasized their local products. We ended up having lunch in a Hochelaga vegan restaurant…stay tuned for the details on that and our interesting evening out!

More on Montreal…and preparing for a bigger trip

(Montreal, Quebec, and Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a bit of a hiatus, I’m finally returning to the Montreal trip that I first blogged about a few weeks ago

Another view from Mont-Royal…this time, looking east

On Sunday, we visited the Museum of Fine Art. There was a special travelling exhibition about Egypt (based on mummies) for which our hotel gave us free passes. I had some initial reservations about the propriety of exhibiting the deceased, but I thought it was done in a respectful manner. They don’t break open the “cases” anymore!

Montreal’s Museum of Fine Art

Despite being a city of three million people, downtown Montreal still retains a human scale. As you can see from the following photo of Crescent Street, not all of the downtown core has been replaced by skyscrapers. And imagine our surprise when we saw Leonard Cohen looming over us! 

Crescent Street in downtown Montreal

Since then, I have had some challenges with my impending ski trip. My travel plans were affected by the rail blockade between Kingston and Toronto, and then a situation arose with the seating on my overnight transatlantic flight. When these things happen, I try to remember that travelling is a privilege. I eventually resolved each of these situations, and I fully expect to be posting about my trip soon.

Montreal is very clearly the home of Leonard Cohen

Another challenge arose when I double-checked the baggage size limitations on the train. For reasons unknown (especially since they run a shuttle between Dorval station and Dorval airport, for example), the standard baggage allowance on our passenger rail service is actually slightly smaller than the standard airline baggage allowance. Why would they do that, if they want people to take the train as part of a longer journey?

A savory “Mexican” crepe, with a blackberry smoothie

In any case, it forced me to reduce my baggage (and plan for a laundry day while travelling). Again, things usually work out in the end, but it involved some very complicated logistics to ensure I could travel with the absolute minimum amount of clothes. I already know exactly which items I will be washing on Saturday afternoon. However, I will be in trouble if the laundromat is closed!  

The Chateau Versailles (our Montreal hotel) at night

Anyway, all of this should be moot when I’m finally back in the mountains again. Even the most miserable start to a vacation, such as when the airline lost some of my luggage and my first night’s hotel was suddenly full, is quickly forgotten.  I’m looking forward to my posting my next blog entry from the Alps!

A Warm Winter Weekend in Montreal

(Montreal, Quebec, Canada)

It’s not often that you hear about a warm winter weekend in Montreal. But that’s exactly what we had on our recent visit!

The first part of our visit focused mainly on food and shopping. We once again purchased a weekend transit pass, allowing us to travel around the city and hop on or off whenever we felt inspired. We started by returning to Verdun, for a clothing shop we discovered on our previous trip to Montreal. Before shopping, however, we had to make sure we were properly nourished.

I took this picture just because I think “Lavo-Rama” is a great name for a laundromat (Notre-Dame-de-Grâce)

We chose a Peruvian place just down the street from the clothing shop. My hopes were high, as I saw both lomo saltado and chicha morada on the menu.  I have a nostalgic attachment to these items, as I prepared lomo saltado during a cooking course I took in Cusco, Peru. And I had many delicious glasses of chicha morada throughout my Peruvian trip in 2014.

Simply “Jimi”. Perfect name for a music shop. (Notre-Dame-de-Grâce)

While it was nice to revisit Peru on a winter’s day in Canada, it wasn’t quite the same as what I remembered from 6 years before. I guess this isn’t surprising – almost everything tastes better in the place it comes from.  Eating in Peru is great!

The next day, we ventured to the Notre-Dame-de-Grâce neighbourhood. We had no particular destination in mind:  we had just heard that there were a lot of bookstores and independent businesses that might be interesting to look at. This was true, but what really struck us was the number of bakeries and pastry shops…and also the number of pet-oriented businesses! The pets of Notre-Dame-de-Grâce certainly ought to be well-amused and well-groomed.

Woof & Groom dog-grooming emporium in Notre-Dame-de-Grâce

From there,  it was off to the neighbourhood of Côte-des-Neiges. This time, the attraction was an allegedly high number of ethnic restaurants. We decided to simply roam and stop in for lunch wherever the “vibe” was right. Nothing truly called to us until we saw a basement restaurant called La Republika. There was no menu posted outside: we just knew that the food was from the Philippines. We took the plunge, as there seemed to be many local residents dining despite the low outside profile.

Tosilog lunch at La Republika (Côte-des-Neiges)

It turned out to be the culinary highlight of our trip.  My wife had a very enjoyable pork dish called tosilog, while I had grilled shrimps. I was somewhat surprised to see that the shrimps had not been shelled (or otherwise processed) before being grilled. The waiter brought me some gloves and I spent quite a bit of time trying to shell the slippery-sauced shrimp. All turned out well in the end, even if I made a complete mess and the grilling sauce ended up everywhere.  There was no question that the dish was freshly made!

