Tag Archives: U.S.A.

Redemption at the Grand Canyon

(Tusayan, Arizona, and Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

As depressing as Friday night had been, something very special happened in the wee hours of Saturday morning: the now-24-hour-old power cut suddenly ended. I was happily jolted awake by the clank of the radiator, as it began an extended mission to restore warmth to my frigid room.

First glimpse of the Grand Canyon on Saturday morning

Unbelievably, the power and heat remained in force for the rest of the day. Our group now had some decisions to make. Although we were scheduled to visit the Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, would we be prepared to forego that and get a real glimpse of the Grand Canyon? We unanimously voted in favour of the canyon. There was a chance for redemption!

Looking east from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon

The canyon did not disappoint. Although we did not have much time, we still saw what we came here to see: a vast snow-covered canyon stretching out for miles, and gleaming in the long-overdue sunlight. I walked quickly to the east, to get some different views of the South Rim before our bus had to leave. Our walk into the canyon itself had to be cancelled, but at least we were getting some idea of what it was all about.

View of the main observation area

We returned quickly to our bus, ready to continue on to the legendary Route 66. But fate was not done with us yet. A much larger bus had skidded off the narrow access road to the bus parking lot. It couldn’t gain enough traction to get back on the road. As a result, we were now stuck too, as there was no other (plowed) way out.

Generic Grand Canyon photo, with snow!

After almost an hour, the large bus had still not made any progress. We made the decision to drive across the unplowed parking lot to the also-unplowed back exit, and just hope that the deep snow didn’t strand us as well.

Snowy hike along the South Rim

Finally, we caught a break. We didn’t get stuck, and we could finally continue with our journey. For the first time in days, it felt like everybody would make their flights back home and/or be able to enjoy a final night in Las Vegas.

A stuck bus blocks the only cleared way out of the parking lot

Not so fast. Of course, we encountered more challenges on the way back to Las Vegas. The roads were still very snowy, and we had to be very careful on the highway. Then, Interstate 40 was closed because of an accident, so we had to drive far longer on the not-very-direct Route 66 than we had been anticipating.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

Our stop in Seligman, the most photogenic local remnant of Route 66, lasted barely a minute. Even so, we still managed to get an idea of how life used to be before the arrival of the Interstates. Family-run motels, soda fountains, and gas stations looked like they hadn’t changed for 70 years.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

It was dark by the time we finally arrived in Las Vegas. Although it is not among my favourite cities, I was still very happy to get there. Our group had one final meal together, and absolutely nothing strange happened. It was a perfect way to end what had been a rather challenging day and-a-half. But we had survived, and we had some great stories to tell!

Bryce Canyon – Dr. Seuss comes to life!

(Bryce Canyon, Utah, U.S.A.)

From Zion National Park, it’s not that long a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park. Just when you think you’ve left the bizarre geology behind, Bryce Canyon abounds with it.

First glimpse of the “Queen’s Garden” trail at Bryce Canyon

I didn’t really know what exactly to expect at Bryce Canyon. Well, the “Canyon” title was a bit of a hint, but I had no idea how it would differ from what we had seen at Zion. Sometimes, not knowing too much about where you are going is a blessing: it can make the “Wow” factor even more intense.

Off-season crowds in Bryce Canyon!

It was only a few steps from our parking lot to the canyon rim at Sunrise Point. A huge dropoff, of course, but the colours seemed just a bit more intense than I had seen before.  And the hoodoos were something else: random shapes reaching up to the sky…just like in a Dr. Seuss book. 

Near the bottom of the canyon

And it wasn’t just the shapes that were compelling. Recent snowfall had left a brilliant white frosting on it all. As you descended into the canyon, the contrasting colour from the vibrant evergreens created one “Wow” moment after another. In my continuing camera battery saga, I saw the battery warning light (for my new batteries) after less than an hour on the trail.  

Natural stone arch over the hiking trail

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, it was time to ascend the canyon to Sunset Point. The snow and ice made the already steep climb an even greater challenge. Of course, the greatest challenges usually yield the greatest rewards. Picture Lombard Street in San Francisco, the famous street that ratchets up a very steep hill. Stack a few of those on top of each other, and then add stupendously tall red pillars on either side, sparkling snowy trim, and a brilliant blue sky…it was one Kodak moment after another.

