Tag Archives: St. Stephan

Skiing by the Numbers

(Lenk, Switzerland)

As we prepared to leave Lenk for the bright lights of Zürich, I decided to take a look at something not typically associated with a skiing vacation:  statistics.

Catching some air at Luegli (above Adelboden)

A website called skiline.cc lets you connect your digital lift passes to an on-line account.  By entering the unique code on your ski pass, all of your skiing data can be collected in one place.   Each of the resorts I visited this year participated in this program.   The result:  I now know exactly how many lifts I took each day, how many kilometres I skied, and how many vertical metres I skied!

Typical chalet above Geils

I’m glad that I didn’t fully explore this website while I was still skiing.  I think I might have felt some subtle pressure, especially on the last day, to “set records” before it was time to return to Canada.  As it turns out, the data pretty much supports my guesses about the relative intensity of each day.

Skiing down from Lavey to Hahnenmoos

In total, my 9 on-slope days in Switzerland had me taking 201 lifts, skiing 455 kilometres, and accumulating 72,481 vertical metres (237,798 vertical feet).   No wonder I was always so hungry:  I was averaging more than 50 km per day!  Some statistics were useless:  I was the only Canadian registered on skiline.cc at Lenk this year.  I apparently also won the “gold medals” for most vertical metres in one day by a Canadian at both Wengen and Gstaad.   But my overall totals for those resorts were not best-in-class for Canadian skiers.

Unusual climbing apparatus at Sillerenbühl

It was interesting to see that I skied a formidable 71 km on our deep powder day at Betelberg.  We arrived early, caught the very last lift up, and didn’t have a particularly long lunch.  However, despite this being the “farthest” I skied in any one day, it was not the biggest vertical day.  I only accumulated 8,088 vertical metres that day, which I can attribute primarily to the relatively easy slopes at Betelberg.

Strange to see the Japanese flag on the slopes above Adelboden…

In terms of vertical, our biggest day was at Kleine-Scheidegg/Männlichen/Wengen, when I managed to accumulate a healthy vertical drop of 10,240 metres (almost 34,000 feet) over the day, despite only skiing a distance of 54 km.  This also makes sense:  we spent a lot of time on steeper slopes such as the legendary “Oh God!” and “Black Rock”.

The Chüebodmi restaurant, specializing in Ramen!

One nice surprise on our last day at Lenk-Adelboden, as you can see from the photos, was discovering the Chüebodmi restaurant on a little-travelled piste near Sillerenbühl.  We wondered why there was a Japanese flag flying above it, but upon investigating we realized that they specialized in ramen!  It was *very* rustic (no WC, just an outhouse!), but ramen turned out to be the perfect lunch for an active day on the slopes.

Speaking of surprises, we also had a couple of them in Zürich…stay tuned for the details!

Skiing in Gstaad…almost!

(Lenk, Switzerland)

After 5 days of skiing in Lenk, it was time for a change of scenery.  Fortunately, the village of St. Stephan was only a few kilometers down the road…and gave us access to the Gstaad ski region.  Gstaad is a well-known high-end resort, although we didn’t actually make it to Gstaad itself.  Our day was limited to the easternmost areas of St. Stephan, Zweisimmen, and Saanenmöser.

Buying our lift tickets after hiking up from the Stöckli train station

Even though it is quite close to Lenk, it was a bit of an adventure to ski in the Gstaad region.  We first took a train from Lenk to Stöckli, a tiny hamlet on the outskirts of St. Stephan (which itself has barely 1,000 people).  The  Stöckli station is a Halt auf Verlangen: the train won’t stop there unless a specific request is made.  From the Stöckli station, we had to hike over a bridge and down a riverside country lane to reach the base of the chairlift.   This was not particularly easy in ski boots!

On our new “secret” piste at Parwengesattel

Even the chairlift was somewhat surreal, as there was essentially no snow (the base elevation here is only 1000m above sea level) and we ascended on an ancient lift over grassy meadows…while still strapped firmly into our skis.  Fortunately, the endpoint of that first lift at Lengebrand was at 1383m elevation and we could ski to the next lift over actual snow.

We had lunch at this restaurant (Hornberg)

The skiing around Parwengesattel was outstanding that morning.  We discovered a newly created piste around the back side of the mountain (see photo at the very top of this post) that eventually brought us back to Lengebrand.  The scenery was beautiful, the snow was great, and we once again made first tracks in a few places.

The snow gradually disappeared as we skied toward Zweisimmen!

After many runs here we decided to move towards Zweisimmen and Saanenmöser, in hopes of finding a quaint spot for lunch.  Alas, our progress was significantly slowed:  the temperatures were warming quickly and the snow was getting sticky.  So sticky, in fact, that we suddenly felt like beginners!  After a week of confidently schussing through whatever came our way, we would now frequently hit sticky spots and pitch violently forward as our skis suddenly stopped.

Believe it or not, we could ski to this apres-ski location in the village of Zweisimmen

This continued for most of the afternoon, even after an extended lunch at Hornberg (I recalled eating here about 10 years ago with my uncle).  We needed speed to get anywhere on the sticky snow, but increased speed also increased the risk of a violent face-plant.  Finally, at the very end of the day, the snow became slushy:  while not ideal for skiing, at least it was somewhat predictable.

Part of my ski posse, relaxing after a day on the slopes

While there was no talk of a Traumpiste that afternoon, we still enjoyed exploring some new terrain…and some terrain that I remembered from past skiing experiences with my mother and uncle.  After skiing for 9 of the past 10 days, it was finally time to end the alpine part of my Swiss holiday.

Stay tuned for the ski wrap-up and our experiences in Switzerland’s largest city!