(Buenos Aires, Argentina)

We were a little hesitant about signing up for the dinner/tango performance on our first night in Buenos Aires. This city is, of course, the home of the tango. I’ve always enjoyed listening to tango music and have also enjoyed some “tango fusion” such as this (curiously non-Argentinian) recording from the Gotan Project.

So, why the hesitation? Well, we saw a touring tango orchestra performance in Kingston a few years ago and were slightly underwhelmed. We felt somewhat distant from the music and everything about the performance was just “OK”. Essentially professional, but also rather uninspired. We didn’t really want to spend a whole evening in Buenos Aires being uninspired.

Nonetheless, as this was (officially) our last night out with the group, we decided to go anyway. The show was being put on in the San Telmo district: it’s very old and filled with rustic cobblestoned streets that evoke Spain, Italy and France all at once (the photo at the top of this post was taken right outside the venue).  It was not too close to our hotel but being with a group made it easier and safer.

Initial signs were promising:  we were among the first arrivals and scored seats right in front of the stage.   The menu was diverse and the food was better than we had anticipated for one of these packages.   But by the time the house lights went down, we both retained a healthy sense of skepticism.  We were also not permitted to take photos during the performance.

One of the great things about low expectations is seeing them obliterated.  While the dancers were very professional and didn’t miss a beat, so to speak, the real surprise was the exceptional quality of the musicians.  These were not merely competent players “phoning it in” for another paycheque…Estos músicos eran excelentes!  Tango was clearly a passion for them too!

It was only a four piece band (piano, standup bass, bandoneon and violin) but they sounded as if there were at least double that number.  I had never heard such a percussive effect from the strings of a bass before, nor had I seen such leadership from the piano.   It’s difficult to write about music, but take my word on this:  this blew away the homogenized tango orchestra we saw in Canada, even though that group was also from Buenos Aires.

One of the signs of a great concert is that it is over far too soon.  With great company, better-than-expected food and a show that went far beyond expectations, we returned to our hotel with tango rhythms and bandoneon flourishes still resonating in our ears.   Buenos Aires had an effervescent sheen that night.

We spent several more days in Buenos Aires and we were transported back to San Telmo every time we heard tango music.  Stay tuned for all the details!