Near the top of “Lombard Street”, just below Sunset Point

I’ve had many memorable Alpine walks, but this one has to rank right up there with the best.  Once again, going in the off-season was a plus rather than a minus: the snow made it visually even more stunning, but the cool temperatures also meant the hike was manageable. And the crowds were nowhere near what they would have been in the summer. I’ll take the high winds and the occasional icy patch any day.

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point

I’ve just picked a sample of the many pictures I took that day. Even with the limitations of my camera, there were many great ones that didn’t make it to this post. If you like the pictures, stay tuned: I’m sure more will pop up in the future!

Beginning the climb up to Sunset Point

Coming up: we veer south into the state of Arizona.

Zion National Park – Day 2

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Well, this was certainly an adventure! Our mission was to hike up a very narrow slot canyon (called “The Narrows”, of course) in the last week of November. And THROUGH, not beside, the water. This sounded crazy, especially with nighttime temperatures dipping below zero. But, thanks to science, it was still “mission possible”.

Even though the water level was not particularly high, there just isn’t enough room to walk on the side. Often, there is no room on either side. So, if you want to walk, you have to wade. And the water is often waist deep.

So why would you want to get soaked and remain that way for 4-5 hours? Well, the slot canyon is a unique geological feature, and what better way to appreciate it than by traveling through it? The walls can be up to 2000 feet high!

To deal with the cold and wet conditions and not get hypothermia, you need special equipment. Your upper and lower base layers are the same as you would wear for an ordinary (dry) walk. You then have to wear neoprene pants with a special “gasket” (rubber seal) at the ankle. This is to prevent water from going up your legs. You then wear two pairs of space-age foam booties, as well as special canyon walking boots that help walking over the slippery, rough, loose, and/or sharp stones on the canyon floor.

Your feet will get wet after a minute or two of walking. But, somehow, as long as you keep moving, your body heat manages to keep your feet warm. In fact, it’s better to walk in the water than to sit around outside of it. Add a walking stick, and you’re good to go! Just don’t fall in the water, unless you rented the full body suit!

I wish I could tell you about the specific places in the slot canyon. Alas, I was watching my steps carefully and only taking the occasional photo. Today’s pictures are all from that hike, in no particular order. The light was tricky, and 2000 foot walls are hard to photograph from the bottom, but hopefully the pictures give a good idea of what the trek was like.

Apparently, the neoprene is not necessary in the summer: walking the canyon is more of a way to cool off (assuming you have proper footwear), and hypothermia is not really an issue. Of course, the crowds are much more of an issue then!

Looking straight up from the bottom of the slot canyon

Bottom line: I didn’t even know this activity existed before this week. I was a bit afraid of the cold, but it all worked out. I’m even considering trying this myself sometime in Canada…what better way to truly experience a beautiful river?

This is our bus for the week. It is parked at our hotel in Springdale, Utah.

Stay tuned for more from Utah…things get even more unearthly!

Zion National Park – Day 1

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Talk about culture shock! After the sensory assault that was Las Vegas, a couple of hours on the road took us to a much different kind of sensation at Zion National Park in southwestern Utah (photo above is taken from the main lodge area). 

These wild turkeys charged us, but thankfully did not hurt us

This is our first destination in a tour of the “Canyonlands” of the American southwest. While the weather started off overcast and soon turned to rain, we still managed to hike a few miles up and get a feel for the immense scale of the canyons in Zion.  It started off easy (see the photo below), but soon became much more difficult.

The climb begins!

Once the rain began, the visibility got worse and worse…and so did the strength of my batteries! It didn’t make for my finest series of photographs, but it was awesome even with the ever-present mist.  You can get an idea of the scale by looking at the size of the trees in some of the “rock face photos”.

This tranquil pool ends in a sheer cliff…don’t get too close!

The sheer walls of rock reminded me a bit of the Italian Dolomites in places, or possibly the North Face of the Eiger. It was also a bit like ski touring, where you have to pay your dues climbing up the mountain…and you then get rewarded by skiing down the thrilling terrain.  As with skiing, the hiking was much easier going down than going up. However, with the intense red earth (all over my hiking boots at the moment), the experience at Zion was completely different. 