Grilled shrimp lunch at La Republika (Côte-des-Neiges)

We walked off our lunch feast on Mont-Royal, the small “mountain” that provides excellent views of downtown Montreal (see photo at the top of this post).   After an extended hike, we caught another bus to the Plateau neighbourhood…home of my favourite record store (“Aux 33 Tours”).  It never fails to surprise me with unexpected vinyl treasures. 

Hiking high above the city on Mont-Royal

Cookies and hot chocolate followed in the Plateau, and eventually a late dinner at Qing Hua near our hotel at the edge of Westmount. Qing Hua is a Montreal institution specializing in “Chinese dumplings”…name a filling, and it’s probably available in at least one of their large steamed dumplings. I tried beef curry, as well as vermicelli-mushroom-cabbage.

Stay tuned – there’s more on Montreal!

 

 

Our Rainy Weekend in Montreal

(Montreal, Quebec, Canada)

Everything was in place for our trip to Montreal. The only thing we couldn’t control was the weather…and, in this case, it definitely did not want to be controlled.

Montreal’s City Hall (with the flags of Canada, Quebec and Montreal)

I travel to Montreal from time to time, but I have done only one previous blog entry on the largest city in the province of Quebec. That trip didn’t go completely according to plan either, as I forgot my camera and took only a few iffy photos using an iPod. I remembered the camera this time; fortunately, I also remembered to bring an umbrella!

Downtown Montreal, on Boulevard René-Lévesque

However, the focus of this trip wasn’t on the usual touristic sights in Montreal.  Yes, we wandered through Old Montreal once the weather cleared a bit, but we spent most of our time in various Montreal neighbourhoods that were a little more out of the way.

My main course at Fenêtre Sur Kaboul, in Montreal’s “Plateau” neighbourhood

Dinner on Friday was in an Afghan restaurant in the “Plateau-Mont-Royal” neighbourhood.  My favourite Montreal record store was nearby, and we found some interesting grocery stores where we could stock up for Saturday’s breakfast. This particular area has a lot of students and a huge number of dining options.

A rainy day in downtown Verdun, Quebec

Saturday saw us visit Verdun for the very first time.  We picked it almost at random.  It’s only a few subway stops from downtown Montreal, but when we left the subway it was as if we had completely left the big city.  It was kind of fun to feel like we were the only people who didn’t live there. As a bonus, we also had success at a clothing store that catered to tall people 

Marché Jean-Talon, in Montreal’s Little Italy neighbourhood

We also visited the Marché Jean-Talon in Little Italy, after having lunch at the Breizh Café on boulevard Saint-Laurent. This was our first time at a crêperie since enjoying them nearly every day during last summer’s trip to Normandy and Brittany (“Breizh” is the Breton word for “Brittany”).  We were very happy with our galettes and the cider from a local cidrerie was a perfect accompaniment. We felt a little nostalgic, and vowed that we would return to northern France again someday.

Tibetan Dumplings

The dodgy weather continued on Saturday night, so we stayed fairly close to our hotel and ate at a Tibetan restaurant near the bottom part of boulevard Saint-Laurent.  It was OK, and certainly inexpensive, but not a highlight. My Tibetan meal in Luxembourg, for example, was far superior.

My lunch at Liv Salades, in Montreal’s Mile End neighbourhood

On Sunday, we had lunch in the “Mile End” neighbourhood. I think we had probably eaten too much rich food on the first two days, as we both had strong cravings for salad!  As you can see from the salad photo above, they were  huge and appealing…both visually and tastewise.  “Mile End” is home to a number of important food sites (of course), such as St-Viateur Bagels and the Dieu du Ciel microbrewery.

Front of the horse and carriage line, in Old Montreal

So yes, there was a bit of a food emphasis on this trip.  Our trips to Montreal usually work out this way, and it seems like Montrealers truly appreciate food.  But we also tried something else on this trip for the first time:  buying a weekend transit pass for the Metro and buses.

Narrow streets of Old Montreal

That was probably the best thing we could have done.  In addition to saving a LOT of money (the cost per ride ended up being less than $1.00), we found ourselves in some truly unique neighbourhoods that we would never have walked to from our downtown hotel.  It also made the rainy weather easier to handle: we could quickly get back to the hotel and dry off, unload our purchases (mostly food, naturally), and/or get more appropriate clothes.  The pass was valid from late Friday afternoon until early Monday morning, and we will definitely consider it again for a future weekend trip.

Pembroke’s Hidden Treasures

(Pembroke, Ontario, Canada)

From the Château Montebello, it would have been a fairly easy drive back home to Kingston.  However, we were looking forward to seeing some old friends near Pembroke before returning home…so we took a long drive on the north side of the Ottawa River.   After passing through Thurso (birthplace of Guy Lafleur!), our progress became quite slow.  We didn’t want to go on the Autoroute, but construction and congestion were the order of the day.  Finally, some distance west of Ottawa, the road opened up.

Downtown Shawville, Quebec

This seemed like a somewhat forgotten corner of Québec.  There were few towns and I don’t recall seeing a stop sign or traffic light until we reached Shawville.  Although Shawville was clearly the largest town around, even it was very quiet.   After stocking up on some Québec-only provisions, we crossed the mighty Ottawa River back to Ontario.