One of the immense stone faces near the “Upper Emerald Pools”

Tomorrow will be even more of an adventure.  The weather is supposed to be clearer, and we are hiking up a canyon for several hours. But not just a path alongside the river! No, the canyon is too narrow for that. Instead, we will be hiking up the river itself, wearing special neoprene hiking gear.  Considering how cold it is here now (around zero degrees in the evening), we are certainly going to putting this special equipment to the test!

The cliffs get crazier as you climb higher…no camera can capture it all, especially with the mist!

Stay tuned to see how this all works out. The camera batteries have been replaced and I look forward to capturing some more of the splendour!

Arrival in Las Vegas

(Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

This is my first time in Las Vegas. I’m just using it as a jumping off point for my express tour of the “canyonlands” in Utah and Arizona, but I’m here long enough to form some impressions.

Part of the “Fremont Street Experience”, in downtown Las Vegas

My flight arrived in the late evening, so the bus ride in from the airport was an extravaganza of activity and lights. I had to walk 4 blocks from my bus stop to my hotel (the Golden Nugget, in downtown Las Vegas). Ever try navigating Fremont Street at 11:00 p.m. on a Saturday night with a suitcase and a backpack? It’s complete sensory overload: there are concerts, buskers, rapid-fire light shows on the “roof” over Fremont Street, people ziplining overhead, people in various stages of exuberance and/or intoxication…I was glad to make it to the hotel unscathed!

The “Heart Attack Grill”, that apparently serves free meals to those over 350 pounds

There are definitely some interesting things here (particularly some of the entertainment), but I already find myself rebelling against certain aspects of the place. For breakfast, I went to a vegan restaurant away from the main street. The atmosphere was peaceful, the food was very good, and it was hard to believe that this was the same city that seemed so overwhelming the night before.

My breakfast at the VegeNation vegan restaurant. Those aren’t scrambled eggs, of course.

Not all of my food adventures were successful. I saw a “Donut Bar” that looked really good, so I decided to return there a bit later when I had more of an appetite. Alas, it closes each day when it sells out of the day’s stock…and they sold the last one just as I returned.  Things improved again when I ventured away from the main part of Fremont Street for lunch.  I found a family-run Thai place that, among other things, served excellent Thai iced tea.     

It’s licensed, so it really is a “Donut Bar”! Carson Street, Las Vegas.

Moving on down the list of Las Vegas cliches, it didn’t take long to find an express wedding chapel.  This one started in 1940 and would be rather “traditional” (as these things go); I’m sure the newer ones have all kinds of unusual approaches.

Wedding Chapel on Las Vegas Boulevard

And then, there’s the gambling. I was actually a little saddened by what I saw. The number of slot machines is incomprehensible. Each hotel must have thousands of them. But many of the people playing them seemed bored and unhappy. They looked passively resigned to their fate. At least the players at the card tables seemed to be engaged in what they were doing. 

A small part of a small casino in Las Vegas

I’m glad I had a chance to look around, but I don’t think this is a place that I’ll need to see again.  To paraphrase Macbeth: it is definitely “full of sound and fury”, but it is up to each individual to decide if it is really “signifying nothing”. As for me, I’m glad to be heading for Utah in the morning. I’m really looking forward to some active travel in the midst of some stunning natural wonders.

My next bucket list item

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I didn’t use quite as many vacation days as I was anticipating this summer, so I started looking into travel options for a late fall getaway of a week or so.  Although I usually travel independently, I felt like entrusting some of the logistics to someone else this time: for a short trip, this would help ensure that my limited time was used effectively.  As usual, my eventual destination was nowhere near what I had originally planned.

I began with looking at a return to Latin America, with Ecuador being at the top of the list.  However, I began to waver because Ecuador seemed kind of far away for just a one -week trip. As it turns out, I’m glad I didn’t move ahead with those plans: there is currently significant civil unrest in Ecuador, and my preferred tour operator has apparently cancelled a number of tours there. 

And then, inspiration hit. I was taking a look at some promotions, and found a number of tours that were 30% off the regular price. One of them caught my eye…it was in a part of the world that has been on my subconscious bucket list for ages but I somehow never got around to seeing. 

This tour ticked all the boxes: it was for a small group only (maximum 16 participants), it was an active tour with a significant amount of walking, it was off-season (and therefore wouldn’t be too busy), it would have very comfortable weather, and it wasn’t too far from home.  With it being 30% off, and finding some direct flights at an affordable price, I made a quick decision to go for  it.

So, in a few short weeks, I will be going on a tour of the “Canyonlands” of Utah and Arizona! This includes the Grand Canyon, but also places such as Bryce Canyon National Park, Antelope Canyon, and Zion National Park. My flights are to Las Vegas, so I will also get at least a brief glimpse of the glitz and glamour there…again, for the very first time.  And I also get to travel on a bit of the legendary Route 66!

I really enjoy doing long walks when I’m on holiday: it’s a great way to be “in the moment” and see things that you can’t when you’re on a bus all day.  These destinations will be especially spectacular on foot, and I understand that we will be taking a trail that descends into the Grand Canyon. 

I’m really excited about this trip.  I’m sure it will be intense but exhilirating…and will make a great prelude to my winter ski trip. That ski trip will involve a country I’ve been to before, but never for skiing.  Curious? Stay tuned to this blog!

(Today’s photos were all taken within one hour, on a walk around my sister-in-law’s place near Yarker, Ontario, Canada.)

Celebrities and the Jersey Shore

(West Long Branch, New Jersey, U.S.A.)

One of the interesting parts of the New Jersey conference was interacting with people whose names I knew…but whom I had never actually seen or met.

As this was an academic conference, many of the attendees and presenters were authors.  I brought along a few books for signing, as it appeared that time would be available to meet the authors.  In each case, the authors were unfailingly polite and it was abundantly clear that they were also big fans of the music.

The Jersey Shore

There was another attendee who might be a little more famous (by work, if not by name) to those outside of the Beatles’ world.  He has a very significant Beatles connection, but he has also reached the pinnacle of his profession through his work with other musicians.  However, he rarely attends events like this…and I wondered if he might not be too thrilled to meet “fans”. 

Science Hall at Monmouth University

While I did obtain his autograph and briefly speak to him, I was most struck by his keen interest in the conference.  Although he was a featured guest, he did not just zip in and out of the conference for his assigned slot.  He arrived early and stayed for several days (and these were long days)…perhaps even longer than I did!   And it was evident that he was just as polite with, and considerate of, other “fans” as he was when I met him.  

Woodrow Wilson Hall, Monmouth University, Long Branch, New Jersey

This made me ponder the whole idea of celebrity.  If I were famous and pursuing one of my interests, my patience with being approached by strangers might eventually get worn down.  Imagine  having to deal with that all of the time!  And so, given the grace with which this person was handling things, I have decided not to name him or post a picture.

Bey Hall, Monmouth University

Almost exactly four years ago, I came across a similar issue when I visited the Abbey Road recording studio in London, England.  The building (and the pedestrian crossing outside of it) are, of course, iconic in the Beatles world.  I readily accepted a stranger’s offer to take my picture while I walked across Abbey Road.  However, one of the most famous musicians of all time also lives quite close to that studio…only a few minutes’ walk away.

I had to take a look, as I was curious about the style in which this musician lived.  I thought about taking a picture and posting it on this blog.  In the end, however, I decided that posting a photograph would just contribute to the “siege” that this musician must often feel.

Bethlehem, Pennsylvania…on the way back home

As a result, rather than posting “celebrity” photos, I have decided to illustrate this post with some more travel-oriented photos of the conference trip.  The final stop was a  brief visit to the nearby Jersey Shore (see photo at the very top of this post), which I had heard about but never actually seen.  After taking some final pictures and ceremonially touching the chilly Atlantic Ocean, it was time to begin the long journey back home.

Return to Academia

(West Long Branch, New Jersey, U.S.A.)

After the great concert on the first night at Monmouth University’s music symposium (see my previous post – and also photo above), it was time to get a little serious.

There were roughly 50 “elective” seminars spread out over 10 time slots, so it was impossible to see everything.  I decided to challenge myself and attend something that sounded really obscure…a seminar on “irregular hypermeters”.  As I was never able to fit any music electives into my university timetable, I braced myself for the worst.  I have a good grounding in the basics of music theory, and have always been intrigued by odd time signatures, but haven’t really studied music seriously for about 35 years.  Even with the conference’s underlying Beatles theme, perhaps this was taking things too far?