Wildlife in downtown Pembroke

Our first impressions of Pembroke were lacklustre.  The skies were grey and the main street was under considerable construction:  perhaps because of this, there were also some vacant storefronts.  Just over a block away from the main street, we saw a fox relaxing on a pile of gravel!  We weren’t expecting this in a city of 16,000 people, especially at the beginning of rush hour.

The Nook Creperie in Pembroke, Ontario

However, our concern soon dissipated.  We walked by the waterfront campus of Algonquin College (see photo at the top of this post) and saw signs of life.  Then, returning to the main street, we saw a lot of locals entering a restaurant called “The Nook Crêperie”.  We were assured by a couple of patrons that this would be a great place for dinner.

One of the crepes at The Nook

They were absolutely correct.  Our crêpes were appealing inside and outside; the soup and dessert were both also excellent.  We never would have found this place if we had followed our initial instincts to avoid the downtown construction zone.   We then found our B&B:  just a few blocks from downtown, it was a charming Victorian red brick home in an equally charming neighbourhood.

Our B&B in Pembroke

We met our friends the next morning…and made only a small dent in the huge amount of spruce beer (biére d’épinette) that we had each stockpiled in anticipation of this day.   The strange obsession with spruce beer is a long story.  It has its roots in a long-ago Ottawa River canoe trip from my friend’s house to a general store in nearby Fort-Coulonge, Québec.  I don’t think either one of us particularly likes it, but the tradition has taken on a life of its own.  If you ever want a soft drink that is ridiculously high in calories, cloyingly sweet, and redolent of Pine-Sol, then spruce beer is the beverage for you.

Biére d’épinette: available in name brands AND store brands!

And that seems like a fitting way to end our summer vacation.  We saw a lot of Québec, enjoyed a lot of sports, and ate very well…or at least had fun with our food.  How can you not have fun with pizzaghetti?

I’ll be back in a couple of weeks with a special report on a very special event!

Sports Camp 2: Le Château Montebello

(Montebello, Quebec, Canada)

The Château Montebello is a famous hotel located on the Quebec side of the Ottawa River.   Like the Manoir Richelieu, it is a self-contained resort with a rich history.   It has been described as the largest log cabin in the world, as it is built from 10,000 logs.  Being so big, of course, also makes it difficult to photograph.  As a result, I don’t really have a satisfactory photo of the entire complex.   You’ll have to take my word for it:  it’s big.

The drive-thru check-in at the Château Montebello

Although I had certainly heard of the Château Montebello, I had never stayed there.  In fact, I had never seen it, as it is set back quite some distance from the road and it is impossible to see unless you drive all the way in.  After dropping off our bags at the drive-thru check-in, I entered the famous hotel for the first time.

The huge fireplace in the main lobby of the Château Montebello

It is quite something:  the hexagonal core of the hotel is huge and is anchored by an equally huge fireplace.  The rooms are located in 4 wings that radiate out from the hexagon.  There is wood everywhere; it must be very cozy in the wintertime.   The logs aren’t just on the outside:  they also make up the interior walls of the rooms.

The hub of the sports camp at Château Montebello

It had only been about a week since we visited the Manoir du Lac Delage and enjoyed an immersion into summer sports.  It soon became clear that Château Montebello was going to be the site of Sports Camp Part 2!  With the main sports equipment pavilion just south of our wing, it was going to be very easy to indulge in multiple summer sports.  And we did!

Part of the marina at the Château Montebello

The sports this time around included mini-golf, basketball, badminton, horseshoes, pétanque (again!)…and our brave journey onto the raging Ottawa River.  Our canoe at Lac-Delage had felt a little tippy, despite the extremely calm waters, so we were looking for something a little sturdier on a river that had an actual current.  The obvious choice seemed to be the pedalboat:  this is a two-seated craft where your sole means of propulsion (other than the current) was pedal power.  How hard could it be?

Our wing at the Château Montebello

As my camera got soaked when we got into the canoe at Lac Delage, I decided not to take it with me when we went out in the pedalboat.  Although I don’t have any pictures of our pedalboat journey, I will never forget how wiped out we felt after about 45 minutes out on the river.  Don’t be fooled:  pedalboating is probably the most exhausting way to travel on the water.

French Toast at the Château Montebello

After more than a week of holidays and eating out, we weren’t really ready to eat a lot of rich food at the hotel.  Taking advantage of the refrigerator in the room, we self-catered almost all of our meals.  However, as we decided that we should experience at least one meal here, we had breakfast in the hotel on our day of departure.  As you can see, the tablecloths were very white and the dining room is opulent.   We sat behind the buffet serving area in a room that overlooked the hotel grounds.

Breakfast buffet at the main dining room in the Château Montebello

After two nights at the Château Montebello, it was almost time to return home.  There was just one more stop to make…stay tuned for our visit to an entirely different community on the shores of the mighty Ottawa River!