The back of Woodrow Wilson Hall (Monmouth University)

My fears were groundless.  Yes, some of the language was challenging, especially when the professor also incorporated a philosophy called “aesthetic realism”.  And irregular hypermeters weren’t actually odd time signatures, as I had originally thought.  But then something very cool happened:  the professor was so enthusiastic about the material that the required intellectual gymnastics suddenly became attainable.

The “OceanFist Bank Center” at Monmouth University

The basic idea was that the musical phrases in Beatles music are often captivating because they do not comply with the “rules” for popular music.  For example, instead of the expected lengths of 4, 8 or 12 bars, the phrases would be 5 bars (“Eleanor Rigby”) or 7 bars (“Yesterday”).  This is what you call an “irregular hypermeter”.  Sure enough, if you count out the beats and bars, these songs (and many others) do not fit the expected pattern.  The predictability so often found in blues and country music, and by extension much popular music, just isn’t there.  Is this why the Beatles’ music still sounds fresh and inventive today?

Front entrance to Woodrow Wilson Hall

The professor was a gifted musician…in fact, it turns out that he has won awards as a composer.  But instead of leaving us with just an interesting theory, he actually demonstrated on the piano what “Yesterday” would sound like if it contained “standard” verse phrases of 8 bars rather than 7 bars.  It was corny, and almost painful to hear.

After showing how (via the music of Burt Bacharach) the unusual phrasing and chord changes in “Eleanor Rigby” also surprise and delight, the professor took some questions from the class.  At one point, he erupted into a vocal passage from an opera (in German!) to demonstrate his point.

Side entrance to Woodrow Wilson Hall

Before we knew it, we had run way past the scheduled end of the seminar.  In a sign that the message got through, I later enthused about this previously unknown subject to my friend…and, over the next several days, anybody else who would listen.  I also found myself counting out the lengths of melodic phrases in every piece of music I encountered (note: don’t try this when you are driving).  Sure enough, the most cliched-sounding songs rigidly follow the same old patterns.

Just in case you missed it – another view of Woodrow Wilson Hall (with previously unnoticed pink glow)

While this topic continues to fascinate me, I think the key take-aways are a lot simpler.  First of all, being passionate about what you are teaching can break down a lot of barriers.  Secondly, learning out of pure interest is far more effective than learning out of necessity.  And finally, you’re never too old to learn.  If you can find something you’re passionate about, those rusty old learning skills will come rushing back!

An awesome concert in New Jersey!

(West Long Branch, New Jersey, U.S.A.)

On very short notice, I decided to join a friend on a road trip to a four-day academic music conference at Monmouth University in New Jersey.  This was purely for fun and had nothing to do with my employment.  I was free to attend whichever seminars and events caught my interest.

My previous exposure to New Jersey consisted only of passing through Newark Airport on my way to and from New York City.  Most of what I saw was concrete.  This time, however, I found myself at an idyllic college that seemed far removed from urban America.

Stop for gas in Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains

The conference itself was scheduled to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the Beatles’ eponymous 1968 album (popularly known as the “White Album”).  While most of the seminars had some connection to that album, the topics ranged from the media in 1960s Germany to “irregular hypermeters” (more about that in a future post).

Yes. New Jersey’s Garden State Parkway passes through a place called Cheesequake!

In addition to the daytime seminars, there were “working” lunches with keynote speakers, dinners with live entertainment, evening presentations for all attendees, vast numbers of books for sale…and, on the first night, a concert by a band called “The Weeklings“.  They seemed to be fairly well known, so we decided to attend as the tickets were included with our conference fees.

I was so impressed with Cheesequake that I took another picture

I had no idea that this concert, by a band that was completely unknown to me,  would be one of the very best that I had ever attended.  The Weeklings are primarily a Beatles tribute band, meaning that they replicate the songs of the Beatles in concert.  I’ve seen plenty of these bands before, and many of them are quite good.  My brother-in-law even portrayed John Lennon in one of them. However, the Weeklings (see photo at the top of this post) don’t look anything like the Beatles, nor do they even try.

The interior of Monmouth University’s Woodrow Wilson Hall, where we ate our dinners and attended a number of presentations

The concert was a live recreation of (most of) the White Album.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with that double album, it is by far the most musically varied of any Beatles album.  The songs range from acoustic ballads to heavy metal, ska to music hall, and everything in between.  The songs are also full of musical tricks, including multiple time signature changes within the same song or even the same verse. Playing it live is an extreme test.  But the Weeklings were up to it…for this special event, they even had a 5-piece string section and a 6-piece horn section.

Descending the marble staircase into Woodrow Wilson Hall’s dining area

It was astonishing.  Even with Paul McCartney’s vast financial resources, the string and horn parts at his concerts are generally played by one guy with a fancy keyboard.  To hear these songs live, with the actual arrangements and instruments that appear on the record, was really something special.

The Weeklings on stage at Pollak Hall

But that wasn’t all – the Weeklings then proceeded to play a handful of their original compositions (with obvious Beatles influences)…and then play even more Beatles songs that are rarely performed live with full string and horn sections.  While their string-heavy and amped-up version of “I am the Walrus” was deeply impressive, it was “A Day in the Life” that really took things to the next level.

A Day in the Life” is, in my opinion, the Beatles’ finest song.  The recording, with its unprecedented and seemingly random 24-bar orchestral crescendos, represents one of the highest points of 20th century popular music.  To hear it live, with that instrumentation, was like nothing I had ever heard.

The musicians acknowledge the crowd at the end of the show

It has been said that writing about music is like dancing about architecture:  it is very difficult to do well.  But If I haven’t conveyed it clearly enough, please just take my word for it…this was amazing, and you should definitely see these guys if you ever get the chance.  They don’t always have the strings and horns with them in concert, but even as a 4-piece band with a keyboard player on the side, they are still incredible.  What a great way to start the conference!

The Science of Summer Airfares

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I thought that I would be announcing our summer destination in today’s post. However, I still have not booked the flights…and until those flights are booked, it would be premature to say anything. The big reveal of our “off-the-beaten-path” destination will have to wait!

Penguin at the New England Aquarium (Boston, Massachusetts)

Finding a good deal on intercontinental summer flights is an extremely challenging task.  It’s high season and the airlines aren’t crazy:  prices are significantly higher and any special deals are extremely short-lived.

Elizabeth Cary Agassiz House, at Radcliffe College (Cambridge, Massachusetts)

For a long time, the accepted wisdom was that the best deals could be had at the last minute.  However, as technology has improved, airlines have become much better at filling flights and extracting maximum revenue from passengers.  Simply put, any seats still empty at the last minute will probably be priced very high because there will always be someone desperate enough to buy them.

A happy penguin couple at the New England Aquarium

Alas, booking far ahead of time is not effective either:  prices are usually very high because anybody booking 6-12 months ahead of time is obviously committed to the destination and the time of year.   The trick is to find the “sweet spot”, when airlines identify relatively undersold dates and destinations…and briefly reduce prices enough so that those flights get closer to full and much higher prices can be charged for the remaining seats.

The Massachusetts State House in Boston – we went on a tour here

There are some OK deals out there now.  However, they are not for our preferred destination.  They also tend to be for flights with sleepy arrival/departure times, longer layovers, older cabins, and less comfortable seats.   This is our fallback position, as these deals tend to be available for longer periods of time.

Many creatures are motivated by food (New England Aquarium in Boston)

Sometime in the next few weeks, about 5 months prior to departure, there will probably be a good deal for a good itinerary with a good airline.  The window of opportunity will be very small and we will have to take advantage of it immediately.  While one could say it’s a lot of pressure, it’s also very exciting.  Some people like finding a good deal at flea markets…I like finding a good deal on travel.  Keeping our travel costs down enables us to travel as much as we do.

Underwater at the New England Aquarium (Boston, Massachusetts)

Of course, I don’t have any pictures of “the science of airfares”.  Instead, I’ve decided to include some pictures of our 2011 trip to Boston, Massachusetts:  something completely random, to reflect the fact that we still don’t know exactly where we will end up this summer.

You can’t have too many pictures of penguins!

Stay tuned, to see if we conquered the science of airfares!